This Office Desk is made from American White Oak finishing at 100mm thick. It incorporates a torsion box style design which allows the table to not only stay flat and remain light weight, but also allows for an internal push catch drawer box. The drawer itself is made from Quilted Maple and is stained black. The beautiful ripple effect has been achieved by using a process called Popping The Grain. One of my favourite features of this Desk is the waterfall ends where the grain carries from the left leg, across the top and back down the right leg.
It is important to keep in mind that wood is a natural resource that continues to expand and contract throughout the seasons. The two areas that are most prone to movement are the radial plane and the tangential plane. In the case of this desk, it is the tangential shrinkage that poses the biggest threat, which is why this desk has been designed in such a way to allow for the expected wood movement. The 10mm oak panels are attached to the torsion box frame using a flexible adhesive allowing enough movement tangentially. Also, the torsion box frame itself is smaller than the overall width of the oak panels, allowing the oak to expand and contract without interruption. This piece now sits in a controlled environment in an area where the average moisture content changes by roughly 2-3% throughout the year. But it must be said that this method of construction is not recommended for areas that have drastic changes in temperature.
PEDULLA STUDIO | Building a White Oak Office DeskPedulla Studio2018-02-13 | Want to know more about how I built this piece? Check out my Patreon Page - patreon.com/pedullastudio
This Office Desk is made from American White Oak finishing at 100mm thick. It incorporates a torsion box style design which allows the table to not only stay flat and remain light weight, but also allows for an internal push catch drawer box. The drawer itself is made from Quilted Maple and is stained black. The beautiful ripple effect has been achieved by using a process called Popping The Grain. One of my favourite features of this Desk is the waterfall ends where the grain carries from the left leg, across the top and back down the right leg.
It is important to keep in mind that wood is a natural resource that continues to expand and contract throughout the seasons. The two areas that are most prone to movement are the radial plane and the tangential plane. In the case of this desk, it is the tangential shrinkage that poses the biggest threat, which is why this desk has been designed in such a way to allow for the expected wood movement. The 10mm oak panels are attached to the torsion box frame using a flexible adhesive allowing enough movement tangentially. Also, the torsion box frame itself is smaller than the overall width of the oak panels, allowing the oak to expand and contract without interruption. This piece now sits in a controlled environment in an area where the average moisture content changes by roughly 2-3% throughout the year. But it must be said that this method of construction is not recommended for areas that have drastic changes in temperature.
- 15 Part Video Series (one time purchase or you can become a member to access) - bit.ly/3A8Ly3L - FREE Review Video (45mins) - bit.ly/3YncKW2 - Crazy Curved Leg Video (45mins) - bit.ly/3zUP5mm - Bent Lamination Video (27mins) - bit.ly/4gZoCVf - Steam Bending Video (20mins) - bit.ly/3CYXz9S
As mentioned in the video, this Whisky Cabinet is an exploration of ideas and in order to do this, sometimes the usual woodworking rules have to be broken in order to push these boundaries. I will be holding onto this piece for a while so I can see how my ideas hold up over time. But the true intention of this piece has most certainly been accomplished. I wanted a challenge and a challenge is what I got. This piece not only pushed my technical abilities, but also pushed me creatively, and personally.
Let me just clarify. I don’t think this is the most visually pleasing piece I’ve ever made and by no means is it for everyone. It’s clearly a weird looking piece and its whole intention was to explore different woodworking techniques and styles, while breaking the usual 'design' rules. I’m my opinion some of the most beautiful furniture is the most simple, and for the most part, designing something simple is far more complicated than designing something over the top and complex like this cabinet. At the end of the day I wanted to create something different that allowed me to learn and progress my skillset as a maker. Personally I feel like I’ve achieved that.
A couple of things to note. Yes the lights turn on when the doors open thanks to a magnetic sensor. Also, this is a whisky cabinet designed to only store 2 or 3 of your favourite bottles. It's not designed to be a storage cabinet.
A big mention and thank you has to go to Joseph Walsh who I mentioned in this video. His incredible work plays a massive inspiration in my work and continually fills me with excitement knowing that there’s a level of perfection that an individual is actually able to achieve. Also, a big thank you has to go to my buddy Guy who provided me with the whisky for the photoshoot (no this video was not sponsored by any of the whisky brands shown in this video).
As always thank you so much for your support here on YouTube. The fact that you even watch my videos means I can continue to make more unique builds and share them with you. And if you haven’t already, please consider subscribing as this will help my videos to get pushed out to more and more people.
Now you hear me talk about Patreon a lot. It’s actually the main way that I can financially support this channel and continue to provide free videos here on YouTube. If you’re still not sure about it, then you can watch this short video which will outline all the extra content you can gain exclusive access too. patreon.com/pedullastudio/about
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Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hardwax Oil (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond original and titebond 3. The West System. Techniglue - What dusk mask do I uses - geni.us/BhAAmJK
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
**** This workbench has been made from MDF and Tasmanian Oak. Please keep in mind that the processes in this bench have been rushed due to my time constrains, meaning I made some quick design decisions and was not sticking to standard building practices. Including glue drying times. Some of the parts I glued up, especially the Tasmanian oak to the front of the first bench to help level it back out, was not fully cured when I trimmed it down. It had been drying for approx. 4 hours as I attended to other parts of the build like painting etc. In a better situation where I would have had more time, I would have let this cure for more than 24 hours due to the stresses. But the screws did a good job keeping everything together.
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As always thank you so much for your support here on YouTube. The fact that you even watch my videos means I can continue to make more unique builds and share them with you. And if you haven’t already, please consider subscribing as this will help my videos to get pushed out to more and more people.
Now you hear me talk about Patreon a lot. It’s actually the main way that I can financially support this channel and continue to provide free videos here on YouTube. If you’re still not sure about it, then you can watch this short video which will outline all the extra content you can gain exclusive access too. patreon.com/pedullastudio/about
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Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hardwax Oil in Silk Sheen (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond 2 geni.us/TcF0Guq & Polyurethane Glue - Check out this video for more info on the glues I use- bit.ly/492ZjNc - What dusk mask do I uses - geni.us/BhAAmJK
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
This Walnut Sculpted Desk was designed specifically for two of my favourite clients. The main request was to have an elegant minimalist desk but with a sculptural element. As always I provided a number of designs for my clients and they decided to go ahead with the design outlined by the miniature model I showed at the beginning of this video. The model is to scale and helped to not only visualise the design but also helped in the construction of the desk as I could reference the curves and angles of the rails.
As always thank you so much for your support here on YouTube. The fact that you even watch my videos means I can continue to make more unique builds and share them with you. And if you haven’t already, please consider subscribing as this will help my videos to get pushed out to more and more people.
Now you hear me talk about Patreon a lot. It’s actually the main way that I can financially support this channel and continue to provide free videos here on YouTube. If you’re still not sure about it, then you can watch this short video which will outline all the extra content you can gain exclusive access too. patreon.com/pedullastudio/about
And a big thank you to Keith from @KeithJohnsonCustomWoodworking for the incredible acting skills!
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Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hardwax Oil in Silk Sheen (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond 3 geni.us/TcF0Guq & Polyurethane Glue - Check out this video for more info on the glues I use- bit.ly/492ZjNc - What dusk mask do I uses - geni.us/BhAAmJK
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
**** This Roubo Workbench is one of the most complex pieces Ive ever made and by no means was that intentional. I though it would be done in a matter of weeks yet it took two and a half months of non stop construction. Not to mention the amount of time planning and editing. But all the features turned out as I'd hoped if not better. This bench takes full advantage of the standard tail vise and leg vise but also incorporates a moxon vise, shoulder vice and pattern makers vise, as well as a pop up gap stop and a hidden wheel system which isn't common on a bench like this. Even though this workbench is quite over the top, as mentioned in the video this bench was an exploration of ideas as well as an enjoyable process in which I'll always remember. Shop furniture doesn't always have to be quick and to the point, it can also be an experience. One of my main objectives with this bench is to hopefully trigger ideas within yourself to maybe incorporate into your own workflow .
As always thank you so much for your support here on YouTube. The fact that you even watch my videos means I can continue to make more unique builds and share them with you. And if you haven’t already, please consider subscribing as this will help my videos to get pushed out to more and more people.
Now you hear me talk about Patreon a lot. It’s actually the main way that I can financially support this channel and continue to provide free videos here on YouTube. If you’re still not sure about it, then you can watch this short video which will outline all the extra content you can gain exclusive access too. patreon.com/pedullastudio/about
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Featured Australian Designer/Maker -
Darren Oates
- Youtube - Unfortunately Darren has decided to take down his YouTube Channel recently but if you would like to see some of his work be sure to check out his Instagram below.
A big thank to Leeroy from Reading Furniture for the CNC work. Be sure to check out his website - Website - https://www.readingfurniture.com.au/ - Instagram- instagram.com/reading_furniture
Thank you to Marc Spagnuolo and Lost Art Press for the reference images
And a big thank you to Jon from Lincoln Street Woodworks for his impeccable acting skills. Hollywood is calling!
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Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hardwax Oil in white and Matt (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond 3 geni.us/TcF0Guq - What dusk mask do I uses - geni.us/BhAAmJK
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
This Bed is made from Walnut and is designed to suit a queen sized mattress. The intention behind the headboard design was to create a ‘blank canvas’ where I could add in a unique element that would really set this bed a part from anything else I had seen and the multiple iterations is proof that this headboard was truly a blank canvas for different ideas to occur. To be honest I think headboard idea no.2 is actually my favourite as it is subdued and probably more appropriate for the bedroom, which is a place to relax but, design number 3, although somewhat intense, does represent a new technique for me, not the steam bending but the method of using multiple strips of wood to create flowing curves. Once again this has been inspired by one of my favourite furniture designers Joseph Walsh. Now you may think that the thin strips of wood from design no.3 are fragile, but due to the intense curves, this structure is under enough tension and has enough support from its adjacent curve to have more than enough rigidity. One thing I didn't make clear in this video is that the original client and I had discussed a ball park estimate for the bed before I began designing, now granted my quote came in at the higher end of the estimate, this number still shouldn't have come at a surprise. Also the details to the headboard where added for me, these were not part of the original design for the client. If you’re interested in knowing more about the steam bending process I go into detail about it in a video on Patreon. I also have a shop update where I show how I fixed the curves to the headboard. As always thank you so much for your support here on YouTube. The fact that you even watch my videos means I can continue to make more unique builds and share them with you. An if you haven’t already, please consider subscribing as this will help my videos to get pushed out to more and more people.
Now you hear me talk about Patreon a lot. It’s actually the main way that I can financially support this channel and continue to provide free videos here on YouTube. If you’re still not sure about it, then you can watch this short video which will outline all the extra content you can gain exclusive access too - patreon.com/pedullastudio/about
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hardwax Oil Matt (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond 3 geni.us/TcF0Guq - What dusk mask do I uses - geni.us/BhAAmJK
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
Thanks to Britton Timbers for supplying the White Oak for this Dining Table- https://brittontimbers.com.au/
This Dining Table measures 3000 x 1000 x 760mm and is made from White Oak. As you could probably tell from this video, the weight and size of this table was a real challenge as the weight played a big role in the design and construction of this piece. It was my intention to make this giant table look as light as possible and by using minimal components and by adding angles to the legs I felt this objective was achieved. A couple of things to note. As mentioned in the video, the bottom rail bent downwards due to the weight of the table top. This might seem a little strange, well it was certainly strange to me. The reason why it bent downward was because as the weight of the top put pressure on the legs, the legs flexed outward and because the cross halving joint was so tight, the outward motion of the legs pushed the ends of the bottom rail upward causing the middle to bend downward. Certainly something I could have never picked up in the design phase. Another thing to mention is yes I painted the steel angle bars.
As always thanks for watching and if you would like to support the channel, please consider subscribing or joining my Patreon for more woodworking videos.
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond III and Polyurethane Glue
Thanks to Britton Timbers for supplying the Walnut and Plantation Oak- https://brittontimbers.com.au/
This Leaf Hall Table was built using Walnut and Plantation Oak which is essentially Tasmanian Oak grown in a sustainably controlled environment. I’ve used copper leaf to help accent some of the details in the top but because the table top isn’t flat, I’ve used 10mm acrylic to provide a flat surface. I decided to use acrylic instead of glass in this situation mostly because of the weight but also because I wanted to use screws to hold down the top. The screws go through the support dowels and into the leaves themselves providing a strong grab. Please note this table has been designed as a display table and isn’t meant for heavy use like a dining table, otherwise acrylic would not be a suitable choice in this scenario. The screws have then been covered by custom oak buttons. The Oak leaf tops are held into place using some metal brackets that will help the tops to expand and contract, although there won’t be much movement in the oak as it is quarter sawn material.
I decided to share my story of how I became a furniture maker in the hopes that it may give some insight into the process, as well as provide some clarity to those who aren’t sure whether or not they need a qualification.
If you would like to know more about the creative side of my business and other businesses by actual professionals who know how to produce incredible films, I suggest checking out @artstry This production team have created a series, designed to give an insight into the creative processes of artists, creators and designers. There’s plenty more videos to come from them so be sure to subscribe. If you want to check out my episode, click here - youtu.be/gY2zuTUBigI
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond III and Polyurethane Glue
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
Thanks to Britton Timbers for supplying the American Ash- https://brittontimbers.com.au/
This Sculpted Coffee table is made from Tasmanian Blackwood and uses a technique called Stacked Lamination which is the process of stacking wood on top of one another, creating a blank that allows you to carve whatever shape you want to sculpt.
I use a bunch of different carving tools like my grinder and belt sander to achieve the shapes I’m after. I have links below to some of these tools.
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes White Hard Wax Oil. Then top coated with ‘Satin’ Hard Wax Oil (link below) - What glues do I use – Titebond Original and Polyurethane Glue
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
Thanks to Britton Timbers for supplying the White Oak - https://brittontimbers.com.au/
Made From White Oak, this low lying entertainment unit was designed for a client that has specific size requirements, not only for the room itself but also for the equipment that will sit in this unit. The techniques shown in this build can be utilised in a number of different ways for a number of different pieces of furniture or other woodworking projects.
This is a new style of video that I’m trying out so please let me know what you think about the voiceover. If you do like this style of video and would like to see more, I have around 13 voiceover videos on my Patreon as well as a new video released every month where I go into detail about what I’ve learnt in my 20 years in the industry, but if you don’t want to sign up that’s not problem at all, I’m of course going to continue to release videos here on YouTube, but I’d love it if you considered subscribing. Thanks
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use – Fiddes Lightfast Waterstain in Ebony. Then top coated with ‘Satin’ Hard Wax Oil - What glues do I use – Titebond 3 and Polyurethane Glue
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
Thanks to Britton Timbers for supplying the American Ash- https://brittontimbers.com.au/
This Bench Seat is made from solid American Ash. The main seat structure uses a technique called stacked lamination to build up a solid foundation which is then carved back to its final shape. The curves, also made from solid Ash, re-sawn from the same boards to ensure grain colour and continuity, have been cut into thin strips, then formed into its final shapes. The curve on the left also acts as the supporting leg providing a sturdy, usable bench seat that doubles as a sculpture. Overall length- 1800mm
Inspired by the works of Joseph Walsh, (someone who I have admired since coming across his work 10 years ago) this piece was designed to explore personal boundaries with the hopes of developing new techniques and further progressing my skills as a designer/maker. Not only were my hopes met with an enthusiasm which encourages a ‘new chapter’ of my work, but after working with wood for most of my life, it still amazes me that I can get so excited about learning something new.
Shout out to David Picciuto from @MakeSomething who’s video on “Extreme Curves In Woodworking” sparked the idea to make my own bags, allowing me to create the curves that you watched in my video. You can watch David’s video here- youtu.be/xnR_3gvNICc
Standard Questions- - What finish do I use - Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (I first applied 2 coats of ‘White’ Tinted Hard Wax Oil then top coated with ‘Satin’ Hard Wax Oil (link below) - What glues do I use – Polyurethane Glue for the stacked laminations and Techniglue for the curves
Tools and Products used in this video (affiliate links) -
This Bench Seat is made from Tasmanian Oak and has been designed specifically for a client of mine. The finish used is Fiddes Oil- Satin.
One thing to mention that I didn’t explain in the video are the holes I drilled in the side rails before routing the dovetails. These holes allow me to drop and raise the side rail from the dovetail bit as dovetail bits are tapered making it very dangerous to lift or drop a workpiece onto the bit. Having said that, you may notice I had to back cut a small section in order to achieve this. This is not recommended for anyone who is inexperienced with a router. Back cutting can result in your workpiece being flung out of your hands resulting in serious injury. Speaking of unsafe practices. The jig I used to cut the slots in the legs for the wedges was not specifically made for this technique. It was used for something else but I felt confident in using it as the main surfaces were appropriately supported. But once again I do not recommend this.
The spray used on the brass is a spray lacquer used to stop tarnishing. I’ve also hand rubbed a wax finish over the top of the lacquer once dried.
Once again I have to say that Osmo Oil isn’t a bad finish. I love the look of it on certain woods and the application is easy. I just feel that the protection has been lacking. Please let me know in the comments of any other finishes you like to use.
Thank you so much for watching. Please like & Subscribe if you like my work. If you would like to help my channel out, please share my videos with as many people as you can as this will truly help my channel to grow.
I figured it was about time I introduced myself. This is my first time talking to the camera so bear with me. It’s going to take a bit more practice until I feel more comfortable in front of the camera.
This Hall Table is made from Walnut and Brass. The sliding dovetails were certainly a time-consuming part of the build but a necessary step with a design such as this one. It’s important to note that the legs were also bolted onto the dovetailed frame to ensure its stability. The dovetails alone are not enough to secure the legs. The front bolt (shown at the end of the video) is screwed into the threaded insert located at the front of the leg. There is another bolt and threaded insert positioned at the back of the leg and frame. The hole in the frame has been elongated to help with expansion and contraction.
It may look like there is a lot of wasted material in this piece, but each off cut has been saved and either used as a new section in this hall table or has been set aside for future projects.
I’ve glued the brass shadow line to the walnut top with a simple construction adhesive that specifically bonds wood and metals. This adhesive will allow some movement of the wood while also keeping a good bond to the brass. I used epoxy to glue the brass handle to the drawer fronts. Ive sprayed the Brass with spray on lacquer.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
This custom made Watch/Jewellery Box is made from Walnut and Copper. The drawers are made from Tasmanian Oak with handmade Walnut dowels. I don’t normally build small pieces like this but it was a special build for a repeat client of mine based on a Record Cabinet I built them in a similar design.
The entire box has been made from Walnut that comes from the same board as I wanted grain and colour continuity throughout the piece.
The handles are made from solid copper round bar and the shadow lines have been made from custom cut copper sheet. Both have been polished and coated in a spray lacquer to prevent tarnishing. I’ve glued the copper sheet shadow line to a rebate in the walnut top and bottom. This presents some potential issues with expansion and contraction as the copper runs across the wood grain. There is a slight amount of flex from the very thin copper sheet although I wouldn’t totally rely on this, but from the many tests and samples I have done in the past this hasn’t been an issue as of yet.
This piece has been designed to fit my clients watch collection. The box sits twelve watches and has a compartment to fit other jewellery like rings and necklaces.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
Follow along as I build this Black Stained Oak and Brass Record Cabinet which features a Sliding Wooden Tambour Door, Brass Grilles, and a Push to Open Sliding Bi-Fold Door, all designed to stylishly house my clients record player as well as a large collection of records. Other equipment such as the amplifier sit behind the brass grilles. (Please note the crappy record player shown is not my clients, its just the one I have in my workshop)
It’s important to understand that when building a piece as detailed and precise as this you must allow the wood to acclimate properly to your shop as well as let it adjust to its new state after the milling process. I never show the extensive milling process I go through but each board is gradually taken down to it’s final size in a series of stages, allowing the boards to rest in between. In particular, the slats for the Tambour door, which have been milled repeatedly over a week and a half, gradually bringing them down to the finished size. This process allows as much movement as possible to escape before assembly.
The Tambour Door uses a canvas glued to the back of the wooden slats. I’ve used contact glue to do this which can have its problems if not done correctly. Please note not all contact glues are the same. I only ever use industrial grade contact glue sourced from my suppliers. I never use glue from general hardware stores, from my experience it doesn’t hold up as well. I would not use PVA as this will introduce moisture back into your wooden slats. When I originally designed the Tambour door I hand carved a handle into one of the wooden slats (shown in parts of the video). Once everything was assembled I decided I didn’t like the style of handle and cut it off, then replaced it with a smaller handle which has been rebated into the slats.
The Push to Open Sliding Bi-Fold Door. Seems simple enough right? But there is a lot more going on here than meets the eye. In order for a sliding bifold door to work, there needs to be a track that guides the door from its open position to its closed position. In order for a push to open mechanism to work, the mechanism itself needs to push past the door enough to pop the door open. Can you see the problem here? The push to open mechanism, when open, blocks the path of the sliding door. Now to be honest, when I designed this Record Cabinet I just assumed there was some hardware that existed that could achieve this, but to my surprise I couldn’t find anything for a small cabinet like this, so I had to come up with my own solution. I achieved this by adding a push block on the inside of the door. The block allows the push mechanism to fully spring open without interfering with the sliding door track. Now because the push block protrudes so far out, I’ve had to make a slight recess in the opposite door to allow the bi-fold to open further.
The black stain used is just a cheap brand here in Australia called Feast Watson. There’s nothing special about it other than the fact that it is oil based. I’ve use this stain because I like how the light oak undertones come through the black. If I was going for a deep black I would’ve picked another product. My process for applying black stain is to finish sand everything to 120 grit by hand then apply three coats, letting the stain sit for a couple of minutes before wiping off the excess. Sanding to 120 grit allows more stain to penetrate the wood. I used Osmo Poly X oil as a clear topcoat which isn’t usually recommended as it can remove some of the colouring from Feast Watson products, but I have allowed the stain to cure for over a week before applying the topcoat.
All my custom-made aluminium hardware has been sprayed black to suit the rest of the cabinet. All other hardware is by Blum.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin - What stain is that? Feast Watson Prooftint- Black
100,000 Subscribers! Thats unbelievable! Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like, share and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
This Walnut Bookcase shows off a window that exposes the edge of each shelf which wraps perfectly around its upright, leaving absolutely no room for error. The split shelf design not only adds to the light feel of the overall piece, but has been specifically designed with seasonal movement in mind. Due to the accuracy of each component of this bookcase, it’s vital to ensure that when the timber expands and contracts, that it moves into the centre of the shelves and not affect the accurate detailing of the relationship between the edges of the shelf and the detail of the uprights. This has been achieved by using M8 bolts with threaded inserts and elongated holes located towards the centre of each shelf support. This piece is a perfect example of the evolution of a design. Originally designed without the windows on the uprights, the Maple wedges in the tenon's were positioned horizontally which is the correct orientation given the grain direction. After adding the window and noticing the small amount of material left above the mortise, the wedges were moved vertically, acting more as an inlay rather than a structural wedge. The vertical inlays also looked more aesthetically pleasing than having them horizontal. Made specifically for a client who has an extensive collection of books who not only wants to store his prized possessions but also wants to show them off. The slanted shelves are designed for larger books at the bottom and progressively get smaller with each row, allowing books of all sizes to be displayed without getting lost. The Walnut Bookcase is designed to fully come apart using mechanical fixings for ease of transport.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin
Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like, share and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
This writing desk is made from Victorian Ash and uses copper leaf to accent the shadow lines. Every component to this writing desk works closely with one another, so I've edited this video into each component, Desk Top, Legs, Rails etc, jumping back and forth showing how each part works with the next. The legs have been designed as through legs, finishing flush with the table top exposing the quarter sawn end grain of the Victorian Ash. A small gap between the edges acts as a shadow line but also allows for seasonal movement. Another shadow line runs along the sides and front of the writing desk, the gilded copper foil creates yet another texture. The copper colour accents the lightness of the Victorian Ash while also giving a contrasting divide between the desktop and the hand carved rails. The texture in the rails have been hand carved, then joined onto smoothly shaped legs, providing a textural difference that’s not only appealing to the eye but also to the touch.
When creating the curved template for the top and front rail, you will notice that I use a router bit that is just over 12.5mm thick to create the top and bottom curve. At this point the top and bottom templates are at a different radius to each other due to the amount of material removed, so I replace the removed material with a piece of wood that is the same thickness as the router bit. This provides a top and bottom template with the exact same radius. Now when this curve is transferred onto the top and front rails, they both fit perfectly together.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 and Polyurethane glue (foamy glue) - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin
Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like, share and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
This Sculpted Wooden Cabinet is made from Tasmanian Blackwood. The doors and drawer fronts are constructed using a process called stacked lamination. Book matched boards ensure grain and colour continuity. These boards are cut down into lengths of timber which are temporarily assembled and roughly carved using power tools, then each individual length is carved by hand to refine the flowing shapes as well as allowing any movement to come out of the material before gluing the pieces together. Gluing the pieces together first, then shaping could result in warping due to the amount of material removed.
The doors and drawers to the Sculpted Wooden Cabinet are all push to open Blum Hardware to ensure natural lines without the use of exposed hardware.
Standard Questions- - What glue do I use? Titebond 3 and Polyurethane glue (foamy glue) - What finish do I use? Osmo Oil satin
Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like, share and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
Designed, built, filmed and edited by Nick Pedulla from Pedulla Studio
This Record Cabinet was custom designed and made using Walnut and Brass. Made to suit my clients record player and equipment. One of the main features of this piece is the grain continuity, not only along the front of the cabinet but also along the top. It was an important design feature for the grain on the lid to flow and make the top look like one piece.
I've used Osmo Poly X Satin for the finish. My process is to apply the first coat with a roller, then apply the second sparingly and buff with a white non abrasive pad.
Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
Follow my process where I build a set of Custom Made Dresser Drawers/Chest of Drawers with an End Grain Chevron Pattern and Polished Brass. I have chosen Tasmanian Oak for this project, mostly because of its stability and light coloured appearance. The quarter sawn boards not only help with minimal movement but provide an appealing pattern on the chevron. I have used pine for the drawer boxes as well as Blum drawer runners for their soft close and push to open capabilities. I've used Osmo Poly X Satin for the finish. My process is to apply the first coat with a roller, then apply the second sparingly and buff with a white non abrasive pad.
For a list of the Tools/Glues/Finishes and Camera Gear I use (affiliate links)- kit.co/nickpedulla
Thank you to everyone who watches my videos. I truly appreciate the support, and if you haven't already, please like and subscribe as that will really help my channel to grow.
This custom bed headboard with integrated bedside tables is made from Victorian Ash, laminated with Tasmanian Blackwood, designed to suit a king size bed. The brief, given by the client, was to design and build a bed head that resembled the style of a 1970's longboard.
Threaded inserts are fixed to the bed head, allowing the side tables to be attached using bolts. This means the headboard and side tables can be easily dismantled for transportation.
Finished in a wipe on poly. The first coat is applied generously with a brush as it absorbs quickly. The following second and third coats are wiped on with a cloth.
Altendorf Panel Saw, Powermatic thickness planer and jointer, Makita impact driver and drill, Bessey Clamps, Irwin Quick Clamps, Festool routers, dominoes, sanders and track saw, Carbatec Bandsaw, Jet Bandsaw and drum sander, Bosch Jigsaw.PEDULLA STUDIO | Building a Walnut Sculpted Coffee TablePedulla Studio2017-05-20 | Want to know more about how I built this piece? Check out my Patreon Page - patreon.com/pedullastudio
This Sculpted Coffee Table is made from solid Walnut consisting of around 20 pieces of timber all 40mm (1-1/2 inch) thick. Each piece is roughly cut then glued and stacked together to form the unique shape of the coffee table, a process known as stacked lamination. From this point I used an angle grinder with saburrtooth carving wheels and my festool and metabo sanders as well as numerous hand tools such as spokeshaves, files, rasps and planes to finesse the table to its final shape. Its finished in a wipe on poly then hand rubbed to a smooth finish using a thinned down food grade mineral oil. The top is 10mm toughened glass.
For a list of the Tools/Glues/Finishes and Camera Gear I use (affiliate links)- kit.co/nickpedulla
Designed, built and filmed by Pedulla Studio
More videos to come. Please subscribe and thanks for watching!
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Website- http://www.pedullastudio.com.au Facebook- facebook.com/pedullastudio Instagram- instagram.com/pedullastudio Pinterest- au.pinterest.com/pedullastudioPEDULLA STUDIO | My 30ft Tool WallPedulla Studio2017-05-09 | Ultimate 30ft tool wall showing off all my hand tools and some power tools ( festool systainers ). My custom storage system allows me to store my hand planes, chisels, hand saws, files, bessey clamps, marking tools and gauges, as well as my sand paper and glues. There is even a bench vice and tail vice. Perfect shop organisation for woodworking and furniture making. More videos to come. Please subscribe and thanks for watching!