Rejected in Lalish. Allowed in Mosul federal IRAQ with Kurdish visa @DavideTravelli
Rejected in Lalish. Allowed in Mosul federal IRAQ with Kurdish visa  @DavideTravelli
Uploaded January 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Cycling the world - Asia: 19 episode
I wake up in a grassy patch outside a small place called the Rose Market where I was allowed to camp. Straight away the road kicks up with a steep climb toward Shekhan and the Kurdish mountains roll endlessly under a brutal forty four degree heat. Along the way a man named Rani steps in just in time to scare off a pack of aggressive dogs and invites me to stop at his roadside shack. We share a melon and he tells me about walking all the way from Kurdistan to Greece.
Late in the afternoon I reach Lalish the holy city of the Yazidis but I am stopped at the checkpoint and denied entry for wearing shorts despite having my legs fully covered. Frustrated I continue to Shekhan where I spend the night in an empty apartment above a phone shop trying to buy a federal Iraq sim card. It is the hottest place I have ever slept a true sauna.
The next day I push on toward Mosul my only real chance to enter federal Iraq with a Kurdish visa. After some patience at the checkpoint I finally make it in. Mosul at last.

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Davide Travelli |

Rejected in Lalish. Allowed in Mosul federal IRAQ with Kurdish visa

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