#53 - Domino Crib Sheet - Festool Domino Calibration Half-Inch Shy 2026-09-23 | #53 - Domino Crib Sheet - Festool Domino Calibration
#97 - Review of Two WoodRiver Vises: Pattern Makers and Gunstock Half-Inch Shy 2014-09-15 | http://HalfInchShy.comLong ago, I drooled on the Tucker vise page of the Lee Valley catalog. Seemed really nice; seemed really expensive. So I punted and got a typical quick-release vise. Works great, for flat stuff.Recently, I took a class from Michael Fortune and had him over to my shop. Showed him my projects and he recommended these two vises from WoodRiver.The Pattern Makers' vise is an Emmert vise-like vise (as was the Tucker, which is no longer made). The Gunstock vise is a different style vise, but has a lot of uses.In this review, I'll show you what they do and how I used them on some curved and tapered table legs I'm working on right now.They aren't cheap so getting a chance to see them swing around and how you can use them is likely a good thing.
#96 - Fiberglassing Your Fingernail Half-Inch Shy 2014-08-05 | http://HalfInchShy.comNo, seriously, crazy cracks on toenails happen often enough in hockey and this is what I do to fix that problem except this time it was for a fingernail that couldn't stop snagging on everything. Like the pillowcase. Right after you roll over.
#64.12 - Angle Madness! - Finishing the Burl Panels Half-Inch Shy 2014-07-26 | http://HalfInchShy.comThe burl panels for the Angle Madness project need to be pre-finished before gluing them into the drawer tiers. I did a number of color experiments before picking a color for the panels then shot them with Polyacrylic before wet sanding to a high gloss finish. If you've already wet sanded a hard film finish, this video won't have much for you. If not, hopefully the process, the experiments, the repair, and all that will be interesting enough even though "it's finishing" :)Next episode, which starts recording as soon as I hit post on this, will make trap doors in the back of these pre-finished panels for pushing cables into the back column. I may do the special episode on wire inlay first since it will cover more of how the wire for those doors will be attached. Not sure yet!And, yes, the past couple weeks with highs over 113ºF have been really draining! I want a ride inside a Zamboni!
#95 - Foredom Inlay Router Guide Ring Base Adapter Half-Inch Shy 2014-07-18 | http://HalfInchShy.comI've been playing with wire inlay recently as there's 35 feet of it for the Angle Madness project. Along the way, I had to make some new base adapters for the Foredom inlay router base. Mine is the William Ng version; it is based on an earlier version of the Stewart-MacDonald base that has since had some nice improvements. Both are fantastic. William also sells the Foredom kit.Also, the small router bits mentioned in the video are also from William's store; I prefer these to others because of collar on them is precisely placed the same distance from the tip. Once you set a routing depth, you can swap bits by dropping them to the collar and you don't need to adjust the routing depth with the different bit... saves a lot of hassle with inlay routing.In this video, I just walk you through how I made a simple base adapter to act like a router guide ring (or bushing or copy ring or likely a dozen other names :)This adapter will get used to route a nice curved opening in the back of each drawer tier for getting all the equipment wires into the back column, but also look good when there's no equipment on the surface as would be the case if it weren't used as an entertainment center.There are some unique problems to solve for the Angle Madness wire inlay as there are for a table I made in a class with Michael Fortune. I'll be gathering up what I learned about it in a special episode outside the Angle Madness series since it'll cover more than I need for that project.
#94 - Simple Resaw-Fence Dust Channel Half-Inch Shy 2014-02-17 | http://HalfInchShy.comI had a problem on my last cut while resawing some stock for the back column of Angle Madness. A simple modification to the fence would help to avoid it in the future.
#93 - Shop Organization Tips Half-Inch Shy 2014-02-11 | http://HalfInchShy.comI've been asked a few times for a shop tour. You see the shop enough in project videos :) but a recent request added "because I see some ideas in the background I want to know more about". Ah, that I can do!I recorded this beginning of December and promptly forgot about it. Ironically, I started using a tool to better organize clips for editing because it "hides the clips that aren't for the current project". Well, out of sight, out of mind :)Hope there are some ideas in here you can steal, improve, and put to use. I needed to get organized cuz as my dad would put it: I try putting 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lbs bag :)Addendum: I'll be adding links to things like those plastic boxes on my blog page for this post. You can find it here: http://www.halfinchshy.com/2014/02/shop-organization-ideas-that-worked-for.html
#82.8 - No Comment #2 - Dem Legs Half-Inch Shy 2014-01-18 | http://HalfInchShy.comI admit it, I nearly forgot to get back to the remaining build videos of the Tim Burton table! mea culpa...This episode goes over the legs; not going to go over the actual shaping process as that's just rasping, but do cover how they were designed and laid out and something useful for anyone making a table: how to easily level it.Next episode will cover the finish as I did that before assembly. Since I'm going to the shop after this post to work on finishing Angle Madness, it shouldn't take forever for the next episode :)
#64.11 - Angle Madness! - Odds-n-Ends Half-Inch Shy 2014-01-13 | http://HalfInchShy.comBefore closing up the drawer boxes with the top panel, they need glue blocks in the corners. Normally this isn't something that needs much discussion, but these blocks are special. Each needs to fit into a corner gluing two sides and a bottom panel. With the angles, each drawer tier has 16 custom-fitted glue blocks; some aspects are mirror imaged from other blocks, but each requires a different saw setup. Won't bore you cutting them all, but will show how you extract the included angle between arbitrary sides like those in this project so you can exactly match the angle for a block.We'll also make a unique marking tool to eliminate some of the error I was seeing in marking the panels for the rabbets.Overall, it's an odds 'n' ends episode. Next episode, you'll start with the boxes all glued up (top panel as well) and sanded ready for the outside surface finish.I chatted with Charles Neil about some goals for the final project's finish for the boxes, burls, and the lower support box in Wengé I haven't yet started (it's just a box! no, really!!) I gave him a run down of the design including some elements we haven't worked on yet and why they are there. He came back with 2-3 schedules for the boxes and some great tips for what I wanted on the burls. I have some experiments to run this week to see what the final finish will be; we'll go over the options and how they worked out, too, in case something that didn't work for this will work for something you are working on.
#92 - Shop Tips - DIY Inspection Cam Half-Inch Shy 2013-12-23 | http://HalfInchShy.comI had a need to peek inside the tiers of Angle Madness tonight when marking out the cuts for the top panel. In this short video, I'll show you 3 different DIY inspection cam ideas that you can likely use with things you already have. The first time I used one of these ideas was to dig into a long wall cavity to locate some wiring; worked very well!
#64.10 - Angle Madness! - Drawer Webbing Half-Inch Shy 2013-12-02 | http://HalfInchShy.comPutting together drawers is like putting together mini projects in the middle of a bigger project :) At least it feels like it when you get little bits of time here and there to work on a project!In this episode, which is noticeably lacking in action shots I'll warn, we go over how the drawer webbing goes into the drawer tiers. Webbing isn't very complicated, but there are a few considerations made for this particular project due to the angles and due to the lack of support directly under the lower panel.Leaving the sanding of the drawer front to last as I do here is the best way to get a perfectly-matched front that is flush with the surrounds when doing an applied drawer front. I haven't gone through to sand those yet since I'd rather take advantage of this last day of the long weekend to get the top panels cut along with some of the glue blocks that will go inside each tier to strengthen the lower panel (all using offcuts that already have the correct angles!)Not sure where the next episode will go yet; I have some materials to order for the metal rods that interconnect the tiers as well as some inlay material. While awaiting that, I can wrap up installing the top panels, glue blocks, and getting the base done.The base?!?Yes, waaay back in the design episode, I showed a square box as a base; all three tiers are supported over that box with the metal rods. Yeah, that base...
#90.2 - Hand-Cut Dovetails on Compound-Angles - Tidbits Half-Inch Shy 2013-11-18 | http://HalfInchShy.comA couple days after posting the previous video on compound-angles for hand-cut dovetails, someone wrote me wondering why they couldn't use one of the two bevel gauges for determining the horizontal line on the last joint, the one with both boards inclined off 90º. As the first video tried to show, the stolen angle for that horizontal line didn't match either reference bevel gauge, though one was close :)In this short video, I show you a faster way to get the angle for the horizontal edges on the pin board; it's what I used when I did the drawers for Angle Madness. I'll also try showing you what happens with the miter angle on the pin board as the pin board's inclination changes. You don't need to know this to cut the compound angles -- the procedure remains unchanged -- but it will help visualize the changing function.I originally recorded this as a private video for Etienne to clarify things, but later realized it would likely be useful to others.
#91 - Review of Valfor Tools GrooveCenter and 2-Axis Depth Gauge Half-Inch Shy 2013-11-15 | http://HalfInchShy.comAwhile ago I saw some posts about Valfor Tools on a forum. Their GrooveCenter caught my attention because it works similarly to the Bridge City KM-1 and TM-1 in that it configures itself directly off your stock to "compute" an offset; no measuring involved. Some time later, Sjoerd the CEO contacted me to give it a spin along with the 2-axis Depth Gauge.The GrooveCenter works especially well for the daunting-to-configure locking miter bit; never used a locking miter where I could dial in the fence and bit height easily and have it dead on. Its primary function is to provide a fence offset for your router table to center the router on the stock.In this review, I talk about both products then show you how to use it for the locking miter bit. If you like using a locking miter bit, skip the bit vendor's configuration blocks that only work for certain thicknesses as this tool will work for any thickness (though a locking miter requires both pieces being joined to be the same thickness... they are not yet afflicted with angle madness).In the video, I show a different procedure for the one-time calibration of the GrooveCenter than the one presented on their web site. I did this because the unit I received had backlash; any gearing mechanism will show backlash without expensive per-unit processing so this is not a product problem. The procedure shown here compensates for the backlash, which is always my preference. In discussions with Sjoerd, he made a change to the design to virtually eliminate the problem and changed all the existing stock himself. Very cool. I haven't played with the new design; it will look the same as the change is in the internals.This was recorded awhile ago, but we wanted to wait until the units were ready.
#90.1 - Hand-Cut Dovetails on Compound-Angles Half-Inch Shy 2013-11-06 | http://HalfInchShy.comBefore dovetailing the drawers for Angle Madness, I wanted to work through a procedure to easily "calculate" the compound angles I'd need for the drawers. I say "calculate" in quotes because I wanted a procedure based exclusively on the use of bevel gauges reading angles in-situ. This will be useful if you don't have your slide-rule handy...For the drawers, I need two types of angles: the rear has inclined tail boards with a vertical pin board. The front of the drawers has both inclined tail and pin boards. Ultimately, they are the same thing since a "vertical" board still has an angle, but there are some shortcuts we can take when only one board is inclined. Things get only marginally more complicated for a joint with both boards inclined. Seriously! Only marginally more complicated.Even if you never plan on doing compound-angle dovetails, the portion of the procedure used to determine the projection of the boards on each other would be useful to make a simple butt joint between angled parts. But don't stop at the butt; the dovetail is easy!This episode repeats the procedure 4 times for the different joints. Hopefully that reinforces the procedure without being a snoozer.
#89 - Drill Press Tray Half-Inch Shy 2013-10-29 | http://HalfInchShy.comI'm certain some of you will identify with this problem: any available horizontal surface gets filled in my shop. The handiest one is the drill-press table as it is the first thing when I walk in and I don't use the drill press that often. When I do, oh, big chore emptying it for one or two holes.This was one of those "I should have done this years ago" ideas. You don't need fancy scrap for it; I just happened to have found some nice stuff when the temperature broke a bit and I cleaned the other side of the garage. That's the side where things get thrown in summer because nobody wants to be in that kiln to place something properly.Oh, and you read that correctly.... one minute, twenty one seconds. Crazy.In other news, I'm working on the drawer boxes for Angle Madness; these are required to properly place the drawer runners and kickers as you'll see in the next Angle Madness video. It's finally getting cooler and I'm eager to spend a whole weekend in there making progress with the garage door open!
#64.9 - Angle Madness! - Box Glue-up and Panel Cutting Half-Inch Shy 2013-09-18 | http://HalfInchShy.comBet you thought this project found its way into a dumpster :) No!The idea for the Tim Burton table popped into my head and I put this project aside since I was at a point where I needed to decide on a few things before being able to proceed. I'm not good at having a big design laid out at the start although this project has had to force that a few times, including now!In this episode,we'll glue-up the drawer tier boxes and show how you can easily clamp ridiculous compound angles... a method that's equally useful for regular mitered corners.I cut the panel to the lines with the tracksaw and have a few tips on how to make lining it up easier.Lastly, there's prepping the panel for installation into the box, which delves into the design of the drawer a bit and why a chamfer into a rabbet is a good idea.Not an action-packed tool-cam video, but hopefully some take away. Next episode of this project build will make the drawer webbing on the inside. ...and I haven't forgotten about the 3 remaining episodes for the Tim Burton table (No Comment #2).
#88 - Refreshing a Guiderail Splinterguard and Dimple Marking Technique Half-Inch Shy 2013-09-01 | http://HalfInchShy.comA bit of a quickie video. I'm working on Angle Madness again and needing to cut the panels for the tapered octagonal drawer boxes. For that, I really need the splinterguard on the MFT to be dead accurate. It always has been, for years, until I needed to quickly cut something on the MFT during the Tim Burton Table build while I had the Panther blade in the TS-75. Unlike the TS-55 blades that all have the same kerf width, TS-75 blades sometimes differ. Now, my splinterguard is about 0.5mm off.The first part of the video, though, covers something I often do anyway with the saw: dimple marking (my own silly term :) With the saw on the rail, it's easy to use the ATB blade to mark exactly where the cut will be. Great for verifying and occasional adjustments. For 12 panels, I want the splinterguard accurate...Second half of the video shows how to bump the splinterguard over so you can recut it accurately. Seems easy enough, but it comes up on forums all the time. Usually people are trying to peel it off and reuse the aged adhesive. I'll show you a better way that works quickly and has no peel-off problems.There were some questions about the turners' tape. It is essentially a double-stick tape. A good one is this one from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56667&cat=1,110,43466 The one I used in the video is from InterTapePolymer.com, but I can't find the woodworking store that sells it now.I used a different brand that I have handy. Many woodworking catalogs will call this type of double stick tape "turners' tape" since, I guess, turners use it (I don't turn yet!)
#87 - Festool Carvex PSC 420 Review and Demo Half-Inch Shy 2013-08-14 | http://HalfInchShy.comIn this review, we'll start with a high-speed demo of a number of cuts in wood and other materials. We'll then go over the saw in more detail pointing out any special features of the saw as well as each of the accessories in the accessory kit.If you are familiar with the Festool PS-300 Trion, some of this saw's anatomy will be familiar, but there are a number of improvements and differences. We'll also discuss any appreciable difference between the Carvex and the Trion so you can decide between the two if you are looking at Festool jigsaws. Note that this means the Trion is not being discontinued. The Carvex is an addition to the jigsaw line.There's also a video discussion of the pendulum action of the Carvex and Trion. I captured some good slo-mo video to better demonstrate the differences in pendulum settings and discuss why certain settings are better than others for different materials.So the question is: why get a cordless jigsaw? In my case, I have a corded Trion and was curious about a cordless version. If I need to use a corded jigsaw, the Trion will work well. If I want to breakdown stock in the driveway, I'd prefer the cordless Carvex. Of course a cordless saw can be more convenient in the shop, although it is diminished by the lack of a "hose-less" dust extractor. In fact, I found that I'm so trained to see the extractor hose on the tool and think the extractor will start when I start the tool that I often started a demo with the extractor off. Fortunately, you can't read my lips in high-speed video :) So, please, someone invent a hoseless dust-extractor!28 minutes for a jigsaw review?!? By now you know I'm detailed; if you just want to see the saw in action, that's the first 5 minutes.
#84.2 - Gryphon C-40 Wet Bandsaw - Demo Half-Inch Shy 2013-07-24 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/05/gryphon-c-40-wet-bandsaw-review.htmlAwhile ago, I posted a video review of the Gryphon C-40 wet bandsaw, but didn't really cut glass or curves. I didn't have the right stock on hand to cut up for curves then posted it too quickly. Mea culpa.This video is the missing demos; we'll cut 8mm thick glass, porcelain tile, and natural travertine tile. All stock will get a straight cut, soft curves, then more aggressive curves. For the glass and porcelain tile, each cut is separate. On the large travertine tile, I made one long cut composed of the three segments.Remember that I'm pretty new to this bandsaw and I could see how practice especially with a particular material would make for better tracking.
#82.7 - No Comment #2 - Onyx Cap for the Tapered Octagon Half-Inch Shy 2013-07-19 | http://HalfInchShy.comGetting back to the Tim Burton table build (No Comment #2), today we'll look at cutting and polishing the piece of Onyx that caps the tapered octagon. We'll also go over making the molding that became a frame around the bottom.While I used the Bridge City Jointmaker Pro for cutting the molding, that's actually a pretty trivial use for that tool (but I like to use it and it's right there!) No Jointmaker? No problem, I show a technique at the end of the video that you may find useful for cutting miters in small molding without a Jointmaker and without a tablesaw or bandsaw.As a warning, there's some easy geometry in this episode... bisecting the angles (which are the miters for the frame) can be easily done with a compass. You learned it in middle school, but in case those neurons were fried in some college hazing incident, we'll go over it quickly. In the original build video, I used a Bridge City CT-4 (Angle Divider) and BS-5 to do without the geometry, but these nice layout tools are hard to come by.
#86 - Seneca Woodworking Domino Accessory Review and Preview Half-Inch Shy 2013-06-15 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/06/seneca-woodworking-domino-accessory.htmlRon and Ryan of Seneca Woodworking have been making some great accessories for the Domino; they're the ones who made the DomiPlate that production cabinet shops using the Domino really love.The DomiPlate was for the DF-500, so they've since come out with DomiShims for the DF-700 XL Domizilla as well as a bit adapter that allows the Domizilla to use the smaller DF-500 bits....but they are also up to some other things, and that'll be the preview portion of this review. The preview products will be useful to a lot of users besides changing the way DomiShims are sold. Good stuff. Ryan will be keeping us updated on the prototype releases on Seneca's blog, so read that one (after mine! :)These accessories blur the already blurry line between a "500 project" and a "700 project" as the 700 can now make mostly the same holes the 500 can. But there are still significant differences you'll need to consider before picking one or the other, the biggest factor being your current projects. I'll be posting an article early next week reviewing those differences.
#85 - Liogier Hand-Stitched Rasp Review Half-Inch Shy 2013-05-27 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/05/liogier-hand-stitched-rasp-review.htmlAwhile ago, I saw a great video of a French craftsman shaping a deer-hoof leg; he was using Liogier rasps pretty much start to finish. Mostly what caught my eye was that these rasps seemed to work... my previous experiences with rasps were with Nicholson #49 and #50 rasps (American made, pre-Brasil) along with some likely low-quality rasps and overall, they never became a go-to tool for shaping.So I ordered a few Liogier rasps to give them a try and really enjoyed using them to shape the 5 legs of the Tim Burton table demi-lune (the No Comment #2 build). These are definitely now in my first-choice pile of tools to shape wood.While shaping those legs, if I had a lot of stock to remove, I'd often play with rasps to get a better feel for how they work at shaping a curve (that I'd ultimately be removing anyway). There is a learning curve to them, like every tool, but mostly a lot of muscle memory for how to switch sides of a project and still push the rasp in the correct orientation.I cover a few basics of a rasp like grain and "handedness" so people new to rasps better understand the choices and how they work. If you're an avid rasp user, that part will be -yawn- review for you, but not too long.On my blog (link to this entry at the top of this description), I included a photo of my rasp order; another viewer who asked me long ago about these rasps found it useful as a starting place to sift through the options.
#84.1 - Gryphon C40 Wet Bandsaw - Review Half-Inch Shy 2013-05-19 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/05/gryphon-c-40-wet-bandsaw-review.htmlIn the "No Comment #2" build video around timecode 39:40, I processed a large piece of Onyx I scored from a local granite shop's dumpster, I mean, showroom. The first email I received after releasing the build video was "what's that wet bandsaw all about?"The next build video in the "No Comment #2" series (Tim Burton Table) will cover all the Onyx work for the top cap. Since that relies on this Gryphon wet bandsaw, I thought to review it first so I don't have to do that part in the build video.This saw is popular among artisans since it is so well designed and fits well in a studio. Cutting tile, stone slabs, rough stone, and glass is all very easy to do. Its glass-cutting ability would make it a fantastic tool for stained glass work. In my case, my interests were in being able to add stone accents to projects and possibly moving into some Pietra Dura, which is marquetry with stone.The version I have is from Paul Schürch, who modifies them to have a beveling table on the deck for the bevel cuts needed to inlay stone or do Pietra Dura; he uses one for his work as well as for teaching Pietra Dura classes. First chance I get, I'll take that class! They are special order from his store; if you get the saw from another distributor, it won't come with that addition, which may or may not interest you.Part 2 is the demo video and can be found here: http://youtu.be/KbN3UawSSQw
#82.6 - No Comment #2 - Bandsawing the Tapered Octagon Half-Inch Shy 2013-05-11 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/05/no-comment-2-bandsawing-tapered-octagon.htmlCutting the assembled tapered octagon was a lot of fun during this build because I got to use the bandsaw in a way I hadn't before. Certainly a technique I'll be exploring more in future builds!Basically, we built a sacrificial jig to hold the tapered octagon "spatially" in the correct orientation for the bandsaw blade to remove planes. While we could have computed the compound cut at the top of each triangle for the octagon to get a level top, to do two more cuts on each triangle to then remove the part for the table top would have been a lot of error-prone work... any deviation in length would have to be sanded out later (end grain!). Then add the work of triple the glue-up. Cutting the plane on the bandsaw, especially with a smooth-cutting Laguna Resaw King, left nothing to sand (sure there were tool marks, but those surfaces were perfect for gluing in this project).Ah, the mysterious holes in the jig are explained, too. Had some questions about those :)Do remember the design episode where I explained how the top part of the octagon changed. Originally, I wanted the octagon to continue through the table so the top piece needed to be exactly positioned so Dominos could go through the octagon top, the table, and into the octagon bottom. In the video flashback, I explain that cut that ultimately we didn't keep (but did use).However, properly cutting off that top piece does have an importance that we'll see in a future episode on the assembly. As a spoiler, I'll tell you :) That top piece was used as a template for where the Domino holes in the table top were needed in order to get them to go smoothly into the octagon bottom. Without that template, it would have been long and messy to position those Dominos; with that template, it was as simple as tracing the revealed mortises. But you'll see that in more close-up detail in the assembly episode.I think the next episode will be another bandsaw episode; editing all this old footage with some new narration mixed in has me busy in the video editor, not in the shop. Not a good thing. The next planned episode will at least have me running a tool or two!
#83 - Technique - Matching Existing Compound Angles Half-Inch Shy 2013-05-06 | http://HalfInchShy.comWhen stacking up compound cuts to make an octagonal cylinder or other multi-faceted object, the minor error in each cut also compounds making the last piece fit less than well.A better method I used for the tapered octagonal column ("tapered octagon" for short!) was to glue up the first seven facets then measure the exact part I needed for the eighth. Matching the miter angles of the part is easy, but usually there's confusion on how to measure the associated bevel angles. This short video (no, really! under 7 minutes!) shows how I did the measurement.I'll also discuss an animation at the end that shows a bit of how the bevel angle relates to the included angle and stock thickness.No math is used or harmed in this video; safe for all ages :)
#82.5 - No Comment #2 - Tapered Octagon Half-Inch Shy 2013-05-02 | http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/05/no-comment-2-tapered-octagon.htmlThe tapered octagon piercing through the shaped demi-lune top of the Tim Burton table (formerly known as No Comment #2) involves the nemesis of most woodworkers: compound angles (the stair builders are laughing right now...)True, compound angles are more complicated than square cuts with a square blade by a square woodworker :) ("triple square cuts"), but some techniques can make them really easy to work with and get great results.In this episode, a large part deals with cutting and Domino-ing the triangles that make up the tapered octagon along with some tips on eye-balling the cut with an angled fence and how to recover from Dominoing with a less than perfect bevel angle setting. The Domino trick actually comes in really useful in the triple-square arena as well.There was a lot of interest in the new-to-me technique of using the Domizilla to mortise through multiple parts simultaneously; the process is really easy (though I over-explain, I know), but saves on a lot of awkward calculation of other compound angles.Next up will be a short video on how to measure a compound angle off a project; this is really useful when you are making an n-sided object... make n-1 sides according to your formula and tool settings then calculate the last perfect-fitting piece directly off the rest. The savings in caulk alone make this worthwhile to learn!Sorry it's longer than I expected... jeez, it's just a tapered octagon!The full-build blog article can be found here: http://www.halfinchshy.com/2013/02/no-comment-2-full-build.htmlThe article and video on the Angle Madness - Jigs referenced in this video can be found here: http://www.halfinchshy.com/2012/04/angle-madness-jigs.html
#82.4 - No Comment #2 - Table Top Half-Inch Shy 2013-03-28 | http://HalfInchShy.comNormally a panel for a table is pretty trivial to put together: surface, joint, glue, done! While that's not always the case, it would be the Cliff Notes version.The table top for the Tim Burton table is another story with all the shaping on the underside, scalloped edges, and that it is a demi-lune pattern fanning out from a center. In this build video, I'll talk about why Dominos were used (not actually needed on a Cliff Note panel), how the ramp for the router works, and some of the aspects of laying out where the wedges come from.This episode doesn't cover the finishing as that will be covered in another episode.
#82.3 - No Comment #2 - Design Overview Half-Inch Shy 2013-03-23 | http://HalfInchShy.comIn fussing with these design videos, I decided to break them down into small areas of the build so you could surf the ones that are of interest and skip the others... but you won't, right? :)This first post-build video is of the design and where some of the ideas came from and some of the changes that happened along the way. Also shows the table where it will go and what the onyx cap is for.Subsequent build videos will cover each part in more detail, like the table top, the tapered octagon, the legs, a special video on just the stone shaping, coloring and finishing, and ultimately something on assembly since there are some interesting points to that as well.After putting you through an hour-long video, this one is just a bit over 8 minutes!Thanks for watching and welcome to the new subscribers... seemed to have gotten a lot lately!
#82.1 - No Comment #2 - Full Build Half-Inch Shy 2013-02-27 | http://HalfInchShy.comFOR THE GUITAR EDITION v11.0: http://youtu.be/d0J-9wZtztgI had a lot of fun with No Comment #1. Enough that I'd thought to continue the series with a small but fun build aptly named No Comment #2 (clever, no?). Like No Comment #1, I won't tell you what I'm building. This video is a full project build from start to finish in high-speed sections and multi-cams to keep you busy watching instead of snoozing! Guess as you watch it what I'm making. Some clues have appeared on this blog to, you know, build intrigue. My version of foreshadowing! (My blog link: http://HalfInchShy.com)Unlike No Comment #1, I'll be following up this initial build video with videos detailing different aspects of the build. There were some interesting techniques used in this build that can be applied to many of your projects.If you write a comment on this video (which I'd appreciate!), please don't put a spoiler in there as to what the project was. Someone not trying to see the comments may see "hey, nice grain elevator!" and it'll just ruin the effect :)The video is an hour long although my test victims who previewed many early versions never thought it too long; hopefully it'll be as interesting for you. Maybe go pee before you hit play!There are two versions of the video! It wasn't enough to drive myself batty with all this video editing that I mixed two soundtracks.This video uses the songs you've heard many times on previous podcasts. The other uses new music! It's all progressive guitar and rock instrumentals. It is very much what you'd hear in my shop, especially the newly-found favorite Daniel Bautista. For the guitar edition v11.0: http://youtu.be/d0J-9wZtztgSince the video is all music between a short introduction and final conclusion, you could always hit mute and play your favorite hair bands if you prefer.
#82.2 - No Comment #2 - Full Build - Guitar Edition v11.0 Half-Inch Shy 2013-02-27 | http://HalfInchShy.comFOR THE _NON_GUITAR EDITION: http://youtu.be/3K6EqZzMW9AI had a lot of fun with No Comment #1. Enough that I'd thought to continue the series with a small but fun build aptly named No Comment #2 (clever, no?). Like No Comment #1, I won't tell you what I'm building. This video is a full project build from start to finish in high-speed sections and multi-cams to keep you busy watching instead of snoozing! Guess as you watch it what I'm making. Some clues have appeared on this blog to, you know, build intrigue. My version of foreshadowing! (My blog link: http://HalfInchShy.com)Unlike No Comment #1, I'll be following up this initial build video with videos detailing different aspects of the build. There were some interesting techniques used in this build that can be applied to many of your projects.If you write a comment on this video (which I'd appreciate!), please don't put a spoiler in there as to what the project was. Someone not trying to see the comments may see "hey, nice grain elevator!" and it'll just ruin the effect :)The video is an hour long although my test victims who previewed many early versions never thought it too long; hopefully it'll be as interesting for you. Maybe go pee before you hit play!There are two versions of the video! It wasn't enough to drive myself batty with all this video editing that I mixed two soundtracks.This video uses new music! It's all progressive guitar and rock instrumentals. It is very much what you'd hear in my shop, especially the newly-found favorite Daniel Bautista.The other video uses the songs you've heard many times on previous podcasts. That non-rock guitar edition is here: http://youtu.be/3K6EqZzMW9ASince the video is all music between a short introduction and final conclusion, you could always hit mute and play your favorite hair bands if you prefer.
#81 - WIA12-Pasadena - Pilgrimage to Eagle Tools Half-Inch Shy 2013-01-06 | http://HalfInchShy.comThis is a bit late... while looking for free space on my video drive, I found some footage I took of Eagle Tools I hadn't edited! D'oh!To a power-tool woodworker, this video could be considered "NSFW"; you've been warned!My friend Roger introduced me to Eagle Tools about a year ago on a trip out to LA. You saw a bit of them when I toured the WIA'12-Pasadena marketplace floor.This clip is basically Chris and I wandering the store with a few stories from Jesse re-told; Jesse is the owner of Eagle Tools. He's a great guy with a lot of knowledge of his product line. Though Chris and I were just there to browse, we got a lot of show-n-tell on the Agazzani bandsaws, Incas, a variety of bandsaw blade guides, and the Festool room.I know Inca has a big fan-base and rightly so based on what I saw and learned. Eagle's the place for Inca. If I didn't have a scroll saw, I swear I'd have taken one of the smaller Inca bandsaws home to use as a scroll saw!There's some camera motion I tried to compensate for in editing; I was either too close to things or just too excited to hold the camera properly :)
#64.8 - Angle Madness! - Designing the Column, Rabeting the Tiers Half-Inch Shy 2012-11-26 | http://HalfInchShy.comAfter way Way WAY to long of a hiatus on this project, I got a hall-pass to go into the shop this long weekend. That, folks, is partly why it was called Thanksgiving weekend! :)The back is to get a column in Etimone, a beautiful Mahogany with a lot of color. While I've talked about it and waved my hands a lot while doing it, we never committed to any dimensions. I go through the design process I used to originally come up with the numbers for the column.The drawer tiers need the panels installed as well as the webbing. To install the panels into the drawer tiers, we need to rabbet the edge, but the edge is on an incline. The fact that each tier has 5 unique inclines means we can't use some normal techniques for doing the rabbet. I'll talk about some options and why I didn't chose them then show you how I did these.The section on rabbeting is longer than I expected, but it shows you some tricks to do the operation safely, even if you don't have a hotdog-phobic saw :) I think the techniques are useful in a lot of other operations.
#79 - WIA12-Pasadena - Decorative Arts at LACMA Half-Inch Shy 2012-11-03 | http://HalfInchShy.comThe last entry showed you the Metropolis II exhibit at LACMA. We actually went there to see woodworking and decorative arts, but Hot Wheels are hard to resist.Today's clip is a compilation of many short clips taken in LACMA's decorative arts wing. The place is huge. While there are lots of art that is nice to see, I didn't film it all. Though I wish I took a clip of the big billiard balls... next trip!The photos in this posting are actually frames from the video so they aren't as crisp as a camera shot; watch the video, though, to get swung around into place that are difficult to see unless you're a camera on the end of a long arm :)Because the museum is so dimly lit, I had to digitally process each clip to get some light into the shadows then color correct because of the processing. Because of that, you'll see more, but some colors may not be as true to reality as I'd like.The last clip of the video is actually from the Getty museum; it is a table top in pietra dura, otherwise called stone inlay. Gorgeous colors.If you are in the area, LACMA is a great place to spend a day.
#78 - WIA12-Pasadena - Metropolis II at LACMA Half-Inch Shy 2012-11-01 | http://HalfInchShy.comAfter the Woodworking in America conference in Pasadena this year, I stayed awhile longer to take in some woodworking sights and meet with some fantastic woodworkers.Chris Wong and I went to the LA County Museum of Art to see their decorative arts and also Metropolis II, an interesting piece of kinetic art made mostly of household items like Lincoln Logs, tile, blocks, along with a custom-made track and motor mechanism to drive the Matchbox cars around the display. There are also several electric trains in the exhibit that make stops along the way to their destination.The whole thing was Chris Burden's second piece to represent the busy busy city life complete with lots of traffic. It has 18 roadways including a 6-lane highway. Metropolis I only had 88 cars while Metropolis II picks up the pace with 1,800.The exhibit opened January 2012 and will run for 10 years.This video has no commentary; the first 3 minutes are a visual tour of the piece. The last 5 are as the piece comes to life with cars whipping around all over.Even while editing this clip, I noticed more and more things in the piece. Might need to pause the video a few times to catch everything.While not truly "woodworking", it's a fun exhibit. There were a number of great items in the decorative arts section that I'll be posting next.
#77 - WIA12-Pasadena - Day 0 Half-Inch Shy 2012-10-28 | http://HalfInchShy.comThis year again, I volunteered to be a customer demo guy for Bridge City Toolworks at Woodworking in America 2012 in Pasadena, California. As a demo guy, I got my hotel stay taken care of along with several excellent dinners and social events (in as much as woodworker social events are excellent... this isn't Mardi Gras in Rio de Janeiro!)We got there early Thursday morning only to end up hanging out with Lee Valley people for awhile since the convention center floor wasn't ready yet. Great group of people; I was with Chris Wong who works with them.This video is a collection of short clips taken throughout this first day setting up. As a warning, my arm makes a terrible camera tripod especially with the coffee I needed to get there at the crack of 9am! There was this bright thing in the sky...The start shows some setup shots, some other vendors in progress of setting up, some impromptu overview of the new Bridge City precision fence system for the Jointmaker Pro, a quick tour of the toy box Bridge City brings to the show with numerous out-of-production tools, and some video of a social evening we had at a friend's shop.At the social, Lee Marshal of Knew Concepts unpacked a made-to-order power saw he makes for the jewelry industry; if you do inlay with shell or bone, this will do so much better than a scroll saw for lack of blade oscillation. You'll also see the next version of the titanium fretsaw (the "birdcage" saw).
#76 - Festool Ti-15 Hybrid Impact Driver Review and Demo Half-Inch Shy 2012-10-09 | http://HalfInchShy.comI've had a Festool Ti-15 hybrid impact driver for about a month now; Festool USA kindly sent me one before the October 1st public launch for review purposes. Thanks!The Ti-15 is labeled a hybrid impact driver because it can also operate like a regular drill; for the tradesman, this can simplify life by giving you only one thing to carry for both functions and one set of batteries to keep track of. And like most of today's hybrids, it's green :)After editing this review, I realized it's a half hour. Some parts talking about how an impact driver works might bore those of you who already know; have a sudoku ready. But I've talked to people who don't know the benefits of 'impact' mode so it seemed relevant. Besides, you guys should be used to my long reviews :)The review ends with some demos mostly of the impact mode; we're all pretty familiar with a drill :)Popcorn ready? (Sudoku, too?!) cue it up...
#74 - Laguna 2hp Mobile Cyclone DC Review Half-Inch Shy 2012-09-20 | http://HalfInchShy.comSo a couple days ago, I posted a review of the Sens-Gard hearing protection... I never would have thought it would get the draw it did! Hearing protection: the new sexy!Other interesting thing... I got a bunch of emails asking about the Laguna 2hp Mobile Cyclone Dust Collector shown at the end of the video for the noise test. What's funny is that I recorded this review before the Sens-Gard review. Here I thought I'd get ahead on video for a change...The summary? I love it. Give the video a looksy to see why. Some good stuff in there even if we're just talking about a dust bucket.As mentioned in the video, many woodworking retailers are carrying this now including Rockler and Woodcraft. Since I don't see it on both of their sites but have seen them both available in my local stores, it is possible that only certain stores carry them.
#75 - SensGard Hearing Protection Review and Demo Half-Inch Shy 2012-09-19 | http://HalfInchShy.comSince it's been at least a few weeks since I was a teen able to listen to heavy metal on "11" all day with obviously no damage (teens are invincible; stuff happens to other people...) I now actually find I like working with these on more than off.SensGard makes two varieties of the ZEM hearing protection (you'll see it listed as ZEM not SensGard at local woodworking stores; dunno why). A -26db attenuating and a -31db attenuating pair.I wanted to review these about a year ago, but had no idea how to show you how well it works given my camera equipment at the time. Now, I have a microphone I used so you can hear the difference. I made sure the audio path to the camera wasn't going to mess with the sound so no automatic gain control or clipping.
#73 - Recoveries - Fixing Veneer Bubbles and Related Topics Half-Inch Shy 2012-09-14 | http://HalfInchShy.comLet me be the first to admit that doing 12 veneered panels of varying sizes in my shop is kinda no fun. Takes all the available space between bags, work tables, "veneer flattening areas", and places to aerate the finished panels until they finish curing. Plus at night when I'd think, "oh, time to go make another panel", I had flashbacks of the movie "Groundhog Day" only without the fun of ice carving.All the burl panels came out great; only one has a bubble on it so we'll go repair it and talk about a couple other related topics including an experiment I did with some of the remaining scrap veneer to see how fine a gap you can get away with during a glue-up.I've scraped and sanded all but this last panel now so we can move on to looking at the drawer webbing and back column.Hope the weather in your area is starting to feel more like shop weather!
#64.7 Angle Madness! - Veneering the 4-Way Bookmatch Half-Inch Shy 2012-08-23 | http://HalfInchShy.comIn this episode, I work on the Maple burl panels that will adorn the tops of the drawer tiers. Each is will be book-and-end matched more often called "4-way bookmatched". However, as we discussed in the last episode, I'm placing the burl cloud to the outside edges of the panels, which adds an extra step in the second set of bookmatches of the "4-way". You can see the burl cloud on these two panels.We'll talk about testing for bubbles; I have one I found tonight on a burl panel; I'll roll a short video this weekend showing the repair.The end of the video has a high-speed start-to-finish glue-up of the panel to act as a bit of a check-list for doing a panel glue-up in a vacuum press. Easy to do, but I was surprised when I started annotating it just how many steps there are.
#64.6 - Angle Madness! - Veneering the Panels Half-Inch Shy 2012-08-04 | http://HalfInchShy.comThis was a time-consuming episode to get together! A lot going on!In this episode, we'll veneer the panels for the drawer tiers. I want to do the panels now so I can determine the size of the drawer webbing that will be between the panels in each tier. And also, it is time consuming to go through 12 panels (cuz I'm making 2 units) so while I do some of the panels, I can be making progress on laying out the webbing.This episode is longer than most because I try to go through everything. If you've done some veneering, some parts will make excellent bathroom breaks. But if you haven't, you'll get to see it all including some design decisions at the end for how to do the book-and-end match (4-way bookmatch) of the Maple burl.Next up, preparing the drawer tiers for the panels, figuring out the drawer webbing, and... oh, yeah, there's a column in the back and some Nickel-plated rods! hmm... :)Thanks for watching and thanks for the patience on these longer sections!
#64.5 - Angle Madness - Dominoing the Drawer Tiers Half-Inch Shy 2012-06-27 | http://HalfInchShy.comFinally got a chance to get back at editing this video; apologies, work got crazy.In this episode, we'll Domino the curly Maple shell of the diamond-shaped cabinet tiers for a dry fit. We can only do a dry fit for now since there's a whole drawer webbing to make on the inside as well as the top and bottom veneered panels (next episode!)Using the Domino on a bevel angle has a few challenges mostly with being precise so you get a perfect dry-fit joint that doesn't require a clamp to fight the mis-aligned Domino. There are ways to correct for that, and I go over it a bit in this episode.Since Dominos on a beveled edge can get close to the outside show surface, there are also considerations beyond the obvious: don't pop through! Careful placement and glue-up will avoid finishing problems later.Thanks for watching!
#72 - Bridge City Angle Master Pro AMPv2 Review Half-Inch Shy 2012-05-29 | http://HalfInchShy.comIf you've followed my recent Angle Madness! project build, you know there are a lot of goofy angles compounding around the cabinet. I wanted to use a measuring device that's highly accurate for setting angles so any mistake was going to be how I lined up the cut at the end. The Angle Master Pro (AMPv2) from Bridge City was just the device I needed.Truthfully, I thought of this Angle Madness! cabinet over a year ago, but just as I was considering starting it, Bridge City announced the AMPv2. I put the project on hold (I have plenty to choose from :) and waited to get it.This review discusses the parts, how to use it, the optional accessories, and lastly (so you can run if you want to...) the math behind the AMPv2.Sadly, it isn't inexpensive, but the more I get into angles for projects, the more this device will find itself among the required tools to pull off a project without undue sanding, filling, and creative vocabulary.Addendum: on my blog as well as here, two people asked an obvious question I should have answered about using a digital protractor. I intended to cover that when I first thought of doing this review weeks ago, but my day job kinda pickled my brain in the past 2 weeks...That said, the following is a reply comment I posted to the question on my blog. You can more easily reply there plus the follow-up posting will be written on the blog and not a video (so nothing here). The following is a link to the blog posting followed by the reply comment... and thanks for bringing up that question as it's a good one I should have answered initially:http://www.halfinchshy.com/2012/05/bridge-city-angle-master-pro-review.htmlComment Reply:A good question, Damien. I should have put something in the video on that.I don't know which digital angle gauge you might be thinking of, but when I was first going to start this project, the digital angle gauges were accurate to 0.2º. I just re-checked the Wixley site and they now have a 300 series that is accurate to 0.1º, protractors, too. I'm glad to know that now (±0.2º is a fair amount of error in previous models).So the question is: is 0.1º accuracy enough to not have the back facet board dip down (or up) significantly from the flat reference surface by the time you compound any errors through 7 compound angles? The 8th I mention is the back board and could be custom cut to match whatever the angle presented is as the back is vertical with no tilt.With previous models (~2 years ago) having 0.2º of error, I did a simplified calculation with just 4 sides to the box and the back had more dip to it than I'd want to deal with. Part of what complicates matters on this project is that I need to rip each board with a bevel matching its inclination. If the compound angles on the boards start accumulating error, the inclination of the faces changes, the required rip bevel changes (plus it would have an error as well). Overall, it was too daunting to consider so I shelved it. Sure there were ways around all that, but none I can think of don't scream insanely-tedious :)0.1º halves the error. Granted, it is still 50 times the error of the AMPv2, but who is to say 0.1º isn't satisfactory?It's not a calculation I can whip out in a minute, but I do know how I can run this through my program with different error values to see what the effects are on the back corner. I'll make a follow-up posting with those results later this week.Stay tuned... and thanks for the question.
#64.4 - Angle Madness! - Final Stock Dimensioning Half-Inch Shy 2012-05-16 | http://HalfInchShy.comThe last episode marked off the pieces for the shell of the diamond-shaped cabinet so all we have to do this time is crosscut and rip cut each piece appropriately. As you'd suspect, the angles get in there and make a mess of things for this, too. Fortunately, once we're done with the outer shell, the insides become more 'normal' with only a few minor changes due to the angles (at least that's what I keep telling myself!)The cross-cut sled from the jigs episode gets used to death in this episode for doing the cross-cuts, naturally, but also for doing the rip cuts on those small pieces that have funky mitered angles on their ends. It all can sound complicated, but really the process is pretty quick (uhm, sans cameras...) and easy. Just requires some organization. Along the way, I'll show you how to use previously-cut mock-up pieces to "square up" a piece for better reference (no mock-up? no problem, just cut some scrap with the triangle).In the next episode, we'll use the Domino (surprise!) to join the boards then get started on the inner drawer webbing. That webbing is very similar to what you'd do in a normal project with just a few projected boards being used to grab the angled shell as an anchor point. So really, I think the hardest part is behind us after this episode... I hope!
#64.3 - Angle Madness! - Stock Prep from Hell Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-30 | http://HalfInchShy.comWith Domizilla off probably invading Tokyo, I got a chance to get back to the Angle Madness entertainment center. I should call it "the diamond cabinet formerly known as the entertainment center" as 'entertainment center' draws up so many uninspired chain furniture store images in my head...This episode. hmm. It is stock selection and preparation, BUT due to all the inclinations, miters, and bevels, almost every aspect of "stock preparation" is affected. There's nothing normal about the prep work needed on the stock for this cabinet!While you may not plan on making a diamond-shaped cabinet, I think this episode will help you see some of the additional work needed up front during stock preparation of a project with inclined sides or "coopered" sides of sorts. There should be some useful take-away (I hope!)This one was a challenge to record with dual cameras; some of the lighting issues for the overhead cam will be resolved in future episodes, though they aren't too bad now.If you like how this is going, lemme know in the comments or press the little thumbs-up button... I already have a troll taking care of the thumbs-down for ya :)
#71 - Domino Crib Sheet - 3 Topics - Mid-Panel Joinery, Cut-to-Length Stock, Pinning Joints Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-22 | http://HalfInchShy.comIn this Domino crib sheet, I demonstrate two techniques for placing a joint accurately mid-panel. You'd typically do this to Domino a shelf into the side of a cabinet, but I've also used this many times to place smaller 'rail/stile' pieces mid-panel as well. One technique lets you set the top of the shelf or joining member while the other lets you center it on a line.The second topic is more a continuation of the Domizilla review I did recently since I now have the cut-to-length tenon stock that is being released with the Domino XL DF-700. Even if you don't have an XL, the 8mm and 10mm cut-to-length stock will be useful for times when you need a different custom tenon length. Personally, I've made my own longer DF-500 tenons on a couple home projects (stair refacing, suspended shelving, and installation French cleat for a built-in cabinet).Third topic, pinning joints with a 23ga pin nailer. I did a demonstration of this in a previous DF-500 demo, but it's useful enough for a re-run. This can significantly reduce your need for clamps with certain builds, but regardless that benefit, it adds strength.For disclosure, I received the Domino XL early as part of the Test Drive program, which requires testers to return the full kit on June 1, 2012 or allows the testers to purchase it at a small discount.
#70 - Domino Crib Sheet - Grain and Angles Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-20 | http://HalfInchShy.comToday's Domino topics revolve around being aware of the types of glue joints you can make with a Domino and how they differ from those of a traditional mortise-and-tenon (M&T: meticulous & time-consuming :) kidding! hey, put down that pitchfork...)Other topics involve miter joints (not too tricky) and mortising on a bevel (can be tricky). My Angle Madness project has a number of crazy bevels to be joined with the Domino so getting this right is important or re-learning all that math is for naught!By the way, I haven't forgotten that project, but this Domizilla character kinda shook up the shop for a weekend...For disclosure, I received the Domino XL early as part of the Test Drive program, which requires testers to return the full kit on June 1, 2012 or allows the testers to purchase it at a small discount.
#69 - Domino Crib Sheet - Prefer the Quick-Height Setting and Domino Drawboring Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-18 | http://HalfInchShy.comThis video crib sheet has two tips. The first is to use the quick-height setting on the side of the fence even when that doesn't center the tenon. Actually, even when I set the fence by hand, I never set it dead center for reasons demonstrated in the video (and that have saved a frantic glue-up or two).The second tip discusses drawboring. Drawboring a tenon involves using a peg through the tenon and an offset hole that causes the tenon to pull the joint tight and hold it there. Fantastic for strength and it's clamp-free! The tenons for the original Domino are, to me, too small to be used for drawboring, but the XL's tenons are much larger and heftier and seem to drawbore pretty well. Now if you go back and see my video on making oversized mortises with the XL quickly and easily, you'll see a huge amount of drawbore potential.For disclosure, I received the Domino XL early as part of the Test Drive program, which requires testers to return the full kit on June 1, 2012 or allows the testers to purchase it at a small discount.
#68 - Domino Crib Sheet - Screw Holding Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-17 | http://HalfInchShy.com The ongoing crib sheet theme... another installment! This is a quick demonstration of how to use a Domino to significantly improve screw holding in man-made materials like MDF (in the demo), waferboard, particle board, or MCP (commonly called 'Melamine'). The technique is pretty low-tech, but helps a lot when making things like cabinet lowers or other utility box that's later adorned with countertops.
#67 - Domino Crib Sheet - How do you glue? Half-Inch Shy 2012-04-16 | http://HalfInchShy.com When I did a review of the Domino XL DF-700 'domizilla', I mentioned a forthcoming video on Domino joints; I called it an encyclopedia, but that sounds far too authoritative for me. Hence the high-school crib sheet :) I have a lot of footage to edit and thought only insomniacs would enjoy watching it all in a sitting, so I'm going to break it up into small snippets like this one; some will include multiple tips, but none will require pausing for potty breaks. This first video of the series does a glue-up experiment. I often hear people say they only apply glue inside the Domino mortise for both speed and little to no squeeze-out meaning little to no cleanup. Personally, I put it on both the Domino and in the mortise, but who's to say that isn't just overkill and a lot of cleanup. This video shows an experiment I did applying glue to a mortise-only and to both. Even if instinctively you think glue in only the mortise is weaker, is it too weak to use? Might be strong enough.
