Name: Youll understand everything about Atkinson, Miller and Otto cycle engines after watching this video @d4a
Uploaded: 2026-09-23T08:17:00-05:00
Duration: 8 min 17 s
Description: Youll understand everything about Atkinson, Miller and Otto cycle engines after watching this video

Youll understand everything about Atkinson, Miller and Otto cycle engines after watching this video

driving 4 answers 2026-09-23 | Youll understand everything about Atkinson, Miller and Otto cycle engines after watching this video

4T or 2T, which one do you prefer? #2stroke #engine #honda #ktm #suzuki #4stroke #enduro #d4a

driving 4 answers 2022-12-04 | ...

The Only Video Youll Ever Need to Watch to Know how 4 Stroke and 2 Stroke Engines Work and Differ

driving 4 answers 2022-12-04 | I have given it my all to try an pack as much information as humanly possible and present them in a simple, coherent and understandable manner with the goal of creating what is the only video anyone needs to watch to learn how a four stroke and a two stroke engine work. The video also covers the differences, benefits and drawbacks of 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines and also answers the question of why the four stroke ultimately prevailed over the two stroke in most applications despite being larger, heavier, more expensive and more complex.

Let's start with the four stroke. Why is it called a four stroke? It's because the four stroke engine needs four strokes to complete one combustion cycle. Every time the piston moves from top to bottom............. or vice versa............... that's one stroke. One stroke of the piston equals 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation.
Now the four strokes are: intake... compression..... combustion..... and exhaust
During the intake stroke the piston travels from top to bottom, which are also known as top dead center and bottom dead center. As the piston does this it creates an empty space or vacuum inside the cylinder. This newly created void is essentially a brief absensce of air, and because we have an abscence of air we also have an abscence of air pressure. In other words we have low air pressure inside the cylinder and atmospheric air pressure outside the cylinder. This air pressure difference cannot continue to exist and air naturally seeks to equalize pressure everywhere, and so air together with fuel from the outside rushes into the cylinder and fills it with a fresh air-fuel mixture.

Although cobmustion inside an engine is often described as a bang or explosion, that isn't what's actually happening. An explosion is detonation, which is a rapid uncontrolled process. In contrast to thist, combustion is deflagration, which is a much slower, more even and controlled process.

Combustion spreads out evently outward from the spark plug though heat transfer. The small portion of air fuel mixture initially ingited by the spark plug heats up and ignites the next layer of the air fuel mixture until all of the air fuel mixture is burned.
As the combustion flame front spreads it rapidly raises the tempreature and pressure inside the cylinder. Because the cylinder is sealed this pressure has nowhere else to go so it ends up pushing the piston down the cylinder with great strength....... This is our combustion stroke and of the four strokes this is the only one that actually generates power and it does so by converting the energy released by combustion into motion of the piston which then turns the crankshaft and ultimately the wheels.

By the time the piston reaches bottom dead center again all the air fuel mixture has been burned and we now have ehxuast gas, or the remains of combustion inside the cylinder.

Now in the case of the two stroke we have a cylinder head together with the valve cover whereas in the four stroke we really have just a cylinder cover or cap. There are zero moving parts in the 2 stroke head. No valves, no chains, no cams, no springs and therefore less weight, less complexity, less cost and less potential for failure.

Each time the 2 stroke piston is at top dead center a combustion event occurs. This also explains the name „two stroke“. The engine only needs two piston strokes to complete its combustion cycle. In other words each 360 degrees or one full engine revolution results in a combustion event. Whereas in a four stroke combustion occurs only every other time the piston reaches top dead center, combustion occurs only every 720 degrees of engine rotation. This means that the two stroke produces twice as many combustion events or power pulses for the same rpm, which means that, at least in theory, the two stroke engine can make twice as much power from the same displacement compared to a four stroke.

The other important thing we can note is that the strokes are very clearly defined and separated in a four stroke. Each completed stroke of the piston marks the beggining of one and the end of another stroke of the combustion cycle. But the two stroke sort of lumps the strokes together, they overlap and occur simultanously. The two stroke is actually multi-tasking which enables it to squeeze more action into the same time-frame. But as with everything, there is a price to be paid.

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#d4a #2stroke #4stroke

00:00 4 stroke combustion cycle
08:02 2 stroke combustion cycle
13:24 Reed valve
15:02 Lubrication
21:12 Compression ratio
23:41 VVT & Power valves
27:18 Direct Injection

Triumph T-Plane Engine Explained and Compared with Yamahas CP3 Crossplane Inline 3 engine

driving 4 answers 2022-11-20 | Secondary balance: youtu.be/TQlyS2rw-sk

The inline three is the new inline four. In the last few years we have seen this humble engine configuration become ever more widespread. A 1.0 liter inline three together with a turbocharger has replaced 1.6 or even 2.0 liter inline fours on many cars. An inline three has less cylinders therefore less friction and more efficiency. It’s also of course cheaper to manufacture and easier to package due to the reduced overall length. But when it comes to motorcycles an inline three of course isn’t considered downsizing, seeing that motorcycles on average have less cylinders than cars. Instead inline threes are a mix of luxury and oddity in the motorcycle word, and while there have been some very impressive and iconic motorcycles over the years, the configuration remains uncommon.

Now, one of the companies that has definitely done their part when it comes to contributing to increasing the percentage of inline threes is Triumph and in today’s video we will see how their T-plane inline 3 engine (Triumph Tiger 900 and Tiger 1200) abandons decades of established design logic to try and create an engine with a split personality, and we will also see how the T-plane compares to other inline three engines including Yamaha's “crossplane” inline three (aka CP3) engine (MT-09, Tracer, XSR900)

If we take a circle which is 360 degrees and divide it by three we will of course get 120. And this the crankshaft configuration that pretty much all inline three cylinder engines employ. We have the crank pins 120 degrees apart from each other which means that we have a piston reaching top dead center every 120 degrees of engine rotation. The result is of course an even firing interval. Now in a four stroke engine we need 720 degrees to complete a full combustion cycle. 180 for intake, 180 for compression, 180 for combustion and 180 for exhaust. To get the firing interval we simply divide 720 by the number of cylinders. The result is 240 and this tells us that the inline three engine fires every 240 degrees of engine rotation.

When we sum everything up the traditional inline three is a humble engine but it’s a good deal. It’s overall less smooth than an inline four thanks to a gap between power pulses and worse primary balance but it makes up for it by being more cost effective, more compact and more efficient.

But despite this Triumph rejected the traditional good deal offered by the inline three and chose to up-end the logic of this engine.

Instead of having of all the crank pins evenly spaced out and separated by 120 degrees they separated them by 90 degrees creating a configuration which looks like the letter T when viewed from the nose of the crankshaft – hence the name T-plane crankshaft.
Of course having the crank pins 90 degrees apart means that our even firing interval goes out the window. Instead of firing every 240 degrees of engine rotation the t-plane has an uneven firing interval where we fire cylinder 1 rotate 180 degrees and then fire cylinder 3 after which we rotate 270 degrees to fire cylinder 2 and then again 270 degrees to fire cylinder 1 again. So our firing interval is 180 270 270 and our firing order is 1 – 3 – 2.
So why would Triumph chose to take an engine that is barely smooth enough and make it less smooth by employing an uneven firing interval?
Well, there are two main reasons behind this. The first one is that an uneven firing interval creates a very distinguished sound character which sets the motorcycle apart from competitors.

A specific sound gives the engine a unique character and definitely helps sales. It definitely worked for Yamaha and their crossplane inline four which sounds completely different from any other mass produced inline four.
In fact the marketing worked so well for Yamaha that they tried to forcefully trickle down the word crossplane into their engine offerings with fewer cylinders, which is why their inline two and inline three cylinders are called CP2 and CP3….the cp being crossplane.
Now I completely understand the need for marketing, brand identity and so on but Yamaha’s CP3 engine is just a conventional inline 3 cylinder engine and it has the same crankshaft configuration as any other inline three. 120 degrees apart for the crank pins and an even firing interval.
Calling an inline four crossplane definitely makes sense because all the other inline fours are flatplane. All the crank pins lie in one single plane. But the inline three configuration is naturally crossplane, that’s at the core of the engine’s design. All the other inline 3 on the market are crossplane just like the CP3.

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#d4a #triumph #tplane

00:00 Conventional i3 firing interval
03:15 i3 Primary balance
07:13 i3 Secondary balance
09:09 T-plane interval and sound
17:26 T-plane primary and secondary

T-plane is live on the channel! #triumph #tiger #yamaha #crossplane #shorts #mt09 #tiger900

driving 4 answers 2022-11-20 | ...

Lets try this again. Bigger Brakes Cannot Stop You Faster - Bigger Disc Leverage and more

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Here's an interesting little piece of information. The amount of heat released by an average car during a single braking instance from a speed of 90 km/h is enough to boil two liters of water in just three seconds. All stock systems on all cars today are capable of doing this at least 4-5 times before brake fade starts occurring. This means that you can accelerate from 0 to 90 panic brake to a stop then accelerate to 90 again panic brake again and repeat this cycle at least 4 times before the slightest amount of brake fade can be measured. And even once brake fade starts it will be small and gradual and getting your stock brakes to fade to a point where they can't lock up the wheels and trigger ABS is next to impossible. This means that driving on the street cannot overpower the stock braking system. In fact if you ever need multiple panic brakes in a row while driving on public roads than there's something very wrong with your driving.

A lack of braking force does not exist on vehicles. Issue number two is that increasing braking force further cannot reduce your stopping distance.
And this is because your tires are the only thing on your car touching the ground...they are the only point of contact between your vehicle and the road surface. Once your overpower the grip that your tires provide there is nothing else left to overpower. Once the tire locks up and starts sliding increasing the brake force further will achieve nothing. Increasing the brake force via increased leverage or increased clamping force cannot increase the grip of the tires.

Increasing braking force further cannot reduce your stopping distance. And this is because we already have more than enough braking force to lock up the wheels. The comments on my previous video is make it obvious that many people associate brakes primarily with friction and torque....but a much better approach would be to perceive brakes as heat sinks. This is what they do. They convert the motion of the car or kinetic energy into heat and then dissipate this heat into the surrounding air.

Now we're going to compare three different cars to illustrate the extent to which modern cars really don't have an issue with braking.

The first one is the Mclaren Senna which is an 800 horsepower hypercar with absolutely amazing brakes state of the art carbon brakes. It has 390mm discs and 6 piston fixed calipers in the front. It gets from 0 to 100km/h in 2.6 seconds. The second car is the Mazda MX-5 ND has 280mm disc brakes and single piston floating calipers in the front. The 2.0 liter model gets from 0 – 100 km/h in just under 7 seconds. The third car is my very own 2009 Toyota Aygo has 247mm discs and single piston floating calipers in the front. It gets from 0-100 km/h in 14.2 seconds.

So as you can see we have staggering differences in brake systems and acceleration times. But not so much when it comes to braking distances. The Senna manages to come to a stop from a speed of 100kmh in 30 meters. The ND MX-5 manages 33.8 meters. I did a little test with the Aygo and did 10 panic brakes from 100 km/h and I managed an average of 35 meters.
So the McLaren Senna has 57% larger brake discs than the Aygo and has six times the number of caliper pistons. It is also 446% faster from 0 to 60 than the Aygo but it is only 16 % faster from 60 to 0.

So why is this the case? Why doesn't a million dollar hyper car dramatically outbreak a cheap little city car? The reason is that technology has long since reached the sensible limit of braking force.

Getting to a stop from 100 km/h in 35 meters takes less than 3 seconds and this in turn exposes you to forces of nearly 1G. Which is the limit of what the average driver can sustain on their body and still retain full control of their car.

Engineers are more than capable of making vehicles with ridiculous stopping distances. For example the F2004 which is Ferrari's formula 1 car from the 2004 season can come to a stop from 100km/h in just 16 meters. That's more than 2Gs of force. Formula 1 drivers are highly trained athletes capable of taking this load easily. On the other hand 2Gs would make many average drivers loose control of their vehicle. In fact F1 cars can generate as high as 5Gs of force when braking hard from high speeds. That's the sort of deceleration that can make some people pass out.

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#d4a #bbk #brakes

Two kinds of inline four engines #yamaha #r1 #engineering #cars #d4a #honda #car #sportbike #shorts

driving 4 answers 2022-11-02 | ...

Full video on the channel #d4a #bigbrakes #brembo #engineering #car #trackday #tuning

driving 4 answers 2022-10-23 | ...

Why Big Brakes Wont Stop You Faster but Wider Tires Will - Friction and Surface Area Explained

driving 4 answers 2022-10-23 | Brake the bank: amzn.to/3TLiqnj
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If you have ever considered upgrading your brakes to larger ones and did a bit of research online you have probably found out that, contrary to intuition, bigger brakes won't reduce your braking distance. On the other hand we all know that upgrading to wider tires can improve both your cornering and braking. So the underlying question we're answering today is why does surface area matter with tires but not with brakes.

If this is your first time hearing it than you might be surprised to learn that upgrading from stock brakes and calipers to larger brakes and calipers will not reduce your braking distance. This is surprising because intuition tells us that if we increase the surface area of both the brake and caliper than we increase the amount of friction which should improve braking and stop the car faster.

But, physics disagrees with intuition and physics says this: F = μN
Yes, it's a formula but don't get scared it's the simplest formula there is. And it tells us that F, which is frictional force equals the coefficient of friction which mu or mew different people pronounce it differently, it's a Greek letter times the normal force.

So let's explain this a bit. Frictional force is obviously the amount of friction. The higher the frictional force the more friction we need to overcome and the harder it will be to move a certain object. The coefficient of friction is a constant and it depends on the nature of the material and surface roughness. For example sandpaper has a much higher coefficient of friction than glass. Basically the coefficient of friction tells us how friction-y a particular material is. Our normal force is the force acting on the object and pressing it down. In case of a stationary object that force will be the weight of the object pressing it against the surface.
As you can see there's no surface area in the formula. Physics doesn't care if the object is on it's side or on it's face. Even if the difference in surface area is extreme the frictional force is the same because the weight of the object is the same and the material is the same no matter how we place the object.

Although we increase the number of hills facing each other when we increase the surface area we are also distributing the same force over a larger surface area which means that the hills interlock less, they touch each other less. This is why stabbing yourself with a needle is far more painful than doing the same thing with let's say a bottle. You may apply the exact same force in both scenarios but in the case of the needle all the force is concentrated on an extremely small surface area leading to a much higher pressure. In case of the bottle the force gets distributed over a larger area leading to reduced pressure. The same thing happens with our plank. Friction stays the same because we're offsetting the increased number of peaks with reduced pressure on the peaks since we're distributing the same force over a greater surface area.

Ok but then but why do all the fancy sports cars have giant brakes which are obviously so much larger than the brakes on most other cars? The answer is heat or more accurately the prevention of brake overheating.
If you observe brakes more closely you will see that almost everything has to do with heat management. For example brakes on cars are tucked in inside the wheels and the body of the car which means that they receive far less airflow than brakes on motorcycles which are sitting directly in the air stream. This is why car brakes are ventilated and motorcycle brakes are not. Ventilation works to try and flush out as much heat out of the brake system as possible. Why is heat such a problem with brakes? Because it leads to brake fade. When brakes overheat a thin layer of gas forms on the surface and this leads to reduced friction and braking performance otherwise known as brake fade.

So this formula applies to brakes but it does not apply to tires. Many tests have been done over the years and have proven that wider and larger tires improve braking and cornering performance. The answer is surprisingly obvious. Brakes are solid and rigid.....tires are elastic. They're made from rubber after all. Brakes are not designed to deform or change shape under normal operation. Tires deform and change shape all the time. The loads applied on brake pads and rotors are simple – the brake pad only moves in one direction. The loads applied on tires are very complex and ever-changing

A special thank you to my patrons:
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#d4a #bigbrakes #tires

Adventure time cmon grab your friends... @d4a #adventure #advrider #honda #africatwin #crf300l

driving 4 answers 2022-10-16 | ...

Full video on the channel #ducati #boxer #honda #4age #4g63 #engine #engineering #d4a #subaru

driving 4 answers 2022-10-12 | ...

Deep Dive: Inline 4 vs. V4 vs. Boxer 4 - Whats the Difference? Engine Balance Explained in Detail

driving 4 answers 2022-10-09 | In today's video we're doing a very in-depth exploration and comparison of the inline 4, the v4 and the boxer 4 engine. We're exploring and comparing everything from primary and secondary engine balance to firing intervals and rocking couples. We will also see how a boxer 4 is different from a flat non-boxer engine in terms of anatomy and balance. But our deep dive is structured and gradual instead of overwhelming so that you can enjoy the video regardless of your background or prior knowledge. There's also skip points included so that viewers familiar with my engine balance series don't have to watch things that have already been explained in previous videos.

As you might already know, primary engine balance has to do with the mass and thus the inertia of the piston when it changes direction. Now to have an engine with good primary balance we have to balance out the forces associated with the piston's inertia.

The inline four achieves a perfect primary balance by balancing it out piston inertial forces using the inertial forces of other pistons. So when two pistons go up, two pistons go down. This means we have two forces pointing up and two forces pointing down and so they cancel each other out leading to an elimination of primary vibrations.

The boxer 4 also achieves perfect primary balance by using piston masses to balance out other piston masses, it just does it a bit differently compared to the inline four. Instead of having all the pistons in one line, the boxer four splits them into two different banks which are directly opposed to each other which means that the pistons are also opposed to each other

The v4 has perfect primary balance too, but it doesn't rely on piston masses to cancel out other piston masses. Instead it uses the crankshaft counterweight to cancel out the mass of a piston. The reason why a V4 engine can do this is precisely because it's a V engine. If it weren't a V engine than the crank counterweight couldn't be used for this purpose.

The V4 is a lot more „modular“ compared to inline four and boxer four engines. In fact you could say that inline four and boxer four engines are in a way all the same in terms of their basic anatomy. It's modular in the sense that it's essentially two V-twin engines stuck together. This allows you to have any angle between the two crank pins. The angle can be zero like in the Honda RC30, or 180 degrees like in the Honda VFR800, or 70 degrees like in the Ducati Panigale V4. You can also play around with the degree between the cylinder banks. You can go 90 degrees like Ducati, or 70 degrees like the Yamaha Vmax or 65 degrees like the Aprilia RSV4. But no matter what you do, because of the V configuration anatomy, you can't have two pistons be at top dead center at the same time if you put two connecting rods on one crank pin. This means that you're always going to have an uneven firing interval.

Now in the case of the inline four 4 the firing interval is regular or even....but the downside to this is that it can't be anything else. In the case of the v4 the firing interval may always be uneven, but the upside is that we can play with it and create different firing intervals resulting in different engine character, sound and power delivery which can be tailored to match different applications.

When it comes to secondary balance the inline four obviously has the most problems because all the forces point upwards all the time leading to noticeable secondary vibrations. But there's good news and there's bad news when it comes to secondary balance. The good news is that the magnitude is only about one quarter that of primary balance but the bad news is that secondary vibrations occur twice per engine revolution compared to only once for primary vibrations.

The v4 and the boxer 4 have better secondary balance than the inline four but it's still not perfect. In the v4 the pistons don't oppose each other so the secondary forces can't cancel out, but they also can't stack up like in the inline four. The separation between the two bank angles means that the secondary forces from each piston merge into a single resultant force. The magnitude is about 1.4 times that of a single cylinder, and then playing with the offset between the crank pins the v4 essentially "dilutes" secondary vibrations which means that it doesn't need a balance shaft.

Now the boxer 4 seems like it might have a perfect secondary balance because we have forces of equal magnitude but opposite direction. But due to the offset between cylinders the boxer four has a secondary rocking couple. But at least it's better than a flat 4 engine which has a massive primary rocking couple.

A special thank you to my patrons:
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Daniel Morgan
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Jack H
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Nelson

00:00 Primary balance
04:53 Firing interval
10:59 Secondary balance
15:02 Rocking couples
20:20 Which is best?

#d4a #enginebalance

New video is live on the channel! #enginebalance #engine #boxer

driving 4 answers 2022-10-09 | ...

New video live on the channel #boostschool #d4a #engine #turbo #twinturbo

driving 4 answers 2022-09-25 | ...

Parallel vs. Sequential vs. Compound - Twin Turbo systems explained - Boost School #11

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In today's episode we're talking about twin turbo setups and we will be doing a detailed explanation and comparison of three different setups. Parallel, sequential and compound twin turbo setups. No, sequential and compound turbo are not the same thing and I will explain how the two differ.

But first, the basics. Why would you ever use two turbos over one? After all a single turbo does the job just fine. It hooks up to the exhaust manifold where it relies on the heat energy of the engine's exhaust to spin up the turbine wheel which is directly connect to the compressor wheel which suck in air compresses it and sends it into the engine to be burned together with the fuel.
But as with most things in life, there's a compromise and that's the turbo size choice. Naturally you would assume that a larger turbo makes more power than a smaller turbo, all other things being equal, and you would be correct. But a larger turbo also needs more heat energy to be spooled up to generate it's maximum boost.

Although it may sound weird a parallel twin turbo setup is in reality very similar to a single turbo setup, just with twice the turbos. You will find parallel turbo setups most often on v6 and v8 engines. A classic and well known example is the twin turbo V6 engine on the Nissan GTR R35.
A parallel turbo features two turbocharger of equal size operating completely independently. This means that each is hooked up to a separate exhaust manifold and each has it's own waste-gate. Exhaust gasses are not diverted from one turbo to the other in any scenario. Each turbo also has it's own intake piping. The intake piping from the two turbos may join before or after the intercooler or it may not join at all, instead each turbo may be feeding a separate intake manifold.
Now when it comes to V6 and V8 engines a parallel setup has many benefits. The first benefit is that dramatically simplified and reduced exhaust piping.

So then why are all the 2jz, RB, LS and other engines which are often used for making big power all running big single turbos and not twin turbos? Well the main reason behind this is that OEMs have incredible R&D capabilities at their disposal and prioritize driveability whereas car enthusiasts do not. What I'm trying to say is that the big single is the easiest setup to get right when chasing big power.

However, twin turbo setups still face the same compromise of the single turbo. While they ease packaging costs and help preserve responsiveness and efficiency by allowing shorter and simpler piping they ultimately can't escape the turbo size choice compromise, they're just splitting it in half.

But a sequential twin turbo setup promises to achieve both, a very low boost threshold and great low rpm performance together with power at the top. Originally invented for the Porsche 959 to get rid of the sudden onslaught of boost present in previous Porsche Turbo models the sequential system gets rid of the compromise by spooling up the turbos in sequence, so one after the other instead of both at the same time.
A common misconception is that a sequential turbo system consists of one small and one large turbo. This doesn't have to be the case and a sequential turbo system can feature two turbos of the same size. What makes a system sequential is not the size of the turbos, but rather the fact that they are spooled and after the other and not at the same time as in the parallel system.

Now this is where all the confusion begins because the terms compound and sequential are often used interchangeably and they're really not interchangeable because not every sequential system is compound but every compound system is sequential.
The way to differentiate between the two is this. In a system that is only sequential we have one turbo spooled before the other but both turbos feed into the intake manifold of the engine. In a sequential compound system one turbo is spooled before the other but one turbo also feeds into the other turbo, and one turbo is always larger than the other. Proper compounding cannot be achieved with two turbos of the same size.

So how does the system work? Well we have two turbos, one small and one large different people will call different turbos primary and secondary so you can largely ignore that distinction. What you have to remember is that the smaller turbo is always the high pressure turbo and the large turbo is always the low pressure turbo and the large turbo always feeds into the smaller turbo.

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#d4a #boostschool #twinturbo

00:00 The problem with singles
03:06 Parallel
09:39 Sequential
15:00 Compound

The Unseen Achievement of Hondas Oval Piston Engine - A different perspective on the Honda NR story

driving 4 answers 2022-09-11 | Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/DRIVING4ANSWERS and enter promo code DRIVING4ANSWERS for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE + Antivirus for the whole 27 months!

Which shape is the best shape for sealing something? And it doesn't matter what you're sealing; water, air, combustion, coolant, oil.
The answer is: a circle. Why? Because it's the simplest and most uniform shape of all. Wherever sealing is important chances are very high that you will find a circular shape. So here's another question for you: if I know that a circle is best for sealing than Honda's engineers certainly know it too. So why did Honda invest an absolutely incredible amount of time, money and human resources into trying to reinvent the wheel by developing an oval piston engine? To properly answer that question we need to process a cocktail of history, mechanics and human persistence.

The year is 1960 and Honda has started a very ambitious campaign to dominate the world of motorcycle racing. They soon started winning races left and right with their motorcycles equipped with four stroke engines. But by the mid-sixties most manufacturers and racing teams jumped on the band-wagon of switching to two stroke engines for their racing efforts.

But despite the two stroke trend Honda remained faithful to four stroke engines. Founder Soichiro Honda is famous for disliking two strokes engines, a sentiment he spread throughout the company. But Honda did more than remained faithful to four strokes, they kept trailblazing and pushing forward in the field and by 1966 they did what no other manufacturer managed to do before, and that is to score podiums in every of the five different classes. The RC166 perhaps best exemplifies how far Honda managed to push the four stroke. Inline six, four cams, 24 valves all miniaturized to 250cc in an age before CAD and CNC.

So in 1966 Honda proved their point. Their four stroke engines featured clockwork precision, they were amazing and perhaps most importantly, they could outperform two stroke engines. So with nothing left to prove in 1967 Honda decided to retire from motorcycle grand prix racing and instead focus on the development of mass-produced cars. Instead of chasing power and speed Honda started chasing economy and environmental responsibility. In 1973 Honda introduced the CVCC-equipped Civic model, becoming the first carmaker to offer a model in full compliance with the U.S. Clean Air Act passed by the U.S. Congress.

But soon Honda would see that without racing there is no drive to create new and competitive technology to beat the competition. Without racing there is no suitable environment where you can test and prove these new technologies. By 1977 Honda had realized they would end up lagging behind other manufacturers in terms of technology and innovation, so they announced their return to the World Motorcycle Grand Prix.

But during Honda's absence, things had changed . Two stroke engines were now the norm in grand prix racing. Four strokes simply couldn't keep up anymore. Despite obvious advantages of the two stroke Honda decided to once again remain faithful to their four strokes and try to beat the competition on an uneven playing field right after coming out of a decade long hibernation.
So they quickly started putting together a large team of staff which was to work on the NR project. NR being „new racing“.
The team figured out that beating a two stroke with a four stroke of equal displacement meant that the four stroke needed to rev twice as high. Now to rev to ridiculous rpm you need to make it possible for the engine to take in and push out massive amounts of air very very quickly. But fortunately for Honda the world motorcycle grand prix rule book only said 500cc and 4 cylinders without explicitly defining what they meant by „cylinder“.

But Honda was crazy enough to pursue a non-cylindrical cylinder. So they came up with this: if the cylinder was oval instead of round than you could fit more valves into it and sustain the airflow needed to generate 23.000 rpm.
Of course an oval piston with an oval cylinder was something no one ever attempted before and thus Honda found itself in completely uncharted territory. Chasing the dream of a V4 with 4 oval pistons and 32 valves all packed into only 500cc.

"When I look back at it, I'm not sure if we were experimenting with cutting-edge technologies or obsessed with foolish ideas," are the words Toshimitsu Yoshimura, an engineer involved in the development of the NR500 oval piston engine.

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#d4a #ovalpiston #nr750

00:00 Why reinvent the wheel?
02:53 Pushing the four stroke further
08:55 Making the impossible possible
13:11 The limit of persistence
15:53 Failure is not the opposite of success

Beginner Friendly Step By Step Guide On How To Degree Camshafts + Lift, Duration and Lash Explained

driving 4 answers 2022-08-28 | Dial indicator with stand: amzn.to/3QEktIo
Degree wheel: amzn.to/3pjdc5e
Crankshaft adapter: amzn.to/3bTYvCw
Complete degreeing kit: amzn.to/3dt3Yk6

This video is a detailed, beginner friendly step by step guide on how to degree your camshafts on a double overhead cam engine.

The process of degreeing involves measuring various camshaft specs such as duration, lift, intake valve opening and intake valve closing, and then adjusting the camshaft to to its optimal position in relation to the crankshaft based on those specs with the goal of extracting maximum performance

Camshafts should be degreed if you have decked the head or the block as this can distort camshaft timing and reduce performance. Camshafts must be degreed if you have purchased aftermarket performance cams. Camshaft degreeing can help prevent assembly error and piston to valve contact

We will be doing the degreeing process on a Toyota 4AGE 16v engine. But the process is virtually identical on any other double overhead cam engine

As you can see our engine is pretty much bare and we have also removed the crankshaft pulley as well as the intake and exhaust. We will be rotating the engine a lot during the degreeing process so it’s mandatory that we remove the spark plugs first.

In order to degree the camshaft we of course need to access the camshaft, and to do that we need to remove the cam cover. I will be demonstrating the degreeing process on the intake cam only but the procedure is identical for both the intake and exhaust.

In order to properly perform the degreeing we will need a few special tools. The first one is a degree wheel. The second one is a dial indicator with an extension.
As you can see my indicator is equipped with a DIY extension. Although ready-made extensions of different lengths for dial indicators can be purchased in stores or online they are almost always useless for degreeing cams on DOHC engines.

An important note when it comes to dial indicators. Make sure to get a dial indicator that has enough measuring range. A dial indicator with 10mm of range will be suitable for most camshafts as most have between 7 and 10mm of lift.

The first thing we are going to do is attach the degree wheel. I’m fortunate enough that the hole in my degree wheel is smaller than my crankshaft but larger than my crankshaft pulley bolt as I can simply bolt the degree wheel directly onto my crankshaft. If this weren’t possible I would have to either purchase or make some sort of adapter.

Once the degree wheel is on we are going to find true top dead center, or the highest point of the piston’s travel. Although most engines have markings to indicate when the piston of cylinder 1 is at top dead center, these markings aren’t necessarily 100% accurate and they’re usually below the accuracy and resolution level needed for camshaft degreeing.

Now we’re going to be turning the engine while closely watching the dial indicator. When the needle starts moving it means that the piston has made contact with the tip of the extension. We’re looking for the point when the needle stops and changes direction.

Correctly placing the measuring tip onto the valve shim is by far the trickiest part of the cam degreeing procedure. This usually isn’t straightforward and a bit of trial and error is needed until the proper placement is achieved. The extension tip must not slide across the shim and it must not make contact with the camshaft lobe or the camshaft stem. If any of this occurs the readings will be inaccurate.
In order to achieve accurate readings the angle of the extension must be the same or at least close to the angle of the valve and the shim upon which it rests. Unfortunately this is impossible with a straight attachment because it results in contact between the attachment and the camshaft stem.
And this is where the welding stick DIY extension comes in. You can easily bend it a bit to achieve correct placement on the shim without contacting the camshaft stem.

Once we have achieved the correct placement we can proceed to measuring the cam specs.
We will first measure camshaft lift which determines how much the camshaft opens the valve and then we will measure camshaft duration in order to find out how long the camshaft keeps the valve open, or off its seat. Even if you know these values from your cam card it’s a good idea to verify them. It’s definitely a good idea to measure lift and duration and degree the cams in case you purchased an engine with unknown cam specs. By measuring lift and duration you can verify whether the cams are stock or aftermarket and see exactly how aggressive or mild the cams are and whether they are well matched to the rest of the engine.

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#d4a #camshaft #degreeing

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Can you spot the engine maker? Can you list all the specs? #engineering #engine #ice

driving 4 answers 2022-08-25 | ...

The Secrets Behind Car Maker Logos - Alfa Romeo, BMW, Ferrari, Mercedes Toyota + 22 more explained

driving 4 answers 2022-08-14 | Patreon: patreon.com/d4a
Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com

In this video we're talking about the hidden meaning and the amazing stories behind the logos of famous car maker brands. We're covering a total of 26 logos in alphabetical order. As this is a long video I split the logos into chapters so you can either pick the ones you're interested or easily pick up from where you left off if you don't have the time to watch the video in one go:

00:00 Alfa Romeo
02:53 Alpina
03:39 Audi
04:29 BMW
05:06 Buick
05:49 Cadillac
06:16 Citroen
07:22 De Tomaso
08:07 Ferrari
09:35 Hyundai
10:03 Koenigsegg
10:43 Maserati
11:06 Mazda
13:14 Mercedes
14:26 Mitsubishi
15:15 Nissan
16:31 Peugeot
17:13 Porsche
18:01 Rolls-Royce
19:57 Rover
20:49 Skoda
21:22 Subaru
22:28 Tesla
22:52 Toyota
23:38 Vauxhall + Opel
24:35 Volvo

I'm sure you know the stories behind some of these famous car maker logos but I bet you don't know them all and if you watch the video you'll learn why Alfa Romeo has an arab eating snake on it, why BMW's logo isn't a propeller despite their aircraft making past, what Ferrar has to do with Francesco Baracca, Italy's greatest fighter pilot. You'll also learn about Ahura Mazda, Mercedes Jellinek, NIhon SANgyo, Peugeot saws and coffee grinders and about all Dr Engineer honoris cause Ferdinand Porsche. You'll learn about the secret love affair behind Rolls-Royce's Spirit of Ecstacy and the Native American hidden in the Skoda logo. And did you know that Tesla's logo is a cat nose? That Toyota's logo hides a few genious details? That Volvo's logo is rolling iron and that Vauxhall come's from Falkes' hall?

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How To Replace Motorcycle Steering Bearings Without Special Tools

driving 4 answers 2022-07-31 | Tools for your bike: amzn.to/3J7kIcz
Patreon: patreon.com/d4a
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In today's video I'll be showing you how to replace motorcycle steering head bearings. These are the bearings that sit under your triple clamps and on your steering stem and connect your steering head to the steering tube in the frame of your motorcycle.

Over time and after thousands of miles or kilometers steering stem bearings can get worn and/or rusty and this will negatively impact your handling, if the bearings have deteriorated enough they can become a safety hazard.

I'll be showing you how to replace these bearings without the use of special tools. I'm doing it because where I live special tools needed for this job can't be rented. They can only be special ordered and their total cost can only be justified by professionals.

Before you decide to try and replace the steering head bearings make sure to verify that they are indeed faulty. Elevate your motorcycle and make sure it's stable. Steer your motorcycle slowly and gently. If your steering head bearings need replacing you will notice a particular spot where the steering head sort of „catches“ or snags a bit. This is the are where the bearing has worn grooves and the balls inside the bearing want to stay in this grooves.

In order to access the bearings we will need to remove the front forks. First we are going to unbolt and remove the front calipers and move them aside so they're not in the way. Next we're disconnecting the speedometer cable. After that we're going to unbolt the handlebar. Before you actually do this it's a good idea to make markings on the handlebar towers and the bar itself so that you can return the handlebar to the same position. Once this is done we are going to unbolt the forks from the triple clamps. Access to the lower triple clamp bolts is often poor if your motorcycle has fairings and rounding out these bolts can be very bad news. So it's often best to be safe and remove the fairings so that you can get proper access to the bolts and use a more suitable tool.

Since the forks are out you can use this opportunity in case you want to install something like rubber shock covers / fork covers. After that we can remove the large triple clamp nut on the upper clamp. Once the nut is off you can remove the top clamp. Underneath you will find the preload adjusting nut. If you don't have the special wrench you easily remove this using a hammer and screwdriver. Once the adjusting nut is off you can remove the dust seal and the top bearing, and pull out the lower triple clamp together with the steering stem.

We'll be replacing the bearings with tapered roller bearings. Rollers are what can be found on most modern bikes and they are usually a better and more durable choice because the larger surface area of the rollers is better at absorbing and distributing loads.

First we will remove the old bearing seats from the steering tube on the frame. Slowly and evenly knock them out from the opposite end using a long rod or similar tool.

Once the old seat is out, clean the area and install a new seat by slowly hammering it in using a socket that is just slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the new bearing seat. Repeat the same procedure on the lower bearing race.

Next we need to remove the bearing from the steering stem. This is often the trickiest part of the procedure when you don't have the special tools. Start with a sharp chisel and slowly hammer it into the gap between the triple clamp and the bearing. This should lift up the bearing slightly and allow you to deform it. In some cases you will be able to knock the bearing away and be done but sometimes this isn't possible and you will have to resort to an angle grinder to cut the bearing. Obviously be careful not to damage the steering stem.

Now we can install the new bearing. First install the new dust shield and make sure it's properly centered. Then install the bearing by gently hammering it down using a screwdriver to contact the inner race of the bearing. Never hammer the outer race in anyway, this will damage the bearing and you will have to get a new one.
Once the bearing is installed we can install install the lower clamp and stem from below. The upper bearing goes next. Don't forget to use the provided grease to grease the bearing. Once the bearing is in finish things off with the upper dust shield and adjusting nut. Final adjustments to the preload are best made once you first test ride the bike. At this stage just hand tighten the nut to the point where turning moving the lower triple clamp doesn't immediately loosen the nut.

Test to see how everything feels. The steering should move freely with the slightest of input. If it feels too tight, loosen then preload nut.

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#d4a

Logic Defying V5 Engine - Hondas RC211V Explained Like Never Before

driving 4 answers 2022-07-24 | Patreon: patreon.com/d4a
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Official patent: patents.google.com/patent/US6745730B2/en
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In 2002 Honda introduced the RC211V motorcycle to MotoGP, the highest level of motorcycle racing in the world. The bike was a response to the chaning rules of Moto GP and replaced Honda's previous contender, the iconic two stroke NSR500.

Now the big deal about the new bike is that it's engine was something that no one had ever seen before, a V5. I mean over the decades we have been conditioned into thinking that a V engine must have an even number of cylinders, V2, V4, V6, V8, V10, V12. And Logically it makas sense....we have two banks of cylinders and both banks have the same number of cylinders which means that neither bank is generating more force than the other bank leading to a well balanced engine.
The general public was so puzzled by the V5 engine, which has 3 cylinders in one bank and 2 cylinders in the other that soon rumors spread claiming that the bank with two cylinders had larger bores and larger pistons to restore balance. This of course wasn't the case, all pistons and bores are of the same size. But even to this day, many people believe that a V5 engine is impossible and would self-destruct in operation. However Honda proved this wasn't the case, not only did the engine NOT self-destruct, it revved continuously and reliably to 14.000 rpm, and it did it it's job so well that it helped Honda win three rider and four constructor world championships. In fact the bike won 48 out of 82 races, it won more than half of all the races it entered, which is an extremely impressive statistic for MotoGP and even more impressive for an engine that should self-destruct according to layman logic.

How do you make a V5 work? Well the answer is pretty simple....you make it work by building an unbalanced V4 and then using the extra piston to balance things out.
So how do you unbalance a V4? Well that's easy, you loose the 90 degree angle between the banks that allows the counterweights to keep things balanced. This why Honda gave their V5 an angle of 75.5 degrees between the two banks. The added bonus of this is that it makes the engine even more compact and allows the wheelbase of the motorcycle to be shorter which improves handling response.
But why exactly 75.5 degrees? Why not 80 or 70 or whatever else. Well the answer to that is that 75.5 is the point at which the piston of an internal combustion engine is at or near it's maximum velocity.

And why is this important? Well to understand that we have to observe the V5 engine in action. As you can see Honda's V5 is essentially a V4 with zero degrees offset between the two common crank pins, and an unpaired piston on a single crank pin between the two piston pairs. As we know the angle between the two banks is 75.5 degrees and the crank pin of the unpaired piston is offset by 104.5 degrees from the center-line of bank 1 when the engine is in this position. These angles result in the forces created by the engine canceling each other out. See video for actual detailed explanation with graphics.

One more final side-point just in case someone is wondering. No, the engine called V5 by Volkswagen does not work like the one we just discussed. As far as I know the V5 in Honda's RC211V is the only one of it's kind and it was never mass produced, it was made only to compete in Moto GP. What Volkswagen calls V5 isn't really a V5, a much more appropriate name for it would be VR5, in the same fashion as their VR6 engine. Honda's V5 is a true V engine with two cylinder heads and two sets of camshafts, cam gears, etc. Volkswagen V5 is just like a VR6 but with one cylinder less, meaning that we have only I believe only 15 degrees between the banks, one cylinder head, one set of cams etc. And just like the VR6 has balance very similar to an inline 6, so too does VW's „V5“ have very similar balance to an inline 5

A special thank you to my patrons:
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Daniel Morgan
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00:00 MotoGP champion
02:43 The role of the counterweight
04:37 The magic of a 90 degree V
07:00 Velocity and acceleration
10:42 Balancing using imbalances
15:20 Volkswagen "V5"

#d4a #v5 #enginebalance

Get Lost And You Shall Find What Youre Looking For

driving 4 answers 2022-07-10 | Just a little clumsy and unpolished video that I put together where I wanted to sum up some of thoughts and feelings that formed over a few little adventures I took during the last couple of months. Overall riding my second first bike, my little dual sport/ small adventure bike the Honda NX250 (Dominator) has been incredibly entertaining and eye opening. It turned out to be some much more than just learning to ride, instead it turned into a journey that's teaching me not just about the world around me, but about myself as well. Thanks for watching.

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#d4a #adventureriding

Please Stop Commenting How EVs Are Around The Corner And How ICE is Dead

driving 4 answers 2022-06-26 | Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/DRIVING4ANSWERS and enter promo code DRIVING4ANSWERS for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE + Antivirus for the whole 27 months!

I like reading the comments to my videos. I spend a minimum of one hour each day reading comments because I see them as a very valuable qualitative insight into what people think about my content, what they like or dislike and what they would like to see in the future. The comments section is also often a great source of video ideas.

But recently I am being driven out of the comments section because its getting frustrating to read the same type of comment over and over.

So today I'm doing this video which is a collective response to all these comments and a very simple and objective explanation of why EVs are not around the corner and why internal combustion is not dead and won't be dead any time soon.

Now before we begin I feel that it's very important that I say something first and that is that I am in no way against electric vehicles and that I do not believe that internal combustion is a permanent and future-proof solution to human mobility. What I do believe is that the challenges present in humanities future are substantial and extremely complex, however believing that an aggressive push for the electrification of mobility will resolve these challenges is incredibly short-sighted.

Refueling a combustion car to 100% takes between 2-7 minutes and gives you an average range of around 500km (310.6 miles). If the vehicle is a diesel the range is usually around 700km or more. At the extreme end of the scale we of course have combustion vehicles whose ranges easily exceed 1200km. Now according to the USA Federal Highway Administration - Department of Transportation the average american drives 14,263 miles or 22.954 kilometers. The average EU citizen drives 7021 miles or 11.300 km every year. Now if we take the average between USA and EU to be the global average this gives us 10642.224 miles or 17.127 km per year. Now let's forget our optimistic 2 minute gas station stop. Let's say that we spend 7 minutes at the gas station every time. The end result is that the average citizen of planet earth spends 239.8 minutes or 3.99 hours every year refueling the average combustion car.

Now the average current electric car adds around 3.5 miles or 5.6km of range for 1 minute of charging. But let's forget the average. Let's take this. A Porsche Taycan turbo. It costs around 150.000 $ or 160.000 EUR and while it definitely doesn't have an actual turbo it can add 14 miles or 22km of range for 1 minute of charging if you can find a level 3 charger.
This means that if you're an owner of a Taycan turbo that only charges on level three chargers you will spend 12.9 hours each year charging your Porsche. This means that if all of our cars somehow magically turned into Taycans and all of our gas stations magically turned into level three chargers we would still spend more than three times as much time recharging as refueling leading to large waiting lines on all the charging stations. Which means that we need more than three times as many level three charging stations as we currently have gas stations.

So charging stations won't work. Well there's an easy fix for that let's all charge at home. Well that's why we're here. Can you imagine every car here having a charging station for itself? Because that's what you need to guarantee that everyone can go to work tomorrow. And all of them have to work. All the time. Again imagine the amount of cables, labor and maintenance needed to make that happen for just this one single residential area alone. And there's millions of residential areas like this around the world. Getting them all equipped with charging stations is an even more massive undertaking than building three times more level three charging stations than gas stations.
Now I know what you're saying, charging times and ranges are improving all the time so all of these statistics don't matter. Yes, battery technology is advancing, but it's not doubling in capacity or charging times every year. It's improving a little at a time. And remember, we're basing our whole scenario on a very expensive luxury car . It will take some time for the taycan's specs to become the industry average. It took us almost a century to increase the average horsepower output of a car from 26hp in 1930 to 128hp in 2018. It also took us a century to build the infrastructure to support combustion cars. The roads, the workshops, the gas stations. Even something that's relatively simple in comparison such as increasing a usb stick's capacity from 8MBs to 256 GB took a decade. Big changes take time.

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#d4a #bev #ice

00:00 The comments
02:22 The logistics
10:59 The statistics
18:23 The pessimistic

Whos Got Better Fuel? Octane Ratings Explained and Mythbusted

driving 4 answers 2022-06-12 | So what is the octane rating of fuel? The octane rating of fuel is actually an indicator of just one single thing and that is the fuel’s ability to resist detonation or knock. That’s it. The octane number has nothing to do with the energy content of fuel nor it’s impact on the power output of the engine.
The octane rating is also only relevant for gasoline engines because gasoline engines compress air and fuel together and then ignite the compressed mixture using a spark plug. When we compress air we we bring the air molecules closer together causing them to bump against each other more which then increases the temperature of air. And if we compress it enough to raise the temperature enough this can then lead to the spontaneous ignition of the air fuel mixture which is independent of the action of the spark plug. This spontaneous ignition of the air fuel mixture is also known as detonation or knock. It’s an uncontrolled event which can damage the engine if it’s strong enough or persists long enough and hence must be avoided.

So if your engine requires let’s say regular 87 octane fuel and you put in premium 94 octane in it simply means that you’ve increased the knock resistance of the fuel inside your engine. but this does nothing because your engine is designed for 87 octane and wasn’t knocking in the first place. In other words you’re increasing protection against a non-existant risk. The only time when a higher octane might have helped is if there was something actually wrong with your engine which was causing it to knock. Your ecu detects the knock through the knock sensor and then retards ignition timing to stop the knocking which reduces engine performance. You then pour in the premium fuel which prevents the knocking and your ECU restores normal timing. In this case the higher octane fuel didn’t give you any additional performance but only restored original performance by acting as a band-aid fix for the fault inside your engine. In fact on most modern engines this scenario is impossible because knocking would trigger a check engine light or even limp-mode and engine performance could not be restored without resetting the codes regardless of the fuel you put into the engine. The reality of things is that putting in high octane fuel in a normally operating engine that doesn’t need high octane fuel actually reduces the performance of that engine. And this is because a higher octane number doesn’t just increase knock resistance, it also usually leads to a lower flame speed of the combustion and this can lead to reduced performance.

Now diesel engines don’t have spark plugs and they only compress air which means that the octane rating is irrelevant for diesels. Diesel engines introduce fuel into the combustion chamber only when the air has been compressed sufficiently to be hot enough to ignite the fuel. This is why the tendency to self-ignite under heat and pressure is actually desirable for diesel fuels and the reason why they use a completely different rating called the Cetane number which measures this.

So how is the octane number of fuel even measured? Well it’s measured using a special machine which is essentially a little single cylinder four stroke engine, as you can see here’s the cylinder and here we have the valve springs, but what makes it different from real engines is that it has a variable compression ratio.

The compression ratio of the engine is the ratio between the largest and the smallest volume of the cylinder, in order words it’s the ratio between the total cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead center and when it is at top dead center. The compression ratio of an engine is fixed and can’t be changed when the engine is running. To change it you have to take the engine apart and make mechanical changes to it’s internals to change the compression ratio. For example installing a piston with a large dome is going to decrease both the smallest and the largest cylinder volume leading to an increased compression ratio.

The higher the compression ratio the more we compress and heat up the air fuel mixture leading to higher chances of knock. This is why high compression ratio gasoline engines need higher octane fuels. Another important factor is the presence of forced induction. A turbo or supercharger also compresses the air and pushes it into the engine which means that forced induction also contributes to increased air temperatures and increased chances for knock.

So the compression ratio of a real engine is fixed but it’s not fixed for our octane rating test engine. Older versions of these machines featured a manual handle which raises or lowers the height of the cylinder head thus changing the compression ratio of the engine while it’s in operation.

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#d4a #octane #gasoline

Carbon Fiber Inside the Engine - How CF rods and pistons change engines and why you cant have them

driving 4 answers 2022-06-05 | Let’s say that you want a car part that’s strong. Something that needs to consistently and reliably survive massive forces. How massive, well, let’s say around 100.000 newtons. But how much is a 100.000 newtons…..well to put into perspective an average person like myself can throw a punch with a force of about 1000 newtons. An average sledgehammer blow is around 5.000. So 100.000 newtons is 20 times stronger than a sledgehammer blow. And that's roughly the force to which engine internals are subjected thousands of times per minute when the engine is revving and under load.

To ensure that connecting rods can survive the violent loads inside the engine we usually make them from steel. But sometimes we also make them from aluminum. Now steel is strong. A high grade alloy like 4340 steel can survive a load or stress that is equivalent to nearly 75.000 newtons exerted on every square centimeter of the part before breaking apart. Aluminum isn’t as strong and even high grade alloys like 6061 or 7075 can only manage a maximum of 55.000 newtons per square centimeter. Now carbon fiber is completely is in a league of it’s own….it can survive 250.000 newtons per square centimeter before breaking.

Now here’s the interesting thing we actually put rods from the weakest material here, aluminum, into the most extreme engines out there which generate the highest loads and have the highest chances of destroying their internals. Why? Well that’s because aluminum is lighter than steel.
But aluminum plays a price for it’s low weight and the price is longevity. So with metals we have to compromise, we can either have low weight OR long life, we can’t have both. Now let’s look at carbon fiber again. Just like it blows steel out of the water in terms of strength it blows aluminum out of the water in terms of weight.

So carbon fiber is the absolute champ? It’s super strong, it’s super light and it has no real fatigue life issues. So if it’s the best material out there why are there zero mass produced engines with carbon fiber internals and zero aftermarket carbon fiber rods you can purchase today? I mean we make wheels, car chassis, spoilers and so many other things from it. Why not engine internals if they offer so many benefits?

Here’s the first issue. Carbon fiber does not exhibit isotropic properties. When a material is isotropic it exhibits pretty much the same mechanical and thermal properties in all its parts.
For example this block made from steel is equally strong everywhere. Applying the load here or here will have the same results in terms of the amount of force required to deform or break the block. But carbon isn’t like this. Carbon fiber isn’t isotropic, it’s orthotropic in other words it’s a bit like a wood. Parts made from carbon fiber can’t be one solid chunk as is the case with metals.

Another major problem is the manufacturing process. If you wish to make strong carbon fiber parts you really have only two options. Using dry carbon fiber layers and then bonding them manually together by brushing or rolling resin onto them or by using prepreg. Advanced manufacturing process than involve an autoclave which exposes the part to both high pressure and high temperatures during the curing process to ensure the best possible part uniformity and surface finish.
And as you can see this process of manual stacking of layers, long curing times and the high cost of the raw material itself explains why carbon fiber parts are so expensive. Another issue is that this type of manufacturing process can be very difficult to apply on parts with complex and intricate shapes.

But in 2010 at the Paris Motor Show Lamborghini unveiled something called the Sesto Elemento, a striking limited production run race car. It’s name means “the sixth element”, which is the atomic number of carbon and indeed the car’s chassis, body, drive shaft and suspension components are all made from carbon fiber, but it wasn’t the first to have so many parts made from carbon fiber, instead it was the first to feature something called Forged composites. A brand new unique "forged "carbon fiber manufacturing process which was employed in the tub and suspension arms of the car.

A special thank you to my patrons:
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#d4a #carbonfiber

00:00 Carbon fiber vs steel vs aluminum
10:29 "Forged" carbon fiber
16:46 I contacted Lamborghini and other pioneers

HOW to buy the WRONG FIRST BIKE and be OK with it - NEWBIE RIDER DIARIES #2

driving 4 answers 2022-05-22 | Three days - three bikes. A Yamaha TZR 125 R, a Ducati 900ss and Honda NX250 Dominator. Each one an eye opener for a beginner rider. My first bike, the TZR, is considered the wrong first bike by many and today I'd like to explain why I think there's really no such thing as a "right" first bike and that making mistakes is a good thing. Also in this video I'm talking about the premature demise of the engine on the tzr125, the humbling experience of riding a brutal air-cooled Ducati and the first ride on my new bike. The all-rounder dual sport/mini adventure bike from the 90s that came before its time but is a real gem. I also take that bike on my first ever attempt at off-roading (with -on road tires). We also fry some sausages and do other stuff. Let's hang out.

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#d4a #newbieriderdiaries #nx250

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VAG 1.8T 20V - What makes it GREAT? - ICONIC ENGINES #17

driving 4 answers 2022-05-15 | What is up engine heads, it’s time for another episode of iconic engines. It’s been a while hasn’t it. Well today we’re back with a European giant. And no, it’s not a giant engine, at only 1.8 liters and 4 cylinders it’s one the smaller end of the scale, but it’s a giant in the sense of the incredibly important role it has played and continues to play in the European, Brazilian, UK and a few other non-US tuning and aftermarket modification scenes. The VAG 1.8t 20V may have graced the engine bay of what many consider to be the most disappointing Volkswagen Golf GTI ever, but it’s accessibility, ease of tuning and power potential meant that it quickly became the best sleeper GTI ever

Now Volkswagen is an interesting brand. And if you’re coming over from a Japanese or American manufacturer you’re used to clearly defined lines. In a sense most automakers employ what’s similar to a caste system for their engine families. In other words there’s no mixing between the families.
Compared to this the Volkswagen group four cylinder world is one big orgy and drawing clearly defined lines between the engines is difficult and inevitably ends up being subjective.

The reason is that the grandfather of all vw water cooled inline fours is actually a Mercedes engine called the M118 which was Mercedes' attempt to take Auto Union into a new direction, away from DKW's two stroke smokiness. Of course all of this was happening back when Mercedes owned Auto Union (today Audi) and sent over a man called Ludwig Kraus to build a future for Audi. But before any of it actually bore fruit Mercedes sold Audi to Volkswagen who saw it as a great opportunity to pick up much needed expertise in a time of declining sales for the air-colled VW Beetle that finally started showing it's age. But when Audi went to VW, Ludwig Kraus didn't, Mercedes' prominent engineer stayed over at VW and started working into redesigning the M118 into something new. The new engine was called the EA111 and saw the light of day in 1974, first in the Audi 50 and then in the first ever Volkswagen Polo.

Now our engine of interest the 1.8 turbo 20 valve bears both the EA827 and EA113 code because it's production spawned both generations. The 1.8t 20v engine saw the light of day in 1993 on the Audi A4 and it received a very lukewarm reception, largely due to it's 150hp output. Soon after it would grace the engine bay of the Golf MK4 GTI, again with only 150hp, representing what many saw as a shame to the GTI name. In the years that followed VAG would install the 1.8t 20v into virtually everything it had on offer with four valves. A total of 16 cars got this engine and this list includes everything, from the tiny Polo and Ibiza to the Leon, Octavia and even the hefty Audi A6 and Skoda Superb. Power outputs soon started growing to and the ubiquitous 1.8 eventually covered a range from 150 to 240 horsepower.
But by far it's most significant achievement has been achieved after its warranty....in the tuning scene. The incredibly widespread nature of this engine meant that for many the 1.8t as their first turbo car. The tuning scene would soon change forever and Volkswagen's initially disappointing little four cylinder would almost single-handed breed an entire generation of power addicts.

Now the 1.8t engine may pale in comparison to more exotic powerplants but it's blessed with simple, robust and proven hardware which is often the most reliable path towards pragmatic, real life fun and enjoyment.
We have a bore of 81mm and a stroke of 86.4mm, giving us a pretty undersquare design, which by it's nature results in good amounts of torque low in the rev range.

Most engines feature an aluminum intake manifold and cast log type exhaust manifolds. There are three different KKK turbochargers fitted to the engines and they are K03, K03S and K04. Most engines feature the basic K03, while the K03s can be found on the following engines and the K04 being reserved for the most powerful versions.
K03S turbos are on: BBU, BE, BJX, BVP, ARY, AUQ, AWV, ARX, AUM, AWP, BEX
K04 turbos are on: BFV, APY, APX, AMK, BAM
Everything else like the AEB, AGU and others is K03 turbo.

The tuning success comes from the fact that the VW 1.8t 20v ticks all the right boxes. It's plentiful and readily available and not too expensive which means replacement and upgrade parts can easily be sourced. The engine is already turbocharged from the factory, the internals aren't weak and the ECU isn't restrictive or impossible to remap. So you can easily score +40hp on the 150 engines with zero hardware changes and zero getting dirty.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
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Toma Marini

#d4a #iconicengines #1.8t

00:00 Intro
00:54 History
15:04 Specs
20:29 Tuning

TOO OLD to START RIDING? Brutally HONEST impressions of a 34 year old NEWBIE RIDER

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And this is my first ever motorcycle. It's a yamaha... I'll tell you more about it later. I did xx km with it so far, and these km account for my entire riding experience on an actual motorcycle.

But the interesting thing here is that I'm probably one of the more ill suited persons to take up motorcycle riding, because I'm not your average 34 year old. How come? Well for one I learned how to ride a bicycle at 29, I was thought by my wife. And ever since then I have ridden very little which means that all the 2 wheeled related skills and subconscious stuff that should have become embedded in my brain over the decades simply isn't there. And now I'm at an age where acquiring new skills is much harder than back when I was 4 or 5.
When it comes to learning how to ride I have to say that it feels like an extremely steep learning curve and I feel like I progressed from absolute zero to lane filtering within minutes. And I have to say that I'm really surprised by this. I consider myself a clumsy person and I always had trouble turning verbal instructions into bodily motion.
Before I started riding I tried to imagine and visualize how to do it and I always ended up feeling like I would fall because a motorcycle looks and feels unstable. When it comes to leaning a motorcycle I was 100% certain that I would immediately fall. I completely understand the physics of what keeps a motorcycle moving and why it doesn't fall that easily, but my instincs were overpowring my logic and convincing me that it will be very hard to master even the most basic stuff. Now you're probably wondering „what is this guy talking about“? Didn't he get a license before riding?

I definitely have a license see, I got it five years ago when I realized that I will definitely want to try riding some day. But you see I got it on Vespa px125...a scooter. And in my opinion you don't really ride a scooter. You sit on it. In the same way you sit in a restaurant or on the toilette. I was convinced that an actual motorcycle that you have to throw your leg over and where you shift your gears with your leg is somehow different and I couldn't visualize how to do it.
So I started small...the first task was just taking off and covering a very short distance in first gear, the next time I tried shifting, after that I joined traffic and took a little trip of around 8 kilometers. All of this happened in the span of a single day. I immediately realized that a scooter and a sports bike are pretty similar. Twisting the throttle gets the thing going and keeps it stable. Just as physics said it would.

But I was still surprised by my rapid progress and wondered where it came from. And then I realized....I'm not really clumsy. I'm probably an average person, the only difference is that this time I did things my way and I because I'm 34 I now feel like I have nothing to prove. I proudly duck walk whenever I feel it's necessary.

I got on the bike, started riding and I calmly listened to my body. I know this may sound strange but I decided not to watch any videos on how to ride a motorcycle or do any research. As I said, I'm not very good at interpreting verbal instructions on how to perform a physical action. But more than that I feel that a lot of really popular topics online have created certain dogmas and the validy of these dogmas is increased through endless repetition and regurgitation despite them not being suitable for everyone. So I decided to forego being told what to do and instead I just listened to my body. After 15 minutes of riding my wrists started to hurt..so I realized I was trying to do everything with my hands. I felt that in order to take pain away from my wrists I had to take weight away from them....so I used my thighs to hug the gas tank more tightly and it worked like magic. I still have to remind myself not to do everything with my hands but I'm getting better at it. And by hugging the gas tank I also realized that the bike is controlled more with your legs than with your hands. The hands are sort of a secondary set of controls and the initial inputs seem to be coming from the legs.
When you're very young this comes naturally because you're unable to overthink things. But when you're older you can do things naturally only if when know yourself well....and that doesn't happen in your teens, or your early 20s....it usually happens after you lived with yourself a bit longer.

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#d4a #newbieriderdiaries #firstbike

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AIR COOLED vs OIL cooled vs WATER cooled ENGINES

driving 4 answers 2022-04-17 | Head to squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a

Today we're talking about engine cooling and we will be comparing the benefits and drawbacks of air cooled, oil cooled and water cooled engines.
Why do engines even need to be cooled? To answer that question all you have to do is put your palms together and run them quickly. Feeling the heat? Well that heat is a result of friction and there's plenty of friction happening inside an engine, but by far the major source of friction, often accounting to around 40% of the total friction is the sliding of the piston rings against the cylinder bore.

So how do we control the heat? Well the simplest and earliest answer is to use the air already available everywhere around the engine. This means that air cooled engines don't need any additional liquids, liquid containers, hoses or anything. It is simply by being in contact with the surrounding air that these engines transfer their heat away onto it and cool themselves.
You can easily recognize air cooled engines by the increased number of fins on their cylinder heads.

And that's really all there is to air cooling and this makes air cooled engines dead simple and pretty which also makes them lightweight and very easy to maintain and makes their production very cost effective. But there is a price to be paid for this simplicity. The first is uneven cooling. If we imagine an air cooled engine in the stream of air we can see that the front part of the engine exposed to the air does indeed get cooled, but the back part of the engine obviously isn't in the air stream which means that it won't be cooled as well.

Air cooled engines rely on running richer than liquid cooled engines to ensure that they don't overheat even when outside temperatures are high and the vehicle is stationary. But running richer than required not only reduces power potential but it can also dramatically increase hydrocarbon emissions.

Now the line between oil cooled and air cooled engines can be blurry. The first reason is that all oil cooled engines are also air cooled and you will find that oil cooled engines feature the same cooling fins on their heads and cylinders as can be found on air cooled engines. The other issue is that many air cooled engines such as the Volkswagen and Porsche air cooled flat fours and flat sixes feature an oil cooler so some people actually refer to them as oil cooled rather than air cooled.
But a clear distinction can be made and an engine can be qualified as oil cooled not simply by the presence of an oil cooler but by the fact that a part of the oil is circulated through dedicated channels with the clear purpose of cooling the engine rather than lubricating it. A telltale sign of an oil cooled engine will be increased oil capacity. One of the most widely known representatives of oil cooled engines are engines made by Suzuki featuring their SACS or Suzuki Advanced cooling system. The system was used extensively on GSXR model bikes from 1985 through 1992 and was also featured on the Bandit, GSF as well as DR650 bikes.

So the oil cooling system has the advantage of being able to circulate the entire circumference of the combustion chamber which means that it takes heat away right from the source and allows even cooling of all parts of the engine. The drawback is the increased complexity due to the presence of the radiator and additional oil channels and hoses as well as the increased servicing cost due to the increased oil capacity.

But there's another drawback to oil cooling, and it's the heat capacity of oil which is inferior to the heat capacity of water. Engine oil typically has a heat capacity of around 2 kilo joules per kelvin. This means that it can absorb 2 kilo joules of energy in the form of heat before it's temperature increases by 1 kelvin. Water is far superior in this regard and it has a heat capacity of 4.18 kilo joules per kelvin. This means that water is capable of absorbing twice the heat of oil before it's temperature increases. A mixture of water and antifreeze or coolant flows through dedicated coolant channels throughout the engine block and cylinder head and absorbs heat away from the engine. To ensure proper circulation water cooling also requires a water pump. The pump is usually driven by the engine via a belt although the water pump can also be electronic in more recent vehicles which reduces the parasitic load on the engine. Coolant is passed through a radiator which dissipates the heat absorbed from the engine into the surrounding air. Another key component of the system is the thermostat, it prevents the coolant from circulating through the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature.

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00:00 Intro
01:11 Air cooling
07:31 Oil cooling
10:58 Water cooling

#d4a #aircooled #cooling

EVERYTHING on FUEL SAVING - PRACTICAL DRIVING and MAINTENANCE techniques to REDUCE FUEL consumption

driving 4 answers 2022-04-10 | Head to squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a

So yeah, gas prices...crzazy all around the world. So in response to that today I'm doing a very detailed guide on how to save fuel.

00:00 Contents

Chapter 1 – Maintenance
00:46 Check engine light
Don't ignore them. Check them yourself with a $5 OBD bluetooth dongle and a free phone app. If it's something like an oxygen sensor causing your engine to run too rich then every minute you delay this repair is wasting you money.

02:54 Dirty air filter
A dirty air filter negatively impacts fuel economy by making it more difficult for the engine to breathe. The dirtier your air filter the less permeable it is and the less permeable it is the more engine work will be wasted on trying to ingest air through a dirty filter

03:48 Thinner oils
Thinner engine oils such as 5w30 are more viscous than thicker oils like 10w40 for example. A thinner oil makes it easier for the engine to spin which reduces the amount of engine work wasted on overcoming the high resistance to flow of thick oils. Improved fuel economy is one of the key reasons why many new cars run ultra thin oils like 0w-20 and 0w-30.

04:36 Tires and tire pressure
Every single psi of tire pressure missing reduces fuel efficiency by 0.1 percent. On top of this every psi of pressure missing increases tire wear by 10%.

05:18 The right fuel
Low grade and poor quality makes the engine more susceptible to misfires or engine knocking which will immediately trip engine sensors causing a check engine light and can also accelerate the rate of wear and failure of oxygen sensors and catalytic converters.

Chapter 2 - Driving techniques
06:11 Coasting with engine off
Never shut off your engine while the vehicle is still in motion. By shutting your engine off your are taking away your ability to react properly and on time to the changing road conditions.
You're likely not even saving fuel. Because when you turn the engine on again the injectors will inject extra fuel to ensure the engine starts more easily.

10:00 Drafting
Drafting is also unsafe because it reduces your braking distance and obscures your line of sight. It also doesn't improve fuel economy because you have to be on your toes all the time and will end up using the throttle and brake more often to adapt to the speed of the vehicle in front of you.

11:37 Coasting in neutral
The engine consumes more fuel when idling then when coasting downhill in gear at much higher rpm. This because by connecting the engine to the drive-train you allow the wheels to do the work of spinning your engine. Coasting in neutral isn't a good idea also because it turns the handling dynamics of your car into that of a soapbox car.

12:38 Throttle techniques
The more throttle you apply the more fuel you use. Hard and aggressive throttle operation only wastes fuel. Apply the throttle gently and gradually while adapting to the speed of the traffic around you.

13:56 Braking
Aggressive throttle techniques call for bad braking. By trying to outrun traffic you will be turning the valuable momentum generated by acceleration into brake dust and heat.

14:43 Shifting
Shifting too early can result in the engine starting to struggle which will force you to apply more throttle causing excessive fuel consumption and possibly engine lugging. Don't forget to downshift when you need to accelerate hard. Trying to achieve the desired speed in too high off a gear will result in a big lag in acceleration and wasted fuel.

Chapter 3 – Accessories, features and products
16:18 Aerodynamics
The simpler and more fluid shape of your car the better. Remove roof racks and bike racks when not using them. Use tonneau covers on pickup trucks. Avoid car bras, bug shields, fake vents and aftermarket spoilers.

18:27 Start/stop
If your car has auto start stop don't disable it. If it doesn't have don't try to manually replicate it. You're just straining the battery, starter motor and engine and being a hindrance in traffic. You're also not saving fuel because the engine injects extra fuel when starting.

19:08 AC and windows
Windows below 40mph, AC above that.

19:55 Shedding weight
Get rid of everything you don't use. Messy trunks waste fuel. Keep the tank half full and replace your spare tire with an inflation kit if you don't go offloading and into inaccessible areas.

20:40 Additives, magnets, ionizers
None of these magical fuel saving devices work. Use the money for gas.

22:33 The wrong car
Giant SUV-s and anything with a big engine can't be saved by any fuel saving technique. You need a small, lightweight car with a small engine. EVs still fit very few lifestyles and hybrid cars are realistically the most sensible option anywhere in the world.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
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Zwoa Meda Beda
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#d4a #hypermiling #fueleconomy

HOW and WHY to upgrade your FUEL PUMP and INJECTORS - THEORY + PRACTICE - Project Underdog #13

driving 4 answers 2022-04-03 | AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp
AEM fuel pressure regulator: aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulators/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator
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A turbocharger or supercharger increases power output by compressing air, in other words it stuffs in more air in the same volume ultimately increasing air pressure and air mass inside the engine beyond what the engine could achieve relying on atmospheric pressure alone.
However for the engine to operate properly it must operate at the correct air fuel ratio. This means that when adding forced induction and increasing the amount of air going into the engine we must also increase the amount of fuel coming into the engine.

In my example I'm turbocharging a Toyota 4AFE engine which is naturally aspirated in stock form and makes 110 horsepower. My goal is to try and increase the output to 300 horsepower by adding a turbocharger.
In stock form my engine is equipped with 200 cubic centimetres per minute fuel injectors
And my car is equipped with a fuel pump that flows 80 liters of fuel per hour.

So our fuel pump is capable of flowing more fuel than the engine will realistically ever need. This done to ensure that the fuel pump lasts a long time and isn't strained to maximum capability and it also ensures that correct fuel pressure can be maintained even as the fuel pump ages and wears.
Now let's talk about upgrades. Since I'm planning to almost triple my horsepower output I will also be pretty much tripling the amount of air coming into the engine which means that I will also need to triple the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. So a rough estimate tells us that for 300 horsepower I would need injectors that can flow around 600 cc of fuel per minute.

Now if we multiply our injector flow rate by 4 which is the number of injectors we get a result of 2400cc per minute. This is the maximum amount of fuel my injectors can flow and also the maximum amount of fuel they require. If we convert cc per minute to liters per hour we will see that this is 144 liters per hour which is well beyond the maximum amount of fuel my stock fuel pump can supply, which means that the fuel pump must also be replaced.

I have chosen to replace my stock fuel pump with an AEM High Flow In-Tank Fuel Pump.
I chose this pump because it's very compact and has the same inlet and outlet orientation as my stock pump so it will fit inside the same enclosure and bracket without modification. It's also compatible with ethanol and methanol based fuels in case I decide to run these in the future.
This fuel pump flows 340 liters per hour which is more than twice what my injectors will ever need so you might think this pump is overkill? Well not as much as you'd think and that's because this is a forced induction application. I'm trying to push a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder engine to 300 horsepower and to achieve that I will realistically need at least 20psi of boost.

This means that when the fuel injector opens and tries to spray fuel out into the intake port it will be facing 20 psi of boost pressure fighting against it. So if our fuel pressure is let's say 40 psi then the injector will essentially „waste“ 20 psi of fuel pressure just to overcome boost pressure and the result is that the injector actually discharges fuel with only 20psi behind it.

So how do we fix this? With a boost referenced adjustable fuel pressure regulator. A hose from your intake is connected to the fuel pressure regulator which then „senses“ boost pressure. The regulator has a 1:1 Boost dependent rising fuel pressure rate meaning that it will increase the fuel pressure by the amount of boost pressure it senses. So if it senses 20 psi of boost pressure it will also increase fuel pressure by 20 psi. By doing this we prevent boost pressure from reducing the discharge pressure at the injectors and distorting our air fuel ratio.
But this also means that when our turbo generates 20 psi of boost pressure, our fuel pressure will ramp up from 40 to 60 psi. And the higher the fuel pressure the more difficult it becomes for the fuel pump to maintain the same flow rate. The fuel pump itself does not produce pressure, it produces flow and the pressure level is a consequence of what your fuel pressure regulator does as well as the diameter of your fuel lines, fuel filter and other secondary factors that contribute to fuel pressure.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
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Jack H
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Zwoa Meda Beda
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#d4a #projectunderdog #boostschool

00:00 More air needs more fuel
02:30 Injector sizing formula
05:03 Boost referenced fuel pressure regulation
07:57 How to replace injectors
09:11 How to replace the fuel pump

TWIN SPARK - WHY, HOW and why it isnt more widespread

driving 4 answers 2022-03-20 | Head to squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a.

In 1986 a company called Alfa Romeo introduced the first ever twin spark engine. Instead of having one spark plug in each cylinder Alfa Romeo decided to double things up and install two spark plugs in each cylinder. This resulted in improved combustion inside the engine which lead to increased power and efficiency and to this day twin spark engines are the absolute pinnacle of internal combustion design, often imitated but never duplicated….
Did you buy all this? Well some of it is actually true...but the rest is absolute nonsense. Do you know which part is true and which is not?

1986 ..nope that's a big lie. The first functional dual ignition engine was introduced in 1914 on this car. Was it an Alfa....yes it was! This right here is the 1914 ALFA 40/60 Grand Prix. The car was a creation of Giuseppe Merosi who not only had an incredible mustache but also created an engine that was light-years ahead of it's time. It was a 4.5 liters inline with double overhead cams, four valves per cylinder, 90 degree valve angle and twin spark ignition. In 1914. Although the overall engine architecture was inspired by the Peugeot engines from 1912 and 1913 whose design is claimed by Swiss engineer Ernest Henry, the twin sparks were definitely an Alfa original creation.

Once initiated the combustion flame front travels from the spark plug outward until it covers the combustion chamber and obviously this takes time. The time required to complete a combustion depends on the flame speed of the combustion which depends on the type of fuel, octane rating, compression ratio, how well air and fuel are mixed together and what is the ratio of the air to fuel. But in general as the rpms increase the speed of the piston will outrun the speed of the combustion.
This means that we must rely on ignition advance to fire the spark plug before the piston reaches top dead center in order to give the combustion enough time to spread and build up maximum combustion pressure by the time the piston reaches just a bit past top dead center so that maximum pressure is exerted onto the piston at the correct time leading to maximum power and efficiency.

But there's a limit to ignition advance. Too much ignition advance eventually results in the spark plug being fired too early and creating combustion as the piston still moves upward which is essentially pre-ignition and can damage the engine because it forces the piston to work against the combustion exposing it to massive heat and mechanical stress.
So if we run out of ignition advance and still want to rev the engine to high rpm our only other choice is the increase the speed of the combustion and we can do this by initiating combustion at two different points. If we install two spark plugs and fire them at the same time the travel path for the flame front becomes much shorter. By installing two spark plugs we're not increasing the flame speed, we're simply reducing the travel path of the flame front which obviously decreases combustion time making it possible to fully cover the combustion chamber even at high rpm.

So if twin spark plugs offer the benefits of better combustion which leads to more power potential, improved economy and reduced emissions this must make them very desirable and one would expect to see dual ignition on all car engines on the road today. In reality the opposite is true and as many of you know twin spark plugs are a pretty rare occurrence on car engines. Dual ignition did pop on the engines of various manufacturers through the years. Nissan had it in 1978 on their NAPS-Z and NAPS-X cars. Ford also had it in the 80s and early 90s on their four cylinder Ford Rangers and Mustangs m. Honda also had intelligent and dual sequential ignition on their I-DSI engines found in their smaller cars in the early 2000s. But today there's virtually zero mass produced cars that have twin sparks per cylinder. In fact starting with around 2010 or so twin spark plugs are virtually extinct on car engines.

CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINE
So why do Hemi engines have dual sparks? Well first of all the hemi engine isn't a true hemi anymore, the combustion chambers aren't really hemispherical, instead they have a more complex oval shape. But more importantly than this the modern hemi is still a bit of a 2 valve dinosaur. Some versions do have cam phasing but that's pretty much it. There's no direct or dual injection, no variable intakes, no variable valve lift meaning that the Hemi needs all the help it can get meet recent emissions and economy standards.

A special thank you to my patrons:
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#d4a #twinspark

00:00 Intro
02:43 Combustion speed
06:35 2 and 4 valves
11:37 Bikes and planes

NARDI Steering Wheel GIVEAWAY!

driving 4 answers 2022-03-19 | Participation rules:
1. Follow Midship Garage on Instagram - instagram.com/midshipgarage/?hl=en
2. Subscribe to Midship Garage on YouTube - youtube.com/channel/UCheIawlKXGc59pmGTnxOyvQ
3. Comment on this video
All participants must be 18 or older. Prize is 360mm Nardi Steering Wheel and $50 gas card or equivalent Visa gift card (in case winner is outside US). Prize estimated list value: 407$. The giveaway is not in affiliation with Nardi or Shell. Only one entry per person is allowed. No purchase necessary / free to enter. Any potential customs or import fees are responsibility of award recipient. Giveaway ends Monday 03/21/2022 at 07:00 PM US PST (Pacific Standard Time). Winner will be announced Tuesday 03/22/2022 at 07:00 AM US PST

Good luck everyone :)

A word of support for Midship Garage:
Recently Midship Garage has come under attack in the form of hacking, attempts at business disruption, defamation and racial hatred. Unfortunately the internet allows people to hide behind a vpn and a keyboard and basically commit hate crimes and go unpunished. The attacks have been reported to authorities and hopefully will be resolved soon. In case you run into any of these posts online that are attempting to defame or slander Midship Garage rest assured that they are lies and nonsense. I have worked with Midship Garage on numerous occasions, both as a regular customer and as a channel. Dozens upon dozens of my friends in the Celica and MR2 communities have purchased stuff from Midship Garage and we have always received what we paid for. If someone didn't receive something they were refunded immediately. This is a 100% legitimate and professional business and I would just like to try and put the word out there to try and minimize the negative effects of illegal actions against a business that is a valuable part of the MR2 and the car community in general. I am personally disgusted by these and all similar actions and types of hate crimes and fully support all business, especially small ones in the car community that are doing honest and legitimate work.

#d4a #midshipgarage #giveaway

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WHY are HORSEPOWER and TORQUE CURVED?

driving 4 answers 2022-03-13 | Head to squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a.

Let's say you're idling at 600 rpm. You put the car in gear and you floor it, you open the throttle completely. It takes a fraction of a second for the butterfly valve in your throttle body to open fully and allow large amounts of air into the engine. The air takes even less time to actually get into the engine and it takes the injectors another absolute miniscule amount of time to deliver the fuel needed to match this air.
So everything the engine needs to be build maximum power and torque is delieved in a split second. Maximum air is allowed into the engine and we can deliver maximum fuel pretty much instantly. So why doesn't the engine deliver maximum power and torque instantly? Why does it need to rev higher to make maximum power? Why can't it deliver that same power right after idle if we're giving it everything it needs to do so? Why can't internal combustion engines generate instant torque like electric vehicles such as a tesla can?

Why is power and torque a curve and not just a flat line?
Well the answer is piston speed! Why piston speed? Because the speed of the piston determines how much air can actually get into the engine. A fully open throttle body may ALLOW a lot of air to potentially get into the combustion chamber. But how much of that air actually gets in is determined by the piston.

But aren't intake valves what determines how much air gets into the chamber. Zero air gets into the chamber when the intake valve is closed. the timing of the intake valve opening and the duration of how long the intake valve stays open actually determines how much air gets into the chamber. Well yes, technically this is correct. But the valves too are just like the throttle body. A fully open intake valve creates potential for maximum air to enter into the engine, but whether maximum air actually gets into the chamber is determined by the piston. How does the piston do this?

Well it's actually pretty simple. When the piston moves down the bore it creates a void, or vacuum, an senescence of air. When this absence appears air of course moves to fill it. This vacuum which is constantly being created by the piston is the true source of the engine's appettite for air.
Now the higher the engine rpm the faster the crankshaft spins and the faster the piston travels. Now the faster the piston moves down the bore the faster it creates more vacuum and the faster the air rushes into the engine. And this is why power and torque are curves. At 700 rpm the piston simply doesn't travel fast enough to create enough vaccum to ingest maximum air.
But when the engine builds up 5000 rpm the piston travels fast enough to ingest the maximum possible air and then you match that with fuel and you get the maximum possible combustion intensity which generates the maximum possible combustion pressure which pushes the piston down with maximum force then using the connecting rod and crankshaft pin as leverage the piston causes the crankshaft to rotate at maximum torque.

But forced induction engines don't care about the vacuum generated by the piston because they can use a turbo or supercharger to stuff in more air than a silly little vaccum could ever hope to create? True, forced induction increases power but again no amount of forced induction can create a flat power and torque curve. A turbo needs a sufficient amount of exhaust energy to be driven at sufficient speed to generate maximum boost, and the engine can only generate this maximum exhaust energy at certain rpm. Same goes for the supercharger which is driven by the crankshaft usually via a belt so it's rotation speed is actually synced to the rpm of the engine. And to achieve maximum boost the supercharger also needs to achieve a certain rpm. And although some very modern turbocharged engines can generate maximum torque starting from as little as 1500rpm and keep it flat for most of the rpm range thanks to modern ultra low resistance and ultra smart aerodynamics turbos and continuously variable valve timing and valve lift.....maximum power is still always generated at a much higher rpm.

So here's the next level question for you: How can maximum torque be generated at much lower rpm than horsepower. Aren't the two linked together because horsepower is essentially torque x rpm. So why doesn't the horsepower curve simply follow the torque curve? Why don't they look the same?
The reason behind this is that horsepower is essentially torque x rpm.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda
Toma Marini

#d4a #horsepower #torque

00:00 Why are they not flat
02:29 Gates and piston speed
05:10 Forced induction and vacuum
06:41 Why peak torque before peak power
09:04 Why do they fall off

The sights and sounds of a #2stroke #yamaha #tzr #joyofmachine

driving 4 answers 2022-03-04 | ...

Turbo 4AFE UPDATE + GOODBYE Bike Carb 4AGE recap - Project Underdog #12

driving 4 answers 2022-02-27 | Live streams: superpeer.com/driving4answers
4AGE cad files and channel support: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com
midshipgarage.com
https://www.weldspeed.com.au/
Patreon: patreon.com/d4a

So in this video we're doing a big recap on the bike carb 4age and bidding farewell to it. We're also doing an update on the Turbo 4afe as it has also seen some progreess. The head is on, clutch, flywheel, transmission - it's basically ready to be installed into the MR2.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda
Toma Marini

#d4a #projectunderdog #bikecarb4age

00:00 Live streams, CAD files, etc.
03:35 Engine drop
04:26 Bike carb CONS
14:19 Bike carb PROS
20:25 Turbo 4AFE progress

I drove more than 600km with this! More on this in the video coming on Sunday. #lucky

driving 4 answers 2022-02-24 | ...

Which ECU is Right For You? - REFLASHED OEM vs STANDALONE ECU

driving 4 answers 2022-02-20 | d4a live: superpeer.com/driving4answers
Infinity 506: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5

In today's video we're talking about ECUs and comparing stock OEM ECUs vs aftermarket. We will see the pros and cons of both and we will see what can be achieved with reflashed oem ecus vs standalone ecus and which approach best suits which type of end-user.

What is an ECU? Well ECU stands for ENGINE CONTROL UNIT and it's the key component of every electronically fuel injected vehicle. Sometimes you will also hear the terms ECM or PCM which stand for engine control module or power control module all of these mean the same thing. An ECU is basically a computer that receives inputs from various sensors on the engine which basically tell it how much air is coming into the engine and then based on these inputs the ECU will control the injectors to inject the correct amount of fuel and instruct the ignition coils to fire the spark plug at the correct time with the goal of extracting the maximum efficiency and/or power from the engine. This controlling of injection and ignition is done using what is known as maps. The most important of these are fuel maps and ignition maps.

An OEM ECU is technically not designed to be tampered with. If evidence of tampering with it is found this will obviously void your warranty if you have one and tampering with the OEM ECU obviously risks engine damage. But tampering with anything engine related obviously carries a certain level of engine damage risk, however these risks of tampering with things have never successfully deterred humans from tampering with them...so we tamper.

So how do we even tamper with an OEM ECU? Well, the first step towards this is actually reading what's inside the ECU. Manufacturers are not keen on giving anyone with a laptop easy access to what's inside the ECU, which is why the data in the maps and other features of an OEM ECUs isn't really straightforward to read. But people have encrypted anything and everything and OEM ECUs are no exception. Once the contents of the ECU are encrypted an interface that reads and displays them in a meaningful manner on a pc is created. There are countless different interfaces out there. A few examples are: HP tuners, hondata, ecutek, k-tag, versatuner, etc. Some are open source and free, others must be purchased. All of these interfaces or software packages cover different makes and models and many overlap with each other. Obviously popular vehicle platforms will be better off here and will always have access to more community, aftermarket and software support, whether it be paid or free.
The final step will be acquiring a special USB cable which will connect your vehicle's OBD port to your laptop's USB port and then you will be able to see and modify the MAPS stored inside your ECU.

So this sounds great right? What more could you ask for? What is the purpose of a standalone ECU if re-flashing already let's you modify your stock one?

Well, reflashing, just like anything else has it's limits and depending on your vehicle platform, goal and desires these limitations may make a standalone a ECU much more sensible option.

The reason behind this is that your stock ECU is designed for your specific engine. In contrast to this a standalone ECU is infinitely more flexible. For example the AEM infinity 506 that I'm holding in my hand can run any engine with up to 6 cylinders. It doesn't even care if the engine is two stroke or four stroke, the injectors can be either high impedance or low impedance, the engine can be turbocharged or naturally aspirated, the throttle can be dirve by wire or cable, it can control nitrous, compensate for flex fuel or the amount of ethanol in your fuel, it can control boost based on rpm, vehicle, speed, gear, ethanol content, it can even perform traction control and launch control, it can protect your engine based on coolant temperature, oil pressure, oil temperature, knock, intake air temperature, fuel pressure, air fuel ratios, it can even control stepper motors and log data for your.

But there is a catch. A standalone ECU may be almost infinitely flexible...but as such it is also a blank canvas. When you read the data from your OEM ECU you will have a starting point, a setup that is known to work. A standalone will have no values in its maps unless you type something in. This lack of a starting point and large amount of features and settings my make a standalone ECU seem more intimidating than it really is.
So to better see the pros and cons of both setups let's go through a bunch of typical user scenarios to see which setup shines where and which category of user do you see yourself fitting the best.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda
Toma Marini

00:00 What is an ECU
00:59 Map basics
02:12 Features
06:13 Just the tip
10:31 Getting hooked
12:15 Totally addicted
16:00 Racing

#d4a #ecu #reflash #aem #standalone

FORDS HIDDEN BOOST Tank - Welded TITANIUM filled with ANTI-LAG

driving 4 answers 2022-02-06 | Ok so today we're talking about a cheat....well no....technically this wasn't a cheat it was a very very creative interpretation of the rules of the world rally championship.

So the year is 2003 the car is the Ford Focus RS WRC 03 and the motor-sport discipline is the World Rally Championship.
Now in 2002 Ford introduced newly designed version of the Focus for the WRC. Most of the important stuff was redesigned from the ground up, the body shell was made lighter and aerodynamic enhancements were introduced.
But one of the most noticeably changes was the replacement of the front and rear bumpers with US spec bumpers which was a bit weird as the car was based on the European Focus. But fitting different bumpers isn't against the rules and most initially suspected that the US bumpers offered some sort of aerodynamic advantage or something.
Now the real reason for the US bumpers is that US safety regulations demand larger and more prominent bumpers. A regulation that's notorious for uglifying many cars. But this time a larger bumper had a completely different agenda because inside the bumper the Ford World Rally team concealed a 45 liter tank made from 2mm thick titanium sheets.

So what was the titanium tank used for? It was used to store boost. I know it may sound ridiculous but this was it's actual purpose. The tank was connected to the engine via 4 meters of 30mm diameter piping. When the car was off throttle and the turbo was generating boost that the engine wasn't ingesting this excess boost was fed into the tank. When the car got back on throttle a special valve would open and release all of the stored boost back into the engine for increased power.

So here we have an engine and here we have a turbocharger. Combustion happens inside the cylinder and creates hot exhaust gasses. These hot gasses then exit through the exhaust manifold and drive the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel inside the exhaust side of the turbocharger is connected to the compressor wheel via a common shaft. The compressor wheel inside the intake side of the turbo sucks in air, compresses it and then sends it through the intercooler into the engine.

So logic tells us that the faster the turbo spins the more air it can suck in. The more air it sucks in the more air it can compress generating higher boost pressure and more power. The higher the boost pressure or the pressure of the intake air the more we are stuffing into the same volume. The more air we stuff the more fuel we can add and the more powerful the combustion becomes. The more powerful the combustion the more power the engine makes and the faster the car can go.

Now when you open the throttle fully you're letting in more air into the engine so the ECU adds more fuel to compensate and we create more powerful combustions inside the engine. This also create more exhaust gasses and more heat which is then used to drive the turbocharger faster. So the turbo starts spinning faster and faster sucking in and compressing more and more air. As it does so it starts increasing the air pressure inside the intake manifold until we reach the peak pressure our turbocharger can generate. Let's imagine that in our case that's 2 bar, which is approximately 30psi. So the turbo is stuffing air at the peak pressure it can generate which leads to the engine generating it's peak power as well. Now let's imagine we're approaching a sharp corner and we suddenly release throttle.
At this moment we have pressurized air that has nowhere to go because entry into the engine has suddenly been blocked by the throttle plate. This is excess boost. Pressurized air inside the intake manifold that can not go into the engine.

So here's Ford's valve, here's the tank and here's the engine. When the driver releases the throttle and anti lag kick in the valve opens. Increased boost pressure fills up the intake manifold and any excess beyond that goes into the tank. When you get back on throttle and if pressure inside the intake manifold is higher than inside the tank the throttle remains closed to prevent boost pressure being wasted on filling the tank and reducing power output. Driver let's go off the throttle again, anti lag kicks in excess boost pressure goes into the tank until eventually the pressure in the intake manifold becomes the same as in the tank. The valve now closes because tank pressure can not be increased further.
The next time you get back on full throttle the pressure inside the tank is higher than inside the intake manifold. The valve now opens and extra air pressure rushes into the intake manifold generating higher pressure in the intake manifold than would normally be possible thus increasing the power output.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda

#d4a #ford

00:00 Ford in the WRC
02:28 Hidden boost tank
05:46 Boost pressure basics
09:19 What is excess boost?
13:29 Anti lag fills the tank

New video on the channel! #d4a #boostschool #anti-lag

driving 4 answers 2022-02-06 | ...

MIND BOGGLING ENGINE GEOMETRY - Rod Ratio Explained

driving 4 answers 2022-01-30 | Here we have two engines. Both have the same bore and the same stroke. As you can see the only difference is the length of their connecting rods. At the same engine speed so at the same speed of rotation, the same rpm. Which engine has a faster accelerating piston?

As you can see the question I asked you was a trick question because the piston in the short rod engine accelerates faster from top dead center going down while the long rod piston accelerates faster from bottom dead center going up. So why does this happen if both engines have the same bore, same stroke and are obviously spinning at the same rpm. Well the culprit behind is obvious. It's the connecting rods, as they're the only thing different between the two engines. And this video I promise to strain your mind to the redline by explaining how something as simple as different connecting rod lengths create different piston acceleration and then using real life engine examples we will see how this impacts everything from power and torque to engine longevity, responsiveness, vibrations and even things like coolant temperatures.

So these two engines have different rod lengths, this means that they have different rod ratios. The full name is actually rod to stroke ratio. And it's the ratio of the center to center length of your connecting rod to the length of your engine's stroke which is determined by your crankshaft.

A connecting rod is essentially a fixed length line. It's absolute length obviously never changes. But the relative length of the connecting rod is constantly changing when the engine is running. In other words the connect rod length changes in relation to the piston and the crankshaft as the engine is running.

At top dead center and as you can see the connecting rod is fully upright. In this state it's at its maximum length in relation to the piston and crankshaft. Now as the engine rotates towards 90 degrees the connecting rod assumes it's fully angled position. In this position it is obviously at it's shortest in relation to the piston and the crankshaft. As we said an angled line has a shorter relative length than that same line when fully vertical.
So as the engine rotates from 0 to 90 degrees the connecting rod is becoming shorter in relation to the piston and the crankshaft. As it does so it pulls down the piston an additional distance. The piston is already traveling downward so adding distance in the same direction forces the piston to accelerate more to cover that added distance.

In fact we can observe this con-rod added distance in practice on every single piston engine ever made. Simply take any engine and rotate it to 90 degrees, or to half the stroke. Obviously at half the stroke the piston should also cover half the stroke distance? But it never does, at 90 degrees of rotation the piston of every engine will have traveled beyond half the stroke. This additional distance is the distance added by the connecting rod as it's relative length shortens.

So why does the piston in the short rod engine accelerate more? The reason is simple and it's that a shorter rod length in relation to the same stroke results in the connecting rod assuming a steeper angle against the piston and crankshaft centerline. The steeper the angle the shorter the rod becomes in relation to the piston and crankshaft.

So now we understand why the short rod piston accelerates faster away from TDC and we can use the same principles of relative rod length to understand what happens throughout the entire engine revolution.

Now let's look at the rod ratios of some real life engine examples to see how these differences in acceleration actually impact the engine.
Our first engine is the 1.6 liter Hyundai Gamma engine as found in numerous different Hyundai and Kia vehicles. As you can see this your typical daily driver engine with a modest redline, decent power and a pretty low rod ratio.
Next up we have the 2 liter Honda K20 engine. We're looking at the performance version of this engine and as you can see it makes quite a bit more power than the Hyundai engine and it also has a noticeably higher redline and also a higher rod ratio.

Our final engine is the one from the 2013 to 2018 Kawasaki ZX6R. As you can see it makes impressive power for it's very small displacement and has a redline that's almost twice that of the Honda K20. It also has by far the highest rod ratio. Somewhere around 2.2 or 2.3 is the highest realistic rod ratio for mass produced engines. Some of the highest rod ratios were found in Formula 1 cars at about 2.8

Awesome video proving rod ratio effects on a dyno by Garage 4age: youtu.be/uQLiWQAS35E

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda

00:00 Piston acceleration in detail
09:40 Rod ratios of real engines

#d4a #rodratio

Do you know the answer? Find out this Sunday on the d4a channel! #engineering #joyofmachine #d4a

driving 4 answers 2022-01-28 | ...

PORT vs DIRECT vs DUAL INJECTION - a DETAILED comparison -EVERYTHING you need to know in 1 video

driving 4 answers 2022-01-16 | This is a detailed comparison of three different kinds of fuel injection. Port injection (or PFI), direct fuel injection (GDI or gasoline direct injection) and dual injection, which is a combination of port and direct fuel injection. We will see how each setup works, how they differ from each other and we will of course examine the benefits and drawbacks of each setup, so, let's get started.

So both port and direct injection essentially do the same thing – they inject fuel into the engine to create a combustible air/fuel mixture which when combusted creates combustion pressures which drives the piston downward causing the crankshaft to spin which then ultimately turns the wheels of the car.

As the name implies, port injection, injects fuel into the intake port of the engine, before the intake valve, whereas direct injection injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber, after the intake valves. This means that in the case of port injection you will usually find the fuel injectors somewhere on the intake manifold while in the case of direct injection the injectors will often be either on the valve cover or right underneath the intake manifold bolted to the cylinder head.

Both systems consist of essentially the same parts: a fuel tank, a fuel pump, fuel lines and injectors. However because direct injection injects into the combustion chamber it has to inject against the compression pressures of the engine which means that it must operate at much higher fuel pressures. Direct fuel injection often operates at pressures above 2000 psi or 140 bar. Of course to achieve such high pressures the direct fuel injection system must be more complex. It contains both a low pressure in-tank fuel pump and a high pressure cam-shaft driven fuel pump. The injectors themselves are also much more advanced and expensive because they must be capable of opening and closing extremely quickly against very high fuel pressure. They also need to be capable of surviving the harsh conditions created by combustion since their tips are exposed to it.

Direct injection has the advantage of enabling higher compression ratios because it supplies fresh cool fuel directly into the chamber and it injects it later which means that it spends less time inside the engine which means that it picks up less heat than it would in the case of 'port injection. Less heat means less chances of knock which gives direct injection engines more room to increase the compression ratio which can improve both performance and efficiency.

Another reason direct injection can improve performance and reduce emissions and fuel consumption is its location. Because the injector is inside the chamber it means that the amount of fuel injected is the same as the amount of fuel that gets into its chamber. Port fuel injection injects outside the chamber which means that the amount of fuel released isn't necessarily the amount of fuel that ends up in the chamber. Some of it may stick onto the walls of the intake, some may not make it into the chamber before the valve closes. This reduces injection accuracy and control which can negatively impact emissions and efficiency.

But port injection has the benefit of having the intake valves constantly exposed to fuel, a great solvent. Direct fuel injection never injects onto the back of the valves which over time leads to accumulation of carbon deposits and other gunk from the pcv system. This reduces performance and leads to rough running. Results of prevention methods such as oil catch cans and fuel system additives or valve cleaners are mixed and the need to eventually mechanically clean the valves is inevitable. This of course leads to increased maintenance costs for direct injection engines.

Another potential issue that can occur in direct injection engines is LSPI or low speed pre-ignition. This occurs at low rpm and high load (wide open throttle situations). At low rpm piston speeds are low which leads to poor fuel vaporization in direct injection engines. At the same time the high load means that the ECU instructs the injectors to inject more fuel into the cylinder. The other factor that needs to happen is a particle from the back of the valves or an oil droplet that makes it into the chamber and mixes with the poorly vaporized fuel. The mixture then gets exposed to the very high compression inside gdi engines and boom pre-ignition happens, often leading to catastrophic damage if allowed to persist.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Daniel Morgan
Pepe
Brian Alvarez
Jack H
Dave Westwood
Joe C
Zwoa Meda Beda

#d4a #gdi #fuelinjection

00:00 Injection location
02:06 Injecting against compression
04:35 Timing
06:02 Compression ratio
07:48 Knock
10:13 Fuel injected vs Fuel combusted
11:09 Vaporization
13:09 Enough fuel for high rpms?
15:18 Intake valve deposits
17:22 LSPI
19:19 Stack the benefits loose the drawbacks

Full video: https://youtu.be/E1_9MrHzZ98

driving 4 answers 2022-01-12 | ...

HOW and WHY to relocate your OIL FILTER

driving 4 answers 2022-01-02 | On a stock engine with a stock exhaust manifold the exhaust manifold clears the oil filter without issues. But let's see what happens if we decide to modify this engine. Let's imagine we want to fit a different exhaust manifold with the goal of turbocharging the engine.

In many cases clearance becomes a problem and the manifold is hits the oil filter. Even a shorter oil filter often doesn't help much and installing a turbo charger is simply impossible.

The only solution in a scenario like this one to relocate our filter. In other words we remove our stock oil filter and mounting plate and replace with an oil filter relocation kit that allows us to put our filter pretty much anywhere we want to.

An oil filter relocation kit consists of two main parts. One part goes onto your stock oil filter location. And the other part houses your oil filter on it's new location and then the two parts get connected to each other.

Your stock mounting plate and oil filter are connected to the engine using a long union bolt. Obviously this bolt is too long for the relocation plate so the kit has a shorter version of this union bolt.
The kit also comes with two adapters to suit a wide variety of engines.

The adapter is fastened into the mounting bracket and then the hollow bolt is installed into the adapter. After that you can screw the entire assembly into the block as you would your oil filter.

The oil filter itself is of course installed into the other part of the kit and then you can you use the provided mounting brackets and holes to install the oil filter and housing at your desired location.

The kit that I'm using in this video is made by Manon Racing Performance in New Zealand which specialized in Toyota 4AGE performance parts. This kit is a high quality billet item with impeccable finish machining to ensure perfect fitment and maximum flow. It's designed to operate reliably under high temperatures and in harsh racing conditions. Thanks to it's extensive range of adapters it also suits a wide variety of engines.

It's also designed to fit -10AN or army navy fittings for a leak free easily removable connection. -10an is a large cross-section fitting which ensures optimum flow and is the recommended size for most applications.

However there is a problem with this kit, the fittings point outward at a right angle from the engine block wall and the AN fittings add to the profile of the filter which again results in potential clearance problems. Fortunately this can easily be resolved simply by removing the provided fittings and replacing them with banjo bolt style fittings. These then point the connection downward and dramatically reduce the profile of the relocation plate leaving more than enough room for the turbo.

An oil filter relocation kit also gives us the opportunity to install an oil cooler to reduce oil temperatures which can be something very beneficial in racing or other situations where we have high engine loads for prolonged periods of time.

When it comes to plumbing the oil cooler you have two options. Option 1 is to have the oil flow from the engine to the cooler then to the filter and finally back into the engine. Option two is to have the oil run to the filter first and then to the engine. Both options are acceptable in most scenario and each has its small benefits. Having the oil cooler before the filter means that the oil filter can catch any residual solder and other debris that can break loose from inside the cooler but it can also mean that you're sending cooler more viscous oil into the filter. If the oil is too cool and too viscous it will trigger the bypass valve inside the oil filter and reduce the amount of oil actually being filtered.

But fortunately there is a solution to this problem as well. If your oil cooler ends up cooling the oil too much you can install this which is a thermostatic sandwich plate. You can install it both under the oil filter or under the mounting bracket on the engine. Inside it the thermostatic plate has a proprtioning valve which sends more oil to the cooler the hotter it gets. The end result is an engine that gets to operating temperature faster but also doesn't overcool it's oil.

In general an oil cooler is not a good idea just because it cools your oil but also because it together with the hoses needed for the system increases the oil capacity of your engine which is almost never a bad thing. Having more oil to circulate though the engine helps ensure proper temperature control.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

#d4a #mrp

Mid-engined in the snow - full holiday special video is live on the channel

driving 4 answers 2021-12-25 | ...

Toyota MR2 - good for driving in the snow? D4A holiday special

driving 4 answers 2021-12-25 | The people that made this video possible and my time in the mountains memorable:
instagram.com/our_piratelife
instagram.com/ficacrew

Happy holidays everyone. All the best to you and yours.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com
Patreon: patreon.com/d4a

#d4a #aw11 #snowdrift

Miniature RUNNING V-Twin - 45 vs 90 degree V-twins - ENGINEDIY mini ENGINE unboxing, review, startup

driving 4 answers 2021-12-19 | Buy here: bit.ly/3hiNU3F
Get 10% Off Coupon Code: enginediy
Check out www.enginediy.com for more

When it comes to the packaging of the engine everything looks good and the engine is protected really well. The only thing that might be at risk from rough handling are the exhaust tubes which are placed into the bubble wrap next to the box

The engine itself is well protected and comes inside this neat little unbranded black box.

When it comes to the exterior appearance of the engine I have to say that everything looks absolutely perfect and well made. The machining is without fault and I really can't find anything obvious to complain about when it comes to the fit and finish of this little thing.

Inside the box we can also find some o-rings of un-known purpose. Some electrical connectors.....and this shaft which is used for starting the engine. Inside is also our CDI box which provides the ignition for the engine.
At the back of the box lid you can find the instructions. Unfortunately the instructions are almost useless and don't explain any of the basics so you have to figure out pretty much everything yourself.

Once the engine was mounted it was time to provide a source of electrical energy for the ignition. I did this with a set of 6 double A batteries which I connected to the little connector that comes in the kt.

Once the ignition is verified to work the last thing we need to do is to provide fuel. The instructions actually call for zippo fuel mixed together with 2 stroke oil at a ratio of 25:1.
The fuel connection is at the bottom of the carburetor unfortunately the position and orientation of the fitting makes it very difficult to install a hose and I think an L-shaped fitting or something else would have been a much better idea here.

I got the engine started within 15 minutes from taking it out of the box so I have to say that it's extremely impressive how easily it started. It required virtually zero troubleshooting. Overall the feel, sound and vibrations coming form the engine are extremely impressive. It sounds incredibly similar to an actual motorcylce engine and hearing in person is a really special sensation. So I have to say that they nailed that part and this is without a doubt a truly impressive gift for someone into engines or motorcycles, especially harleys or cruiser bikes in general

PROS
Exceptional looks fit and finish
Amazing sound
Very easy to start
CONS
poor instructions
attention to detail (no thread in some of the mounting holes, weird fuel connection location, wrong bolt/ thread depth for the ground location)

Now let's talk about the angle of our v-twin engine.

As you can see our miniature engine is clearly trying to mimic the harley davidson panhead engine, and like almost all harley davidson engines since 1909 it has a 45 degree angle between the two cylinders.
So which angle between the cylinders is best? 45, 90, 60? or something in between? In reality there is no such thing as the best or perfect angle for a v-twin engine, we only have different compromises for different applications.

For example a 90 degre v-twin like those we see in Ducati motorcycles make it possible to achieve perect primary balance with the use of a crankshaft counterweight. A crankshaft counterweight can't balance out the mass of the piston in a single cylinder engine. When the piston is at top dead center the crankshaft counterweight can indeed balance it out. But when the engine rotates to 90 degrees the piston and the counterweight point in different directions and thus can't balance each other out.
But in a 90 degree v twin the crankshaft counterweight can balance out both pistons. When piston of cylinder 1 is at tdc it's balanced out by the crankshaft counterweight. When the engine roates 90 degrees the crankshaft counterweight can now balance out the other piston and connecting rod assembly. The result is dramatically reduced vibrations and a smooth running engine.

Now if we observe the 45 degree v-twin engine we can see that the crankshaft counterweight can not fully balance out the mass of the pistons like it can in the 90 degree-v twin. Due to the more narrow angle the counterweight can only partially balance out the masses of the pistons and the conrods leading to an imperfect primary balance.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com
Patreon: patreon.com/d4a

#d4a #vtwin #miniengine

COMPRESSION RATIO: HOW to CALCULATE, MODIFY and CHOOSE the BEST one - BOOST SCHOOL #10

driving 4 answers 2021-12-05 | In today's video we're talking about your engine's compression ratio. First we'll explain the theory behind the compression ratio, so what it is and how it influences the performance and efficiency of your engines. After that we will dive into the practical side of things and we will see how to calculate and modify your compression ratio and finally we'll talk about choosing the best compression ratio for your application. So, let's get started.

Now when we say compression ratio we're actually referring to the static compression ratio of the engine, and that is the ratio between the largest and smallest volume of your cylinder. In other words it's the ratio between the cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead center and the cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead center.

Your compression ratio, as the name implies, determines how much the air and fuel mixture inside your cylinder gets squeezed and compressed. The higher your compression ratio the closer the air and fuel molecules are brought together which means that we allow combustion to occur more effectively and more rapidly which ensures that the air fuel mixture is burned more thoroughly. Iin general a higher combustion ratio is achieved either by reducing the size of the combustion chamber or by bringing the piston closer to the combustion chamber. By doing this we of course bring the piston closer to the heart of the cobmsution or the source of energy which allows more of this energy to be transfered onto the piston and turned into piston movement or mechanical energy. In other words a higher combustion ratio can improve both power and efficiency.
So the more the better right? Well as with all things there's a sensible limit and you can actually have too much of a good thing.

Because a higher compression ratio contributes to a more thorough burn of the air fuel mixture it also increases combustion temperatures. The more compressed the mixture the better it burns and the better it burns the hotter it burns. The upside of this is of course more power potential and more efficiency but the downside is that the engine will run hotter and will have increased nitrogen oxide emissions.

Higher combustion temperatures lead to more nitrogen oxide emissions which is one of the main reasons why more modern diesel engines that have a EURO 6 emissions standard run on average lower compression than their predecessors from a decade or two ago.

But one of the main limiting factors when it comes to compression in spark ignition engines is of course knock. When you compresses gasses they heat up, air is of course a gas and if you compress it too much it can get hot enough to ignite gasoline fuel before it's actually reached by the expanding flame front created by the spark plug. This is called knock. Obviously a higher compression ratio increases the chances of knock and thus limits the ratio of compression a gasoline engine can have. This is especially true for forced induction engines which send already compressed air into the engine.

Okay, so that's the basic theory now let's move onto the practical side of things. So what determines your engine's compression ratio?
It's actually seven things:
1. Your bore
2. Your stroke
3. The thickness of your compressed head gasket
4. The bore of your head gasket
5. The distance between your piston top and your block deck
6. The volume of your piston dish or dome
7. And your combustion chamber volume

So how do you calculate it? Well there are formulas but the advent of the internet allows us to be lazy and just plug everything into readily available free to use online compression ratio calculators.

When it comes to changing our compression ratio here's a basic run-down.
Increased bore - increased compression ratio
Increased stroke - increased compression ratio
Thicker head gasket - reduces compression ratio
Thinner head gasket - increases compression ratio
Decking the block - increases compression ratio
Cutting the head - increases compression ratio
Removing material from the combustion chamber - reduces compression ratio
Domed pistons - increase compression ratio
Dished pistons - reduce compression ratio

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com
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#d4a #boostschool #compressionratio

00:00 What is compression ratio and how it works
04:20 How to calculate compression ratio
06:42 How to change it
09:37 Choosing the optimal one for your application

RB26 vs 2JZ | and WHY the RB26 is MORE ICONIC - ICONIC ENGINES #16

driving 4 answers 2021-11-28 | What is up engine heads it's time for iconic engines and today we're talking about one of the most iconic engines ever made. The way it was born and the things that it has achieved have forever cemented it's iconic status in the hall of fame of internal combustion.

The engine I'm talking about is Nissan's RB26 engine. A collection of two letters and two numbers known by virtually every petrol-head on planet earth. Now in today's video we will as always cover the history, specifications and tuning of our engine of choice but in this video we will also be doing something we don't usually do in iconic engines and that is comparing two different engines throughout the video.
Of course you can probably guess what we will be comparing the RB26 with.....yes of course the 2jz from Toyota. Now I haven't read up on the rb26 engine in a pretty long time so when I googled it before making this video to refresh my knowledge on a few things I was very surprised to see that the internet nowadays seems to think that the 2JZ is the better engine and the reason for this seems to be all the 1000hp builds and the 2jzs ability to better cope with obscene power. Now I understand that quarter mile racing is the most popular form of motorsport in United states and probably also in Australia and I understand that these two countries sort of dominate the English speaking internet so I it seems that which matters most in quarter mile racing has somehow trickled down into the shared pool of petrolhead opinions and tainted our minds. Now I love drag racing as much as the next guy and definitely do not intend to diminish the achievements of the 2jz. But there is SO MUCH MORE to an engine than it's ability to not fall apart under ridiculous amounts of boost. Saying engine A is better than engine B because it can survive 1000hp longer is like saying CAR A is better than CAR B because it doesn't overheat as fast when idling at 5000 rpm in the middle of the desert.
So today I'm going to try and enlighten you and explain why as a man of culture you should prefer the RB over the 2JZ.

So the official full engine code of our engine is RB26DETT. 26 is obviously the displacement. 2.6 liters. D is DOHC or dual overhead camshaft, E is electronic fuel injection and the two Ts represent the twin turbos fitted to the engine. So what does RB stand for? Some will tell you it's response and balance or even rhythm and balance. In reality it stands for nothing. It's just two letters designating an engine series like SR, VG, JZ or anything else. But despite this I like to think that RB stands for race bred – because it would really be fitting.
To learn where the RB26 comes from we have to look back at the Japanese Touring Car Championship or JTCC. Now throughout its life the Japanese touring car championship would be held under numerous different regulations, including FIA's Group A regulation and would be known under various different names, but it was always Japan's premiere touring car championship, the cream of the crop for touring car racing in Japan, a place where manufacturers could demonstrate the capabilities of their cars and earn the reputation needed to boost sales. Basically the JTCC, later JGTC and finally Super GT was to Japan and much of Asia what DTM was to Germany and Europe.
Now the 1987 and 1988 seasons of the JTCC were both won by a Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth and even though Nissan succeeded in winning the 1989 season with the Skyline GTS-R they had realized well before that their car is becoming less and less competitive. It had roughly the same weight but was down on power compared to the Sierra. So well before 1989 Nissan started to work on a car that had one goal: To obliterate the competition in the Japanese touring car championship.
Naganori Ito was appointed as the Chief engineer and Kozo Watanabe as the chief experiment engineer for this project. Now the R32 project was a bit of a personal vendetta for chief engineer Ito. The previous generation of the Skyline, the R31, was seen as a failure from long-time skyline owners, enthusiasts and car critics in Japan and Ito bore the brunt of this criticism. Interestingly enough Ito only had to put his name on the R31 project because he was suddenly assigned to it and asked to finish it due to the fact that the original chief engineer Shinichiro Sakurai had fallen ill.
So to clear his name he insisted to be allowed to lead the R32 project from the very beginning.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

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#d4a #iconicengines #rb26

00:00 Men of culture
01:53 History
10:34 Specs
15:07 Tuning
23:11 Cringe

TWO STROKE resurrection - Yamaha TZR gets a new lease of life

driving 4 answers 2021-11-21 | So the story about this little project. I actually picked this bike up as a little side project for myself and to share on Patreon.

The bike is a Yamaha TZR 125R from 1994. It's a pretty rare bike that wasn't actually made by Yamaha but by Belgarda, which was Yamaha's distributor in Italy back in the 90s. The VIN of the bike doesn't actually say Yamaha, it says Belgarda. As far as I know these were never officially exported outside Europe. The 125cc market was a big deal back in the 90s and there's a whole history chapter there. These bikes together with the Honda NSRs, Suzuki RG125, Aprilia RS125 and a few other bikes were the most desirable thing a learner could want. They were the stuff of teenage dreams. Pretty expensive though so all the kids wanted them but only the rich kids actually had them. Despite the minuscule displacement this bike allegedly churns out 32 horsepower, probably at like 200 rpm before it's 11.000 rpm redline. The bike code is 4DL and the 4DL engines are very sought after because they were manually modified by Belgarda before install. The engine is actually a Minarelli unit with very obvious signs of hand porting on parts of the cylinder.

This video is made of up of bits and pieces of 4 separate videos I made on Patreon over the past months. I actually bought the bike without properly testing it or anything. Rented a car with a tow hook and a trailer and drove around 300 km to pick it up. I got to the location in the middle of the night in the pouring rain so I really couldn't properly inspect anything. So I just bought it. I expected a runner but it wasn't.

After a lot of troubleshooting trying to start the bike I realized that it actually had very low compression and that likely something was wrong with the engine so I decided to get the engine out which is an absolute joy to do. Takes about 30 minutes. Once it was opened up we found that inside it was an absolute horror job. Someone attempted to rebuild the engine but had no idea what they were doing. The piston was installed in the wrong direction (even though there's very obvious notches to show you where it's supposed to go) and because of this the little pins that hold the rings in place where in the wrong place so they eventually got knocked off and made a massive gouge line in the cylinder which ruined the compression and the engine. The crankshaft width was also set incorrectly and the crankshaft nose was bent by someone who didn't know how to remove the magneto from it properly. So we fixed all of that. The cylinder couldn't be saved but fortunately I managed to get a new one, got a brand new over-sized piston, had the new cylinder re-bored (fortunately the 4DL engines aren't Nikasil), got all new gaskets, a new starter and put it all back together.

Some of you might be wondering what happened with my Kawasaki GPZ 900R project. Sadly I had to sold that bike. Reason number one is that it was far too much bike for someone with next to zero riding experience. Reason number two is that I discovered that the frame was bent so I sold it for parts.

I think this bike will be less dangerous and should allow me to experience the joys of motorcycling in a manner more suitable to my skill. I think the bike is pretty cool as it echoes a really cool era and I kinda always wanted a two stroke.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

Patreon: patreon.com/d4a

#d4a #2stroke #twostroke