bap8guy
ESI RV622 VOLTAGE DIVIDER
updated
It was a relatively expensive device when new. To give an understanding of this, I submit that Tegram still sells a similar device for about $5,000. If anyone has information on the original price, I would appreciate that you share the information.
Devices like this are useful for calibration, or calibration checks of voltmeters (I use a HP34401A in the video), or can provide a reference voltage (for extremely high input impedance inputs) that could be used in power supplies etc. It can also translate voltages, dividing them down to some usable level (for example, I have a high input impedance 1V meter, but want to measure 10v or 100v).
This unit was purchased, tested, taken apart, internally and externally cleaned, painted, rebuilt and tested on video (for you to view). It is an extraordinary device, even after all these years!
It is a solid 3 decade capacitance substitution unit, capable of covering from .001mf to 1mf in 1000 switch select-able steps. The voltage rating is up to 500v dc.
When it arrived, I saw the cord was cut off of the unit, but could find nothing else that was obviously defective. I replaced the cord, plugged it in and turned it on, only to blow my GFI.
I reset the GFI and tried again, with the same response. There was only the primary side of the transformer and a fuse/power switch on the electrical inlet. I checked for shorts, even high resistance ones, but found nothing. I looked at the schematic and saw that the transformer had a shield wire on the primary and figured it was possible that enough current collected there to set off the GFI. I know, with some experience, that some of the older equipment has been known to trigger GFIs. I connected the unit to my isolation transformer and turned it on, and everything worked fine. No blown fuse, no problems noticeable anywhere. So, I started looking for a small isolation transformer, found one and ordered it.
When the isolation transformer arrived, I decided how to best hook it up into the circuit. I kept the fuse and power switch on the primary input side of the isolation transformer and hooked the secondary to the existing transformer input.
That all worked fine! Now to test it’s operation and ranges.
Pulling out my Keithley 225 current source and connecting it to the input, I began to check the zero and span on each of the ranges. I found that the 414S switches were a bit erratic, so I shut everything down and gave them a good cleaning. I went back to checking the ranges. I found about half were out of spec (+/-) 2 to 4%, placing the span on the range either low, or high, by 2 to 4 least significant digits on the meter. Altogether, there were 7 range resistors that were out of tolerance. I determined which of the resistors I had on hand, and then replaced the range resistors in the unit with them, each time finding the results to be satisfactory. I then ordered the remainder of the resistors, except for the lowest two ranges, which required a 1% 10Gig ohm resistor (these cost about $100 each). It was at this point I realized that I had no satisfactory means to measure the 10G ohm resistor on my bench. Something I needed to remedy! (See “Extreme Resistance Instrument”.) When the resistors showed up to the house, I installed them in place of the defective resistors (on the appropriate ranges) and again saw good, satisfactory results. Finally I got down the .1na range ( 100 picoamps). I did not want to spend over $100 on a new 10G, 1% resistor. I noted that the reading was low about 3% of the meter span. I calculated that 3% of 10G would be about 300M ohm. But, am I 300M ohm low, or high in resistance on the 10G ohm? I looked at the schematic and saw that there was a “op amp” circuit that fed off the voltage drop across the input resistors R123 and R124. In the 10G (.1na) it was only R124. R123, R124 and R125 all measured good. In order to “push” a tiny bit more current through R124 and get the 3% greater reading, I would need to increase the resistance of R122 (10G) by 300M ohm. I found a suitable 300M ohm resistor on Ebay for about $8 shipped and I ordered it.
Getting to R122 is difficult, unless you remove the suppression range switch assembly. That assembly is held in by a wire, an aluminum wire rod, and a hex nut under the knob.
With those removed, the suppression assembly slid right out and I had (mostly) unobstructed access to R122. I cut one end of R122, and pulled it outward somewhat. I decided to first put a shrink tubing around R122, to act as an additional insulator to the 300M resistor I was installing in series with it. Then I made little wire extensions to the 300M ohm resistor leads, which I coated with shrink tubing as well, leaving both ends protruding from out of one end of the resistor. Then I slid a large tube shrink tubing around R122 and the 300M resistor, leaving the cut end of R122 and both ends of the 300M resistor protruding. I connected one lead of the 300M resistor to the open end of R122, and pulled the connection to the side, getting it away from the other 300M lead. Then I connected the remaining 300M lead to the switch wafer-connector that the R122 used to connect to. I heated the shrink tubing and it was done. Finally, I reinstalled the suppression switch unit and buttoned up the case.
I plugged the unit in, fed a .1nA signal into it, and dialed the range switch down to the last two range settings of .3nA and .1nA. The meter dial responded satisfactorily now! At this most sensitive level, I did notice that the unit is very sensitive to any movement of my body nearby, as I took the readings.
We give a quick tour of the unit, inspect the interior, determine the inputs and operational controls. We then integrate current from a standard to see if the resultant coulomb value is as expected, then we use it to measure capacitance of capacitors (some very large ie- 20,000Mfd).
The VBF-8 is a dual filter unit, each configurable as either a low pass or high pass filter with a 3 digit dial in setpoint that covers .01Hz to 99.9Khz in range, using a 5 position range switch. It has an input impedance of 1Meg ohm, 2% cuttoff accuracy, low noise, two position gain switch, an output monitor for each unit, and a 50 ohm output. An additional function switch allows for the filters to be placed in series (for bandpass) and parallel (for notch filtration).
These are very high end units with remarkable performance.
In the video I introduce the VBF-8, walk you around the unit and demonstrate it's use in a couple of scenarios.
In this video I introduce the unit, walk you around it, demonstrate it's use and precision. Towards the videos end I demonstrate it's use in setting up and testing the effectiveness of a .145Hz infrasonic filter, where a 1/10th hz change in frequency makes a dramatic change in output voltage.
This unit will be accompanied by a CD service manual.
The 1162 is being tested at 100Hz, using a DER5000 as the standard. The test results are on the video.
DECADE INDUCTOR
.01Hy to 11.11Hy in .01Hy Steps
3 Decades
Nice looking unit, Mahogany case, functioning beautifully!
Better than 1.5% accuracy (measured at 100Hz) on all steps
Most steps are better than 1%.
Probably from the late 1950's / early 1960's.
The Wavetek 103 is an all transistor device that provides triangle, sine, and square wave outputs, with adjustable amplitude up to 30v p-p. It also has two more specialized fast risetime square wave outputs (one as fast as 5nS risetime).
It is an attractive, nicely packaged amplifier for your bench.
This unit was damaged in delivery, but was brought back to the shape displayed. It will be sold for parts, or repair.
The video demonstrates this beauty in several cases.
Despite problems with hysteresis met in voltage adjustment, I am getting about 10.00000 +/- .000005 microvolts (maybe a bit less normally). By carefully (and patiently) adjusting the temperature control, .1 degree C at a time, I have been able to center the voltage so that it seldom travels out of it's 10.00000v output.
I have utilized a fairly large heat sink to dissipate/ distribute the heat across components of the board. I have also reduced the wattage of my original heat plate to slow down the reaction time needed by the temperature controller. Additionally, I inserted a diode in one of the heater plates leads to remove an additional half of the heater voltage, slowing down the heating process even further. The results have improved with each step.
In this film I introduce you to the means by which I was able to make this happen, in a most pleasant way!
This 1,000 ohm Helipot has large power handling capacity (5W), excellent linearity (.05%), and it came with a really unique 10 turn dial system! This combination makes for some desirable uses!
It is a variable resistor from about 0 to 1000 ohms and it can handle up to 5w. This means it can be a temporary replacement for very large number of resistors, with no fear. This also means that it can be used in a voltage divider circuit. Place 1 volt across it, and take your voltage off the tap and you will be able to adjust for a voltage from about 0 to 1v (with .001a flowing through the pot, generating .001w). Put 10v across it and do the same, and now you have 0 to 10v available (wattage is now .01w). Place another resistor in series with the unit and voltage source and you can extend the range, or "tune in the dial" calibration. See the video for a better explanation.
The unit is an excellent piece of equipment to utilize with a stable precision voltage source, like 1v or 10v. It will then provide a user selectable division of the voltage that will remain precise so long as the unit measuring the output does not load it. I would recommend nothing less than 10 meg ohms, but would prefer a gig or more of load impedance. In the case of the video, I used an HP34401A set to 10 gig ohms of input impedance. The resulting output voltages can be used to calibrate, or test a volt meters over a wide range of voltages.
In this video, I introduce the unit, connect it to a 9.9999v stable input voltage and test the output of every step of 5 decades against the input dials. I then build a spreadsheet of the results and go over the results on the video.
It is a unit that has the potential to determine resistances from micro-ohms to 12,000 megohms in value, to better than .01%.
In the video, I introduce the unit, open it up, show the interior, discuss the cleaning of the components and then I test the unit. Using 3, .01% tolerance resistances, I measure them using the 230B and also my HP34401A and then I compare the readings. The 230B comes out a champ!
The regulator board claims to be good to 1A, however there is not sufficient cooling for the regulators on the board. As a result, the positive regulator failed during testing and required replacement. I also have de-rated the supply to .5A until additional cooling can be installed.
The video is a review of what has been done.
I ran across an inexpensive digital device that reads Voltage, Current and calculates and reads Wattage, all to 5 digits. So, I bought one.
By itself it is difficult to use. You must supply power, provide positive and negative voltage sense and pass the current through the current terminals. That is a lot of wiring and mess. So, you need to box all that up into a usable tool. That is the gist of this video. Making a useable tool from a low price gadget!
The whole project is based around a 5 decimal place 10v reference source purchased from Gurauv Singh of Germany. I have had this unit for about a year, just waiting for me to get around to it.
The LM399 board needs a clean stable source of 15v power and what I have used is a low noise power supply I cobbled together in an earlier project, based upon an LT3042 regulator.
The LM399 board is temperature sensitive, so i decided to try and control the environment of the board. I had purchased an "egg incubator" temperature controller and a heating element from Ebay some time ago, for a good price. So, I cobbled together an enclosure big enough for the board, heating element, heat sink, and two temperature sensors.
"As a side note, if you use one of these temperature controllers, practice setting the temperatures before using it on the board. Any mistakes in programming can send the unit into soaring temperature."
I used a fairly large heat sink to absorb and more evenly distribute the heat from the controller/heating plate and to provide more temperature stability. The top temperature sensor gives me more of an idea of what is happening at the hot plate, and the lower sensor what is seen at the board level. There is a time lag between what the temperature controller sensor "sees" and the amount of heat stored withing the heating plate. So, I "pulse" the heat, applying only a minimum amount and then waiting for the overall effect. I have both the on and off point set to the same temperature. So, when the temperature falls to the "on" point, the heating plate comes on and heats the heat sink and sensor. When the sensor "sees" the off temperature point, it stops heating the plate and waits until the temperature sensor falls back down to the "on" point again. I am seeing as much as 2+ degrees C change between the set-point and the maximum temperature at the controller temperature sensor. The temperature sensor at the board varies little.
Taking the output of the LM399 board to the input of the DV411 divider, I could now divide the incoming voltage into desired decimal amounts over 5 decades.
Testing of the unit was made with encouraging success!
I will be using this unit as the divider for an upcoming 5 decimal place Voltage Reference project, soon to be published.
This gives me the capability to quickly check the linearity of my capacitance measuring devices over a large range of capacitance. Also, because they are precision Polystyrene capacitors I have a wide range of low leakage capacitance for use in filter design, integrators, sample hold scenarios etc.
It was an easy, fun and rewarding little project, that I thought I would share.
The video goes through my choice of box, schematic design and then construction. It turned out really nice. Thought it might stir someone else into a new project!
I read in the manual that you can build a "T" Attenuator that can shunt precisely 90% of the power around the GR1840A, giving it a 200W range. I decided to build a pair of these units to give each of my 1840A's 200W capability, but could I do it?
In the video I explain how I went about ordering parts and analyzing the imperfections these parts had to the desired design. In the end I have a very nice 200W setup, verified using 2 different methods.
Unlike many of my videos, this is not to sell something on Ebay. but to document a project I have recently undertaken.
This General Radio 1454A is an excellent 4 decade Kelvin Varley Divider manufactured by GR some time in the early 1960's. I managed to purchase it still in a sealed box, a few years ago. All of the tags, wrappings, manual, brochures, etc. that would accompany a new piece of quality equipment are here still. I checked out the unit and found that the switch shaft lubricant had dried out, and I had to re-lube the shafts. But, after that the unit tested out flawlessly!
In this video I give you a look at it, and use it to divide down a 1v reference flawlessly to various 4 digit combinations. It is to be sold in all of it's original packaging, double boxed to preserve it.
I received this unit as a part of a larger lot of equipment I purchased and have had it setting around for several years waiting for me to experiment with it. In this video I demonstrate that it still puts out a pretty decent image from any composite video device (usually they have an RCA video output jack). I connected an RCA video camera from the 90's to it through an RCA to BNC connector and BNC cable. Turned the unit on, loaded the paper, set it for a frame grab print and hit the print button! Did it work? Please see the video!
A unit like this could print from a composite video output from various video units, or maybe an oscilloscope, in order to record on paper your events.
In the video I test the unit, record the results and then go over them off of the computer. It easily passed the performance test. It is in excellent condition, operates very smoothly and looks like a really fine piece of gear (which it is).
The resistors are rated at at least 1/2 watt per step.
tested on video.
In this video I introduce you to the device then I connect it to a 1v source and later to a 10v source and then utilize the decade dials to provide my desired voltages down even to the microvolt!
In the video I show the internals, discuss what I will do, perform the repair and then test the results. The final results show my efforts were not in vain, as my mesurements are all under 1%, with the average at about .6%!
I wound up with a nice bench standard.
In this video I walk you around the unit, demonstrate it's capabilities and prove that it is still capable of it's functionality. Because of the arrival of an 150w current controlled electronic load, I was able to demonstrate this clearly!
It is a decent looking quite, linear, transformer based 50v 2A Voltage/Current controlled capable Bench Unit!
It is a 5 1/2 digit, 200,000 count, manual ranging, that came standard with DC Volts & Ohms, but this one has the AC volts option as well! It can measure from 1microvolt to 1200 volts DC in 5 ranges, with up to 6 digits available. It does either 2 wire, or 4 wire ohms measurements from 1 milliohm to 20 megohms in 6 resistance ranges. With it's AC option it is capable of measuring from 10microvolts to 1000v AC in 4 ranges. It has 6 large 1/2 inch easy to read digits and has a push-button null that eliminates potentiometer zeroing, corrects for 2 wire lead resistance, and more.
I will utilize the performance evaluation charts from the manual to demonstrate it's conformance to it's specifications. The results will be tabulated and you will see that it is still an excellent performer!
First, it had a 5v 5amp output that could power a large number of TTL related circuits, which were very popular at the time. Regulation on this supply is better than 3% at 5amps. The ripple and noise is less than 10mv for the 5v supply.
Second, it had two independent 0-25v 0-.5amp power supplies regulated to better than .1% at .5A and with a ripple and noise level of better than 5mv. The two supplies (A & B) had isolated outputs, so they can be configured different ways. They could be used as independently adjustable supplies, they could be connected such that one of the supplies is negative, while the other is positive, with or without a shared ground. The two supplies could be setup so that Supply B is an adjustable % of Supply A's voltage and B will Track A (if A rises or lowers in value so will B) to better than 1%. The two supplies can be connected in series to provide up to 50v at .5amp, or in parallel (requires 2 equalizing resistors, see manual) to provide 0-25v up to 1amp.
The outputs are overload protected and the meter can be set to read either voltage or current of A, B or the 5v supply.
This makes the 1650 a very nice choice for supplying a breadboard with voltages for TTL, or Analog circuits.
The 5 3/4 digits refers the the maximum reading on any range. What they mean is there will be 6 digits maximum as long as the 1st 2 significant digits do not exceed the digits 16. So, on the .1v scale, you can read .000000v to .160000v. On the 1v scale you can read 0.00000v to 1.60000v, 00.0000v to 16.0000v on the 10v scale, 000.000v to 160.000v on the 100v scale and 0000.00 to 1000.00v on the 1000v scale (1000 is the maximum input).
There are 5 DC ranges available .1v, 1v,10v,100v and 1000v. The ranges are manually selectable, or the unit can be placed in Auto, for automatic range selection. Polarity is indicated on the unit. There is a rate control (lower left of the front panel) that determines the cycle time for update, and as such it can be a "hold" control for readings. The base unit has an analog output available on the rear of the instrument, that uses 0-20v to represent the input measurement. A J201 connector on the rear allows for optional printer use, or for BCD output.
This is an attractive unit, with big (.4 in) red easy-to-read digits. it has a nice wire stand for angled viewing. The red lens is scratch free. The controls work freely.
In this video, I introduce the unit, then compare the bottom and uppermost range voltage readings to that obtained on a recently calibrated HP34401 6.5 digit DMM. The results are excellent!
This unit will be sold with a Dana 5900 Operation / Service manual on CD.
The voltage standard was repaired, cleaned, painted, calibrated, and then modified to obtain zero offset. This has the effect of adding a 5th place, where zeros predominate.
This video lets you view the testing of the unit, to observe and record the test results. The unit passed magnificently.
General Radio was an electronics manufacturer with a reputation for making fine precision electronics equipment for many decades. Today a company named IET Labs carry's on the manufacture of some of General Radio's product line. The 1491-D, a very similar device manufactured by IET, starts at about $13,000.
There are 4 decades of inductance, dial select-able, on the unit. Each decade is capable of limited current capacity and each has an expected accuracy. The lowest range is 1 millihenry per step, up to 10 millihenrys, can handle up to 3 amps and has an expected accuracy of +/-2% or better. The 10 millihenry per step decade, up to 100 millihenrys, can handle 1 amp maximum, and has an expected accuracy of +/-1% or better. The 100 millihenry per step decade, up to 1000 millihenrys, can handle 300 milliamp max, and has an expected accuracy of +/- .5% or better. The 1 Henry per step decade, up to 10 Henrys, can handle 100 milliamps max, and has an expected accuracy of +/- .25% or better.
These units are used as standards for testing measuring equipment, in the design of electronic filter devices (low pass, band pass, high pass types), and more. The wide range of select-able inductance makes it a natural as a test substitute for parts during the design phase.
The 1490-B was known for it's high Q storage factor, toroidal construction that minimized mutual inductance and reaction to external magnetic fields, and excellent electrostatic shielding used in it's manufacture. They used the state of the art Molybdenum Permalloy Powder cores that provide the maximum Q and lowest core losses. These cores are highly stable with respect to temperature and ac flux patterns and have the widest range of permeability.
I this video I introduce you to the unit and then utilize a modern LCR device to measure the inductance of each step of each decade. The measurement device is a DER EE DE5000, which is capable of approximately 1% accuracy (or better) in the measurement of these inductances. The results were tabulated on a spreadsheet and the unit analyzed for % accuracy (within capability of the LCR device). The results showed that the unit provided better than 1% accuracy on all but the 100 millihenry per step decade, where the results were better than 1.5%.
I opened up the unit, carefully brushed and vacuumed out the interior, then cleaned and lubricated the controls to remove the "crackle" often heard with dirty dried out controls. Then I put it back together, oiled the wood, cleaned the cabinet and tested it out (also made a video). Some Ebay HiFi enthusiast will be a lucky bidder!
My wife surprised me with a pair of Power Saving boxes, model SD001, that I recognized as a SCAM. I decided to open them and analyze them and share the video. Instead of saving power, these devices use power, to light two little lights that tell you its plugged in. Other then that, they do nothing.
This video shows the measurement of each step of each of the 5 decades, but the output is measured on a recently calibrated HP34401A to 5 decimal places (not 4). The results are tabulated and the error calculated and compared to the original specification of .005% +/-50 microvolts. The results prove the accuracy of the additional decimal place.
It required 12 volts to operate, and needed a shielded input and output. It was also small enough to fit in one of my project boxes. I had a 12 v "wall wart" power supply and a nice lighted push switch on hand. I ordered a couple of 8" BNC female to SMA male RG58 adapters for the input and output. So, I cobbled together a wideband amp for my bench!
I have a number of decade attenuators on my bench that could control my input or output as needed (for gain control).
It was a simple, yet effective project for my bench!
I have checked and no longer see my exact module available, but I have found a number of modules as cheap as $5 that report to be just as capable! Perhaps you might want to build one?
In the video I give you a look outside and inside of the unit, then I test it! It is a capable unit.