NERDS PhilippinesI struggled a long time with this. I was trying to do sublimation on 3D prints. It didn't end well, or I got a molten print, deformed prints or very faint prints. I never gave up and came up with the idea to print on the sublimation paper. This should work with all 3D printers. My first try was TPU on the Creality K1 because it had TPU loaded and my X1C was occupied. So, stick (glue stick) a mirrored print (sublimation ink up) on a build plate (i used my cool plate - finally I have a good use for it) . 3D Print on top of the paper, remove when done, and clean with warm water and soap. I used one of those green rough kitchen sponges. The print is sublimated 3 layers deep so no worries you will not damage the print. Printed at low speed 35mm/s for the first layer - build plate at 60°C - Nozzle at 235°C - No fans for the first 2 layers. The next challenge will be to get the sublimation print on the build plate so it lines up with the to-be-printed 3D object. (template with markers - ideas are welcom)
Sublimated 3D printingNERDS Philippines2024-06-12 | I struggled a long time with this. I was trying to do sublimation on 3D prints. It didn't end well, or I got a molten print, deformed prints or very faint prints. I never gave up and came up with the idea to print on the sublimation paper. This should work with all 3D printers. My first try was TPU on the Creality K1 because it had TPU loaded and my X1C was occupied. So, stick (glue stick) a mirrored print (sublimation ink up) on a build plate (i used my cool plate - finally I have a good use for it) . 3D Print on top of the paper, remove when done, and clean with warm water and soap. I used one of those green rough kitchen sponges. The print is sublimated 3 layers deep so no worries you will not damage the print. Printed at low speed 35mm/s for the first layer - build plate at 60°C - Nozzle at 235°C - No fans for the first 2 layers. The next challenge will be to get the sublimation print on the build plate so it lines up with the to-be-printed 3D object. (template with markers - ideas are welcom)AX20AcrylicNERDS Philippines2024-04-21 | Can you cut clear color acrylic with a diode laser? The answer may surprise you. Tested red and green transparent 3mm acrylic. Machine: Atomstack X20 Speed 800mm/m - 80% power The best results you get when removing the protective sticker (on the underside). I tested red and green first with a UV flashlight the green was better in absorption but at the end the red had a cleaner cut. Removing the backing gets better results due to the heat doesn't get trapped. Cooling is important, use the air assist at full blast. Slowing the speed down doesn't give a better result, as I said cooling is important and slowing the speed down gives bubbles. The best results you will get with shapes without too much corners, the heat will give a visual distortion about 2 mm into the cut object. Next test Blue.