Power Company Climbing
Movement Skills for Climbers | Hip Shapes
updated
Learn more about us ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com
Over 300 podcast episodes ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/podcasts-all
Check out my book The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
Power Company Climbing Academy ➡️ powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com
Subscribe to the channel ➡️ youtube.com/@PowerCompanyClimbing?sub_confirmation=1
CHAPTERS:
00:00 | Intro
00:34 | Information Overload
01:55 | Scary Example
02:45 | Why it Happened - Dot Collecting
03:15 | Why Connecting Dots is Important
03:34 | What Collecting Dots Looks Like
05:55 | This is a Relationship
07:15 | The Campus Board - Collected Dots
08:12 | Why They Might Be Wrong
08:48 | Connecting the Campus Board Dots
11:15 | Wrap Up
GET BONUS PODCAST EPISODES EVERY MONTH!
Patreon ➡️ patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Apple ➡️ podcastsconnect.apple.com/my-podcasts/show/the-power-company-climbing-podcast/bcd3841c-4012-44f8-a5a7-3b3925ca1d47
#climbing #climbingtraining #climbbetter #climbstronger
DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.
LINKS MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO:
What When How to Train Podcasts ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/podcast
Trip Prep Training Plans ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/trip-prep
Second Go Send Episode ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/7/9/episode-97-board-meetings-the-art-of-the-2nd-try-send
Nate's Ten Minute Takedown Video ➡️ youtube.com/watch?v=WtxZElPjzZ8
MORE FROM POWER COMPANY:
Learn more about us ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com
Over 300 podcast episodes ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/podcasts-all
Check out my book The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
Power Company Climbing Academy ➡️ powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com
Transcript and more ➡️ powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/tips-climbing-trips
Subscribe to the channel ➡️ youtube.com/@PowerCompanyClimbing?sub_confirmation=1
CHAPTERS:
00:00 | Intro
01:40 | Trips vs. Home Area Climbing Season
02:17 | Tip 1: Train and Practice for the Area
05:29 | Tip 2: Hit the Ground Running (Better Programming for Trips)
08:41 | Introduce Pressure into Your Training
12:13 | Outro
GET BONUS PODCAST EPISODES EVERY MONTH!
Patreon ➡️ patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Apple ➡️ podcastsconnect.apple.com/my-podcasts/show/the-power-company-climbing-podcast/bcd3841c-4012-44f8-a5a7-3b3925ca1d47
#climbingtraining #climbbetter #climbing
DISCLAIMER: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous. Anything you do is at your own risk and Power Company Climbing and our coaches takes no responsibility.
Looking to spend your summer sport climbing on gently overhanging crimps on beautiful limestone cliffs? Look no further than Ten Sleep, a picturesque canyon nestled high in the Bighorns of Wyoming offering tons of generously bolted lines up to grades of 14+.
Our very own coach Taylor Fragomeni started climbing in Ten Sleep more than a decade ago and it’s where she experienced many of her “climbing firsts”. She’s seen it grow from a once quieter spot for weekend warriors of the west into one of the busier destinations for climbers from all over to spend summer months.
We get into how to prepare for a trip to Ten Sleep, the best routes, overlooked classics, how to make the perfect Dirty Sally's ice cream concoction, and more.
Listen to over 300 more episodes at powercompanyclimbing.com/podcast
Hanging on pockets, using different teams of fingers, is a great way to prepare for the rigors of a pocketed limestone area like Wild Iris, but when possible, climbing on pockets is far superior, for many reasons. In this video, from our Wild Iris Trip Prep training program, Kris goes over some of the considerations when preparing for pocket climbing.
Looking for a sport climbing destination where you can climb comfortably from mid-Spring through mid-Fall? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high elevation, low humidity, and perfectly-pocketed limestone walls.
Wyoming local Leif Gasch has been climbing at Wild Iris for more than 25 years. While his life and travels have taken him all over, he and his wife Lindsay are happy to once again call Lander home.
Listen to over 300 more episodes at powercompanyclimbing.com/podcast
Many years ago when Paul was in a bit of a financial bind, Amy Skinner helped him out by buying every copy he had of his 1997 book Big Walls: Breakthroughs on the Free-Climbing Frontier.
While here, we asked Paul to sign those copies and we now have a limited number of these first edition signed copies for sale - with all proceeds going directly to Amy Skinner.
With every purchase of Big Walls, you are helping to support The Todd Skinner Legacy Fund (which you can learn more about below.) This book is iconic climber Paul Piana’s account of his and longtime climbing partner Todd Skinner's historic first free ascents of four of the greatest rock faces in North America: El Cap's Salathe Wall, the Direct North West Face of Half Dome, Wyoming's Mount Hooker, and the Great Canadian Knife. Beautiful full-color photos from Galen Rowell, Bill Hatcher and Beth Wald fill the pages of this coffee-table style hardcover book.
powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/paul-piana
Planning a trip to Wild Iris? Check out our Wild Iris Trip Prep Plans at powercompanyclimbing.com/trip-prep
Planning a trip to Wild Iris? Check out our Wild Iris Trip Prep Plans at powercompanyclimbing.com/trip-prep
How can we all learn to try harder?
In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from climbers Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay, Troy Fauteux, Chris Sharma and more, as well as author Alex Hutchinson and Hall of Fame linebacker Ray Lewis about how we – the average athlete – can refocus our effort.
Find videos, citations, a full transcript, and more for this episode at powercompanyclimbing.com/remix-effort .
Music for this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.
Audio clips of Alex Hutchinson come from Press 1 for Nick and Modern Wisdom.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Hard things are hard. You just have to choose which way your sacrifice will go.
Listen to the full episode, REMIX: EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay, and More) on The Power Company Climbing Podcast at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/remix-effort
Or find it anywhere you get podcasts.
You can learn more about the course at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/coaching-for-mastery
It's easy to find information on how to make climbers stronger, but ideas about helping climbers become BETTER are more elusive.
Join coach Kris Hampton as he ties together the essential components of learning and growth, from the science of feedback to the art of building effective drills.
Kris believes that coaches are not simply instructors, but architects of effective practice and exploration. He built this course to help climbing coaches understand how to design a better practice environment for their athletes.
powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/the-shape-of-power
For only $48 you'll get:
-Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris.
-In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out.
-4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym.
-Downloadable Course Guide Ebook.
-Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials.
In this episode, Juliet and I unpack a recent reel she posted to Instagram, of a V10 gym boulder, that brought the trolls out. You can find the reel we discuss at instagram.com/reel/CVA2dk_MnW3
You can find Juliet on Instagram at instagram.com/juliet_amanda
You can find her online at julietamanda.com
Check out my conversation with Caroline Wickes, which we mention, at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2021/4/15/ep-201-caroline-wickes-eating-disorders-in-climbing
And my conversation about spray with Kerry Scott at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/7/27/episode-53-pride-or-spray-with-kerry-scott
Join our community forum at community.powercompanyclimbing.com
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
powercompanyclimbing.com
In this episode, Nate and I discuss grades, downgrading, egos, pressure, and how these two climbers handled the situation in an incredibly mature, progressive way. But is it the best way? Does it matter?
These are exactly the types of conversations our Patrons get more of. 2 extra episodes every month. You can become a patron at patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
This video is part of our Boulder Builder course, designed to help climbers learn to set better, more effective boulders on spray walls, home walls, and boards.
The course contains over 20 individual lessons and more than 25 case studies from inside the Machine Shop. In this video Kris uses the lessons discussed to build a limit boulder for himself.
Learn more and enroll at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
Use the code YOUTUBE for $10 off enrollment.
See the entire post at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/set-limit-boulders
The course contains over 20 individual lessons and more than 25 case studies from inside the Machine Shop. In this video Kris uses the lessons discussed to build a limit boulder for himself.
Learn more and enroll at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
Use the code YOUTUBE for $10 off enrollment.
See the entire post at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/set-limit-boulders
Learn more and see our training recommendations at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/wwhtt-newriver
0:00:00 | Intro
0:03:47 | What to Train
0:19:14 | When to Train
0:28:03 | How to Climb 5.11 in the NRG
0:35:29 | How to Climb 5.12 in the NRG
0:38:48 | Our Proven Training Plans
0:40:25 | How to Climb 5.13 in the NRG
0:49:23 | How to Climb 5.14 in the NRG
0:56:58 | Local Beta
1:09:15 | Favorite Routes
1:22:46 | Must Do Routes
1:28:39 | Overlooked Classics
1:34:27 | Favorite Rest Day Activity
1:36:18 | Wrap Up
Care for your skin. No excuses.
0:00 | Intro
0:39 | The Design
0:59 | How to Use the Finger File
3:15 | Cleaning
4:22 | Where to find the Finger File
powercompanyclimbing.com/finger-file
You can become a patron at patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
You can read Nate's blog post on this topic at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/walk-away
Learn more and get the downloads mentioned at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/wwhtt-redriver
Find the training plans mentioned at powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
0:00:00 | Intro
0:03:13 | What to Train
0:08:27 | When to Train
0:21:16 | How to Train for 5.11
0:23:25 | How to Train for 5.12
0:29:56 | How to Train for 5.13
0:40:00 | How to Train for 5.14
0:49:36 | Local Beta
1:00:16 | Our Favorite RRG Routes
1:02:27 | Must Do RRG Routes
1:07:08 | Overlooked Classics
1:09:46 | Favorite Rest Day Activity
1:14:58 | Wrap Up
00:00 | Intro
00:55 | Frustrated
02:40 | Session One
04:36 | Session Two
05:38 | Session Three
07:58 | Session Four
08:42 | Session Five
12:03 | Session Six
17:51 | Wrap Up
You can find us, our training plans, coaching services, and products at powercompanyclimbing.com
0:00 | Introduction
1:22 | Explaining the Features
3:08 | Choosing a Spot and Screwing them In
4:47 | Using the "Wing" feature
5:48 | Choosing your Set
6:33 | Diodes and Resistors
7:23 | Where to Find them
Inductors, our steep wall feet, come in 4 sizes based on popular wall angles. 10, 20, 45 and 60.
You can find them all, including Diodes and Resistors at powercompanyclimbing.com/holds
Learn more about how to train with us at powercompanyclimbing.com/learn-more
Learn more about how to train with us at powercompanyclimbing.com/learn-more
00:00 | Intro
02:50 | Have a Plan (and a backup plan)
16:22 | Have your Warmups Dialed
24:50 | Get to the Point (FOLLOW the plan)
30:24 | The Break that isn't a Break (Don't Hold Back)
32:17 | Eliminate Distractions
42:09 | Set a Time Limit
52:10 | Recap
53:58 | Outro
Check out the new tees, tanks, and crops at powercompanyclimbing.com/apparel
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
00:00 | Intro and the continuum
01:14 | What is contact strength?
02:09 | What does the research say?
04:06 | The relationship between force and velocity
06:25 | Start of the continuum of exercises
06:43 | Velocity No Hang
08:53 | Velocity Hang
11:42 | Grip Specific Velocity Hang
13:13 | Campus Board Jump and Latch
14:50 | Grip Specific Jump and Latch
16:55 | Campus Ladder Variations
18:24 | Small Rung Ladders
18:48 | Foot-On Small Rung Ladders
19:20 | Power Strips
20:17 | 1-3-Max-Match
21:07 | Boulder Campus
22:17 | Indoor Climbing
23:22 | Outdoor Climbing
24:15 | Wrap Up
powercompanyclimbing.com
podbean.com/eau/pb-rrver-fe1ad3
Hopefully, for most of us, 2020 was a year that showed us we need to be more cognizant of the language we use and the effects that it has. That shouldn't end with 2021. In this episode, Nate and I discuss the most popular terms in climbing that we aren't fans of.
I'm a firm believer in the power of words. Intention and context are important, but equally important is how something is generally received. If I can help or allow people to try harder, feel more comfortable, and feel less excluded just by changing the use of a word - particularly a word that could easily be replaced like most terms in this sport - then I can't imagine why I wouldn't do it.
00:00 | Intro
01:05 | What's the ideal wall angle for training?
06:58 | How to maintain good footwork and body awareness while climbing only on steep angles.
11:39 | How to get the most from a vertical wall.
15:58 | Avoiding overuse injuries and staying healthy while getting older.
You can find Zach online at 42northbouldering.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/42northbouldering
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing
You can check out Boulder Builder and some of it's free modules at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
Find our foothold line at powercompanyclimbing.com/holds
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
00:00 | Intro
00:59 | How often do you repeat old projects once sent?
11:38 | Is it worth having a campus board on a 40 degree wall?
15:26 | Workout routines on a home wall for warmup/drills/limit.
19:11 | Motivation when you set and climb solo.
24:10 | Setting simulators for outdoor projects.
27:38 | How to force specific movement.
You can find Zach online at https://www.42northbouldering.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/42northbouldering
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing
You can check out Boulder Builder and some of it's free modules at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
Find our foothold line at powercompanyclimbing.com/holds
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
00:00 | Intro
00:50 | What is Boulder Builder?
04:00 | How do you set boulders for specific movement drills?
09:27 | Determining Rough Grades on a Spray Wall
18:58 | The Benefit of Bunchy Moves Instead of Just Going Big
27:10 | How to Set Boulders that Don't Suck Without External Input, Setting Outside Your Style, and Calling Yourself Out on Repetitive Setting.
You can find Zach online at 42northbouldering.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/42northbouldering
You can find us at powercompanyclimbing.com and on Instagram at instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing
You can check out Boulder Builder and some of it's free modules at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss marking and keeping track of problems, the value of old resin grips, volumes on a home wall, symmetric walls, and setting limit boulders.
NOTE: We mention the Eat Spray Love app, but are aware that it's currently having some issues on iPhone. There are lots of apps out there now - we're currently switching over to Retro Flash.
00:00 | Intro
03:06 | Keeping track of problems.
08:37 | Old resin grips.
14:22 | Volumes on home walls. Yes or no?
17:57 | Opinions on symmetrical spray walls
20:40 | How to set Limit Boulders
You can find our new Boulder Builder course at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
You can find Zach on Instagram at instagram.com/42northbouldering
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we setting a spray wall, hold density and placement, training endurance on a home wall, and how to build a library of problems that are effective for your training.
00:00 | Intro
01:00 | How to set a spray wall.
12:36 | Training endurance on a home wall.
21:05 | How to build a library of good boulders that challenge you.
You can find our new Boulder Builder course at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
You can find Zach on Instagram at instagram.com/42northbouldering
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
You can learn more about Boulder Builder at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
00:00 | Intro
01:00 | What is 42 North Bouldering?
08:18 | Climate control hacks for home walls.
15:14 | What's your ideal wall? Spray wall or board?
23:51 | Warming up on a steep wall with mostly bad holds.
27:12 | How to get a variety of holds.
29:55 | Using big holds on small walls.
33:58 | Jibs Only vs. No Heelhooking on spray walls or home walls.
36:32 | Avoiding overuse when you have a home wall and open schedule.
In this video Kris looks at variations to two different warmups - creating 8 warmups of varying difficulty, from easiest to upper warmup.
This video is from a free module in our new course, Boulder Builder, dedicated to helping home wall users, and spray wall and board climbers learn to better make up creative and effective problems.
You can learn more about it at powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/boulder-builder
podbean.com/eau/pb-mj88d-f709ca
Taylor Fragomeni is a routesetter, coach, and all around genuine human. We met in Bozeman, MT at Spire, where she was the head setter and youth team coach. I was impressed by her place in the community as well as her approach to coaching, and we've been in contact since. We sat down at my house while Taylor was traveling from Bozeman to St. George for her new job at Contact Climbing to talk being female in the routesetting industry and lessons that she's taken from routesetting into coaching.
You can find Taylor on Instagram at instagram.com/holistic_climber
You can work with her through holisticclimber.com
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
podbean.com/eau/pb-papfu-f66245
I might impart wisdom, or I might cut your head off. That's really up to you.
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
Ra (V10), The Land of Oz, Wyoming
podbean.com/eau/pb-d9gkm-f45f93
The title says it all. We do it too much. We blame the routesetters for our own failings, our own shortcomings, our own lack of commitment, our own destructive ego. It's not their fault. Here's why.
You can see the blogpost referenced in the episode at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/1/14/rock-climbs-make-terrible-gym-problems
You can find the Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
Keep the show sponsor free.
Help us continue to do in person interviews.
Keep this thing running - since Jan 1, 2016.
podbean.com/eau/pb-w6ehc-f2dd10
Eric Jerome loves lists. All kinds of them. Lucky for us, he also happens to be a brutally strong boulderer with a penchant for nerding out about all things bouldering.
I sat down with Eric and special guest Max Zolotukhin (one of the few people with a nerd level to rival Eric’s) and did my best to hold my own in one of the nerdiest conversations this podcast has ever hosted. Turns out, we only got about 1/3rd of the way through what we needed to. Hopefully at some point I’ll get these two to sit down again for more in depth examination of the most subjective objective list ever created.
You can find the Top 100 List, complete with videos, at powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/top-100-boulders-us
You can find Eric on Instagram at instagram.com/eric.jerome
Check out the Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanyclimbing
Uprising Resources at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/uprising-resources
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.


