Chemist Confessions
#80: Using Tretinoin Long-Term Bad for Skin? | Chemist Confessions Podcast 2024!
updated
00:01 | What exactly is Sulfur in skincare?
00:01 | How did Sulfur enter the world of skincare?
00:02 | What is the characteristic scent of Sulfur?
00:02 | Is Sulfur an OTC acne treatment?
00:03 | Why is Sulfur challenging to formulate topically?
00:06 | What is the main mechanism of Sulfur for acne?
00:07 | Does Sulfur have oil-absorbing and antimicrobial properties?
00:13 | Fascinating (and questionable) 1960s Sulfur research
00:19 | Animal Fun Fact: How the Kingfisher inspired Japan's Shinkansen
00:23 | Sulfur in Skincare: Realistic Expectations and Final Thoughts
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1766357
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser
Enrichment Content:
Sunscreen Layering Guide
youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc
Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams
Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack
๐จ๏ธ Texture notes: A unique take on a sulfur spot treatment! After cleansing, apply the powder onto the pimple like a spot treat, and the powder melts into skin.
๐งช Ingredient notes: Also contains niacinamide and L-carnitine to help with excess oil
ps. Stay tuned for our upcoming sulfur deep dive on the podcast!
00:00 | Our experience with skin irritation
00:28 | Welcome to the Chemist Confessions Podcast
01:32 | My skin is red, itchy, and stinging... What should I do?
02:52 | What is a compromised skin barrier?
06:26 | The irritant potential of SLS on different skin types
10:42 | The psychology of itch and skin conditions
12:32 | Measuring flares and bumps on skin
14:05 | Cutting back on your skincare routine
16:54 | Which actives should you cut when your skin is irritated?
23:42 | How to know your skin is ready to add products back into your routine
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*A small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. (Thank you!)
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Aquafix Soothing Hydrating Serum
chemistconfessions.com/products/aquafix-hydrating-water-gel
Enrichment Content:
Navigating Plant Extracts: A Guide
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/botanicals-a-skincare-ingredient-jungle
EP136: Can You Just Use Water to Cleanse Your Face?
youtube.com/watch?v=8GDay3OeG7Q
Follow us:
IG: instagram.com/chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack
00:00 | Do hypochlorous sprays actually hydrate skin?
00:43 | Tower 28, Magic Molecule & Prequel โ first impressions
01:36 | Whatโs inside hypochlorous sprays? Formula breakdown
02:18 | Should you use sprays throughout the day? Dry skin concerns
04:24 | Tower 28โs consumer perception study results
06:18 | Magic Moleculeโs drug-like claims explained
08:10 | Can hypochlorous sprays really treat acne, burns & more?
12:59 | Prequelโs bold claims: hydration, odor control & redness
15:26 | Secret option: Protechโs stability data revealed
24:40 | Should you use hypochlorous sprays daily or only for flare-ups?
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
๐งช Hypochlorous acid gets tied to a plethora of skin benefits, but the data around hypochlorous acid is still in its early stages. Some will find success, some won't.
youtube.com/watch?v=mPNVP12zxUg&list=PLldQkxjc7bYnFkUtOw8Y07yCyBnaF4ddx
youtu.be/IAwaPGkFDQM?si=V3mqIgdnk-VejL9Z
youtu.be/_l2cn4JpT6w?si=MpIb9Sa3LaOCGvr9
00:00 | Welcome & todayโs topic: Hypochlorous Acid in skincare
01:30 | Why hypochlorous acid is trending in acne care
03:10 | What exactly is hypochlorous acid?
04:00 | How it started in disinfectants and entered skincare
06:00 | Why stability is the biggest challenge for this ingredient
07:30 | Ideal pH range for stability & why it matters
16:25 | What does hypochlorous acid actually do for skin?
19:20 | Scar care: Does it help with healing and marks?
24:30 | Eczema & soothing itch: what the studies show
36:00 | Acne treatment: Comparing hypochlorous acid vs benzoyl peroxide
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
youtu.be/xlpeOkTg9_o?si=aKQlVouY2RiJybjR
youtube.com/shorts/UEKB6j1ATCw?si=w0rkl0buqATE8FaZ
youtu.be/3Ibu-DHr2qE?si=acqCZws35lUb-CZB
Ever wanted to be the first to test our skincare products before it hits the shelves? (FOR FREE) ๐โจ Nowโs your chance!
youtu.be/3Ibu-DHr2qE?si=rAsnTy7soEQl1GQ9
00:00 | Is 4 weeks enough for skincare studies?
00:23 | Breaking down Vitamin C product lineup
00:45 | Affordable Vitamin C serum: Vanicream review
01:33 | Dr. Idriss Major Fade Cream โ worth it?
01:52 | Sunday Riley CEO Cream texture test
02:15 | Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe Face Oil explained
02:36 | Revision Skincare C+ Correcting Complex review
03:19 | Why texture matters in Vitamin C creams
10:05 | Ingredient breakdown: CEO vs Dr. Idriss
13:42 | Can Major Fade really tackle hyperpigmentation?
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser
Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg
From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin
Follow us:
IG: instagram.com/chemist.confessions/?hl=en
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack
youtu.be/X9wfbFIUIJg?si=SsQZmFjUvlkxcSLD
youtu.be/X9wfbFIUIJg?si=VbzREIoJEZi4YiTB
youtu.be/1YuGAVnTAdw?si=Sna80Xk6wUyi1RTd
youtu.be/NJ9yjcMMxVw?si=X9bw09PVDyxC59gj
youtu.be/r4FFJv3KPPY?si=8lSzb4gziLMjCDj-
Timestamps
00:00 | Is THD Ascorbate a Good Antioxidant?
00:41 | Why People Are Curious About Vitamin C Derivatives
01:07 | How THD Compares to Ascorbic Acid in ORAC Assay
03:05 | Why THD May Be 30,000x Weaker Than Ascorbic Acid
05:10 | THD vs Acetyl Zingerone in Antioxidant Efficiency
06:17 | Stability Problems of THD Under Oxidative Stress
08:17 | Does THD Have Clinical Benefits Despite Weak Data?
09:15 | Anti-aging & Hyperpigmentation Study with THD
14:14 | Does Higher THD % Improve Pigmentation Results?
16:36 | Clinical Trial with 30% THD During Summer Exposure
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser
Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg
From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin
Follow us:
IG: instagram.com/chemist.confessions/?hl=en
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack
youtu.be/X9wfbFIUIJg?si=Cpw1iEA-yE2nfAp8
๐ DAY 30 - Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++
๐ Notes: Has a cooling effect, scent of menthol/alcohol is pretty strong, robust formula, 80 minute water resistance
๐ Rating: 10/10 - still our fave!
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 29 - Glow Recipe's Watermelon Glow Dew with Niacinamide SPF 30 PA++++
๐ Notes: REALLY long application time, can irritate eyes, has an oily finish
๐ Rating: 3/10 - sadly a pass for us
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
00:20 | Chemist Confessions Podcast: Addressing the Sunscreen Drama
01:00 | How to Shop for Sunscreen
01:49 | Method to Shop for Sunscreen: Addressing Concerns and Finding Confidence
02:29 | Starting Point: Chemical Fluid or Lotion Formulas
03:17 | Asian or EU Sunscreens (Chemical)
05:29 | Why are US Sunscreens Different? (Texture Discussion)
07:41 | When to Choose Mineral Sunscreens (Acne, Irritation, Sensitivity)
08:40 | Mineral Sunscreen Controversy: Are "Mineral" Sunscreens Truly Mineral?
09:58 | Understanding UV Boosters in Sunscreen Formulas
12:01 | Quirky Traits of Mineral Sunscreens: White Cast and Powdery Formulas
30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Compiled Summary
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1766357
Other products discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser
Enrichment Content:
Can You Layer Foundation With Sunscreen
youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc&t=1356s
Chemistsโ Complete Sunscreen Review Guide
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-best-use-cleansers
Follow us:
IG: instagram.com/chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfesโฆ
๐ DAY 28 - Beauty of Joseon Aqua Fresh SPF 50+ PA++++
๐ Notes: Thin milky formula, watery texture, slow absorption, leaves a slight residue, film is clean, powdery and holds up really well
๐ Rating: 9/10 - Good formula and solid finish (Victoria's top pick)
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 27 - Elemis's Pro Collagen Skin Protection Fluid SPF 50
๐ Notes: Chemical sunscreen, great and comfortable texture, minimal film, doesn't leave a shiny finish (you might prefer this if you have oily skin)
๐ Rating: 8/10 - One of the better ones but a bit expensive
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 26 - Prequel Solar Shade Sunscreen SPF 46 PA++++
๐ Notes: Thin fluid chemical sunscreen, leaves a slight residue but comfortable to wear
๐ Rating: 6.5/10 Absorbs quickly but has a shiny finish
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 25 - Tocobo Bio Watery Sun Cream SPF50 PA++++
๐ Notes: Longer rub in time, comfortable to wear for the most part but has a slight sheen and plastic-like finish
๐ Rating: 7.5/10 - Uncomfortable to wear in humid weather
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
Check out our podcast episode on Raising Good Humans with Dr. Aliza Pressman where we put your favorite baby wipes to the test and discuss all of the science that goes into WaterWipes. #WaterWipesPartner
youtube.com/watch?v=D1-hJlfJP44
๐ DAY 24 - d'Alba Piedmont Italian White Truffle Waterfall Essence Sunscreen
๐ Notes: Slow absorption and surprisingly draggy texture
๐ Rating: 5/10 - Most Kbeauty-turned-US filters sunscreens aren't a bad option, but this one can be skipped
#sunscreen #spfskincare #cosmeticchemist
00:00 | Introduction & Double Cleansing Journey Overview
00:28 | Why Oily Skin Types Hesitate with Double Cleansing
01:15 | Cleansing Oils vs Gel Cleansers: Goals of the 100-Day Test
02:03 | Double Cleansing for Sebaceous Filaments & Congestion
05:07 | Oil Cleanser Rub-In Experience & Unexpected Discoveries
06:22 | Oil Cleanser Preferences & Vision Blur Issues
10:04 | Luxe Oil Cleansers: Tatcha vs. Dewy Ethereal
24:31 | Gel Cleansers Reviewed by Texture & Skin Feel
49:30 | CONCLUSION!
Other products discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser
Enrichment Content:
Chemistsโ Review 5 Kbeauty Cleansing Oils
youtube.com/watch?v=3WiF-LYh1no&t=380s
Chemistsโ Double Cleansing Guide
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-best-use-cleansers
Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfesโฆ
๐ DAY 23 - Anua Heartleaf Silky Moisture Cream SPF 50+ PA++++ (Korean Version)
๐ Notes: Creamy lotion with quicker absorption, leaves a soft, powdery finish
๐ Rating: 8/10 - For those that would like a sunscreen with quicker dry time and a creamy, moisturized, clean finish
#sunscreen #spfskincare #cosmeticchemist
๐ DAY 22 - Coppertone Every Tone Invisible Finish Face
๐ Notes: Anhydrous, oily, silicone texture, moderate rub in time, banana scent, sheen finish, no white cast
๐ Rating: Very greasy 4/10
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 21 - Paula's Choice Youth Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid
๐ Notes: Very fluid formula - doesn't match the packaging, rubs in very quickly, light finish, lightly moisturizing
๐ Rating: Very comfortable to wear (Gloria's favorite), but points off for the packaging and smell 8.5/10
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
00:00 | Vitamin C Serum Claims and Transparency
00:33 | What Is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
01:16 | The Aesthetic
02:13 | Skin Type Notes
03:38 | Comparing Serum Formulations and Aging Impact
04:28 | Weird But Fascinating: The Case of ELFโs C Ferulic Dupe
05:57 | Niacinamide Levels and Additional Actives Breakdown
06:29 | Should You Trust Label Claims Without Ingredient Context?
07:25 | Numbersin's Transparency and Ingredient Ratios
09:33 | Innisfreeโs Clinical Testing vs Marketing Claims
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Mr. Reliable Moisturizer with 3% Ceramide Complex
chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer
Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg
From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin
Follow us:
IG: instagram.com/chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: chemistconfessions.com
TIKTOK: tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack
๐ DAY 20 - TirTir Mask Fit Cushion SPF50+ PA+++
๐ Notes: Buildable coverage, pleasant texture, great finish, and stays intact
๐ Rating: Great foundation formala and can probably work well over other SPFs 10/10
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 19 - Allies of Skin The One SPF 50
๐ Notes: Anhydrous silicone suspension (similar to Supergoop's Unseen), finish is more powdery and matte but film needs extra time to rub in
๐ Rating: Remember this texture isn't our favorite but we would still prefer Supergoop's OG formula or even Trader Joe's 4/10
youtube.com/watch?v=f99-IK5Gkpw&t=1s
๐ DAY 18 - Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief US Version
๐ Notes: Filmy finish, dewy shine, comfortable to wear
๐ Rating: For oily skin - the film held up really well but might look 'greasy' after reapplication 7.5/10
youtube.com/watch?v=r4FFJv3KPPY&t=378s
๐ DAY 17 - The Ordinary's UV Filters SPF45 Serum PA++++
๐ Notes: Takes longer to rub in, really shiny finish, has a nourishing feel, robust and budget-friendly
๐ Rating: Finish can feel heavy on oily skin 6.5/10
youtube.com/watch?v=r4FFJv3KPPY&t=378s


