Victoria and Albert Museum
Underwear: From corsets to bullet-bras and back
updated
00:30 Revealing the Victorian dress
01:44 Construction and key details
02:40 What is Paisley?
04:11 Queen Victoria’s wedding dress
05:07 Revealing the Edwardian dress
05:49 The ’s’-bend silhouette
07:47 Construction and lace details
07:50 Signs of alterations and damage
09:07 Revealing the 1930s dress
09:32 Who was Charles James?
10:40 Historical references
11:40 Modern details
12:33 Materials: silk and plastic
13:19 Changing fashions over 100 years
Find out more in our fashion collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
This film explores two important portraits separated by three centuries: one of 18th-century Jamaican scholar and writer, Francis Williams, the other a self portrait by Vanley Burke, the godfather of Black British photography, made in the 21st century.
At present it's a mystery as to who made Williams' portrait, why it was created, and for whom, leading us to question its purpose, meaning, and how truthful it really is. Although Vanley Burke has had full control over his portrait, both gentlemen appear to be caught 'between two worlds'.
Follow Curator Dr Christine Checinska as we place these powerful portraits in conversation, and examine new scientific research. Hear Vanley Burke's response to the Francis Williams painting, and discuss the influences behind his own work – as well as reflections on the ongoing quest for personhood and the impact of colonial legacies.
Find out more about Francis Williams: vam.ac.uk/articles/francis-williams-a-portrait-of-a-writer
The two portraits are on display in 'Between Two Worlds' at V&A South Kensington until 31 December 2023: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/between-two-worlds-vanley-burke-and-francis-williams
Karsavina's intoxicating performance as Salome was bold and expressive and the unconventional, striking costume (described in a review of the production by the Daily Telegraph as 'weird') provided inspiration for fashion designers and cartoonists.
Join Theatre & performance Curator, Jane Pritchard, as she explores the costume in detail and discusses the lasting impact of the Ballets Russes, Tamara Karsavina and the role of Salome.
Discover more powerful divas from the worlds of opera, dance, music hall, pop and theatre in our exhibition, DIVA: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/diva
Find out more about the Ballets Russes: vam.ac.uk/collections/diaghilev-and-the-ballet-russes
Explore more costumes from the V&A's collections: vam.ac.uk/collections/costume
Made in Germany in 1673 (as written on the chimney), this is the oldest dolls' house in the V&A's collection. At this time, dolls' houses were made to reflect the lives of the wealthy people who owned them – in this case an apothecary (chemist).
Join Dana as she prepares and manoeuvres the extremely pillowy bed, and Robert as he assesses the condition of the intricate metal decorations, including plates, dishes and exquisitely painted pewter tankards. Watch as Will as oversees the operation, placing the tiny furniture into the house just as as it would have originally been.
Timestamps:
00:00 Ringing the bell
00:20 Getting ready for display
00:35 Making the bed
02:44 Hanging a unicorn's head above the door
03:44 Unpacking and checking condition of miniature metal kitchenware
07:27 Arranging the kitchen
11:36 Dolls' Houses at Young V&A
11:50 Context and detail of the fully dressed dolls' house
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
See the Nuremberg Dolls’ House at Young V&A from 1 July 2023: vam.ac.uk/young
Find out more about 1960s fashion: vam.ac.uk/collections/1960s-fashion
See more shoes in our collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/shoes
Join Curatorial Operations Coordinator Dan Cox as he shows us a plate camera made in 1927, which was owned by photographer and distinguished chemist, Friedrich Paneth. Watch and listen as Dan carefully handles the Zeiss Ikon Maximar camera to demonstrate how it works, clicking the shutter at different speeds, folding and unfolding the bellows and even letting us take a peek through the focussing screen – just as Paneth would have done.
Paneth made incredible early colour photographs called autochromes which were produced on glass plates and had luminous, vibrant colours. Follow Dan as he shows some examples of Paneth's photography, whilst giving us an insight into how the specialist process of making an autochrome works.
00.00 Unfolding the Zeiss Ikon Maximar plate camera
00:53 Who is Paneth the chemist / photographer?
01.54 How to take an autochrome – process
02:24 Folding away the camera bellows
2.36 Paneth photographing his students during a lecture
03:15 Examining and looking through the focusing screen
4.30 How Paneth achieved his vibrant aesthetic – "Always intensify"
5.30 How to set the shutter speed and pressing the cable release
7.07 Rise and fall for architectural photography
7.52 Shifting left and right and pressing the shutter
See more cameras and photography in our Photography Centre: vam.ac.uk/photography
Read more about autochromes in the book Colour Mania by Catlin Langford: vam.ac.uk/shop/books/photography-books/colour-mania%3A-photographing-the-world-in-autochrome-164361.html
See more objects from our Photography collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/photographs
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
Armour was a form of clothing. The exaggerations and distortions it imposed on natural body-shape flexed and contracted with contemporary fashions. Decorated with bands of etching, blued (coloured blue by oxidation) and gilt, complemented with richly coloured silks and velvets, with dyed ostrich feathers sprouting from the helmet, on a horse armed to match, these extraordinary armours turned their discerning 16th-century owners into stylish works of art.
Modern ideas about historic armour often suggest knights struggled to move as they clanked around. Nothing could be further from the truth. Astonishing artistry, care and technical ingenuity went into producing good quality armour. Beyond a castle or perhaps a suite of tapestries, there were few greater expenses for the Renaissance nobleman than his armour. It was made-to-measure, light, flexible and mobile.
Explore more arms and armour in the V&A's collections: collections.vam.ac.uk/search/?q=armour&page=1&page_size=15&id_category=THES48992
The first African designer to receive the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize and winner of the International Fashion Showcase 2019, Thebe Magugu combines traditional African silhouettes with western styles and graphics. To create the looks in his collection titled 'Discard Theory', Magugu visited Dunusa – a well-known site in Johannesburg for secondhand clothes discarded by Europe and America.
Addressing the impact of secondhand clothes on the African continent's identity politics, he puts his own spin on what he describes as the 'trickle-down' hierarchical view of the fashion industry. Taking materials and inspiration from the piles of clothing in Dunusa, Magugu has reworked discarded items into experimental pieces, effectively pushing them back into a luxury space.
Watch as Magugu's runway looks pair silhouettes that don't relate – elegant pleated skirts with bomber jackets, abstract print motifs with regal lines – creating tension to keep the eyes engaged.
Discover more: vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motion-thebe-magugu
More about Fashion in Motion: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion-in-motion
Follow Elizabeth James, Senior Librarian at the National Art Library, as she turns the pages to reveal evidence of how the book was originally created, and examines signs of use by an early owner. We then join Harriet Reed, Curator of Contemporary Performance as she explores the book's huge influence on film, music and culture today.
You can see a copy of Shakespeare's First Folio on display in 'Re:Imagining Musicals' from August 2023: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/reimagining-musicals
More in our Books collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/books
You can see – and touch – the panel made by Charlotte in the exhibition Donatello: Sculpting the Renaissance.
00:53 Sketching the object
01:42 Wedging the clay
02:27 Rolling the clay and scaling up the panel
03:14 Modelling with tools
04:24 Building up the figures
05:05 Why do we make copies?
05:44 Adding detail
06:41 The firing process
Find out more about the exhibition and book tickets: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/donatello-sculpting-the-renaissance
More 'How was it Made?' films: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5js7ANCTaZ26aocPKe74M8XJ
In this film, Park reveals the materials and techniques used to create the hanbok suit's unique design, her sources of inspiration, and her pride in working with traditional Korean fashion.
This film was produced to accompany the V&A exhibition Hallyu! The Korean Wave, on until 25 June 2023
Find out more at: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/hallyu-the-korean-wave
Find out more about hanbok
vam.ac.uk/articles/hanbok-traditional-korean-dress
00:00 In the studio
01:10 Elliot's still life series
01:45 Design inspiration from the V&A collection
03:03 Hot workshop: gathering molten glass with a blowpipe
03:30 Building up layers of clear and coloured glass
03:56 Spiralling the coloured glass
04:15 Shaping the glass with different tools
04:50 'Swedish' or bubble overlay technique
05:57 Creating the fish shape
06:41 Adding surface texture, fins and a metallic finish
08:14 Cold workshop: cutting and polishing
09:17 The finished piece
Find out more about our glass collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/glass
Peek into the past with Senior Curator Angus Patterson and Conservator Philip Kevin, as they carefully unlock a historic 17th-century strongbox. Originally used to keep money or documents safe, this strongbox has three secure padlocks with unique keys. Each key would have been held by a different member of the community (possibly the schoolmaster, the vicar, and the verger), meaning that the box could only be opened – and the precious contents accessed – in the presence of witnesses.
Watch as Angus transports us to the 17th century, introducing us to parish church security and what might have been kept inside the box, whilst Philip gently wiggles the keys to pop the locks and examines the 500-year-old woodworm damage – luckily without any beetle poo.
00.00 Keys rattle and 17th-century lock clicks shut
00.18 Meet curator Angus and conservator Philip
01.20 Wormholes from woodworm – flight holes and tunnelling
02.02 Examining the strongbox in detail
03.28 Opening padlock number one – corkscrew key (reveals coin slot)
05.33 Opening padlock number two – warded key
06.04 Opening padlock number three – pipe key
07.24 Reveal of inside of strongbox
09.11 Woodworm damage – conservation work to plug a hole
09.52 More about woodworm – signs of infestation, pyramidal piles of frass, how to tell that woodworm are no longer active
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
Find out more in our metalwork collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/metalwork
See the strongbox at Young V&A from Summer 2023: vam.ac.uk/young
From an ancient Roman amethyst statuette to a charming mythical creature carved from nephrite jade, a bloodstone scorpion ring to a crystal amulet container made to hold crayfish eyes – join Assistant Curator Sophie Morris as she takes us through some of her favourite treasures, revealing the hidden meaning, magical attributes and enduring power of gemstones.
00:00 What are gemstones?
00:24 Rock crystal crayfish eye amulet
02:00 Precious rock crystal reliquary cross
03:27 Historic lapidary book
04:48 Sapphire, hessonite garnet and peridot pendant
07:19 Turquoise-set amulet case
08:48 Nephrite jade mythical creature (qilin)
10:30 Scorpion and serpent-figure bloodstone intaglios
12:26 Ancient amethyst empress statuette
See more gemstones in our jewellery collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/jewellery
Watch the shapes appear as Simon uses different chisels and tools to cut and refine the marble, explaining how carving is all about trapping shadows and watching light play across the surface.
You can see – and touch – the panel made by Simon in our exhibition Donatello: Sculpting the Renaissance.
00:00 The properties of marble
00:26 What is the Prato Pulpit?
01:09 Drawing from photographs
01:56 Traditional vs contemporary chisels
03:16 The difficulties of marble carving
04:22 The claw tool
04:42 Trapping shadows and playing with light
05:29 Filing and pumicing
06:24 The spirit and joy of Donatello’s carving
Find out more about the exhibition and book tickets: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/donatello-sculpting-the-renaissance
More 'How was it Made?' films: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5js7ANCTaZ26aocPKe74M8XJ
00:00 Sharpening the engraving tool
00:24 Preparing the metal plate
00:52 Engraving with the rose engine turning lathe
02:12 Preparing the engraved plate for enamelling
02:20 Grinding coloured glass to make enamel
03:18 Applying the enamel
03:35 Firing, smoothing and polishing
04:16 The finished piece
Find out more about our enamels collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/enamels
Join Senior Curator Divia Patel and Senior Conservator Laura Ledwina as they introduce us to a very large and eye-catching object – a hand-painted, billboard-sized poster for the famous Bollywood film, 'Devdas' (2002). Large film hoardings have historically been very important in Indian cinema, being seen along major roadsides and above the cinema itself. However hand-painted hoardings are used much less frequently today, making objects like this rare and quite special.
At over two metres high and five-and-a-half metres long, the enormous poster has been taken out of storage and needs to be unrolled and stretched. This will ensure that it is smooth and free from wrinkles before going on display at Young V&A.
Follow Laura in the Painting Conservation Studio as she adds strip lining to the canvas edges of the poster, so that it is secure and strong enough to be firmly pulled on a stretcher. In this meticulous process she carefully removes individual threads from new linen strips to create a fringe, cuts them to size, painstakingly chamfers the edges with a razor blade, and applies strong adhesive to hold this in place.
Process:
00:00 Unfurling the poster
00:15 The culture of Bollywood movie hoardings
01:44 Why do we need to stretch the canvas?
03:32 Demonstrating the strip lining technique
04:01 Pulling strings – fast flying threads
04:38 Cutting strips to size – scissor snips, no talking
05:11 Fringing edges of strip lining
06:00 Chamfering edges with a razor blade
07:41 Ironing hot adhesive onto flat linen strips
11:56 Hot spatula adhering strips onto the original canvas
13:19 Gluing gossamer security tape in place
14:37 Testing the strips – pulling and tugging
15:42 'Devdas' movie poster – revealing the whole image
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
Find out more about the poster: collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72592/devdas-2002-film-hoarding-balkrishna-arts
Young V&A: vam.ac.uk/young
Join Curator Zorian Clayton as he shows us a selection of delightful cards from our Prints collection. As cards were a new phenomena in the 19th century, people went wild for the opportunity to show a special someone that they were fond of them. Ranging from one penny to three guineas (£250 in today's money), take a look at intricate mechanical cards, delicate paper cages, ceramic hearts and ruder 'vinegar valentines' sent between friends – and find out whether the language of love really has changed very much since the Victorian era.
00:00 The origins of Valentine's Day
02.00 Oldest cards
04:13 Novelty designs
06:24 Mechanical cards
08:50 Vinegar Valentines
10:57 The language of flowers (floriography)
13:40 Contemporary ceramic and mosaic Valentines
See objects for yourself in our Prints and Drawings Study Room: vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-and-drawings-study-room
Find out more in our Print collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/print
Here Lead Curator Peta Motture takes us through the intricacies of this incredible piece, from the tiny city set in the distance, to charming cherubs disappearing behind the clouds, and other fascinating details which can be easy to miss. Peta also explains how the carving comes to life in changing light conditions, and discusses the mysteries which still surround its creation.
00:00 Donatello's 'squashed relief' technique
00:51 Christ ascending to heaven and handing the keys to St Peter
01:12 The Virgin Mary
01:23 Tiny city of Jerusalem
01:48 What is raking light?
02:17 Angels, cherubs and 'sculpting air'
02:57 Creating a sense of depth, like drawing on marble
03:41 The Virgin's hands
04:17 What was the intention of the piece?
Find out more about the Donatello: Sculpting the Renaissance exhibition and book tickets: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/donatello-sculpting-the-renaissance
Join Costume Designer Catherine Zuber and Curator Harriet Reed as they take us behind the scenes, introducing the real Moulin Rouge and showgirls of the time, showing the original design sketches for Satine's dazzling diamond studded costume, and demonstrating how one vital mechanism is crucial for the piece's quick change on stage.
00:00 Catherine Zuber's design process
0:29 What is Moulin Rouge! The Musical?
00:49 Was the Moulin Rouge real?
01:05 Adapting Baz Luhrmann's film
01:23 Creating a costume for Satine – design sketches
02:17 Researching the history of showgirls
02:49 How does the costume work?
03:53 Designing costumes for theatre
04:12 Mounting and installing the costume in the Re:Imagining Musicals display
The costume is now in the V&A's collection of Theatre and Performance and can be seen as part of the Re:Imagining Musicals display until November 2023.
More on costume design: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL26BA2ABB49B03EC7
Discover more about the Re:Imagining Musicals display: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/reimagining-musicals
More Moulin Rouge! The Musical: moulinrougemusical.co.uk
Take a look at our costume collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/costume
Drawing on her background in contemporary and aerial dance, she suspends, fragments, and augments the body, combining this with floral costume inspired by objects from the East Asian collections.
Digital Wonderlands Residency ran from 29 September 2021 – 1 July 2022.
See our Digital Art and Design collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/digital-art-design
Find out more about our artists in residence: vam.ac.uk/info/residencies
Introducing his tools, materials and environment, the potter and author gives us a unique insight into his creative process and practice. Hear the sounds of the workshop and see how words and clay intermingle in his pieces.
00:00 Inside the studio
00:38 Throwing on the wheel
01:33 Tools
01:56 Firing in the kiln room
04:23 Glazes
05:45 Words and materials
07:59 Books and writing
08:52 Creative process
More about Edmund de Waal and porcelain: vam.ac.uk/articles/on-the-white-road-edmund-de-waal
See our Ceramics collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/ceramics
Edmund de Waal's 'On the White Road' limited edition plates at the V&A shop: vam.ac.uk/shop/homeware/kitchen-dining/on-the-white-road-by-edmund-de-waal-%E2%80%93-limited-edition-163921.html
At first glance we appear to have an 18th-century gentleman's waistcoat and banyan – a popular European style of gown, not dissimilar to a dressing gown – which has been made in Italy. However, a close inspection reveals that the fabric is a luxurious Chinese silk embroidered with peacock feather threads, that was once destined to become an impressive dragon robe for the Chinese Imperial Court.
Join Susan and Sau Fong as they compare the ensemble with historic dragon robes in our collection to understand how the Italian tailor skilfully adapted this piece into a European-style garment, and ponder who it might have belonged to.
More Fashion Unpicked films: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jvJsAP3AOHQz4FcgUki-nLx
Find out more in our China and Europe Collections:
vam.ac.uk/collections/china
vam.ac.uk/collections/europe
Watch and listen as curator Fuchsia Hart unboxes a selection of late 17th and early 18th century ceramic bath rasps from Iran.
Follow Fuchsia as she shows us how these luxury self-care objects would have been used in the bathhouse – much like a foot file – to massage and remove dead skin. When handled, the objects create a gentle tinkling noise. Fuschia investigates what might be making the sound, before taking a look at X-rays which reveal what is inside.
0.00 What are bath rasps?
0.59 Unboxing / setting the scene at the Iranian bathhouse
1.47 Egg-shaped bath rasp with textured sprigs – handling, hearing it rattle
3.17 Duck bath rasp with stippled base – handling, hearing it rattle
3.56 Why do bath rasps rattle?
4.19 Shoe-shaped bath rasp with smooth bottom – handling, no rattle
5.41 Teardrop-shaped bath rasp with cross-hatched base – handling, no rattle
6.30 Cypress bath rasp – tracing wavy lines on the base, hearing it rattle
8.31 X-ray reveal of what is inside
9.54 Glazed bath rasps as elite objects / self-care
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
Discover more in our Islamic Middle East collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/islamic-middle-east
From lampworking and glassblowing, to glitter application and lacquering, find out about the care taken to make these beautiful pieces that bring us joy year after year.
00:00 Introduction to Christmas baubles and handling
01:27 Pinecone-shaped bauble
02:59 Glittery bauble
05:20 Tree topper
07:41 Ice lacquered bauble
08:50 Bell-shaped bauble
Make your own V&A-inspired Christmas tree decoration: vam.ac.uk/articles/make-your-own-va-inspired-christmas-tree-decoration
Find out about Victorian Christmas traditions: vam.ac.uk/articles/victorian-christmas-traditions
Discover more in our glass collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/glass
Join us as curators Alice Power and Sarah Beattie take a look at cards from our Prints collection to reveal weird and wonderful tastes from the Victorian era. In a period of great change and innovation, Victorian card companies didn't hold back on trying new ideas, resulting in everything from the now familiar image of Father Christmas and robins, to talking vegetables, fighting kittens – and even clowns!
00:00 The origin of the Christmas card
03:20 Traditional designs
04:47 Food
06:59 Children and animals
08:41 Humour
10:41 Novelty/delicate cards
See objects yourself in our Prints and Drawings Study Room: vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-and-drawings-study-room
Find out more about the first Christmas card and Victorian Christmas traditions:
vam.ac.uk/articles/the-first-christmas-card
vam.ac.uk/articles/victorian-christmas-traditions
Discover more in our Print collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/print
In this film, Young Jin Kim introduces the Cheollik Dress, one of her signature ready-to-wear items that is based on a traditional horse riding outfit for men, and her wildly extravagant Shamanism Collection from 2020.
This film was produced to accompany the V&A exhibition Hallyu! The Korean Wave, on until 25 June 2023: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/hallyu-the-korean-wave
Find out more about hanbok:
vam.ac.uk/articles/hanbok-traditional-korean-dress
Lalage Bown spent her career working to establish and expand adult education programs in Ghana, Uganda, Zambia and Nigeria, with a particular focus on the empowerment of women through literacy. She was also instrumental in promoting the incorporation of work by African authors into university curricula, which led to the publication of her book Two Centuries of African English in 1973. A woman of sartorial flair, whilst living in Africa between 1949 and 1981 she amassed a large wardrobe. Typically purchasing clothes from popular local tailors and dressmakers, she'd take recommendations from her students and wear the fashionable styles of the moment.
Made by a local tailor in Dakar, Senegal, Lalage Bown's elegant organza grand boubou features machine-embroidered silver flowers, and has a head-tie in the same fabric. Accompanied by a dark green pagne (skirt) along with a sleeveless peplum top, this piece was designed to make a statement. Her made-to-measure red velvet dress was created by Nigerian fashion designer, Shade Thomas Fahm, to receive her OBE at Buckingham Palace. Complete with a matching hat styled to look like a gèlè (head wrap), Shade recalled the cold English weather and swapped her usual soft silks, for a rich, red velvet.
Find out more about Professor Lalage Bown: vam.ac.uk/articles/a-life-through-clothes-professor-lalage-bown-obe
Meet iconic fashion designer Shade Thomas Fahm: vam.ac.uk/articles/nigerias-first-fashion-designer-shade-thomas-fahm
See more Fashion Unpicked films: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jvJsAP3AOHQz4FcgUki-nLx
See her outfits in the Africa Fashion exhibition until 16 April 2023: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion
Join Digital Content Producer Hannah Kingwell as she visits the National Art Library at the V&A – a calm and tranquil yet deeply sensory space, which is open to all.
Follow Hannah as she looks through iconic feminist magazines from the 1970s and 80s in the Library. Listen as she turns the pages of the first independently published edition of Ms. Magazine – co-founded in 1971 by activists Gloria Steinem and Dorothy Pitman Hughes – along with copies of Spare Rib Magazine, which challenged stereotypes of women and supported collective action. These magazines played an important role in the late 20th-century women's liberation movement across Britain and America.
Come along and experience the National Art Library for yourself: vam.ac.uk/info/national-art-library
Welcome to the Library:
00:00 Opening a book stand
00:24 Unlocking the library door, selecting a desk token, walking in
00:56 Preparing a desk and setting up book stand
01:34 Typing, talking to librarian
01:58 Sliding magazines out of paper folder, placing magazines on book stand
02:25 Page turning
02:38 Ms. Magazine, 1972, page turning
02:57 Spare Rib Magazine, 1982
03:15 Page turning of Ms. Magazine
04:49 Rain sounds
04:58 How to order books and magazines at the National Art Library (whispering)
05:24 Typing, clicking
04:49 Whispering
Find out more about Spare Rib Magazine: bl.uk/spare-rib
More about magazines in the V&A's collection: vam.ac.uk/articles/annals-to-zeitschrift-an-a-z-of-magazines-and-journals#slideshow=683058707&slide=0
Search the Library Catalogue: vam.ac.uk/info/national-art-library#search-the-library-catalogue
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
00:00 What is ‘My Fair Lady’?
00:56 Looking at the dress in detail
02:00 Mounting concerns and solutions
03:26 Examining the dress and deciding conservation process
04:58 Dyeing silk crepeline
06:51 Cecil Beaton costume designs
08:02 Catherine Zuber, costume designer of 2018 adaptation
08:51 Supportive straps
09:42 Final mounted dress
The costume can be seen as part of the Re:Imagining Musicals display until November 2023.
Discover more about the Re:Imagining Musicals display: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/reimagining-musicals
More about My Fair Lady: myfairladymusical.co.uk
Take a look at our costume collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/costume
Beginning in Jingdezhen, China – the place where Marco Polo first encountered porcelain in the 13th century – we travel along the Silk Road to Europe, where the material is continuously reinvented. The Meissen factory cracks the mystery of how to make porcelain in 18th century Germany, Josiah Wedgwood in Stoke-on-Trent revolutionises the world of ceramics in England, and determined Quaker chemist William Cookworthy dedicates 20 years to creating porcelain in his Plymouth home laboratory.
Edmund de Waal's 'On the White Road' limited edition bone china plates are available to purchase from the V&A shop: vam.ac.uk/shop/homeware/kitchen-dining/on-the-white-road-by-edmund-de-waal-%E2%80%93-limited-edition-163921.html
Find out more about the V&A's ceramics collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/ceramics
Published in 1897 at the height of Gothic literature, Stoker's shocking portrayal of the suave and seductive, yet deadly Count Dracula, soon came to embody popular representations of the vampire in art, literature and film. Join us as curators Lydia Caston and Ruth Hibbard unbox objects from our Prints, Posters, Photography and Drawings collections to reveal Dracula's haunting presence and lasting influence as a symbol of death, decay, degeneration and contagion.
00:00 What is a vampire?
00:30 Who is Dracula?
01:34 Vlad the Impaler
02:48 Whitby Abbey photograph
04:40 Bat drawing and specimen
07:03 Pure Evil and Satan Sowing Terror prints
09:28 Vampires in film: Hammer Horror poster
11:54 Blood, sex and contagion: Aids awareness poster
See objects yourself in our Prints and Drawings Study Room: vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-and-drawings-study-room
Discover more in our Photography, Print and Poster collections:
vam.ac.uk/collections/photographs
vam.ac.uk/collections/print
vam.ac.uk/collections/posters
First presented by Cambridge University students at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2017, SIX the Musical has since gone on to huge professional success in London's West End, on Broadway and internationally. It has also been celebrated for its relative historical accuracy, with songs such as 'No Way' sampling components from the real-life Queen Catherine of Aragon's 'Blackfriars speech', in which she pleaded for clemency from King Henry VIII.
00:00 What is SIX the Musical?
01:10 How to design for the stage
01:37 Creating a costume for Catherine of Aragon
02:14 Inspiration from Tudor objects
05:38 The design process and features of the costume
10:10 Installing the costume in the Re:Imagining Musicals display
The costume is now in the V&A’s collection of Theatre and Performance and can be seen as part of the Re:Imagining Musicals display until November 2023.
Discover more about the Re:Imagining Musicals display: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/reimagining-musicals
More about SIX the Musical: sixthemusical.com
Take a look at our costume collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/costume
***
Process:
00:00 Katherine Coleman
0:29 Sketching the design
1:15 Inspiration from the V&A’s glass gallery
2:04 Refining the Gingko leaf design and sourcing glass blanks
3:05 Drawing the design onto the glass blank and fixing using a diamond-tipped drill
4:02 Cutting away the background using sintered diamond wheels
4:40 Mixing a grit and oil paste, setting up the copper wheel
5:44 Engraving using the wheel
6:12 Pre-polishing the clear glass background using fine white corundum wheel and water drip
6:44 Polishing, marking out the detail, and cutting using small diamond-coated bur mounted in a spindle
7:06 Removing the permanent ink using methylated spirits with a brush
7:16 The finished piece
Find out more about our glass collections: vam.ac.uk/collections/glass
Born in Cameroon in 1969 to champion boxer Jean-Baptiste Ayissi Ntsama and Julienne Honorine Eyenga Ayissi – the first Miss Cameroon, Imane Ayissi founded his eponymous label in Paris in 2004. He is known for his glamorous collections which mix beautiful textiles from the continent with classic French couture techniques and silhouettes, and his designs have been worn by names such as Zendaya and Angela Bassett.
See the ensemble in the Africa Fashion exhibition until 16 April 2023: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion
More about Imane Ayissi: vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-unpicked-imane-ayissi
See more Fashion Unpicked films: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jvJsAP3AOHQz4FcgUki-nLx
Join librarians Vicky Worsfold and Caroline Penn as they guide you around the National Art Library at the V&A – a calm and tranquil yet deeply sensory space, which is open to all.
Follow Vicky as she shows you how to handle precious books using a book sofa and weights (also called book snakes), and join Caroline as she cares for fragile objects with crinkly spines. Listen as they turn the pages of a 19th-century treasure from the library – a very large book called an elephant folio. Titled ‘The Birds of America’ by John James Audubon, it contains exquisite illustrations of birds, and is an example of a book that you could order.
Come along and experience the National Art Library for yourself: vam.ac.uk/info/national-art-library
Welcome to the Library:
00:00 Pulling / pushing books on shelves
00:27 Typing
00:36 Talking to the Librarian – how to access books
01:13 Using a book sofa and book snakes
04:08 Elephant folio
04:55 Page turning
09:35 (Whispering) tying a fragile book with linen tape
11:31 (No talking) tying a fragile book with linen tape
Search the Library Catalogue: vam.ac.uk/info/national-art-library#search-the-library-catalogue
More ASMR at the museum: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5jseo_RGEGeEbPy09z0nlmZE
This film reveals the complex process in designing the Cartoons and their translation into tapestries.
Find out more about the Raphael Cartoons: vam.ac.uk/collections/raphael-cartoons
Serving as underwear in the 1700s, shirts were usually worn out and then recycled to make paper, but this one has survived for centuries. It is made of the finest quality Dutch linen and stamped with the initials 'HW' – perhaps Henry Watkins, the King's Gentleman of the Bedchamber. Watch as we uncover the shirt's secrets and prepare it for display in the British Galleries.
Find out more menswear in the 'Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear' exhibition: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioning-masculinities-the-art-of-menswear
Discover more in our Fashion Collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Born in Timbuktu in Mali just before the country's independence from France, Alphadi uses his fashion as a vehicle for unity and prosperity. His designs celebrate the beauty of the African continent, as well as its rich histories and cultures. Apprenticed to master couturier Mister Ouseman Chirfi between the ages of seven and twelve, he learnt fashion design at an early age and later studied at the Atelier Chardon Savard, Paris.
With global ambition, he has opened boutiques all over the world, including in Casablanca, New York, Accra, and locations in Martinique and Spain. In 1998 he founded the Festival International de la Mode Africaine (International Festival of African Fashion) or FIMA, supported by UNESCO. The first event, hosted in the Tiguidit desert in Niger, included designers such as Chris Seydou, Pathé'O, Oumou Sy, Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzō. Over 5000 people from more than 52 countries flew to the desert to witness Alphadi's fashion and culture extravaganza.
Discover more about Alphadi:vam.ac.uk/articles/magician-of-the-desert-alphadi
Find out more about the Africa Fashion exhibition: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion
Hailed by Vogue as 'England's Most Eccentric Dresser', artist and activist Daniel Lismore describes himself as a 'living sculpture'. Using his body as a canvas, he creates monumental three-dimensional wearable artworks which combine haute couture, charity shop finds, vintage fabrics, found objects and religious paraphernalia. Sustainability sits at the heart of Lismore's design philosophy as he creatively re-uses and upcycles materials.
Naturally curious about how things are made, Lismore deconstructs garments to learn more about their structure. Watch as he showcases extravagant life-size ensembles from his exhibition 'Be Yourself, Everyone Else is Already Taken', alongside his 2022 'Jubilee' look. Here he tells us about his unique approach to creating – taking inspiration from experiences in his father's auction house as a child, lucid dreaming and burying things to dig them up years later.
Having styled the likes of Nicki Minaj, Mariah Carey, Naomi Campbell, and Boy George whilst he was Creative Director of luxury label Sorapol, Lismore has also designed for the English National Opera, exhibited at the Venice Biennale as well as Miami Art Basal and the Reykjavik Arts Festival.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motion-daniel-lismore
More Fashion in Motion: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion-in-motion
Born at a time when oil was discovered in the Rivers State in Nigeria (to devastating effect for the Niger Delta), her work references the environmental and human impact of fossil fuel extraction – an economic colonialism perpetuated by multinational oil companies and exacerbated by poor governance. Inspired by William Blake's abolitionist print of the same title, her piece ‘Europe Supported by Africa and America’ addresses the legacies of slavery, issues of power and gender, and the climate crisis. Standing on a fertile mound of grass and flowers against a mountainous backdrop, the wreath held by the figures ends in petroleum nozzles, emphasising our shared responsibility to care for the environment.
Cloth also plays a major role in Douglas Camp's work, expressing identity and cultural heritage. The figures' outfits denote the material style of each continent: Europe wears a Mondrian-like pattern; Africa a West African Kente cloth; but by dressing America in Paisley – a textile whose patterns are of Persian and Indian origin, but whose name derives from the Scottish town where that fabric was mainly produced – she reminds us that cloth carries within itself interwoven narratives of trade, often complicated by geopolitics.
See 'Europe Supported by Africa and America' in Gallery 21, The Dorothy and Michael Hintze Galleries, from 22 June 2022 – 14 May 2023.
Find out more about the sculpture: vam.ac.uk/articles/europe-supported-by-africa-and-america-by-sokari-douglas-camp
This display coincides with the V&A exhibition Africa Fashion, on until 16 April 2023.
This film was produced to accompany the V&A exhibition, Beatrix Potter: Drawn to Nature, until 8 January 2023.
Find out more at: vam.ac.uk/beatrix-potter
Find out more about Katie Scott:
katie-scott.com
instagram.com/katiekatiescott
With thanks to The Armitt: Museum, Gallery and Library
armitt.com
With its array of diverse voices, concerns and aesthetics, the African fashion scene is being continually accelerated by a constantly changing digital world.
Meet Nisha Kanabar – founder and CEO of fashion platform 'Industrie Africa'. Connecting the continent's most exceptional designer talent with consumers globally, 'Industrie Africa' serves as a creative hub within a buzzing new fashion culture. Based in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, Kanabar studied at Parsons School of Design in New York before working in fashion publishing at American Vogue and Vogue India. Interested in the power and role of media, she launched the platform in 2018 to advance the narrative of contemporary African fashion – showcasing nuanced diversity and transforming societal and cultural perceptions.
Find out more about Nisha Kanabar and Industrie Africa: vam.ac.uk/articles/nisha-kanabar-industrie-africa
Discover more about the Africa Fashion exhibition: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion
Industrie Africa website: industrieafrica.com
Watch as the yellow varnish on the surface of the portrait is gently removed to reveal how the colours of the oil painting match the finely woven silk of the waistcoat.
Find out more about our paintings: vam.ac.uk/collections/paintings
Follow more conservation stories: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe2ihXndm5js3qWDF7kSHLJjBbZ5XG9g0
This film shows the creation of an enamelled brooch – from the initial sketch to the final piece. Inspired by 18th-century silk designs, the brooch was made by Jane Short MBE, especially for the V&A’s collection.
The brooch features two different enamelling techniques: champlevé – where enamel is laid into spaces which have been carved out of the metal base, and basse-taille – where transparent enamels are used over an engraved pattern, allowing the pattern to be seen through the glass.
Process for enamelling a brooch:
What is enamel?: 00:00
Design sketch: 00:23
Cutting, shaping and soldering silver sheet metal: 00:27
Transferring the design onto the metal: 00:53
Champlevé: 01:20
Basse-taille: 01:39
Making enamel: 02:09
Applying enamel: 02:38
Firing in a kiln and building up enamel: 02:54
Smoothing the enamel with carborundum stone: 03:44
Polishing with pumice: 03:58
Finished brooch: 04:06
Find out more in our enamels collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/enamels
See a more detailed video on champlevé enamelling: vam.ac.uk/articles/how-was-it-made-champlev%C3%A9-enamelling
Championing Nigerian fabrics and silhouettes, she designed for the cosmopolitan, working woman. Her boutique swiftly became the go-to place for stylish people in Lagos, with diplomats and royalty among her regular customers. A true pioneer, Thomas-Fahm re-imagined traditional Nigerian styles for the modern woman – creating a pre-tied gèlè (headwrap) to make getting dressed easier, and added a zipper to the ìró (wrapper), allowing cosmopolitan women to move around with ease.
Find out more about the Africa Fashion exhibition: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion
Find out more about Shade Thomas-Fahm: vam.ac.uk/articles/nigerias-first-fashion-designer-shade-thomas-fahm
In this film printmaker and artist Anne Desmet recreates an early-Renaissance sheet of playing cards from our collection, originally made between 1490 – 1500. Using woodcutting and stencilling techniques, which seem labour intensive by today’s standards, this printing system would have revolutionised card playing by opening the market to a much wider audience.
Process:
Early-Renaissance playing cards: 00:00
Materials: 00:25
Transferring the design: 00:42
Carving the wood: 01:24
Preparing the ink and using the pounce: 01:46
Pressing the ink: 02:06
Applying colour: 02:44
Find out more about the object: collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O71945/part-of-an-uncut-sheet-print-savour%C3%A9-gilles
Discover more in our Renaissance collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/renaissance
Music credits:
Renaissance by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 licence. creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
Artist: http://audionautix.com
In 2018, the Gilbert Collection embarked on a major provenance research project which revealed that, unbeknownst to Arthur Gilbert, this gold ewer carried a problematic provenance. The dealer who sold him the ewer was secretly involved in the trade of illicit antiquities and the ewer had been illegally excavated and exported, deceiving Arthur Gilbert about its true provenance.
In light of this revelation, the Gilbert Trust, together with the Turkish Ministry of Culture, decided that the most appropriate place for the ewer would be the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara. In October 2021, the ewer was donated to this museum, where it went on display next to objects of the same period which provide crucial cultural and historical context.
Naturally leaving a gap in the V&A's Collection, contemporary metalsmith Adi Toch was comissioned to create an art piece responding to the ewer and its remarkable story, so that its presence is still felt. For her piece, Toch has not only used the same gold alloy of the ewer, but has also employed many of the same techniques used by the Hattian goldsmith, thousands of years ago. Her final piece, titled ‘Place to Place’ thoughtfully prompts us to consider the movements of objects through time, and how they continue to fascinate, inspire and connect us. Watch as Toch examines the materiality of the ewer, including its impeccable craftsmanship, and considers the complex history that it embodies as she creates her piece.
Find out more about the gold ewer: vam.ac.uk/articles/gold-ewer
Discover more about the Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/gilbert-collection
This film takes a closer look at the Joy Track Set from Ahluwalia’s 2021 Liberation collection, now acquired by the museum. A collaboration with graphic designer Dennis McInnes, the tracksuit's distinctive print was inspired by West African textiles, but printed on jersey fabric for a contemporary twist.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioning-masculinities-the-art-of-menswear
See our Fashion Collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
The technique of enamelling used intense heat to fuse glass onto a prepared metal surface, allowing the metalworker to create brightly coloured images. Medieval enamellers used several different techniques but champlevé enamelling was one of the most common. The word champlevé means literally 'raised fields', referring to the way that beds were dug out of a copper plate to receive the powdered enamel.
Watch as a small plaque based on a detail from a reliquary chest made around 1180 in Limoges is recreated. Whilst the basic process remains the same, medieval enamellers used kilns fuelled with charcoal and relied on their judgement when firing the enamel plaques.
Process for champlevé enamelling
Medieval casket: 00:00
Cutting and marking the copper: 00:43
Medieval bow drill: 01:16
Embedding into wax: 01:28
Carving troughs: 01:43
Making enamel: 01:56
Applying enamel with a goose quill: 02:22
Firing process: 02:38
Polishing with carborundum and cleaning the surface: 03:14
Wrigglework and adding decoration: 03:32
Final enamelled plaque: 03:45
Find out more about our medieval collection: vam.ac.uk/collections/medieval
Discover more about enamels: vam.ac.uk/collections/enamels