Wray Schelins ProShaper Workshop
I Tested the X1 Pro Laser Welder - Heres What Happened
updated
This is Tim's final video for this year as he is taking everything back with him to Australia. We enjoyed having him here and hope to see him again next year!
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1948 Studebaker Future Car Build
Andrew from New Zealand has been at the shop for 3 weeks and has been working on the 1948 Studebaker Future Car designed by Virgil Exner. Andrew worked on the front nose section using aluminum. He made 4 panels and then TIG welded the section together. When he finished welding, he planished the weld using a slapper and dolly.
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English wheeling Aluminum panels 1979 Firebird Part 2
Tim explains what's been going on for the past 2 weeks in the shop. He discusses how taking thing front end apart revealed a lot more rust than one would like. He gives an overview of how he takes the panels from the car, uses the flexible shape pattern and gauges to copy the surface information of each panel. Then presents the 10 panels he has created so far which when welded together will become the front fenders completed in aluminum or Aluminium as the Aussies say.
We hope you enjoy these updates, it's hard to record all the work being done as I also have normal work to do in the shop. If there is something specific you want to see or learn more about please leave it in the comments below and I'll try to get that up for you all!
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Reviving a Classic 1979 Firebird Restoration Project
Join us on this fascinating journey as Tim, an Australian Churchill Fellow, embarks on a unique car restoration project at the Pro Shaper Workshop in Charlton, Massachusetts.
Tim takes on the ambitious task of restoring a 1979 Firebird, originally from Kentucky, adding his own twist by incorporating aluminum components. This isn't your typical patch panel repair; instead, it's an exploration of new techniques and methods.
From the front bumper to the door skin and guards, watch as Tim and Wray discuss their strategies to bring this classic car back to life, all while overcoming the hurdles of a rust bucket. Along the way, they'll share their experiences, insights, and the cultural significance of this iconic car. Stay tuned for a series of videos documenting the transformation of this Firebird, as well as insights into the diverse projects the Pro Shaper team engages in.
Join us on this incredible journey as Wray Schelin, a master metal shaper, shares his knowledge and expertise with Julien Garant over a 24-day workshop at the renowned ProShaper facility. In this detailed video, you'll witness the intricate process of shaping, forming, and welding a Maserati 300S rear section using aluminum as the primary material.
Follow along as Wray imparts valuable skills and techniques, transforming Julien into a skilled craftsman ready to tackle the world of classic car restoration. From the initial shaping stages to the finishing touches, you'll see it all as we dive deep into the world of metal shaping and customization for this iconic Maserati model.
Whether you're an automotive enthusiast, a professional restorer, or someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, this video is a must-watch! Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more content on metal shaping and restoration from the ProShaper workshop.
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Tail section of a 3 Wheel Cycle Car
Alvro and AJ did great on their first panels. First time they ever used an English wheel.
Sorry for the delay in our videos, we have been bombarded with work and it just keeps coming.
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Tig welding aluminum
This is a quick video Wray did with his student who wanted to learn TIG welding. He only had a few hours previously with a TIG welder and he definitely improved his skills. Does it pass the stress test?
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Porsche 550 Dash Build (Part 10) Making this part
Now that we have 3 panels made for the dash, we are tackling one of the last parts. We start off how we always do, taking the flexible shape pattern off the panel, cutting a blank out of aluminum sheet, then using the F.S.P. wheel out the area value of the panel. Hope you're all happy now that we're back!
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B-29 Turret Resurrection
Van from Quest Masters Museum http://questmasters.us came to the shop for our latest 4-day coachbuilding class. What he brought in was incredible and a complete mess. Over the last 4 days he beat the turret into submission, then used the English wheel to smooth it all out. By the last day it looked as if he brought in a whole new piece!
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Metal Shaping Flexible Shape Pattern Power
This episode features an extended learning student from Canada named Ian. Ian has a 1959 MGA Twin Can and he wanted to learn how to make a pair of fenders. He has an English Wheel at home but he wasn't very proficient with it which is why he came to ProShaper. Wray had him make a flexible shape pattern of the fender he already has and then off he went. You can see in the video how well his fender (or half fender) came out!
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Alfa GTV Hood Shrinking Disc Follow Up
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Metal Shaping Buck Comparisons
In this video Wray talks with Ken a student of ours discussing the finer points of the Wire form vs. Wood Buck vs. a Flexible Shape Pattern. The rule is, if you have the panel available then the Flexible Shape Pattern is the way to go. If you're recreating the buck from a picture then choose a wire form. It's cheaper to build, you can always change the flow by cutting the wire, fixing it and re-welding it back in.
Now when fitting a panel to the buck you'll notice you can see how it fits whereas on a wood buck it's difficult to clamp a panel to it and if you do, it's hard to see.
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Here is a short of our latest video showing the magic of the shrinking disc!
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Shrinking Disc Magic
Hey all, sorry for the delay in our videos. The last 5 weeks or so we've had 3 classes and several students stay for our 130 Hour shop special. During this class however we have a student who brought in an Alfa GTV hood that has a lot of high and low spots. Instead of chasing them with a slapper and dolly Wray took out the shrinking disc to show the magic behind it.
As you can see he probably used it for about 3 minutes and took out 95% of the highs and lows. There is still a few spots we need to chase but this video is just to show how in a short amount of time you can bring back a panel to it's original shape.
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Super complicated metal shaping: Porsche 550 Dash (Part 9)
We're back on the Porsche 550 Dash! Last episode Wray tac welded the top of the dash together and now wants to start making the lower portion of the dash. Of course we start where we always do and that's having made a flexible shape pattern and gauges.
With this information we cut out a sheet metal blank, larger than the F.S.P. to accommodate for the flanges and allowing for a little "cheat room". Now this part of the Porsche dash is rather tricky as it has all kinds of curves, a few bends and several flanges.
Wray starts by stretching the edges with a beater bag and metal shaping mallet. Then planishing it out on the English wheel, he also starts to arrange the panel. To add the curve on the side he uses a shrinker/stretcher and the gauge as to not over do it. We end up in a great spot at the end, however the tipped edge towards the bottom of the dash may need to be re-tipped as the line slightly moved. We hope you enjoy it, Metal is Clay and have a good day!
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Metalshaping: 550 Porsche Dash Subassembly
We are at the point of welding. Wray instructs us on how he ensures the panels are clamped together in the correct spot. If you meet the two panels, and they're off just a little it can have a major impact on the end.
He adjusts the dash and corrected my (Mark) radius zone on the flexible shape pattern and added a few weld lines and now how tac welds the panels together using the Everlast welder. I try a few different lenses to see which one worked best and have decided to try a neutral density filter so hopefully our next welding video will show the weld puddle better.
Also thank you all for subscribing to Alison's channel, we greatly appreciate all your support!
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Metal Shaping sometimes equals chess
Porsche 550 Dash (Part 7)
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Boring Alert!
This video has a lot of everything in it but is very tedious. You'll see that when we change the arrangement on one end, it changes the arrangement on the other side so it is very much like a chess game.
Wray mostly focuses on the area around the instrument panel to make sure the flow is correct and identical to the panel from Bruce. Using the English Wheel we planish out the hammer blows and by the end Wray decided that the next video will be welding the two panels together to stiffen up the middle. Once we do that, arranging the panel won't be so much of an issue.
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Metal Shaping a Porsche 550 Dash (Part 6): Perfecting Details
In this episode of the Porsche 550 Dash Wray is perfecting the details. Wray starts by heat shrinking some high spots in the panel and by doing so he is able to add the valley on either side of the dash. Using the caulking tool, Wray moves the valley over to the correct location and the using the shrinker/stretcher kick stretches to add more are to the panel. Lots of tweaks in this video, Wray always said the last 10% of the job is 90% of the work.
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Metal Shaping a Porsche 550 dash (Part 5)
Back on the Porsche 550 Dash. In this video Wray is refining the dash with the English Wheel, a delrin tool and a metal shaping mallet. He uses the flexible shape pattern to show any deficiencies that need more attention and locates 5 spots to work on.
Frank stops by to give us a hand and a few laughs. Wray talks about an old student of his who built something rather remarkable and we say farewell to our friend Ed.
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Porsche 550 Dash Sculpting with a Mallet
Back on the Porsche Dash! Wray keeps filling out the flexible shape pattern using the Metal Shaping Mallet and beater bag. He planishes it out using the English Wheel and then adds the details using a delrin hand tool. As you can see this is very time consuming which is why we need to go slow. One of Wray's many phrases is
"Hit, check, hit, check. and Not, Hit Hit Hit, check, oops"
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1932 Studebaker Indy car racer replica
Gary Ash, from Massachusetts showed up at my shop with a dream about 4 years ago. He started taking coachbuilding/ metal shaping classes from me and at the class he worked on building his own 1932 Studebaker Indy car racer replica.
Previously, he had traveled to see several of the original six cars that were built, gathered folders and a laptop full of pictures and drawings. He had located a shop in Indiana that could make him a frame according to a drawing he had found in his searches. He had the correct style wire wheels, hubs, and knockoffs custom made in England. He had collected the correct Studebaker straight 8 engine, transmission, and rear end. All had to be rebuilt and modified.
After getting most of the chassis sorted out he came to my shop to learn how to make the aluminum body. I suggested that he make a wireform to get started and then take my class. At the class he got busy and also had some help from some of the other students.
Gary is now in the "I finished my project and I'm enjoying the hell out of it phase" Here are a few pictures of the build at my shop and his recent video of him taking his grandkids for a ride in his now registered Studebaker Indy racer. I'm sure his grandkids will get as much a thrill and inspiration from the ride in their grandfather's racer as Gary got from pursuing his dream to it's conclusion.
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Metal Shaping a Porsche 550 Dash (Part 3)
It's been a hot past few weeks but the heat wave has broke and we're back to filming! We still have the Porsche 550 dash and need to complete a copy of it before it leaves the shop. Since we shaped the other half of the Porsche dash, we are now working on the other side with the instrument panel.
We already made the Flexible shape pattern and gauges so we cut out a blank piece of sheet metal about an inch larger than the F.S.P. this ensure we have a little cheat room.
Wray start by hammering out the top of the instrument panel with a metal shaping mallet and beater bag. He smooths out the bumps with our big English Wheel and also use the small English Wheel for the valley. This video is just the gross development of the panel, once it fits the flexible shape pattern Wray will change the arrangement values and confirm it using the gauges. We hope you enjoy and thanks for all your support!
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Planishing Aluminum: Austin Healey Shroud
We aren't back on the Healey but we're back on the Healey. In this video Wray has a hand planishing hammer that acts as a power slapper. He tried it out on steel and wasn't entirely sold but he knew it would move Aluminum. So taking Dykem and spraying it on the shroud and then using a hand file to spot the highs and lows. He then takes a dolly and the hand planisher and in 2 minutes you can see how well this tool actually worked. To do any of the fine details Wray will just use a slapper and dolly. He always says the last 10% of the job is 90% of the work.
Hand Planishing Hammer
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Metal Finishing a 1933 Ford Fender
In this video Wray shows us how he takes out the small dents on these 1933 Ford Fenders. First he had to sand off all the primer which helped show the low and high spots. He will also use Dykem if the dented area is large but will use a magic marker for smaller areas.
Then he will use a file to file down the dykem, revealing the areas that he has to chase with a slapper and dolly. After he will take the 5" shrinking disc and a spray bottle of soapy water then run it over the area of the fender to bring the high spots down.
There is still work that needs to be done on the front fender section but with some planishing and patience it will be good as new!
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33 Ford Fender (Part 3) The Patch Panel
This video has it all! Now that the Ford fender wire has been repaired, it's time to create the patch panel. Now when we weld the patch panel in, we want to make sure that the fender matches the other fender. To do this Wray fabricates a bar that fits perfectly inside the good fender and then bolt it into the fender we are fixing. This ensures that when we weld, it won't shrink back into itself.
The thickness of the steel is 19 gauge. Wray cuts out a piece about a half inch larger all around the flexible shape pattern to give him a little cheat room. Wray created another Gauge going across the fender to make sure it flows correctly from front to back and left to right.
Using all the information we have Wray slowly massages the patch panel with his hands to give it a slight radius. To make sure the crown is correct, Wray uses our ProShaper Mallet and a leather beater bag to add area to the center of the panel.
Wray cleans up the panel while adding a little more area using our English wheels, both large and small. Now that the panel matches the gauges, Wray uses the tipping wheel to add the bead down at the bottom.
Once this is all complete Wray slowly grinds away the excess material allowing for a tight fit. He finishes it up by tacking that patch panel to the fender and that's it for this video.
The video on Friday will so how we metal finish the weld, fix any dents and by the end it should look perfect!
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33 Ford Fender repair (Part 2): Forensic Files
In this video we cut out the rotted piece of the 33 ford fender. Wray slows carves away the metal that's wrapped around the wired edge being careful not to cut the actual wire. Once it all cut away we see where the wire split which caused the fender to be pushed in the front about 5/8".
Wray cleans up the wire removing the rust and then using our Vulcan tig welder he welds the wire back together ensuring the fender is the correct length. He then cold forges the welded wire using a body dolly and hammer.
Once it's all welded Wray confirms the the bead flows exactly like the other fender using the Flexible shape pattern. By this point it is 11pm and we were beat so the next episode will be creating and welding the patch panel in.
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1933 Ford Fender Repair
I hope this intrigues all of our viewers. We wanted to finish the Alfa fender but we have something more important to do and we have a limited time to finish it. So here we have 2 1933 Ford Fenders which were repaired at some point but as you can see, the repair needs to be repaired.
There is a patch that was put on the inside of the fender overlapping the original skin. On the front side of the fender we can see a lot of holes and micro dents. To fix this Wray starts out with a gauge showing the opening of the fender and comparing it to the fender that needs the most work. The gauge doesn’t fit the second fender as it seems the front has pushed the fender in.
Now that we measured everything it’s time to make a flexible shape pattern and gauges. Wray explains how he does it, which is a nice change for me as I just get to film him doing it. Once the flexible shape pattern has been made, Wray compares it to the fender that needs work and it is confirmed that they don’t match.
To see what’s going on with the bead, Wray uses his shrinker / stretcher and a 1” strip of sheet metal and stretches it to match the bead. Again, when we compare it to the other fender we see that the bead dips down.
Tomorrow we will cut out the rotted section of the fender and replace it with a patch panel to make both fenders match.
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English Wheeling made simple (Part 3)
Were back on the 67' Alfa Duetto Fender. Wray introduced the fender on the first part of the series, where he made a small patch panel for the lower section. Then when describing the top part of the fender with a large radius, he shows that using a low crown lower anvil on the English Wheel can achieve the correct result instead of starting with a high crown.
In the last episode Wray started to work on the top part of the fender but couldn't complete it because we ran out of time. So in this episode Wray shows how to fix the wiggle on the edge of the panel, how to fill out the area value and confirming with the flexible shape pattern.
At the end of this video Wray uses his magic touch and puts the panel into arrangement using nothing but his belly and hands as a fulcrum and lever.
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Back in 2005 Dick Bear took my metalshaping/coachbuilding class. Dick had the desire to scratch-build a car. He brought along to the the class a model of a McLaren M8B. At the class we scaled up one of the front fenders and proceeded to make it. Two years later Dick had built a street legal complete car in North Carolina where he was living. After he finished that car he had so much fun in the process he decided to build a Lola inspired Indy racer. This one is street legal as well. The McLaren Dick built he drove across country several times putting 50000 miles on it. The Lola he drove about 7000 miles. My friend Fred is now the steward of the Lola and he delights in bringing it to local car shows. He loves to let little kids sit in it and see the smiles that are created. Fred stopped by the shop on his way home with the Lola and did a few laps around my circular driveway. He is thinking of bringing it to the local track in Palmer, MA and taking some high speed laps. Dick built two impressive and beautiful race cars that make memories instantly in everyone that sees them.
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English Wheeling made Simple (Part 2)
Part one discussed making a patch panel for this Alfa Romeo fender. We built up the area of the sheet metal only using the low crown anvil on our English Wheel. In this video, Wray using the #2 low crown anvil shows that you can make the top part of the fender without needing to start with a high radius lower anvil.
We could use a metal shaping mallet to bump up the area, but where is the fun in that. It's only because we started filming so late that we had to wrap up, there will be a second part next week showing the full area and arrangement values.
If you want we can add the detail work to it.
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So I'm finishing a Flexible shape pattern on an Alfa Fender for tonight's video when I hear Wray across the shop say "I'm a genius". So Naturally I grab the camera and go over to see what Wray has done now.
It's actually a pretty good tip!
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English Wheeling Made Simple
Since the last video we've done, we've gained a plethora of new subscribers so we went back to the basics and created another English Wheel video using our "Youtube English Wheel".
In this video Wray discusses the good and the bad between different English Wheel frames and what you should expect. Wray then goes over the differences between an Upper adjuster and lower adjuster and why he prefers one to the other. He explains the different radiused lower anvils and when you should use them and finally he brings on a real world example using an Alfa Romeo fender.
There are certain parts on a car that rust, especially where we live. He shows a portion of a fender where if it were rusted and we were making a patch panel for it, how to go about it.
We hope you enjoyed this video, let us know in the comments if there is anything else you want to see in the part 2 version of the English Wheel.
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How to weld Aluminum Sheet Tig Vs. Gas
We have a lot going on in the shop these last few months but I think we're finally back to doing 2 videos a week. This video is to compare and contrast the differences between tig welding and gas welding Aluminum sheet. Wray grabbed a scrap piece, cut it down the middle and welded one half of the panel using the TIG welder and the second half using a gas welder. We then proceed to the stress test to see if the welds hold up. Mind you the welds are perfectly fine when you fit the panel to the car. We're just showing through the use of a mallet how much stress the welds can take before they break.
We hope you enjoy this video and if there is anything else you might want to see please let us know!
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Naval Jelly:
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Muriatic Acid:
amzn.to/3JXjj9Z
More Rust Removal Secrets
We're back. Wray has been providing little snippets of the things going on in the shop. Now that we have some time, we are making videos again. I had pulled out a fender that had some serious rust and Wray in his infinite wisdom decided to make a comparison video using Muriatic Acid, Naval Jelly and Phosphoric acid and see which works the fastest.
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Eric had some time so he polished, tuned, and modified his favorite body hammers, here are the results.
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My student Jason tipping the joggle on the aluminum VW gocart hood
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Silicon Bronze Shaping and Secrets
Last episode you'll remember Wray was working on a piece of silicon bronze. Today we show you what we've been making. It's a large sing valnce with a smaller sink bowl inside. Wray discusses the different techniques of annealing the silicon bronze to help work the metal. He then uses the shop power hammer to add area, then over to the english wheel to smooth it all out.
We talk about a few youtube channels you should check out as well.
Armor Templates
youtube.com/c/DavidGuyton
Tom Lipton
youtube.com/user/oxtoolco
Repousse
youtube.com/c/douglaspryor
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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Metal Shaping Silicon Bronze .070" Thick
Wray is working on an architectural job using silicon bronze .070 thick, it’s super stiff and you can’t just wheel it out so he is using the Maglio (Helve Hammer) and that powers it out then using the power hammer to smooth the panel and then onto the English wheel for the finish smoothing. Eventually it will go back to the power hammer where we will put a hammered finish with a special die. This process shows how Wray uses the flexible shape pattern to determine where and how much to hit in order to expand the panel to where it needs to be, to accept the 2 compound curves it needs.
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This past weekend we had our 4-day metal shaping class. We have a few students who decided on our 130 hour program and have been making some amazing progress on their projects. Simon and Ed are from England, Simon has been working on a motorcycle gas tank. He made a beautiful wire form and using Wrays flexible shape pattern as a guide shaped beautiful panels for his tank. Ed has been working on the "arm pit section" of his Stearman plane that apparently you just can't find parts for. Ed and simon have become super stars in the shop. Next we go over to Ed on his Austin Healey and see the tremendous progress he and the students have made. We then go over to our 10-day apprentice winner Jason who has been coming back at least 3 times a week to finish what he started. I think we ruined Jason because he just never wants to leave. Finally we hop on over to Gilles and look at his beautiful Talbot Lago and his plans for the future of it.
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Metal Shaping Refinement of the Porsche 550 Dash
In this latest installment, Wray is refining the Porsche dash so that the gauges fit the panel. We do this using a leather face slapper and wood dolly to roll the radius back. However, at 9 minutes into the video the sound cuts out completely leaving me to try to narrate as best as I can so please be kind. Wray confirms with the gauges to make sure he isn't going to far back with the radius. He double checks the panel using the flexible shape pattern and notices we need a little more stretch at the end. Using the stretching dies for the shrinker stretcher, Wray carefully stretches the metal and brings the end of the panel further back than 90 degrees and ensures it flows correctly. Thanks for your understanding I hope I did the video justice with my voice over work.
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Our friend Adam who owns a shop called Unobtanium graciously lent us a Porsche 550 for 2 weeks. We have one being built in the shop but we don't have all the information. With Adam's car here we are trying to gather as much of the information as possible through flexible shape patterns and gauges.
Wray really wanted the dash of the Porsche so that was our first focus. I made a flexible shape pattern and gauges of the full dash and made it into 4 sections. With the information Wray cut out a blank piece of sheet metal, and through the flexible shape pattern shows you what needs to happen.
He starts by wheeling the panel with the English Wheel just to give it the right amount of area value. Once this is achieved, he then stretches the edge of the panel where it dives in. He shows 3 different methods to achieve the desired result.
He stretches the metal via a body hammer and a rubber mat. He also shows the same thing can happen with the body hammer and clay. He also anneals the edge with a torch and takes it to the planishing hammer. You see by the end of the video that the Flexible shape pattern is filling out and the panel is taking shape.
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Today we are doing something a little different. A while back Wray bought a bunch of blacksmithing tools and body hammers. They we all severely rusted. So we put them in rust 911 solution for 24 hours, cleaned them off and them wire brushed them. Now Wray is going to tune the body hammers, put them on a wooden handle and then paint them red.
He grinds the hammer head starting with 50 grit and going all the way to 1200 to give it a nice polished look. Puts the head on the handle and using Rustoleum red paint, paints the head and voila, it's ready for the window at Tiffany's.
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In this video Wray continues to planish out the "Crinkle Wrinkles" in the shroud. He starts by heating up any high spots in the aluminum shroud and hits them back with a hammer and soft body dolly. He also shows how his grinding technique is the preferred method as he only grinds the weld and not so much the parent metal. He continues back on to hammer planishing and also using the slapper, he switches between the two to hit a localized area and then also a wider area. We probably have 1 or 2 more videos left on the shroud and then onto the Talbot Lago!
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Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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