Peter ZelinkaThe ASIAir Plus allows you to control your entire astrophotography workflow from your smartphone / tablet. That means you can sit comfortably in your house and control your camera, monitor your guiding, control your Go-To, and much more.
I've used the ASIAir Pro extensively over the past two years, and really enjoyed it. However, it did suffer from a very bad wi-fi range. I could be within a few feet of the ASIAir Pro and still lose reception. Thankfully, the new ASIAir Plus solves this problem! I can still get reception, even with two brick walls between me and the ASIAir Plus.
You can buy the ASIAir Plus directly from your preferred astro retailer, it should officially launch in November.
To learn more about my ASIAir workflow, and how it can make your night a lot easier, check out the courses on my website: peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro 00:40 - ASIAir Plus Features 4:30 - Powering the ASIAir Plus 5:38 - Initial Setup (Activation + Firmware Update) 10:07 - ASIAir Plus Settings 15:36 - My Astro Workflow 16:37 - Polar Alignment 18:47 - Plate Solve and Go-To 20:44 - Cool that Camera! 22:02 - Start Guiding 23:42 - Set AutoRun Shooting Schedule 25:47 - Finish Guiding Calibration 27:07 - ASIAir Plus Review 29:27 - Learn More
ASIAir Plus - Review & TutorialPeter Zelinka2021-09-02 | The ASIAir Plus allows you to control your entire astrophotography workflow from your smartphone / tablet. That means you can sit comfortably in your house and control your camera, monitor your guiding, control your Go-To, and much more.
I've used the ASIAir Pro extensively over the past two years, and really enjoyed it. However, it did suffer from a very bad wi-fi range. I could be within a few feet of the ASIAir Pro and still lose reception. Thankfully, the new ASIAir Plus solves this problem! I can still get reception, even with two brick walls between me and the ASIAir Plus.
You can buy the ASIAir Plus directly from your preferred astro retailer, it should officially launch in November.
To learn more about my ASIAir workflow, and how it can make your night a lot easier, check out the courses on my website: peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro 00:40 - ASIAir Plus Features 4:30 - Powering the ASIAir Plus 5:38 - Initial Setup (Activation + Firmware Update) 10:07 - ASIAir Plus Settings 15:36 - My Astro Workflow 16:37 - Polar Alignment 18:47 - Plate Solve and Go-To 20:44 - Cool that Camera! 22:02 - Start Guiding 23:42 - Set AutoRun Shooting Schedule 25:47 - Finish Guiding Calibration 27:07 - ASIAir Plus Review 29:27 - Learn MoreBlurXTerminator Saves the Day!Peter Zelinka2023-02-07 | If you've got blurry stars, or a slightly fuzzy nebula / galaxy, then BlurXTerminator may save your image. In my experience, it does a wonderful job shrinking down bloated stars, and adding contrast and detail to an otherwise soft nebula.
In today's example we can see just how far BlurXterminator is able to go in salvaging some data!
You can download a free trial of BlurXTerminator here: rc-astro.com/resources/BlurXTerminator/index.phpComet tail blows back due to the solar winds!Peter Zelinka2023-01-22 | ...Mapping the Carolina Bays | Michael Davias InterviewPeter Zelinka2022-12-21 | Earlier this year I published a video on the Carolina Bays and discussed Antonio Zamora's ice boulder hypothesis. The foundation of that video was the LIDAR overlay for Google Earth, created by Michael Davias. This tools allows you to clearly see Carolina Bays, Nebraska Rainwater Basins, and High-Plains Playas in Google Earth. So far, Michael has mapped over 50,000 Carolina Bays in this survey!
Since the mystery regarding the Carolina Bays has yet to be solved, it's nice to hear from differing viewpoints. In this interview, Michael lays out his hypothesis on how the Carolina Bays were formed, and how they relate to the enigmatic Australasian Tektite Field.
If you would like to download the Carolina Bays LIDAR imagery, you can find it on Michael's website: http://cbaysurvey.cintos.org
00:00 - Intro 01:38 - Discovering the Carolina Bays 02:22 - Goldsboro Ridge Enigma 05:10 - Impact Hypothesis 07:01 - Australasian Tektite Mystery 12:47 - Mid-Pleistocene Transition 13:52 - Falsifying the Hypothesis 16:30 - Measuring the Bays with LIDAR 25:51 - The High-Plains Playas 29:13 - Impact Hypothesis - Saginaw Bay 34:53 - Carolina Bay Erosion 41:57 - Crater Alignments - Multiple Impacts? 44:36 - How did the Carolina Bays Form? 49:08 - Problems with Zamora's Ice Boulder Hypothesis 55:18 - Problems with Comet Airburst 57:47 - Dating the Carolina Bays 1:00:29 - Clay in Carolina Bays 1:04:47 - Bay Rims are Hard to See 1:05:38 - Nebraska Rainwater Basins 1:09:36 - No Fossils in Bays? 1:12:54 - Learn more at Cintos 1:14:10 - OutroASI 533MM Review + TutorialPeter Zelinka2022-12-09 | I've been using the ASI533MM on every clear night since May 2022, and this camera has done a phenomenal job! I love how well the sensor performs, with no amp glow and a high Quantum Efficiency This makes narrowband work much easier from my light polluted backyard! In addition, this camera pairs perfectly with my SpaceCat 250mm telescope. Thanks to the 2.7x crop factor of this sensor, I can fill the frame nicely with most nebulae and galaxies.
My only real problem with this camera is the square sensor. This is fine for most people, but its not ideal for video (with a 16x9 ratio). Also, the camera resolution is ~3000 x ~3000 pixels, which is a bit low. However, I haven't noticed any real quality loss when cropping in.
All things considered, I'd highly recommend the ASI533MM for anyone looking for a monochrome camera with a small sensor!
00:00 - Intro 00:26 - Price & Filter Options 01:39 - Sensor Size & Crop Factor 03:20 - No Amp Glow! 04:06 - Cooling System 04:49 - Control the 533MM 05:30 - Photos 06:36 - Final Review 08:07 - Orion & Star Lore 11:21 - Tutorial - Stacking in DSS 19:31 - PixInsight Workflow 26:56 - Photoshop Workflow 34:00 - OutroCatastrophe & Cartography - Sand DunesPeter Zelinka2022-11-05 | Our tool for today will be Google Earth Pro's "Historical Imagery" tool. This will allow us to see all of the satellite imagery that has been captured going back roughly 40 years:
A few months ago I had the unique opportunity to sit down with @TheRandallCarlson to discuss the sand formations found in the Sahara Desert. You can watch that video here:
After our discussion, I was excited to learn as much as possible about the other sand dune formations found around the world. I quickly realized that the formation and movement of sand dunes are not as obvious as they might appear to the untrained eye. For example, the Barchan Dunes, which are found all around the world, appear to be shaped by water (at least, I thought they did). Thanks to the "Historical Imagery" tool though, I learned that these sand formations are moved fairly quickly by wind.
As I dug deeper into the various dune fields, I learned that there really hasn't been that much research done on them. Imagine that! Not too many people are eager to wander out into the middle of a lifeless desert to study how sand moves... Another thing that stood out to me is that most of the sand dune formation research was done nearly 100 years ago, by one man. His work still forms the foundation of modern science in this field. He never had access to satellite data though.
We are the first generation that has easy access to our entire planet, thanks to Google Earth. Using this tool, along with the Historical Imagery, we can understand how our planet changes over time.
In one of the research papers linked above, the scientists admit that the sand dunes found in the Scablands of Eastern Washington were created during the ice age floods, roughly 12,800 - 10,000 years ago. This sand is likely the remains of some mountain ranges up north, which were eroded as the Cordilleran Ice Sheet was catastrophically melting.
Based on this understanding, I began to look at our sand dunes around the world. The Nebraska Sand Hills, which are the largest dune field in the Western Hemisphere, have been dated to 12,600 years ago. That was the oldest sediment date found in the sand dunes. If that dating is accurate, it coincides almost perfectly with the initial meltdown of the Laurentide Ice Sheet. Therefore, the formation of the Nebraska Sand Hills may be similar to the formation of the Scabland dunes. As the Laurentide Ice Sheet began melting due to some catastrophe, large flows of meltwater came pouring down south. Some of these flood waters may have washed over Nebraska, and deposited a large amount of sand. This would have all taken place during the start of the Younger Dryas.
As we know, the Younger Dryas started with a bang, and then got very cold. It remained that way for roughly 1,200 years. At ~11,600 years the Younger Dryas ended due to another large warming spike and we eventually transitioned into the present Holocene epoch. With the help of the National Map Viewer, and the "Tinted Hillshade Overlay" we can clearly see which way the flood waters went. (To the east of Nebraska). Therefore, I would say it's possible the initial event that triggered the Younger Dryas sent a pulse of meltwater down into Nebraska, depositing most of the dune field. Then, at the end of the Younger Dryas, the meltwater formed a new path through South / North Dakota and Minnesota. This became the major outlet for most of the meltwater, which is why it is so well-defined. This also explains why the Nebraska Sand Hills still exist, they were spared from most of the direct flood waters of the melting Laurentide Ice Sheet.
Assuming this hypothesis is correct, it would help to explain the formation of other dune fields found around the world. This brings us to the Catastrophism vs Uniformitarianism debate. The Uniformitarians look at our present rates of change and erosion, and apply that same speed throughout history. In other words: slow, incremental, one grain of sand at a time. The canyons we see, like the Grand Canyon, took millions of years to erode. The mountains we see, like the Rockies, took millions of years to grow.
A catastrophist sees the world through a different lens, all around him are clear signs of fast, intense erosion and deposition. The mountains may have been formed much faster, especially if a comet or asteroid slammed into the planet and accelerated the movement of plates and faults. Or at the very least disturbed them enough to become more active. This could also trigger volcanoes to erupt, continental plates to jolt and create tsunamis, and much more.
These catastrophic events could even lead to large floods, which are capable of moving large quantities of sand...Color Masks for Narrowband Processing | Photoshop TutorialPeter Zelinka2022-10-21 | A color mask allows you to precisely target each color channel in Photoshop. When combined with a Levels or Curves adjustment layer, this is a very powerful way to alter the color balance of your image. This workflow is great for nebula photos captured in H-Alpha + Oxygen, although you can use it for any camera and filter combination.
To learn more about astrophotography, check out my Deep Space Course on howtube: howtube.com/series/eUVHB9fI
00:00 - Intro 01:46 - Layer Mask Refresher 03:34 - InstaMask Workflow 08:23 - "Apply Mask" Alternate Workflow 13:10 - Selective Color Adjustments 14:14 - OutroLooking back at my early Milky Way photosPeter Zelinka2022-10-19 | Check out my new Milky Way Course, which has over 60 videos that will teach you how to take amazing nightscape images: howtube.com/series/pMFLni83
In today's video we'll take a look at my first Milky Way photos, ranging from 2014 - 2016. Surprisingly, they don't look as bad as I would've thought. The images are fairly grainy, the stars aren't 100% sharp, but the data isn't terrible. This just goes to show that you don't need the latest and greatest camera gear to take a nice Milky Way photo.
However, I do recommend getting a star tracker at some point. These devices will move your camera with the speed of the stars, allowing you to capture more light. I've got plenty of YouTube videos that will teach you how to use them as well.
00:00 - Looking back at the JPEGs 03:42 - RAW Editing Tutorial 10:06 - Double-Processing Tutorial 17:19 - Wide-Aperture Pros / Cons 21:12 - Light Pollution vs Dark Skies 27:18 - Final ThoughtsCreate a Star Trails Timelapse VideoPeter Zelinka2022-10-17 | To learn more about Star Trails, check out my new Star Trails Course on howtube: howtube.com/series/JOx736sk
In this video I'll show you how to create a beautiful star trails timelapse video. You will need StarStaX for this workflow, which you can download using the link below.
https://markus-enzweiler.de/software/starstax/
We'll start off editing the RAW photos in Adobe Bridge + Camera RAW. Be sure to fix the exposure, white balance, contrast, and saturation. Also, head to the Detail tab and lower the "Sharpening" slider to 0. You may also want to increase the "Noise Reduction" slider to around 10 -20.
After you've made your edits, save the RAWs as JPEGS in a new folder. Next, use StarStaX to create a demo star trails image. This will show off any problems with your edits. If the final star trails image doesn't look good, you can always go back and re-edit your RAW photos again. If the star trails image looks good though, besides the planes, you can continue on.
We'll head to Photoshop next and begin removing any planes or distracting lights from every single photo. This is optional, but highly recommended. Consider this - every light will be burned into the final video. Therefore, if a plane flies through the image within the first few photos, it will be there for the rest of the timelapse.
After all the plane trails have been removed from the individual JPEG photos, you can head back to StarStaX. Run through the processing again, this time using "Save After Each Step" option. We'll use these JPEGS to create the final video.
Finally, go back to Photoshop and click File - Open. Click on the first photo in the StarStaX folder, then click the "Open Image Sequence" button. Now click "Open" and Photoshop will take all of those photos and convert them to a video file. I recommend 24 FPS.
Feel free to add any Adjustment Layers you want to the video. I'd recommend a Curves, Vibrance, and a few Selective Colors.
00:00 - Intro 01:04 - Camera RAW Processing 08:04 - Test Photos for Problems 10:13 - Remove Planes and Lights 14:38 - Use StarStaX to Create Timelapse Photos 16:36 - Fix remaining problems 19:42 - Create Timelapse Video 25:58 - OutroTriangulum Galaxy - Alternate Workflow with PixInsightPeter Zelinka2022-10-14 | In my previous Triangulum Galaxy DSLR workflow we started off in Bridge and Camera RAW. This allowed us to fix the Exposure, White Balance, Vignette, Color Noise, and more. Then we saved those images as TIFFs and stacked them.
In this Alternate Workflow we'll be stacking the RAW data first. This will be a better choice if you are taking calibration frames. You always want to stack the RAW Lights, Darks, Flats, etc... After we've stacked our RAW photos with the calibration frames, we'll head over to PixInsight. There's a very powerful tool called "ScreenTransferFunction" that can fix both the Exposure and color cast with a single click!
When the image has been properly stretched you may start to notice more problems. Since I did not take any calibration frames, my stacked image still has a noticeable vignette and a slight amp glow. While there are ways to fix this in PixInsight, I prefer something easier.
GradientXterminator is a paid plugin for Photoshop that does a wonderful job removing DSLR amp glow, light pollution, and vignette gradients. You can download it here: rc-astro.com/resources/GradientXTerminator
We can use GradientXterminator to quickly fix the vignette, without dealing with the complicated PixInsight workflow.
The next step of the workflow involves removing the stars. I recommend StarNet 2, which you can download here: starnetastro.com/download
StarNet 2 is available both as a standalone application and a plugin for PixInsight. I find that the PixInsight version has more functionality and is ultimately easier to use. StarNet can even create a Star Mask image, which will come in handy later.
There is a major flaw with this alternate workflow though, and that is the Color Noise. In my standard workflow, this Color Noise is automatically removed at the very start in Camera RAW. We never even have to think about it. Since we stacked the RAW data today though (and I didn't incorporate any calibration frames) the Color Noise is baked into the stacked image.
I'd recommend watching some other YouTuber's for more information on removing color noise in PixInsight. I don't have enough experience yet with the software to show a fast, easy way to remove the color noise. So I'll leave that to someone else.
00:00 - Intro 00:32 - Stack RAW data with Calibration Frames 1:33 - Fix Exposure in PixInsight 02:16 - Fix Color Cast in PixInsight 03:19 - Apply Changes to Histogram 04:55 - Save Image and Open in Photoshop 05:33 - GradientXterminator 07:29 - StarNet 2 in PixInsight 09:37 - Star Reduction in Photoshop 13:17 - Enhance Galaxy Details 14:29 - Combine Images 15:31 - Color Noise Problems... 16:47 - OutroEdit the Triangulum Galaxy - DSLR WorkflowPeter Zelinka2022-10-12 | In this video I'll take you through one of my DSLR workflows. We'll keep it fairly simple, but this should be good for both beginner and intermediate photographers.
00:00 - Intro 00:53 - Camera RAW Processing 09:36 - Stack Photos 11:11 - Analyzing the Image 12:55 - Curves Adjustments 14:57 - Crop 15:31 - StarNet 17:29 - Enhance Galaxy Structure 20:28 - Star Reduction 24:23 - Combine Stars with StarNet 26:30 - Remove Grain & Final ProcessingMeridian Flip Tutorial | ZWO AM5 + ASIAirPeter Zelinka2022-10-10 | The "Meridian" is an imaginary line that goes directly overhead from North to South. A "Meridian Flip" is where your mount will automatically rotate your camera and telescope once the object you are photographing crosses the meridian. Without the meridian flip, your telescope and camera would go below horizontal, and continue to rotate towards the ground. It's possible that the camera could run into a tripod leg, or even the ground, if the mount keeps rotating all night long. Therefore, most Go-To Mounts have automated Meridian Flips, although you may need to configure it in your image acquisition software.
For those with the ZWO AM5 Mount, it's important to know that it will automatically stop rotating once the object you are photographing reaches the meridian. The mount is smart enough to know that if it rotates any further, it's entering the "danger zone". This can be problematic though, if you fall asleep and didn't have the meridian flip enabled. Since the mount is no longer tracking, all of your photos will be blurry.
00:00 - Understanding the Meridian 02:04 - ASIAir Meridian Test 04:14 - Meridian Flip Settings 06:03 - AM5 Special Note 07:02 - OutroASIAir Plus - DSLR WorkflowPeter Zelinka2022-10-07 | If you've got a Nikon or Canon camera, then you can use your ASIAir to control the entire workflow at night. (Unfortunately Sony cameras are still not supported)
The main reason you'd want to use this workflow is for the Sky Atlas feature. Assuming you have a Go-To Mount, you can quickly find any nebula or galaxy in the night sky. Plus, you'll see the composition before ever taking a photo! This will really speed things up.
Another benefit of this workflow is that you can monitor the images in real-time. If you notice some blurry stars, you can head outside and fix the problem. Without the ASIAir, you have no idea what's going on with the camera until you stop the interval and inspect the photos on the back LCD screen.
For more information, including links to all the products I mentioned, visit my howtube channel:
00:00 - Intro 01:34 - Initial Setup & Cables 02:43 - Auto-Guider Configuration 05:27 - Get DSLR Ready 07:11 - Connect to ASIAir App 08:37 - Main Camera Settings 09:05 - Take First Photo & Plate Solve 10:15 - Polar Alignment 12:28 - Find Object with Sky Atlas 14:45 - Focus Lens 16:25 - Begin Guiding & Dither Settings 18:36 - Shooting Schedule 21:40 - Take First Image 22:18 - Stop and Refocus 23:54 - OutroStack FITs on Mac with ASI StudioPeter Zelinka2022-07-17 | In this video I'll teach you how to use a free program - ASI Studio to stack your dedicated astro camera's FITS files. ASI Studio has come a long way over the years, and it now includes a Deep Sky Stack program. This is very easy to use, although it is lacking some important features. Since Mac users don't have access to DeepSkyStacker, and StarrySkyStacker can't read FITS files, you'll want to use ASI Studio for your stacking.
After we've stacked the FITS files, I'll do a quick Photoshop tutorial and show you how to create a beautiful color image.
00:00 - Intro 00:33 - Download ASI Studio 01:00 - Stack Photos in Deep Stack 07:06 - Create Color Photo 08:51 - Align Stars 10:15 - Fix Color Cast 11:23 - Fix Contrast 12:07 - StarNet 15:54 - Add Stars back 16:45 - Topaz DeNoise 19:17 - Final Touches 20:35 - OutroZWO AM5 - Full Tutorial & ReviewPeter Zelinka2022-07-15 | The AM5 is pretty easy to use, especially if you have an ASIAir. In this video I'll show you the initial setup process, then we'll go through my entire ASIAir workflow.
To read my full review, and get direct links to all the accessories, cables, and products in this video, head over to howtube.com:
00:00 - Intro 01:03 - EQ6R Comparison 04:25 - Setup 10:44 - AM5 App Overview 13:20 - ASIAir Workflow 15:24 - Polar Alignment 18:57 - Find Object with Sky Atlas 21:11 - Test Photo 22:12 - Guiding & Shooting Schedule 26:36 - Begin Taking Photos 29:14 - Outro2022 Course Updates - Over 120 New Tutorials Available Now!Peter Zelinka2022-05-31 | howtube.com/channels/PeterZelinka
In February 2022 I began updating all of my courses - the Deep Space Course, Star Trails Course, and my Star Tracker Courses. I'm excited to announce that they are finally complete and available on Howtube.com!
If you've already purchased any of my courses, you'll get free access to the latest versions! Just sign up for a free account on Howtube using the same email address that you originally purchased my course(s) with. They will be automatically added to your account.
Howtube is a website dedicated to learning new hobbies. I've been working directly with their team over the past few months to make sure the website has all the necessary features.
For example, below each video there's an "Additional Information" tab. I've written out a full description (usually 5,000 - 7,000 words!) for all 170+ videos! You can print these out and take them with you, or save them as PDFs and refer back to them as needed.
Another feature is the "Products" tab. I've gotten hundreds of comments and emails over the years, asking for arca-swiss clamps, cables, and other accessories I use in my videos. To make both our lives easier, you can now find direct links to all the relevant products I use under each video.
I've also enabled Downloads for my tutorials. You can download any video you want, save it to your smartphone / tablet, and watch out in the field. No internet connection required!
If you're a fellow content creator, then you might want to check out Howtube's Pro subscription. Once you sign up, you can begin selling your own courses, merchandise, and more. Based on my experience over the past few years, Howtube makes the entire process much easier!
From now until June 15th I'm offering a $100 discount on my brand new Milky Way Course. You can check it all out using the link below:
00:00 - Intro 1:18 - Free Updates 2:31 - Howtube Features 4:30 - The Milky Way Course 7:49 - Creating your own CoursesASI 533MM Test & ASIAir Sky AtlasPeter Zelinka2022-05-22 | ZWO sent over a new ASI 533MM for me to test out, and luckily I had my first clear night in 4 months! During my tests, I learned that ZWO also released a new firmware update for the ASIAir. This new version includes a feature I've been looking forward to for years!
The Sky Atlas is an interactive map that shows you the current FOV of your telescope + camera. This allows you to quickly frame up various nebulae and galaxies, and get an idea of how they'll look before you take a photo. The Sky Atlas can also move the Go-To mount to any region of the sky.
This is a fun way to explore the night sky, test your compositions, and control your mount, all within the ASIAir app.
After testing out the 533MM, I found that it did a pretty good job! I was honestly a bit skeptical about the "No Amp Glow", after having that problem with every ZWO camera so far. However, as you'll see, the new 533MM has 0 Amp Glow, just as advertised!
Beyond that, my only concern with the 533MM is the 1" square sensor. The 1" sensor is very small, giving you a 2.7x magnification for any focal length. I used the WO RedCat 51 telescope, which has a focal length of 250mm. When I pair the 533 with the RedCat, my new effective focal length is almost 700mm! If I was able to use my Tamron 150-600mm G1 lens with this camera (I can't due to the lens' aperture design), I'd have 1,620mm of effective focal length!
This brings us to the ASI 183MM. A lot of people emailed me over the years asking about this camera. Since it had a 1" sensor, it should pair well with the smaller telescopes like the RedCat or the Radian Raptor. I had never used the 183MM, so I didn't have much practical advice. ZWO is currently marketing the new 533MM as the successor to the 183MM, as well as a good entry-level dedicated astro camera.
While I like the magnification factor of the 1" sensor, I'm not a big fan of the 1x1 square crop. I prefer the more rectangular crop of a Full Frame or Crop Sensor. This makes it easier to show in videos (16x9), print out, or post online. The 1x1 square just doesn't work well for sharing, unless you're posting on Instagram. Again, this is all just my personal opinion. You might not care about the 1x1 ratio. Or, maybe you can utilize it for some high-res panoramas of the night sky!
All things considered, the ASI 533MM does a good job, especially when paired with a small telescope. It has good low-light performance, no amp glow, a reasonable price (~$1,000), and it pairs perfectly with the ASIAir.
Click the link below to more about the Deep Space Course, which has over 90 videos that will guide you through the entire process!
00:00 - Intro 00:21 - ASI 533MM Overview 02:29 - ASIAir Sky Atlas 05:04 - Capturing my Images 05:33 - ASI 533MM Image Review 08:21 - OutroCatastrophe and Cartography - The Final FrontierPeter Zelinka2022-04-05 | Join me for an exciting adventure through the solar system!
In this video, we'll go for a flight through the Outer Wilds. Along the way, I'll discuss some ideas I've been kicking around for the past few years.
mobiusdigitalgames.com/outer-wilds.htmlCatastrophe and Cartography - CataractsPeter Zelinka2022-04-04 | With the help of Google Earth, we can explore dozens of waterfalls around the world. Niagara Falls is one of the most impressive waterfalls, and we'll be using it as our starting point today.
One of the defining features of Niagara Falls is the "horseshoe" shape, also called a "Cataract". We'll see similar cataracts throughout our journey today.
Potholes Coulee, in the Scablands of eastern Washington, has two very large extinct cataracts. These were formed during the melt-down of the ice sheets during the Younger Dryas (12,900 - 11,600 years ago). As the intense sheet floods raced over the landscape, they carved out the cataracts in just a few weeks.
Speaking of accelerated erosion, we have Canyon Lake Gorge in Texas. Canyon Lake Gorge was formed in 2002, when a storm dropped over 34 inches of rain in just a few days. This caused the dam at Canyon Lake to burst, and sent catastrophic floods down the valley.
Based on the erosion seen at Canyon Lake Gorge, we now know for certain that landscapes can be eroded much faster than mainstream science was willing to admit. This proves that canyons can be formed in days!
We are currently in a calm, minimally erosive phase. This is especially true in the deserts of Utah. The current rate of erosion is one drop of water, one grand of sand at a time. There may be an occasional flash-flood, but the desert landscapes have been pretty well preserved due to the lack of rainfall in the past few thousand years.
However, there are times of accelerated erosion, as our planet shifts from a glacial to interglacial climate. Based on current research, there have been ~20 of these transitions in the past 2.6 million years.
As we ponder this series of events, we realize that there must be a massive influx of energy to the planet. How else would all that ice melt? This is known as the "Energy Paradox". There are a few possible explanations - increased volcanism, increased solar output, change in the earth's orbital inclination, impact events.
Here's my hypothesis:
While the planet is going through the transition from glacial to interglacial, there are mega-storms forming across the world. These mega-storms could stay over one large area for an extended time. This causes severe erosion, like what we saw in Canyon Lake Gorge, but orders-of-magnitude larger.
After the planet stabilizes, the erosion slows down to our present-day rates. This minimal erosion helps to preserve the scars left behind.
The Canyonlands in Utah were mainly formed during these brief, but extreme, storms.
I'm not suggesting that the Canyonlands were formed in one event. More likely, they are the result of the 20+ transitions from glacial to inter-glacial during the last 2.6 million years.
It's possible that all of the sandstone that was washed away ultimately ended up in present-day Mexico, where we can find large tracts of sand dunes. (All that sandstone had to go somewhere, after all)
00:00 - Niagara Falls 02:37 - Snoqualmie Falls 04:26 - Iguazu Falls 05:28 - Potholes Coulee 07:06 - Canyon Lake Gorge 08:22 - Upheaval Dome Controversy 09:15 - White Rim Cataracts 13:10 - Corona Arch 14:37 - Goosenecks & Monument Valley 16:12 - Following the Floods 17:12 - RecapCatastrophe and Cartography - Carolina BaysPeter Zelinka2022-02-11 | The Carolina Bays are a collection of thousands of elliptical depressions that cover the southeastern United States, from Mississippi to New Jersey. With the help of LIDAR technology, we can now see these Carolina Bays in high resolution in Google Earth.
As usual, there is a big controversy regarding the creation of the Carolina Bays. The mainstream opinion usually attributes their creation to a combination of wind and water erosion. Basically, lakes were formed a long time ago, and through the slow process of wind acting on the lake water, the elliptical shape was formed. Similar lakes are found up in Russia and Canada today, near the north pole. These are called "thermokarst lakes". (If you use Google Earth to view them, they are pretty fascinating!)
However, as you study the unique circumstances surrounding the Carolina Bays, the mainstream view does not hold up under scrutiny. Hence, a new theory was proposed, chiefly by Antonio Zamora. He argues that the Carolina Bays were caused by chunks of ice raining down from the atmosphere, after a comet impacted the Laurentide Ice Sheet over the Saginaw Bay area roughly 12,900 years ago.
If a comet were to hit the ice sheet at a low angle, then it could have launched millions of chunks of ice into the atmosphere. Upon re-entry, these ice chunks would have landed all throughout the Southeastern United States. Since they are relatively soft, being made of ice (not rock), they would then create the elliptical craters on the unconsolidated ground, but not on the rocky terrain.
Others have proposed a comet / asteroid exploding in mid-air. The resulting fragments would shower the region and create the elliptical bays.
If the Carolina Bays were created in a catastrophic event, this would help to explain the sudden extinction of the megafauna in North America during the Younger Dryas.
** Be sure to Right Click and "Open in New Tab" for all the links below!
** After you've downloaded the KMZ file, launch Google Earth. Go to File - Open... then choose the KMZ file. The Carolina Bays filter should now be active!
00:00 - Intro 01:18 - Carolina Bays Overview 03:29 - How did they form? 05:01 - When were they created? 07:51 - Megafauna Extinction at Younger Dryas 09:15 - Nebraska Rainwater Basins 10:22 - OutroHorsehead Nebula Processing TutorialPeter Zelinka2022-02-08 | This tutorial focuses on removing the stars, increasing the contrast and texture of the nebula, then adding the stars back in.
00:00 - Intro 01:41 - Getting Ready 02:11 - Color Noise Removal 03:38 - My Gear 04:30 - Remove Stars 05:03 - StarNet++ V2 06:57 - Cleanup Artifacts 08:45 - High Pass Filter 12:00 - Texture and Clarity 14:08 - Add Stars Back 15:22 - Star Reduction 19:16 - OutroCatastrophe and Cartography - Ice Age Floods VisualizedPeter Zelinka2022-02-03 | Since we are covering numerous controversial topics in this video, I wanted to be sure and include lots of links for you to do your own research on. One of the most important points to keep in mind though, is that water and erosion are scale-invariant. In other words we can see the same shapes and patterns, but on radically different scales. The small current ripples that you see along the creek can be found at West Bar Ripples in Washington, but these are orders-of-magnitude larger!
Here's the link for the USGS National Map Viewer. Remember, you want the "3DEP - Elevation Tinted Hillshade" filter:
(Be sure to right-click and "Open in New Tab" for each link below)
Based on my tests, the new All Sky Polar Alignment procedure is quite accurate, showing only a few arc-minutes of error when compared with the traditional polar alignment process.
To be clear, the mount still needs to be pointed up towards Polaris to start. If you can't see Polaris, then just guess. As long as the mount is roughly pointed up towards Polaris, you should have no trouble using the new feature.
If you find yourself in a situation where you cannot see Polaris, or the Northern sky very well, then this could be the perfect solution.
Alternatively, if you live near the equator and have relied on doing a Drift Alignment, then this new All Sky Align may make your night a lot easier!Fornax LighTrack II - Tutorial and ReviewPeter Zelinka2022-01-12 | The Fornax LighTrack II is marketed as the most precise and accurate star tracker on the market. This is mainly due to the innovative friction drive, which offers much less periodic error than traditional star trackers.
In this video I'll show you how to use the LighTrack II. It can be a bit difficult to figure out, even if you already use a star tracker.
00:00 - Intro 00:57 - Attach dovetail plate to LighTrack 2:07 - Fornax Design 3:25 - Powering the LighTrack 4:48 - Tracking Speeds, Hemisphere, Slew buttons 6:40 - Attach a Ballhead 7:51 - Polar Alignment Basics 8:26 - Polar Scopes 11:28 - Polar Alignment Tips 12:55 - Attaching your Camera 14:28 - Find, Compose, and Focus 17:11 - Laser Pointers 19:04 - Camera Settings 23:16 - Auto-Guiders 23:58 - Final ReviewDithering with the ASIAir Plus & EQ6-R ProPeter Zelinka2021-10-14 | Dithering is a great way to reduce walking noise patterns and color mottle from your astrophotography images. Provided you have an auto-guider, Go-To Mount, and the proper software (in this case the ASIAir), you can do dithering quite easily.
Dithering just moves your camera and telescope very slightly in a random direction between each exposure. This random movement will help to remove distracting noise problems from your final image. Since the stars all need to be re-aligned during stacking, this should smooth out the color mottle splotches and walking noise patterns, leaving you with a noticeably cleaner image.
00:00 - Intro 1:06 - Go-To Setup 5:04 - Focus Telescope 06:16 - Polar Alignment 07:58 - Plate Solve 08:40 - Go-To Heart Nebula 9:35 - Dithering 11:55 - Begin Guiding 13:04 - Camera Settings 14:19 - Dither Test 16:49 - Walking Noise & Color Mottle 18:32 - Dither Comparison 22:00 - OutroSequator Milky Way Stack Tutorial - 2021 EditionPeter Zelinka2021-08-03 | In this video I'll explain my Milky Way workflow using Sequator, Camera RAW, and Photoshop.
In order to follow along, you'll want 10 - 20 images of the Milky Way. These should be taken one-after-the-other, so the stars don't move too much between your first and last shot.
First, we use Adobe Bridge to open our RAW images in Camera RAW. From there, we can apply some basic corrections and adjustments to the RAW images. Once the photos look good, we can save them as TIFF files. At that point, we're ready to stack the photos in Sequator. After the images have been stacked together, you can bring the final TIFF into Photoshop and begin the processing.
00:00 - Intro 00:57 - Taking your Photos 1:58 - Basic Edits in Camera RAW 8:57 - Sequator Tutorial 14:20 - Before/After Stack Comparison 17:02 - Photoshop Workflow 22:44 - OutroCleaner Drone Photos with StackingPeter Zelinka2021-07-16 | Stacking is a fairly well-known process to create cleaner images, whether you're using a DSLR, Drone, or any other camera. Rather than taking a single image, you should take between 5 - 20 (depending on your camera and the amount of light). The more photos you have, the cleaner the final image will be.
Once you've captured your images, you can bring them into an application like Photoshop. Photoshop will easily align the images, and then stack them together to reduce noise and increase detail.
I recommend shooting in RAW format on your camera, whenever possible. The RAW format (in this case DNG), will preserve more details and give you the most flexibility during the editing process. If you only have JPEG files, you can still follow this workflow, it just won't work as well.
00:00 - Intro 01:08 - Open Images 02:11 - Take More Photos to Reduce Grain 04:56 - Save TIFF files 07:51 - Open TIFFs in Photoshop 09:06 - Stack your Photos 11:20 - Recap 13:23 - Save Images 14:36 - Final WordsDeepSkyStacker - Full Tutorial (2021 Edition)Peter Zelinka2021-06-09 | This full walkthrough will teach you the basics of using DeepSkyStacker to stack your FITS or RAW files. We won't necessarily get into anything too complicated in this video, I'll basically just show you what's worked well for me over the past few years. If you want to just get a quick look at how to use the app, skip to 39:39
You can download the application here: http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html
00:00 - Intro 00:50 - Import Photos 03:33 - Register Photos 09:55 - Choose Reference Frame 12:15 - Stacking Photos 16:58 - Dark Frames 19:33 - Flat / Bias Frames 22:09 - Save Picture 23:25 - Recap 25:06 - DSLR Workflow 32:02 - My Preferred Workflow 39:39 - Quick DSS Recap (TL;DW) 42:34 - Final Comparison 44:09 - OutroStarSpikes Pro 4 - OverviewPeter Zelinka2021-06-05 | While I was bored today I stumbled upon StarSpikes Pro 4, a plugin for Photoshop that allows you to easily add star glow or spikes to your images. In this video I'll show you how it works, and give you some tips to get the best results
Here's a link for the plugin, if you want to check it out:
prodigitalsoftware.com/StarSpikesPro4.htmlTelescope.Live - A Fun Way to Spend a Cloudy Night!Peter Zelinka2021-05-18 | Telescope.Live is an online platform that allows you to control telescopes across the world. If you're like me, and tired of cloudy nights, this is a fun way to practice your editing skills, and see some new objects!
You can sign up here for the 30-days free trial: bit.ly/2QSdxhF
New Telescope Live subscribers can also use my affiliate promo code to save 20% off for up to 12 months: PETZELYT
If you already have a Telescope.Live account, use this link to save 20% off an annual subscription: https://app.telescope.live/accountsettings?promo-code=PETZELYT
00:00 - Intro 00:59 - Telescope.Live Basics 5:28 - Advanced Features 8:04 - Planetary Photography 8:57 - Quick Stacking Tutorial 11:13 - Create RGB Image in Photoshop 13:54 - Basic Adjustments 18:07 - Fix Hot Pixels 19:47 - OutroFrom IT to Astrophotography - How I Changed my LifePeter Zelinka2021-04-07 | I highly recommend reading this book, the War of Art: blackirishbooks.com/product/the-war-of-art
Finally, here's my website if you want to see more: peterzelinka.comEdit the Rosette Nebula in 10 Minutes | Astro ChallengePeter Zelinka2021-03-29 | If you're using a DSLR for astrophotography, you may be a bit overwhelmed by the thought of using a monochrome dedicated astro camera. I know I was. One of my goals with this video is to show that it's really quite easy to create a color photo. The only real downside of a mono camera is the expense of buying filters, and the increased shooting time required.
Here's a link to the full 30 minute tutorial on the Rosette Nebula: youtu.be/I0Vq4MyMLUY
00:00 - Intro 00:46 - Begin Processing 02:26 - Selective Color 03:58 - Noise Reduction 04:44 - Star Reduction 05:44 - High Pass Filter 07:06 - More Selective Color 09:33 - Image Complete! 09:48 - Comparison TimeEQ6R - Pro / ASIAir Pro | Full Workflow (Updated)Peter Zelinka2021-03-12 | In this tutorial I'll show you how to control every function of your SkyWatcher EQ6R-Pro with the help of the ZWO ASIAir Pro.
If you have a dedicated astro camera, filters, and auto-guider this workflow will allow you to control everything from your smartphone / tablet! No hand-controller required!
00:00 - Intro 00:25 - Connecting the Cables 05:36 - Balance RA and Dec 07:41 - ASIAir Pro Initial Setup 15:16 - SkySafari Plus 18:14 - Full Workflow 27:10 - Setup Auto-Guider 32:07 - OutroKase Filters Bahtinov Mask ReviewPeter Zelinka2021-03-12 | If you're having trouble focusing at night, a Bahtinov Mask can really help! While most Bahtinov Masks are made for telescopes, but Kase recently released some that are designed for DSLR lenses. They've got an 82mm and 77mm circular Bahtinov Mask, as well as a square 100mm option.
00:00 - Intro 01:00 - Kase Circular Bahtinov Mask 9:06 - Kase Square Bahtinov Mask 12:24 - Closer Look 17:52 - Final RecommendationsRosette Nebula Workflow - Narrowband EditPeter Zelinka2021-03-10 | In this video I'll show my full workflow for the Rosette Nebula in narrowband. I'm using DeepSkyStacker and Photoshop for most of this workflow. If you're on Mac, you can use StarrySkyStacker instead of DSS.
00:00 - Stack FITS in DeepSkyStacker 12:39 - File Organization 13:07 - Photoshop Basics 19:35 - Start Hubble Palette Workflow 23:04 - Fix Color with Selective Color 25:49 - Fix Grain/Color Noise 27:33 - Star Reduction 32:27 - High Pass Filter 35:24 - Dodge the NebulaGo-To Mount Lessons - Week 1Peter Zelinka2021-03-07 | In the first week of using a Go-To mount, I've already learned a lot!
00:00 - Intro 00:28 - Dark Frames 2:55 - RA & Dec Coordinates 4:40 - Astrobin Saves the Day! 6:27 - No ST4 Cable for Guiding 7:11 - Electronic Focusers 9:51 - Go To Mounts are Easy!Star Tracker Buying Guide | 2021 EditionPeter Zelinka2021-02-13 | For more information, be sure to read my extended article:
00:00 - Intro 1:27 - Go-To Mounts 3:14 - MoveShootMove 9:02 - SkyGuider Pro 13:47 - SkyGuider - iPolar 16:01 - Star Adventurer 23:23 - Star Adventurer 2i 24:40 - Auto-Guiders 25:58 - Final Recommendation 28:26 - Star Tracker CoursesBig News! 2021 Astrophotography PlansPeter Zelinka2021-02-04 | In honor of Steve Chestnut who made all of this possible. Also, thanks to his wife - Patricia, daughter - Melinda, and Adam.
I can't wait to put all this great gear to use!
Click the link below to visit Steve's wonderful gallery:
stevechesnut.comEasily View FITS files on both Windows & Mac - ASIStudioPeter Zelinka2021-01-28 | In this video I'll show you how to easily view your FITS files on both Mac and Windows computers using the free ASIStudio:
astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software-driversAuto-Guider Tutorial - SkyGuider Pro & Star Adventurer (2021 Edition)Peter Zelinka2021-01-21 | In this video I'll explain how to buy, setup, and use an auto-guider for your SkyGuider Pro / Star Adventurer. If you have a Go-To mount, then this video may not be of much help.
0:00 - Intro 0:56 - Buying Guide 9:20 - Setup Auto-Guider 13:17 - PHD2 Overview 22:03 - Auto-Guider Workflow 23:01 - Guiding in PHD2 32:10 - PHD2 Recap 33:22 - ASIAir Pro Guiding 38:29 - OutroFinding Inspiration in AstrophotographyPeter Zelinka2021-01-10 | At some point in your astrophotography journey you may start to feel burnt-out, or disappointed by a lack of progress. When that happens, one thing that can really help is looking at photos other astrophotographers have taken. This can give you some new goals to strive towards, or maybe introduce you to a new object you want to try and photograph!
Astrobin has a great catalogue of images from all over the world. By using the different search functions, you can find images that were taken with a similar setup to what you have. This will show what's possible (when you finally get a clear night!)
If you want to save 10% off a membership, you can use the code: ZELINKA2021 or click the link below:
astrobin.com/accounts/register/?r=ZELINKA2021Star Tracker Blending Tutorial - Lumenzia PluginPeter Zelinka2021-01-06 | In this tutorial I'll show you how to use the Lumenzia luminosity mask software to blend your wide-angle Milky Way images.
Generally, you want to take a ~4 minute exposure for your foreground, followed by a tracked ~4 minute exposure for the sky. You can always use different settings based on your camera's performance.
0:00 - Intro 3:53 - Initial Edits 6:26 - Align Layers 9:07 - Lumenzia Overview 13:23 - Refine Layer Mask 22:21 - Verify Mask Looks Good 24:25 - Shooting TipsAstrophotography Made Easy - Part 4: ProcessingPeter Zelinka2020-12-07 | *Here's a link for the TIFF file, so you can follow along in Photoshop:
In the final video of my Astro Made Easy Course, we'll go through the full post-processing workflow. I use a specialized workflow that's designed for modern DSLR/mirrorless cameras. This tends to give great results most of the time. However, there will be some cases where the more traditional workflow does a better job. For example, if you have an older DSLR that has a lot of sensor problems (banding, amp glow, color noise, etc...) then this workflow may exacerbate those problems. In your case, you'd want to try taking Dark, Flat, and Bias Frames. These calibration frames are designed to help subdue the sensor-related problems.
For more information on processing, check out my Deep Space Course which has full-length tutorials for many different objects: peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro 1:15 - Initial Edits in Camera RAW 13:40 - Stack Photos 23:21 - Photoshop Intro 25:38 - Levels Adjustment 28:40 - Curves Adjustments 34:49 - Cropping 36:09 - Selective Color 42:27 - Camera RAW Adjustments 46:03 - Fix Gradients 48:42 - Save Final ImageAstrophotography Made Easy - Part 3: SetupPeter Zelinka2020-12-06 | In this video I show my full setup process for deep space astrophotography. The basic workflow is - Find a suitable shooting location, find Polaris, do a Polar Alignment, attach camera gear, balance your equipment and counterweights, re-do Polar Alignment, find the object, focus the lens, dial in camera settings, begin shooting.
For more information on setting up your star tracker, be sure to check out my full-length courses. These go into a lot more detail than I can in this single video. I'll cover different workflows you can use, depending on your skill level, and how to take your star tracker to the next level using an auto-guider.
00:00 - Intro 00:35 - Find Shooting Location 03:39 - Polar Scope FAQ 06:16 - Polar Alignment 14:47 - Balance Counterweight 21:27 - Double-Check Polar Alignment 23:06 - Finding your Object 30:19 - Camera Settings 36:25 - RecapAstrophotography Made Easy - Part 2: PlanningPeter Zelinka2020-12-06 | If you want to get great astro photos, you'll need to do a bit of planning. The main things to consider are - the position of the moon, where your object will be at in the sky, how much light pollution you have to contend with, what focal length you'll need, when does twilight begin, and will you have clear skies?
0:00 Intro 1:17 Choose your Camera 9:14 Choose a Lens / Telescope 13:10 Camera Sensor Size and Focal Length 15:26 Choose a Star Tracker / Mount 20:33 Tripods 23:50 Light Pollution Filters 27:38 Post Processing SoftwarePhotoshop Sky Replacement | Milky Way PhotographyPeter Zelinka2020-10-25 | A new Sky Replacement tool was included in the 2021 update for Adobe Photoshop. In this video, I'll show how well it works and compare the final results to the traditional method of using Luminosity Masks.
To learn more about astrophotography, check out my tutorials:
peterzelinka.com/tutorialsEdit the Milky Way in 10 Minutes | Astro ChallengePeter Zelinka2020-10-14 | In this weeks video I'll show you how to edit the Milky Way, and blend a foreground + tracked sky exposure in just 10 minutes!
For more information, check out my tutorials on my website:
peterzelinka.com/tutorialsEdit Andromeda Galaxy in 10 Minutes | Astro ChallengePeter Zelinka2020-10-08 | Today we are going to see how easy it can be to edit the Andromeda Galaxy using typical photography software - Camera RAW/Lightroom and Photoshop!
For more information, be sure to check out my tutorials:
peterzelinka.com/tutorialsAttach your Guide Scope to a DSLRPeter Zelinka2020-10-01 | In this video I explain how I attach my ZWO 30mm f/4 guide scope to my DSLR.