Lockey Price
Blue Penguins at the Royal Albatross Centre - June 2020
updated
We left Calgary just after 6am;
Started Skiing by 7:52, which was a bit later than we wanted to start;
Geared up at the end of skin track, including putting on our harnesses, helmets and crampons, then started hiking at around 9:24;
We solo’d the steps (first step at 9:34); and
Then started up the main ice at around 10:18.
We climbed the right line, which was less muchroomy than the left line, but then traversed left, then right to a cave. I was expecting bolts, but we didn’t see any on the left or the right in the cave. I saw multiple screw holes indicating that I took the a popular route up the falls, and there was a brand new frozen in v thread that I backed up and belayed Jeff and Hans up. The first pitch was great with lots of great rests, but there were multiple sections that required you to get your tools high and your feet above the overhanging mushrooms, which made the climbing interesting. Also a lot of the screws were under the overhanging mushrooms, so I’d bring more slings than we did.
Second pitch was a bit awkward getting out of the cave, then a bit steep, but after the first traverse screw and a screw above it, it was bomber to the top. It was wet and plastic right up the middle of the line. I thought it was wide enough to have both Jeff and I follow at the same time, but it would have been just as fast to climb separately. It is steeper on the right side, but the left you could put your back against the rock and chimney up a bit. The see-through ice on the left side was really pretty. I left the title as WI6, but in current conditions it wasn’t that hard or sustained. I’m also not sandbagging this … I’ve seen pictures of Whiteman in other seasons and the ice looks very aerated, but the pro was quite good on this trip. I think it can also form much steeper than it was for us, hence the WI6 grade.
We reached a bolted rap station at 1:39pm and were on the ground 15mins later. Two 70m will get you down without any down climbing; two 60s would require a bit of climbing off of the mound at the bottom. As mentioned, I didn’t see chains on either side, so we would have built a V-thread if we didn’t have doubles.
There is a station above the steepest 10m step. A 35m gets you down both of the steps below it.
Skiing back was generally downhill and Jeff took off his skins for most of it. I kept mine on until the last downhill section, and wish I would have taken my skins off early.
We were back to the car and packed up by 4pm.
A great climb and we had fantastic weather.
For more beta, see:
summitpost.org/whiteman-falls-iv-wi-6/265542
mountainproject.com/area/107623997/whiteman-falls-icemixed
http://www.canadianrockiesice.com/ice-climbs/kananaskis/whiteman-falls-redman-soars
ridgelineguiding.com/routes/whiteman-falls
ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Canadian%20Ice/Whiteman%20Falls/Whiteman.htm
avalanche.ca/map
Instead of doing it on skis, like we did last year, and because it has been so warm, we did it on our mountain bikes. This was a good decision generally and probably saved us some time, but because the road was graveled and cleared to the water treatment center, we used that road, rather than the more direct route. However, shortly after the water treatment center the snow got too thick to ride and we had to stow the bikes. Still, I think I would recommend bikes.
The climbing itself was fantastic. Mostly plastic ice, except for a couple pitches where it was quite hollow and chandeliered. The last pitch had a transparent middle, but the sides were still solid. It is supposed to get colder, so I suspect that conditions will improve in the next couple of weeks.
Write up from Mountain Project for Beta:
https://www.mountainproject.com/route...
This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.
Pitches:
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.
2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.
3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.
4. WI3. A short step.
5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.
6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.
Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable. This entire route is an avalanche run-out. Be aware of conditions and take appropriate precautions.
More Beta from Summitpost:
https://www.summitpost.org/the-profes...
The Professor Falls is one of the famous Canadian classics, and is very popular. The name is a pun that comes from Professor Eckhard Grassman, one of the first ascensionists, who took a fall there in 1974. This route forms early and usually lasts until late into the season. However due to the constant water supply it can be very wet, even in cold temperatures. The climb consists of three steep pitches (WI4), a gentler fourth/fifth (WI3/3+) and a final crux WI4 pitch of ice often in excess of 85 degrees steepness. Due to the stepped nature, it is common to have many parties on the route on weekends, and most consider it reasonably safe. It is best to avoid this unnecessary risk and not climb below others. We did have a visiting US party climb below us on a weekday, showing the popularity of the climb. When there is no snow covering the steps, ice slides over the lower pitches. It's not a question of "if" climbers knock down any ice, but "how much" - so make your own choice on whether you're comfortable with the risk.
The route does have avalanche hazard like the majority of climbs in the Canadian Rockies, so check the conditions from the Canadian Avalanche Association before you go. Read this accident report to see an example of people who got very lucky. There have been many other incidents on this climb, check the Alpine Accidents in Canada section for Mt Rundle. In 2007, there was a size 3 avalanche debris pile about 100 meters before the last pitch (climber's right).
Most parties rappel the route but a walkoff exists to the left. The full length of the climbing is 280 meters, so don't expect a short day.
We did three lines on what has become known as Prism Falls. The most obvious line is mostly WI 3, but gets into some decent verticality at the end 4-5.
The ice immediately to the right is steeper and allows you to climb sustained steeper ice, than the left line.
The final route of the day was the thin seam that runs just to the right of the yellow middle ice. I wouldn’t want to lead it, but top roping it was a blast. It involved two transition moves with terrible feet. Hans even took a fall.
A great day in an epic location.
Here is some Beta; however, if you can’t find this one…
mountainproject.com/area/111774673/johnston-canyon-ice
summitpost.org/johnston-canyon-wi-3-5/378269
We did three lines on what has become known as Prism Falls. The most obvious line is mostly WI 3, but gets into some decent verticality at the end 4-5.
The ice immediately to the right is steeper and allows you to climb sustained steeper ice, than the left line.
The final route of the day was the thin seam that runs just to the right of the yellow middle ice. I wouldn’t want to lead it, but top roping it was a blast. It involved two transition moves with terrible feet. Hans even took a fall.
A great day in an epic location.
Here is some Beta; however, if you can’t find this one…
mountainproject.com/area/111774673/johnston-canyon-ice
summitpost.org/johnston-canyon-wi-3-5/378269

This is the singletrack linking Double Down to Shawnee. Roots
trailforks.com/trails/pipeline-27902
Singletrack link between Shawnee and the bottom of Plunger.
Hike to the base of the Ice;
Scramble or pitch out the lower sections;
Climb a full 60 to three bolts on the shelf or split the pitch into two like we did;
Climb 50m up mushroomed and steep WI5 Ice to arrive at the top of the business;
Grab the top 30m of WI3 if you have time or rap it like we did.
Descent with two ropes or a tag (what we did); you’ll need to do a V thread if only have a 60. We hit two stations and we were told there was one on the top to tap from.
We downclimbed/ slid some of the lower section, but did a v thread to get down most of it.
From Mountain Project:
Description:
Classic climb in a very cool location and with beautiful views of Abrahams Lake. The climb consists of the 60m WI4 pitch followed by a 50m steep and sustained WI5 pillar. The third pitch is a 30m WI3 with a bolt station on top (to climbers right). First ascent of Kitty Hawk was accomplished in 1980 as a roped solo following several attempts which reportedly involved a giant whipper, rescue, and 26 stitches.
Location:
From Saskatchewan Crossing drive ~38km along Dave Thompson Highway (Hwy 11). The climb will be to your left (north) and is easily recognizable from the highway. Park in an obvious pull out in front of the climb.
To reach the climb, head straight for it through the woods. Once through the woods, locate the gully leading to the base of the ice. The gully, which is initially wide (we chose the right bank to ascend), quickly narrows and fills with WI2-3 ice steps. When we did it, the icy sections was filled with powdery waist deep snow. In lean snow conditions it may be necessary to pitch it out.
Protection
Ice screws
mountainproject.com/route/108151278/kitty-hawk
The summit was beautiful and it was our intention to merely go down to the base and turn around; however, once we got down, it was hard to turn around. Well, we just have a hard time turning around in general. Then, 17.7km later we finished, freezing cold, wet, tired, and with smiles all around. I was planning on hitch hiking back to the parking area, but these kind women that finished the hike with us offered us a lift.
This has to be one of the most epic hikes we have ever done! 5 Stars!!!
From All Trails:
Get to know this 17.7-km point-to-point trail near Kula, Maui. Generally considered a challenging route. This is a very popular area for backpacking, camping, and hiking, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring. You'll need to leave pups at home — dogs aren't allowed on this trail.
Haleakala National Park charges a fee to enter. Fees are $30 per vehicle or $25 per motorcycle. If you are entering on foot or bike the fee is $15 per person. You can also purchase a park specific annual pass for $55.
The Sliding Sands Halemau'u combo is a semi-loop C-shaped trail into and out of the most picturesque portions of the Haleakala crater in Maui, Hawaii. The first part of the trail is the largely downhill but spectacular Sliding Sands trail leading into the crater that features unique silverswords and sweeping extra-terrestrial landscapes. The trail merges into the Halemau'u trail around a central cinder cone intersection and transitions into a greener landscape with grasslands and wildflowers, leading up to a rugged climb back to the Halemau'u overlook. The trail is rated as difficult and is only recommended for experienced explorers. The trail offers a number of activity options including camping at the Holua cabin along the way and is accessible year-round.
alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/maui/sliding-sands-keonehe-ehe-e
It was a great hike with fantastic views.
From All Trails:
Head out on this 6.4-km out-and-back trail near Wailuku, Maui. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 2 h 40 min to complete. This is a very popular area for hiking and running, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring. The trail is open year-round and is beautiful to visit anytime. Dogs are welcome, but must be on a leash.
This hike in West Maui Forest Reserve promises lush scenery, great views, and some exciting ridge-line hiking. It can be a little difficult to find the parking lot, keep an eye out for the red Camp Maluhia BSA sign when turning off of Kahekili Highway.
Hiking the Waihee ridgeline up in the west Maui mountains overlooking the Waihe’e Valley is dramatic and always scenic. There is a well-groomed trail that is suitable for trail runners and hikers alike. The elevation climbs by means of clean switch-backs and stairs spaced apart by spots of flat terrain. Good views are available if hiking on a clear day but be prepared for moderate sun exposure.
As on the windward side of all Hawaiian islands, you're more likely to be in for wet weather and muddy conditions. But it's not all that bad, since this means waterfalls are plentiful, the vegetation is greener and the cooler conditions make for a nice comfortable hike!
This trail crosses through private property along an easement. When passing through private property easements and right-of-ways it is especially important to stay on the path and respect posted guidance. Local officials and private landowners work in partnership to provide public access to this area. Staying on the path while on private property ensures that agreements between local officials and the landowner are upheld and that this trail remains open to the public in the future.
alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/maui/waihee-ridge-trail
From All Trails:
Discover this 9.3-km loop trail near Makawao, Maui. Generally considered a moderately challenging route, it takes an average of 2 h 52 min to complete. This is a very popular area for birding, hiking, and horseback riding, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring. The trail is open year-round and is beautiful to visit anytime. Dogs are welcome, but must be on a leash.
This is a well-maintained trail looping through the forest in Makawao Forest Reserve. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow. The area is popular with several user groups, so expect to see hikers along with bikers on the trail. If you're a wildflower enthusiast, there are plenty of beautiful flowers to see along the trail.
alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/maui/kahakapao-loop-trail
Hike to the base of the Ice;
Scramble or pitch out the lower sections;
Climb a full 60 to three bolts on the shelf or split the pitch into two like we did;
Climb 50m up mushroomed and steep WI5 Ice to arrive at the top of the business;
Grab the top 30m of WI3 if you have time or rap it like we did.
Descent with two ropes or a tag (what we did); you’ll need to do a V thread if only have a 60. We hit two stations and we were told there was one on the top to tap from.
We downclimbed/ slid some of the lower section, but did a v thread to get down most of it.
From Mountain Project:
Description:
Classic climb in a very cool location and with beautiful views of Abrahams Lake. The climb consists of the 60m WI4 pitch followed by a 50m steep and sustained WI5 pillar. The third pitch is a 30m WI3 with a bolt station on top (to climbers right). First ascent of Kitty Hawk was accomplished in 1980 as a roped solo following several attempts which reportedly involved a giant whipper, rescue, and 26 stitches.
Location:
From Saskatchewan Crossing drive ~38km along Dave Thompson Highway (Hwy 11). The climb will be to your left (north) and is easily recognizable from the highway. Park in an obvious pull out in front of the climb.
To reach the climb, head straight for it through the woods. Once through the woods, locate the gully leading to the base of the ice. The gully, which is initially wide (we chose the right bank to ascend), quickly narrows and fills with WI2-3 ice steps. When we did it, the icy sections was filled with powdery waist deep snow. In lean snow conditions it may be necessary to pitch it out.
Protection
Ice screws
mountainproject.com/route/108151278/kitty-hawk
From All Trails:
Discover this 3.7-km loop trail near Lac des Arcs, Alberta. Generally considered a moderately challenging route, it takes an average of 1 h 13 min to complete. This is a very popular area for cross-country skiing, hiking, and running, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring. The trail is open year-round and is beautiful to visit anytime.
alltrails.com/explore/trail/canada/alberta/troll-falls-loop?mobileMap=false&ref=sidebar-static-map
Canyonero is a highly rated 525 m popular blue singletrack trail located near Calgary Alberta. This mountain bike primary trail. On average it takes 2 minutes to complete this trail.
Singletrack begins as a fork off to the left [north] of the walking path. Most people ride this trail down to Radius. Fast descent, watch for walkers.
trailforks.com/trails/oil-spill
trailforks.com/trails/race-of-spades
One of the O.G. DH trails on Moose, RoS has seen plenty of changes over the years. The main line down is a blue DH descent with ride-arounds for everything. If it's your first time down in a while, definitely look before you leap, as some TTFs have changed significantly over the last couple of years. The black/advanced features are much harder than the blue features - lots of consequences.
trailforks.com/trails/family-guy
Family Guy was originally built as an easy DH trail, but has evolved into a 2-way multi-use trail. Due to its western exposure, it is one of the first trails to dry out in the Moose area every year. There are a few optional jumps and some rocky sections, but the trail is largely devoid of TTFs. It is less technical than SHAFT or even Pneuma. When descending this trail, don't be surprised to see somebody riding or hiking up it. When climbing, you are almost guaranteed to encounter someone on their way down. Horse traffic is rare.
Family Guy is divided into 4 sections:
- Segment 1 is marked with a sign on a tree on the West side of the Moose Mountain road about 200m down the road from the Jean Guy trail head. It is a sweet and mellow single track though spruce and pine forest. There are some tight spots in the trees for those with wide bars, but this will just prepare you for the tight spots on the more difficult trails.
- Segment 2 starts at the entrance to Toothless and shares the Toothless trail
From All Trails: 9.8-km point-to-point trail near Kananaskis Improvement, Alberta. Generally considered a challenging route. This is a very popular area for hiking and snowshoeing, so you'll likely encounter other people while exploring. The best times to visit this trail are June through October. Dogs are welcome, but must be on a leash.
alltrails.com/trail/canada/alberta/pocaterra-ridge?u=m&sh=v5vzkt
Definitely worth the trip, but I’d try to get it early before the crowds:
Rawson Lake on AllTrails
alltrails.com/trail/canada/alberta/rawson-lake--11?sh=v5vzkt
trailforks.com/trails/safari-24821
trailforks.com/trails/haircut-rabbit
Probably the best trails at Winsport right now.
alltrails.com/trail/canada/alberta/jumpingpound-summit-road?p=-1&sh=v5vzkt
http://test.bornack.de/self-belay-device-ssb/
The Ziplines were a ton of fun, and moving through the park was challenging enough. While Jeff and I both did the black diamond route, the blue routes were more interesting and enjoyable than the black diamond route.
http://www.burrowingowl.com
albertamamas.com/did-you-know-you-can-hike-to-a-cold-war-bunker-in-alberta
In any event, the bunker is a cool cave and worth the jaunt with kids.
alltrails.com/trail/us/montana/little-north-fork-falls?u=m
rascalswaterpark.com
summitpost.org/experts-choice-iii-wi-6/377122
summitpost.org/experts-choice-iii-wi-6/377122
To be honest the top section is a little bit more scrambly than we were anticipating, but it was fun and we safely got all the kids up and down. We used all trails for directions, but there isn't service in many sections, so you may need to download the map. before you go.
alltrails.com/trail/mexico/nayarit/higuera-blanca-cerro-del-mono?u=i
More Details Here:
cbc.ca/news/canada/calgary/shaw-millennium-park-upgrades-bouldering-climbing-feature-1.6406987
gripped.com/profiles/granite-b-c-boulders-being-shipped-to-calgary-for-climbers
Custom Maui Skimmer;
Armstrong Foil: 85cm Mast, 60cm fuse, 232 tail and 1050 front wing
#wingfoil #slingshotdart #fanaticskyairpremium #mexico #buceriasnayarit #buceriasmexico
Video Topic: KPOW Cat Skiing Fortress Mountain, Kananaskis, Alberta - February 2022
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