Florian Gadsby
Testing a New Black, Schwarz Stoneware Clay Body
updated
Many of these you only out through intense repetition, as it takes encountering them hundreds of times before they become second nature, or for you to simply be able to react to the clay in a certain way, recognising what the issue is and how to fix it.
The joy is that this is a never-ending task, as each specific shape will lead to a whole trove of methodologies appearing, what’s even better is that every thrower or hand-builder or slip-caster, will find fixes to these tiny problems in their own way, adding to their unique language of pot making.
#mug #pottery #ceramic #crafts #wheelthrownpottery #clay
That’s the idea behind this weekend’s video. I take you through the 10 essential steps involved in throwing a mug on the wheel, from preparing the clay to forming the final shape. Along the way, I share practical advice on getting your wheel set up correctly, preparing your clay so it behaves more predictably, (or not in this instance), and even how using a mirror can help tremendously to see your pot take shape.
Whether you’re completely new to pottery or just looking to refine your process, I hope these steps and techniques help simplify the craft and make the wheel feel a little less intimidating.
Thanks for watching!
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🏺 • If you want to learn how to throw a pot, you might like my 'A Beginner's Guide' series: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
📢 • Find out much more about my work here: https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
⏱ • Timestamps:
0:00 - Introduction
1:05 - Weighing out and preparing my clay, 300 gram lumps
3:36 - Tips & tricks regarding tools and wheel setup
5:06 - STEP ONE - centring
7:19 - STEP TWO - opening up
8:43 - STEP THREE - the first pull
10:03 - STEP FOUR - the second pull
11:27 - STEP FIVE - the third, shaping pull
12:39 - STEP SIX - removing the skirt of clay
13:18 - STEP SEVEN - refining the walls of the cup
14:49 - STEP EIGHT - chamois leathering the rim
15:33 - STEP NINE - wiring the pot off the wheel
16:15 - STEP TEN - lifting the pot off the wheel
17:35 - A cross-section of the cup
18:15 - Some encouraging words
21:03 - Clean up
*I throw using both a Rohde HMT 500 & 600 potter's wheel and fire using Rohde kilns too, the electric is a TE-200 and the gas kiln is a KG-340.
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It seems that enclosed sections—whether it’s the space within a lidded form (a body with a lid on top) or the cavity within a foot-ring cause the glaze to fire rough and scratchy, presumably because the gases can’t escape from the glaze and the manganese decomposing in the clay.
So for these, they’ll be placed in the lowest-temperature spots in the kiln, and I’ll raise them up on props. I’m going to create a kind of channel in those props so the gas inside the foot can escape, or I’ll simply fire them on wadding, a clay-like mixture I make from 50% kaolin and 50% coarse alumina hydrate and stick, like tiny feet, into the foot, raising it up. Whilst I don’t think lidded forms will work with this particular black clay, I believe these should be fine, provided I don’t overfire them.
#clay #stoneware #studiopottery #pottery #tableware #ceramics
They won’t fit everybody’s style of working, but for my highly finished, trimmed to high-heaven pots, they’ve been a wonderful addition to my toolkit. Unfortunately, the person who used to make mine, Richard Carter, has retired from making spinners, although I’m sure a good lot of you managed to get one.
Either way, there are other producers of similar tools, such as @monkeystuff_co, @momotools_bymariamonasterio, @diamondcoretools, @hsinchuenlin.
All those sold by the above are a bit different but they function in the same way and you can equally use something like a metal bottle cap or a coin, it has to be smooth so your finger glides over it, yet those with a ball bearing inside them that separates the two parts are easily my favourite. There’s also heaps of much more similar spinners on Etsy, but I can’t necessarily vouch for their quality.
#toolsofthetrade #tools #spinner #craft #maker #pottery #ceramics
If it’s a tapered form, the lower half needs to account for at least half the overall height and the opening can’t be too much wider than the foot. The lid too can’t be too thick in comparison to the body, if it’s thrown and trimmed too thickly it can overpower the body, looking top-heavy.
The funny thing is that the thrown components often have the faults listed above, yet through the process of trimming the pots they’re greatly changed into what I have pictured in my mind.
#jar #potteryvideos #trimming #clay #stoneware #pottery
Nikkei's brand colour is a navy blue, and thus that's the type of glaze they were after and in this film, I'm documenting that entire process, from all the testing, both in terms of clay and glazes, then there's the actual making of 200 stoneware cups too, from throwing them, trimming them, attaching their handles, glazing them and finally reduction firing them to cone ten, (1290ºC).
SOME of these will make it onto the online shop soon, but do sign up to my newsletter or follow me on Instagram for more concrete announcements.
Thanks for watching!
📖 • ORDER MY BOOK: geni.us/bymyhands
🏺 • If you want to learn how to throw a pot, you might like my 'A Beginner's Guide' series: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
📢 • Find out much more about my work here: https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
⏱ • Timestamps:
0:00 - Introduction
0:44 - Experimenting to create a blue clay body
6:30 - Blue glaze test tiles
9:46 - Glazing the test cups
11:08 - The results of these test cups...
12:05 - Throwing 200 cups
15:31 - Trimming 200 cups
17:14 - Handling 200 cups
30:50 - Stamping the cups
36:07 - Biscuit firing the cups to 1000ºC
38:14 - Waxing the cups
39:25 - Glazing the cups
41:25 - Tidying the glazed surface
44:22 - Packing my Rohde KG 340 gas kiln
45:55 - Reduction firing the kiln to 1290ºC, (cone ten)
47:35 - Unpacking the kiln & the initial results
50:38 - Sanding the cups bases
53:41 - Wrapping the cups
*I throw using both a Rohde HMT 500 & 600 potter's wheel and fire using Rohde kilns too, the electric is a TE-200 and the gas kiln is a KG-340.
____
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TikTok – tiktok.com/@floriangadsby
Website – http://www.floriangadsby.com
Thrown from approximately 450 grams of clay with a vast majority of that being left in the thick foot. I always prefer to throw them with too much clay in the base as compared to leaving a touch too little, this way I can always turn the pedestal-like base shorter, if necessary, but you can never easily add height back to pots like this, unless you do it when the pot is still on the softer side, which yes, is something I admittedly do from time to time. Bodging, as I’ve heard numerous potters call it, tacking on additions to provide more material to trim later or dropping in a ball of clay and smearing it on the bottom to further pad out the base—not everything has to be perfect at the thrown stage and changes can be made, you’ve just got to make sure your timing’s right.
Get it wrong, try to add clay too late and that’s when things can go awry, cracks form around the knitted-on stoneware, leading to deep lines in the clay-work the glazes will pool into, this can seal them but they’ll still always remain present.
Oh, and don’t you like the new callipers in the video? They’re nautical dividers that I’ve screwed to be incredibly tight, the best part though is their sharp tips, which score a beautiful fine line in the foot, with this set it ensures the diameters of all these feet are the same.
#pottery #ceramics #satisfying #craft #maker #bowl #tableware
The very basic idea is my want for a simple black clay and glaze combination that end up feeling as if the vessels aren’t even glazed, yet I want just enough of a layer to cover once grog filled gaps and to smooth the forms a touch, (so I don’t need to be so fussy with the clay-work).
Both bowls were reduction fired to cone ten, some 1290ºC, and along with the rims distorting a little bit, the bare clay bases also plucked away at the kiln shelf a touch, meaning they needed to be sanded a touch more than normal, (a task for which I use my @diamondcoretools diamond pads). With my typical stoneware, grinding back the clay too much reveals dull, grey stoneware underneath, but at least with this combination I can polish to my heart’s content without ruining any of the colour as well, all that’s revealed is even more black.
Let me know what you think!
#bowl #stoneware #experiment #satisfying #asmr #pottery
This will make mixing the glaze in the future easier as I start with the perfect amount of water in the bucket prior to dumping in all the raw materials, then I can just check it as I go using a hydrometer.
I know this is glazing 101 but with the feldspathic crackle glazes I’ve been using for so long, I can easily judge the correct thickness via the archaic, ‘how it coats a finger’ test, but with these new glazes and for continuing into the future, I need to be more measured and careful.
Results sometime next week, if everything goes according to plan.
#glaze #reductionfired #pottery #ceramics #asmr #howto #oddlysatisfyingvideo
In these cases, as I’d be lying if I said I’m always trimming my work when it’s the perfect consistency, I often use a sticky pad like this—a round of chamois leather works too, as does a thin pad of foam. It works nicely provided you press down firmly enough from above, (using a spinner in this case), yet I’d say it does lend itself to be slightly more technical trimming and it’s remarkably easy for everything to abruptly go terribly wrong, or rather, the pot flinging off centre and destroying itself. Hence why this isn’t a technique I’d recommend to somebody that’s new to trimming, in that instance pinning the bowl to the wheel with clay stuffed around the rim is a much safer method.
Thanks @diamondcoretools for the sticky pad and @kevin_scott for the super spinner.
#pottery #trimming #handmade #satisfying #tools #ceramics
The truth is, despite all my hours on the wheel, failure is always present and it tends to rear it's head most when I'm throwing and trimming new clay types as you have to adjust, carefully, to the new properties of the materials at hand, porcelain in this case.
Thus, in this weekend's video, I'm trimming the angular porcelain vases made in my previous video. I explain why certain mistakes occur and how best to avoid them, together with speaking about filming and deciding to post what are arguably questionable, fail-filled videos, the type most potters would want to hide.
Thanks for watching my destroy these vases. They simply weren't meant to be.
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It'll be published in October!
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction
1:15 - Speaking about posting failure online
2:54 - My ambition with these vases
5:07 - Failure no. 2
5:39 - A Successful attempt
8:33 - Balancing trimming vs. throwing
10:33 - Failure no. 3
12:38 - Failure no. 4
13:45 - Clean up
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https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
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(Tap the Linktree and click on the very top link)
When putting this video together and properly thinking about spinners, how I use them and why I use them, I did some to a sort of revelation, they were a step, so-to-speak, in my journey as a potter, as whilst they’re so incredibly simple, the difference they make is rather staggering. For instance, when filming this week’s film and returning to some of the older spinners I have, (those without a ball-bearing inside), the difference in concentration and pressure needed to pin the pot down is remarkable.
When using a spinner with a ball-bearing and a comfortable handle, I can trim with more attention on my hand that’s holding the turning tool and therefore the shape of the pot itself, without a spinner, or using one that is just a simple flat surface, part of that attention is put back on my left hand, the one that supports the spinner, keeping it place, as you constantly have to readjust the fingers on it and the spinning motion of the spinner itself influences the movement of your fingers.
I’m probably massively overthinking it but I’d wager I’m one of the potter’s that’s used a spinner like this the most so there’s no wonder why they’ve been in my thoughts so much. The truth is, there’s an awful lot of spinners online and some are far better than others in my opinion, so in this video I also breakdown what I think you should be looking for.
Thanks for watching!
#pottery #tools #toolsofthetrade #satisfying #asmr #craft
Once thrown and safely separated from the bat though, they’re a breeze, as long as they’re trimmed and dried evenly so they stay flat throughout the process, in fact that’s likely the second trickiest part of the making these, finishing them so they don’t warp, also a nightmare. It’s for this reason that whilst leather hard a pot like this is only ever flipped around between two bats as it’s so easy to accidentally bend the plate, warping it, which could eventually lead to cracks forming.
Once bisque fired, I lay these pieces on a flat surface to see if they teeter or spin. If they do it’s at this stage that I grind back the offending clay until it sits flat. If you catch it here it normally doesn’t come back to haunt you once reduction fired.
Glazing is simple, again provided you have a wide enough bucket, in and out, that’s it. I used to be wary about placing the pots on foam like I do, my fear was it would grind away the dry powdery glaze itself, and it can if you rub it around on that surface, but the heavier objects tend to hold themselves down firmly enough so this doesn’t occur.
Then it’s fired again, this is the final test and there’s still plenty that can go wrong, but it worked a treat this time. Thanks for watching!
#plate #tableware #pottery #ceramics #maker #craft #satisfying
The first thing to understand is that this specific glaze dries into an absurdly fragile layer. If I were to coat the interior first, let it dry, (which you must do in order for the walls to become desaturated with water—thus being able to absorb water again when the exterior is dipped), and then push it underneath the glaze like so, there’s a chance I’d chip or damage the interior surface as it’s plunged into the bucket of glaze.
I personally feel as if I can handle the vessel more delicately if I do it the other way around, this way I’m pushing the jar into the glaze without worrying about harming the interior form. Yet, if you have a glaze that dries into a harder layer, then by all means do it the other way around, this is just what works for me.
As for deciding to glaze these in two parts, I do this because by dipping the exterior like so and by slowly pulling it out of the glaze, I’m able to achieve a really flush, consistent layer on the outside. If I were to dip the entire vessel, pull it out of the glaze and then pour the contents back into the bucket, there’s a high chance that the glaze on the inside would spill over the exterior form. The large volume of glaze that flows out can be enough to manoeuvre the glazed that partly absorbed to the outside shape, creating an uneven layer. In this instance, unevenness is my enemy, which is precisely why I do it the slower, more careful way.
#jar #pottery #ceramics #clay #glaze #oddlysatisfying #asmr
I never liked bowl forms that had an angular interior that matched an angular exterior, which is what happens you try and throw the angular shape straight off-the-bat. I prefer a rounded, sleek inside shape, as the glazes conform to it in a far better way, thus the solution, and the revelation I’ve sort of had since, is to throw a relatively thick curved shape that’s then trimmed back to be sharp and angular, a vessel made up from numerous straight planes.
Revelation is the right word too, as since beginning to make vessels like this my enjoyment of the process has rocketed, as have the quality of the pots themselves, not to mention that I’m far more content with how individual, in terms of character, they feel.
That’s a lot of words for a small change in my craft, but it’s had a considerable impact on my practice.
#bowl #craftsmanship #trimming #wheelthrownpottery #clay #pottery
You've heard me talk about the want of wanting to incorporate more porcelain into my practice for a few years now and hopefully this video will explain some of the characteristics of clay like this. I'll also try to set some time aside to test all of the porcelain bodies I have, if that's a video that may be of interest to you folks?
Thanks as always for watching and apologies in advance for a week away, I need a break!
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📖 • Order the HARDBACK of my book: geni.us/bymyhands (available now). OR you can pre-order the PAPERBACK via this link: penguin.co.uk/books/452259/by-my-hands-by-gadsby-florian/9781837310289
It'll be published in October!
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction
1:00 - Preparing & wedging the porcelain
2:46 - Throwing the angular vases
5:11 - The properties of porcelain
12:25 - The purpose of these pieces
14:40 - Refining the interior shape
15:28 - Clean up
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https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
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You may see us bicker from time to time in the comments, well, I’d argue that’s Jono’s doing, but behind the scenes we are kind to each other, I promise, we chat about work, how on earth to run a business, how to deal with clients, how to fix problems and apply glazes, the lot.
We’re both potters who’ve grown up putting ourselves and our work on the web and his pots are used regularly both at home and in my workshop, hence why this capacious unexpected parcel was such a surprise to receive.
Perhaps most importantly though, in a few days’ time at 7:00 pm BST, 30 March, Jono and Emily will be updating their online shop with a collection of lovely pots, I’ll see you there.
#pottery #jonosmart #ceramics #unboxing #craft #stoneware #maker
Beyond that, there are two other important factors to making a successful mug, (in my opinion), the first tip will help you to throw a shape without any trapped, ‘useless’ clay in the bottom, and that’s simply throwing an internal form that has a distinct flat base with walls that jut upwards vertically, without any gradual curve connecting the two. If you leave the floor curved in a shape like this, the raised portion closer to the walls will keep the vessel bottom heavy as you can’t trim it away easily thereafter.
The second tip is more ergonomic and that’s to create a lip that fits the shape of your mouth. I see so many cups that resolve in a thick, blocky rim, a form that simply doesn’t nestle into the corners of your lips. Instead, I throw the rim with a bevelled edge that comes to a sharp point on the outer portion of the wall, the sharpness is then softened with a chamois leather, yet it’s crisp enough to snuggle into the corners of your mouth. Think of a stool made with a shape that mimics your behind, comfortable, right? Well, the same can be said for a properly thrown lip.
#pottery #howto #potterytutorial #clay #ceramics #maker #wheelthrownpottery
This week’s YouTube video covers a topic you may have seen me writing about a fair amount lately and that’s how I want to use these bronze filings more intentionally in my work, as compared to simply wedging them at random into my clay, the idea is to use them from more of a design-led perspective, to create directional points on the vessel that end up linking groups of work together. For a much more thorough explanation of my thoughts and ideas and how I did this, make sure you watch the fully narrated video on my YouTube channel, which you can find via the Linktree in my profile’s biography.
I won’t lie, the arbitrary dots have been getting slightly on my nerves. There’s a certain amount that has made it into my reclaim and they keep coming back and marking pots, (even those I’m trying to purposefully imprint with red metallic spots, like these bowls, hence my annoyance). I see the beauty in their random appearance, yet at the same time, if by adding them myself I can introduce a new element of design that’s both purposeful and creates more interesting groups of work, then that’s a good thing in my mind.
Thanks so much for watching and do let me know what you think!
#bronze #pottery #oddlysatisfying #howto #craft #ceramics #maker
It serves no purpose beyond giving the piece an obvious way to display it and they’re about the closest I get to hand-building. This process is slow and the coil must be allowed to dry in-between stages as it’s soft and tacky initially, which isn’t the best quality for the clay if you indent to create a flush, smooth mark. So, once joined roughly I let is sit for a while, (normally whilst I trim more vases and attach the coils), then I can go back and start work on the first, refining and sharpening the protrusion.
It’s slow work that’s a nice counterpoint to the more rapid throwing my days and normally filled with.
#vase #howto #craft #clay #ceramic #pottery #studiopottery
This week has been a blur. For five straight days I’ve been buried in cardboard, tape, and endless mountains of packaging chips, my fingers are rubbed raw from folding, wrapping, and sealing. By Friday evening, I finally packed the last box from my 17 August shop update, only the labelling remains. To be completely honest with you, heading into this drop I felt anxious and incredibly stressed. With the sudden halt to shipping orders to the USA and EU (tariffs and GPSR regulations are enough to drive anyone mad), I feared sales would be far slower and maybe even stall completely. Instead, the opposite happened, you lot cleared the shop in 3 minutes and 53 seconds. I’m still stunned. Truly.
It’s moments like this that remind me of how lucky I am to have people who not only support what I make but do so with such speed and enthusiasm, even when hurdles such as a manic buying experience get thrown in the way. It’s all very overwhelming in the best possible sense and a topic which I could speak endlessly about, hence the longer YouTube self-examination this weekend.
Thanks for watching!
📖 • ORDER MY BOOK: geni.us/bymyhands
🏺 • If you want to learn how to throw a pot, you might like my 'A Beginner's Guide' series: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
📢 • Find out much more about my work here: https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
⏱ • Timestamps:
0:00 - Introduction & why I didn't ship to the USA or the EU
3:02 - A brief guide to wrapping pots
5:41 - The current issue with my online shop
7:18 - Why I don't sell with galleries more
10:15 - Why I don't do pre-orders
12:30 - Three possible solutions... (raising prices)
13:54 - Auctions and real lotteries
16:00 - Do I keep it first come, first serve?
*I throw using both a Rohde HMT 500 & 600 potter's wheel and fire using Rohde kilns too, the electric is a TE-200 and the gas kiln is a KG-340.
____
Instagram – instagram.com/floriangadsby
TikTok – tiktok.com/@floriangadsby
Website – http://www.floriangadsby.com
First and foremost, the lower tapering part has to account for half or more of the overall height. If it’s shorter than the angular section on top, then it begins to feel clumsy and top-heavy, stumpy as compared to elegant.
Secondly, the base, (and yes it can be trimmed narrower), has to be narrower than the pinched section towards the top, where the two walls meet. If the foot portion is wider or the same width, then again, the vessel loses its elegance.
Third, the line around the waist, (where the lower half and the top half meet), has to always be the most outward point, other angles can be equal to it, but they can never splay out further, otherwise the form becomes top heavy and it throws off the proportionality.
These might sound restrictive but sometimes it’s interesting to see how you can push the boundaries within a certain set of rules, moreover, these are just the rules I apply to myself when making these, by no means do you have to be a potter who creates according to order but it works for me, and I find I create the best vases when I follow these rules.
#vase #wheelthrownpottery #maker #clay #satisfying #pottery
Thus, once the blanks have been pulled, they are immediately used, I want them soft, in fact, if I have many handles to pull or if it’s a particularly hot day, I’ll stack all the blanks up and will wrap them in plastic, as the wood tends to wick moisture out of them very quickly, drying out side of them and making them more difficult to pull.
It’s a skill that’s initially a nightmare to learn, yet once the basics have engrained themselves in your muscle memory it becomes a joy, you’ve just got to persist through the pain.
#handles #handlepulling #oddlysatisfying #clay #pottery #ceramics
These are deceptive objects. Simple, yes, yet trimmed to an astonishing level, my fault really for accidentally throwing the lids far larger than need be… I’m sure I’m not the only person that’s measured the opening of their jars only to then knock it larger, or smaller, without realising.
Thankfully, my general approach when making lidded ware is to throw the lids themselves thicker than need be, not the overhang itself, that was too much on these, but the vertical locating flange, for instance, is a segment of the pot I always throw more substantially, this way it can be trimmed back to fit the vessel underneath it no matter what. I’ll be trimming the underside of my lids regardless, so this fraction of additional material acts like a safety net of sorts.
Yet, that’s no excuse for the portion of the lid that’s overhanging to this degree, the next time I make these I’ll spend a few extra moments measuring.
These are useful pots though, the wider opening means I can easily reach inside to fish out salt or spices, or it can be used for trinkets, rings and the like, in fact, you can put anything inside, it’s not my job to tell you what to do with these.
#pottery #satisfying #clay #stoneware #jar #ceramics #maker
As always, I discuss each step along the way, from how to properly brace your hands as you trim, the importance of wheel-speed and vigour and finally, how I hollow out such an expansive foot, that's where the real tricky work is.
Al in all, I end up with two shapes I very happy with, although I can already foresee the troubles that'll arise in glazing such tall forms. Thank you so much for watching the video, I appreciate you taking your precious time to watch!
If you'd like to watch how these bowls were thrown, click here: youtu.be/9A198IDbV2w
Devon, Sophisticated_Pagen's website: sophisticatedpagan.ca
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📖 • Order the HARDBACK of my book: geni.us/bymyhands (available now). OR you can pre-order the PAPERBACK via this link: penguin.co.uk/books/452259/by-my-hands-by-gadsby-florian/9781837310289
It'll be published in October!
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction & the importance of slow drying
2:35 - Attaching the bowl to the wheel-head for trimming
4:03 - Trimming the outer, angular shape
6:55 - Refining the tall foot & hollowing it out
8:33 - Weighing the first bowl to see how much material is removed
9:01 - Trimming the second bowl
11:55 - Shaping the angular foot
13:54 - A more detailed demonstration of hollowing out the foot
15:49 - Stamping the vessel with my maker's mark
16:35 - How I dry them slowly to avoid warping
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As these the dry the forms loosen, especially the lip, which goes from being very defined, to rather splayed out as the clay is slowly drawn back into its circular shape. Hence, all the fiddling around I do at the start of this video to keep them refined.
Let’s just hope they pour well, but I need to show you the rather absurd trimming before I can move onto testing them.
#jug #pourer #howto #pottery #clay #ceramics
Thus, for these, I trim and create those marks and afterwards I spend some time carving them back, to create a flush surface again, which I then fettle over with a sponge-on-a-stick and then compress with my fingertips.
The best part about all of this though, is being able to work the actual pouring edge back to being incredibly crisp, which means when used it should cut through the liquid wonderfully, resulting in a smooth, even pour. I even fractionally wipe the glaze back here so that the spout isn’t obliterated and smothered in glaze, (this can thicken the lip, rounding it and causing it to pour poorly).
This extra work means they certainly take longer to create but it’s well worth it in the finished product, provided I don’t mess them up hereafter.
#pottery #jug #qualitycontrol #carving #ceramics #studiopottery
All in all, it was easier to put together than I thought. The throwing of the two halves sort of felt like throwing two plates, so my second concern is the vessel warping or moving as it dries out to bone dry before the biscuit firing can be done. Thus, the box has been drying beneath plastic for a week or so, unwrapped daily and allowed to breathe before being smothered again.
I’m not sure which colour to glaze this, white, black, pale-green, blue perhaps? With so many new buckets of glaze in the workshop I’m having a much harder time deciding how to coat the pots I make.
#jar #pottery #tutorial #studiopottery #contemporaryceramics #box #craft
There isn’t much to the process itself. Anyone that’s mixed up a whole range of test tiles like this will know it’s slow and careful work, yet you try to get into a rhythm that’s relatively fast otherwise hours can disappear very quickly. The most important part to get right is obvious, the right material weighed out to the correct amount, yet again, that’s easier said than done as all it takes is a tiny lapse of concentration for a glaze to be mixed incorrectly, a phone-call, a knock on the door and so on. We’ve all been there.
#glaze #test #testtile #glazing #satisfying #pottery #ceramics
Chucks, (I’ll use this as the universal term for the three distinct shapes from hereafter), are tools I find the most useful when trimming many multiples of the same shape as they help eliminate time wasted centring pots and attaching them securely down onto the wheel, instead the chuck is centred and each vessel is simply slotted over it for trimming, the solid mass of clay holding the pot in place.
Not only that, but the chuck helps to preserve the shape of the opening of the pot, it can even correct oval or misshapen openings, as the leather hard clay of the pot that’s still relatively soft adapts to the roundness of the chuck as it’s inserted over it. I even use a chuck on all my handles vessels to quickly reshape the rim just in case they’ve been drawn into an oval shape as the new appendage pulls the rim to one side.
Thanks so much for taking your time to watch if you happen to click over onto my YouTube channel, it’s very greatly appreciated.
#pottery #chucks #tools #toolsofthetrade #ceramics #tutorial #clay
I also discuss opening up, shaping and tidying up this shape before prying them precariously off the wheel and then how I let vessels like this dry very slowly for a few days, so they don't warp or distort, which for a form like this is crucial, as otherwise trimming the distinct shape will be nearly impossible.
Thank you so much for watching the video, I appreciate you taking your precious time to watch!
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It'll be published in October!
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction & shop announcement (17 August, 7:00 pm BST)
1:30 - A drawing/cross-section of the bowl I want to throw
2:20 - Clay preparation
3:24 - The clay centering process
5:31 - Throwing the first of two bowls
9:51 - Throwing the second, better bowl
14:42 - How I dry these bowls out properly
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Either way, trivial yes, but a change to a tool that’s so engrained in my muscle memory feels peculiar and it took some getting used to. The main difference is that the wax seems to be pulled out of the foam more quickly by the absorbent stoneware and if this catches you off guard then it drags the entire pot off centre, potentially tipping it over.
By the way, that last daub that I do is to flood my maker’s mark and properly seal it, otherwise this little intricate crevice can fill with glaze that is somewhat irritating to needle out. Cleaning it out every now and then is fine, but if I had to do it for every single mug, I glazed then it would add a good 10-20 seconds per piece, 20 seconds x 120 mugs is 2400 seconds, which is 40 minutes. It’s all about efficiency in this workshop.
#waxing #wax #pottery #potteryvideos #craftsmanship #maker #howto
It’s a satisfying process, provided the glaze doesn’t chip and tear away more than I’d like. Thankfully, after this glaze has dried out for a day or so it becomes powdery and soft, yes it comes off on your fingertips and gets everywhere, but it also makes it relatively easy to scrape back and fix. Chips are simply flooded with new glaze from a brush before being blended into the surrounding area and any raised patches, like the tong marks, are fettled back to a flush surface.
The key is not rubbing away too much as to create a thin patch and that’ll show in the glassy surface once fired, yet this is easier said than done. Overall glazing is a process I could live without, I’ve become rather efficient and decent at coating pots evenly, even with a glaze that takes time to settle on the form and given the chance will dry into a bumpy layer, it’s all practice I suppose and it’s rather miraculous how much faster I am now as compared to in 2020.
A good audiobook and a handful of boards to fettle through is at least time well spent.
#pottery #glazing #oddlysatisfying #craft #asmr #mug #glaze
The second difficult part is cleaning over the foot. These are trimmed to be very fine and thus any small mistakes, say I wipe away too much glaze or chip away a tiny fragment, it needs to be corrected otherwise it’ll remain glaringly obvious, (to me at least, I’m sure I’d be the only person to see it).
What helps is the shape of the pot itself, I trim the bottom portion of the foot-ring to have three distinct planes, this way I can easily glide my knife or a wet sponge along them, they act as useful guides. If instead the foot was round, I’d have a much harder time creating consistent clean lines as I have to rely on my hand being steady as I carve away the glaze.
#pottery #glaze #glazing #bowl #tableware #oddlysatisfying #ceramics
I also used bronze fragments to try and create two very simple marks so that you jar and body can be aligned, but let's just say that idea went out the window...
Thanks for watching!
☕️ Mugs with Stepped Bases: youtu.be/JXfI9Czu2PI
🐚 How to Make Wadding: youtu.be/KCI_LQL3JIs
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🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction
0:25 - The problem at hands...
2:10 - Throwing the body and lid of the jar
4:55 - Trimming the parts to fit
10:46 - Why I trim a concave top to my lids
16:33 - Inserting bronze into the clay
17:19 - Bisque firing the jar & waxing it
18:27 - Glazing the jar
19:52 - Cleaning up the glazes surface
21:35 - Wadding the lid
22:14 - Packing and firing my gas kiln
23:15 - Unpacking the kiln
23:46 - Removing the lid and grinding it
25:11 - The finished jar
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It’s incredible how much you need to adjust your technique for small differences in clay. How they’re thrown and lifted off the wheel and how they’re trimmed, the clay feeling so dense that it’s tricky for the blades edge to catch purchase, I can blame these differences on the undulations the smaller indented bowl has.
White clay for white glaze, that’s the idea, with a black clay also being tested with a similar, matte black glaze, the plan being to find some simple combinations I like to create some simple, black and white wares from, groups and pairs, light and dark.
#maker #ceramicist #bowl #oddlysatisfying #asmr #pottery #ceramics
As most of the rims of my pots bevel out to a sharp point, this means the vessels themselves are gripped by the inside of the rim, rather than that lip, which means this very delicate part is protected and held slightly aloft, not coming into direct contact with the chum or the metal wheel head. This is a bonus in some ways as over the years my work has become more refined and those fine sections are the easiest to damage, so anything that makes trimming them easier, the better.
Yet perhaps the two best things about working on a support like this are as followings, first, the opening itself is kept properly round, no distortions here, and secondly, as there’s nothing clamping the pot in place, taking it off in order to check the cross-section is immensely easy, which is useful when turning forms I’m not very familiar with, or that I’m turning to be feather light.
#pottery #trimming #satisfying #chum #chuck #ceramics #craft
Now, I always get a TON of questions when I show these glazing videos, asking why I glaze the outside first, instead of doing it the conventional way, which is by coating the inside and then the outside.
So, the first thing to realise is that not all glazes are the same, depending on what the recipe contains, some dry into a relatively solid layer, whilst others turn very powdery and soft, this is the latter. I’ve also found that the way to create the most consistent exterior layer of glaze is to dunk them like this. Thus, if I coated the interior first, when it comes first to submerge the vessel by pressing on the inside form, there’s a chance the interior could be damage by my pressing down and my forearm could also damage the glaze around the opening.
By doing it the other way around, the interior remains unglazed so I can press downward as hard as I like and I also find it a touch easier to handle the exterior of the vase carefully when pouring the glaze out as I can easily see and feel what I’m doing.
It’s counterintuitive perhaps and it’s definitely dependant on the type of glaze, but this is what works best for me.
#vase #ceramic #pottery #handmade #reductionfired #madeinlondon #craftsmanship
Thus, this weekend’s YouTube video and the exploratory making it shows, is my attempt to fix that, and this short montage of moments from that process is only a tiny portion of the longer, almost hour-long narrated version you can find over on my YouTube channel, (a link to which you can find via the Linktree in my profile’s biography.
That film covers everything you don’t see here, together with my detailing and fussing over each small step along the way, together with sharing numerous tips and tricks on throwing and trimming such shapes and some discussion of my design philosophies. It’s a long one this weekend, so thank you so much for taking the time to watch if you do happen to click over and let me know what you think of these new, slightly more complex, plates.
#plates #tableware #craftsmanship #maker #pottery #ceramics #satisfying
This week, I'm taking you through the delicate throwing process and the even more time-consuming and troublesome trimming. It really is difficult, as the pots are essentially trying to end themselves constantly by coming loose and throwing themselves off the wheel-head.
Thus, in order to make these, you need to work with extreme care, turning the leather hard clay quickly, carefully and with an extraordinary amount of control. In many ways it's much more difficult to make pots on this scale as compared to pots that are normal sizes, but it's a good test of one's ability and annoyingly, they make WONDERFUL kiln fillers, which I wish they didn't, as it gives me a good reason to sit and throw hundreds of the damned things.
Thanks for watching!
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🏺 • If you want to learn how to throw a pot, you might like my 'A Beginner's Guide' series: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
📢 • Find out much more about my work here: https://linktr.ee/floriangadsby
⏱ • Timestamps:
0:00 - Introduction
1:49 - Setting up the wheel
2:15 - Throwing three tiny bowls
6:23 - Throwing two angular vases
8:07 - Throwing two lidded jars & lids
9:54 - How I dry these pots out safely
10:42 - Trimming the bowls
15:30 - Trimming the angular vases
17:20 - Trimming the lidded jars
20:49 - Talking about making small pots
22:08 - Clean up
*I throw using both a Rohde HMT 500 & 600 potter's wheel and fire using Rohde kilns too, the electric is a TE-200 and the gas kiln is a KG-340.
____
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I mix all of these recipes in-house from raw materials I tend to buy in bulk. Each recipe is then precisely weighed out, blended, sieved and dipped on a tile before a small code is scrawled on the back using whatever iron oxide I have at hand.
Often, there are colours and surfaces I like, but they don’t feel as if they’d fit within my body of work or the range of tones I use. For instance, if a cobalt is too bold it’ll overpower the rest of my glazes, so whatever passes the test has to be visually slightly softer.
That’s why I like the blue with the white borders so much, it takes the edge off the tone without completely dulling it down. This whitening also creates gradients, which I like in my surfaces, and lastly metal seems to really flux with the glass, creating small metallic rivulets in the glaze, which is another bonus.
Which one do you like most?
#blue #glaze #glazetest #pottery #ceramics #handmade #craft
This crimson glaze here isn’t absolutely right either and whilst this test was passable, it did inform me that my red glaze needs to be applied more thickly in the future, (if it’s dipped on in too thin of a wash the coarse texture of the stoneware shows through, making the glaze appear as if it’s slightly bumpy).
I’m moving on from this red now for a while to test out a new black clay body and glaze combination, simple, I know, but with that out the way I’ll be on the lookout for a similar clay/surface but in white. It’s about time I embraced my black and white pottery period.
#pottery #wheelthrownpottery #handmade #craft #ceramics #oddlysatisfying
This is the technique I’ve always using for blending bodies. I cut very thin layers and sandwich them altogether, then the entire mass is given a quick spiral wedge to fully mix the two. No marbling here thanks, I can’t see it fitting within my more minimal family of forms and glazes.
I’ll be creating some lidded jars with this lot, in fact that’s the subject of my YouTube video that I’m currently editing for the coming Sunday. What I’ve found really intriguing is how much of a difference this new black clay makes, the combined clay is absurdly brittle, to the point where if the thrown leather hard pots are very gently squeezed, (say the opening of a jar is no longer round), it’s just crack. There’s no give to it, which is a bit of a shock as compared to normal stoneware that tends to be rather forgiving.
#clay #stoneware #oddlysatisfying #asmr #craft #pott
I know you see me trimming a lot but in reality, it’s a huge part of my craft. Not every maker trims such a lot, many potters throw much finer and only trim a little, others leave more weight and trim back, as long as you end up with balanced forms that aren’t bottom heavy, the way you get there doesn’t really matter, (as long as you aren’t taking three years to complete each form). There’s far less turning to be done on many of my shapes, mugs in particular, but I still do it, aiming for very thin walls.
I trained in a capacity where many of the shapes didn’t need trimming. They were weighty, but again balanced, and all that was done to finish their bases was thumbing smooth the bottom corner and slightly indented the floor of the pot itself, (this way when they were raised up on waddings, the base wouldn’t sag, causing the vessel to spin). Yet, in my own work I’ve always been interested in sharp edges, lines, forms that are often trickier to throw than their curved counterparts, for that reason I often leave vessels thicker in places, as I feel I have more control at the leather hard stage to create the shapes I have in my mind’s eye.
Like I always say, (as this comment comes up a lot, “Why don’t you throw your pots to their final shape?”), wouldn’t it be dull if we all made pots in the same way, and why question somebody that’s obviously enjoying the way they create.
#pottery #vase #flowervase #maker #craftsmanship #studiopottery
I'll be throwing and trimming a batch of test bowls and I apologise in advance for the 'teaser', as this is only the first step in the creation process, the initial wedging, throwing and turning of the bowls once they're leather hard. My YouTube channel closely follows the day-to-day activities in the workshop, which often means I don't get to immediately see the results but that's working with clay, it's a slow process full of long periods of waiting for pots to dry, accumulate and then finally cool down in the kiln.
Rest assured, I will share the finished results when the time comes, when they've been reduction fired to cone ten, (1290ºC), but it may be a few weeks yet!
Raw materials kindly gifted by Devon Malazdrewicz, Pagan, here's his websites, (he also makes fantastically sharp tungsten carbide trimming tools):
Instagram: instagram.com/sophisticated_pagan
Website: sophisticatedpagan.ca
THANKS for watching and thank you Pagan, I'll treasure these.
📖 • ORDER MY BOOK: geni.us/bymyhands
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction & mixing the raw materials into my clay
4:58 - Cleaning out the wheel preemptively
5:42 - Throwing the give bowls
11:55 - Drying the work properly & safely
12:55 - Trimming the bowls
23:30 - Tidying up & avoiding contamination
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This week, I’m beginning a search for a black stoneware clay body, so expect blending clays, throwing them into small tea caddies and trimming them. As it turns out, this ‘smooth’ black stoneware is anything but smooth, it’s full of sharp grog and the body is actually incredibly brittle come leather hard, which makes turning it a real pain, as you’ll see in the full video.
I had to completely readjust my way of trimming, soaking the walls of the pots with a wet sponge and then refining these damp areas, otherwise all I was left with was scratchy surfaces that weren’t particularly nice. At least I know this know and the next time I make a batch of pots using this combination of materials, I’ll trim the clay when it’s on the softer side.
Thanks for watching!
Music — Yehezkel Raz - Murmuring
#pottery #ceramics #satisfying #asmr #craft #maker
This black stoneware, (PF680), has been rather unforgiving, or rather, I’ve been treating leather hard pots a little roughly, or at least, in the same manner I treat my usual stoneware clay.
I made a few bowls where their rims had turned somewhat oval, now normally I can just gently squeeze the rim back into a round shape, yet with this black clay it just cracks in four places around the rim when I attempted the same thing.
Not only that, but this grogged body turns leather hard far more quickly than other clay bodies I’ve worked with, all of this means that my first round with this new material has been rather problematic. There were certainly teething issues but hopefully no more will sneak up as I biscuit fire and glaze fire it… wish me luck.
#satisfying #pottery #ceramics #clay #experiment #handmade
Ideally, when trimming pots, I want them to be entirely the same consistency, that means strategically drying these out in such a way that the rims are protected overnight, so they don’t dry out too much, whilst the thick damper bases are properly exposed.
There’s a knack to learning to dry work properly, in fact it’s a skill in itself, and annoyingly it’s one that changes from workshop to workshop, country to country and clay body to clay body, meaning there’s no one rule to fit everything, only common sense and most importantly, practice. I’ve lost pots as I’ve let them dry out too much overnight when I thought they’d be fine. I’ve also completely ruined my schedule by pot drying pots out quickly enough. It happens and you learn and you adapt, that’s making pottery in a nutshell.
#pottery #wheelthrownpottery #ceramics #trimming #howto #craft
Thanks for watching!
How to cone clay: youtu.be/69dMLpXosSk
The spinner tools I use: youtu.be/fBK31iuMOHw
📖 • ORDER MY BOOK: geni.us/bymyhands
🏺 • You may also be interested in my 'A Beginner's Guide' series, which you can find here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2WJhtTF0eGhQwf8g2LHcom_KrvJpH_JT
Timecodes:
0:00 - Introduction & notes on ideal interior shapes
2:03 - Clay preparation
3:04 - Centring the clay
4:09 - The importance of the initial, opened base
6:14 - How to fix a 'rippling' base
8:16 - Why I leave the rims thick
8:30 - Using throwing sticks to fix the interior form
10:45 - Why it's important to dry these vases out slowly...
13:22 - How I dry these overnight
13:41 - Trimming the vases
14:43 - Trimming & bevelling the rim
15:56 - Trimming the base of the vase
18:33 - A ramble about how variance in ceramics is a good thing!
21:22 - Clean up
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I have some for bowls, others for my thrown ink dip pens, if you can remember those, some taller tapering shapes and some smaller ones, like this, for cups of various sizes.
Now, I’ve always preferred using leather hard chucks, storing them is a pain but it’s easy at least. The other option is to the bisque fire them, then you soak them when needed and hopefully the moisture retained is enough to help the pot stick. You can even smear soft clay onto the bisque fired chuck in order to make their surfaces even tackier, yet I found they never held the pots quite as nicely as chucks made from leather hard clay. The truth is, probably both work wonderfully, it’s just we tend to lean into preferences and then you’re stuck making pots in ‘your’ way.
I should make a more thorough YouTube video all about the creation of chucks, if that’s something you’d like to see do let me know!
#tools #toolsofthetrade #pottery #clay #howto #potterytutorial #ceramics


