what do you do during lockdown when you don't have enough fabric to make a late Victorian walking skirt? I make it anyway. The result? Well, acceptable.
I am slooowly hand stitching a wardrobe inspired by the late Victorian and early Edwardian periods. I hope you"ll enjoy the video.
Making an 1898 late Victorian walking skirtA Penchant for Sewing2021-04-10 | Hello there,
what do you do during lockdown when you don't have enough fabric to make a late Victorian walking skirt? I make it anyway. The result? Well, acceptable.
I am slooowly hand stitching a wardrobe inspired by the late Victorian and early Edwardian periods. I hope you"ll enjoy the video.BumpadA Penchant for Sewing2023-05-11 | ...Backstitching: Have you ever wondered what the wrong side should look like?A Penchant for Sewing2023-04-27 | Hello,
I'm rather insecure about the wrong side of my stitching. You must've noticed that I hardly ever show it to you, which sometimes feels like lying. The wrong side is the integral part of a garment, isn't it? So you should be allowed to see it. Before making this video, I tried to perfect my backstitching. I don't think I succeeded, but I've become a tiny bit more relaxed about my sewing. If you're new to hand sewing, you may wonder if it's normal to have an ugly wrong side. You can chill out. It is.
As I'm a very insecure person, I didn't have the courage to make a tutorial on backstitching, I chose to show you how I do it instead. When I first started hand sewing my clothes I was very confused, this video might ease your anxiety.
A few weeks ago I sewed a pocket. I didn't understand the pattern (kind of shameful, it's just a simple pocket), so I altered it. Then a viewer kindly explained where I went wrong. I felt compelled to make another pocket. Both pockets are fully functional, but different.
Ages ago I made a late Victorian coat mock-up. I haven't made the coat yet for several reason. I didn't want to waste the fabric of the mock-up so I decided to make it into something. I couldn't decide if I should sew a dress or a nightgown, then I realised I didn't have to make up my mind, because I'd be able to wear it in three different ways.
I altered the coat pattern to have a centre closure, gathered neck and high band collar. I removed the darts (or rather pleats) from the front to gain more freedom of movement in case I want to use the dress as a nightgown. I haven't figured out how to finish the sleeves, which at this point don't look great. This fabric definitely needs some sort of support.Victorianish pocketA Penchant for Sewing2023-03-20 | Hello,
You know my strong dislike for pockets. Well, it didn't stop me from sewing yet another one.
It's hight time I showed you how I finished my two late Victorianish high waisted skirts. I didn't aim for historical accuracy so bear that in mind if you'd like to follow what I did.
I kind of abandoned my late Victorian gingham outfit project because I didn't like how the skirt turned out. I bought some more of the fabric but then I made a princess skirt and kept thinking about sewing another princess skirt from the gingham. I found a drafting book from 1908. Not from 1804 as I stated in the video. I can't account for that mistake. It contains different princess skirt patterns with pleats in the centre back. I did not use the book for drafting a pattern, I only borrowed the idea of pleats to adjust my existing pattern.
My previous princess skirt sits too low. My mock up was OK but I couldn't fit the actual skirt tight enough as it compromised my breathing, consequently the skirt is pulled down by its own weight. This time I made the corselet two inches higher. It's much prettier and stays in place better. I'll try to make it as tight fitting as possible.
The skirt isn't boned and I don't wear a corset. I fitted it over a petticoat but no bum or hip pad. If you wear a corset and all the necessary underthings, you'll rock in a princess skirt.
Please note this is not a tutorial for a historically accurate princess skirt.
It's been cold lately and I'm in desperate need of warm nightwear. I bought some plaid flannel for a petticoat but I changed my mind and decided to make pyjamas instead. I used the pattern of my 1893 drawers and the yoke pattern of my 1904 drawers. I didn't have enough fabric so I could only make the bottom, and I had to make it a little bit short.
I think for the shirt I'll get some plain flannel, the green plaid would be too much. I'm thinking about making it really pretty, something like an Edwardian shirtwaist.
I love the way late Victorians used to dress so I took inspiration from an 1893 princess/corselet skirt and an 1899 great coat to make a high waisted skirt. I didn't want to bone it so I tried to find alternatives to boning. Please note this video is not a tutorial. I wanted to show you how I made my skirt and not how Victorians made their skirts.
Pictures and description of skirt in The Delineator: http://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/28 http://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/48 https://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/50
I promised you I would make an 1899 great coat a long time ago. I didn't for several reasons. I had exceptional luck finding a 120 year old pattern that (almost) perfectly fits my back. I have a long upper body and an aching sway back. Distributing the weight of my skirts is something I need to experiment with. I also need to raise the waisline of my skirts at least 2 inches / 5 centimetres to create a favourable optical illusion. Otherwise my Victorianish/Edwardianish garments don't look as flattering as I wish them to. I often use belts to raise my waistline but they give me lumbar pain. So I decided to make a skirt whose weight is balanced and which follows my shape therefore doesn't put much pressure on my spine. Using the late Victorian great coat pattern to make a high waisted skirt pattern seemed and I believe proved to be an excellent idea.
High waisted/corselet/princess skirts used to be boned. I can't tolerate plastic (or steel) for environmental reasons so I will not bone my skirt. I'm trying to create a semi-boned effect, we'll see how successfully.
Without proper boning I wouldn't be able to make the waist very high, at least that's what I'm telling myself after messing up the pattern by cutting it too low.
As it is a nine gore skirt I didn't feel motivated to handsew it. I feel I let myself down by using my antique hand crank sewing machine. It's an absolute beauty and I love the noise it makes but I think my handstitches are superior to machine stitches. The only thing that justifies my using of the machine is that hand sewing the very thick seams would kill my back, joints and needles.
Of course, there's still a lot to handstich on the skirt, and I've already spent hours basting it.
Pictures and description of skirt in The Delineator: http://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/28 http://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/48 https://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth1891092_42_3#page/50
I stumbled upon an Edwardian baby's nightgown pattern. I thought I could give it a go. I encountered a few difficulties, so it took more time to finish it than I'd expected.
The book with the pattern: Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out : Specially Adapted for Teachers of Sewing, Students, and Pupil-Teachers by Walker, Agnes
I tried a 1904 drawers pattern. It didn't turn out as I'd expected, so I decided not to waste any of my antique laces to embellish them but to use them for practising embroidery.
I bought some very old laundry soap that was made from animal fat and lye. I don't know much about it but I'm almost certain it is at least 50 years old. My mum says her parents stopped making soap in the 1970s. I don't think many people would go on making their own soap in the 1980s.
My gransparents' soap was of very good quality. It cleaned and moisturized your skin at the same time. Unfortunately, this soup, which was made by a different family in a different region of the country, dries my skin. Still, it is much better than any commercially available fancy soaps.
I have used it to successfully remove all kinds of stains - but of course not any kind of stains.
This video shows you one of my experiments.
I promise you'll be able to remove ink, blood, grass and oil stains without trace with our grandparents' soap.
I have no idea if anyone still makes this old fashioned lye soap. I tried to check it on the internet but with little success. They might call it the good old lye soap but it usually isn't the real thing. You'll most probably find in old attics.1907 Edwardian babys nightgown / Christening gown PART1A Penchant for Sewing2022-07-04 | Hello,
I stumbled upon an Edwardian baby's nightgown pattern. I thought I could give it a go. I encountered a few difficulties, so couldn't finish it, there will be a part2.
The book with the pattern: Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out : Specially Adapted for Teachers of Sewing, Students, and Pupil-Teachers by Walker, Agnes
I came across the photo of an 1891 suspender belt in the V&A's collection. It was just what I needed because I wear above the knee high socks all year round. I have just switched to drawers from leggings, so I need something to hold my socks in place. Also, I want to switch to proper cotton stockings.
I hadn't researched garter belts before I started sewing one. I had never worn such a thing. In the future I will need to explore them. This was my first attempt, far from perfect but wearable. I just need to swap the front and back.
You may think I'm crazy, but I do wear underwear under my Victorianish/Edwardianish underwear. I tried to make some that aren't outrageously modern but could also be worn undern modern clothes as well. I don't wear a corset, so access to all layers I put on under my skirt is relatively easy.1903 Childs first drawers - Edwardian childwearA Penchant for Sewing2022-05-16 | Hello,
I don't have a small child, so I only stitched these little drawers to show you. I have absolutely no idea when you first put drawers on a child. The waist measurement is about 50 centimetres, that might tell something to you. They seem huge.
I think snaps instead of buttons and an elastic waistband could make them wearable today. Of course, if you dress your child historically accurately, you won't mind the seven buttons and eight(!) buttonholes.
I hand stitched these drawers because I am in desperate need of beautiful white lacey underwear. I intend to wear them not as underwear but as an "underlayer" as I am always freezing and have to put on several layers regardless of the season. I found the pattern in an 1893 sewing book. I made them with a yoke, which I drafted from an 1903 book.
I prefer multifunctional garments, so I sewed a petticoat that could be worn as a skirt in summer. Of course, I will need to make another petticoat that goes underneath...
There is about 80 metres / 87 yards of stiching in this petticoat. Fully handsewn.
I had about 4 metres of striped cotton fabric that belonged to a seamstress in the sixties and I had to find a purpose for it. I had also long wanted to make a nightgown with lots and lots of pintucks. It was a challenging project because I usually (or rather: always) give up on pintucks. This time I managed to sew nine, only one fewer than what I had intended to make.
You may remember my Edwardian chemises. I used the same pattern from Making Edwardian Costumes For Women by Suzanne Rowland.
Although I intended it as a nightgown, I think it would make a very pretty apron or summer dress as well.Late Victorianish JacketA Penchant for Sewing2022-03-14 | ...A book lovers review of Victorian pocketsA Penchant for Sewing2022-01-10 | Hello,
When I made my gingham late Victorian walking skirt I included a pocket for the sake of my viewers who like to have pockets. I myself cannot stand them, however, my dislike couldn't stop me from sewing a couple of more pockets. Contemporary sewing instructions are very vague about pockets if they mention them at all. I'm not sure I did what I was supposed to do. I tested whether the pockets were suitable for carrying books around. Books were the only items I could think of to put in a pocket. I wouldn't want anything else close to my body.
I gave the bag pocket another try and made a flat pocket as well. I used Bertha Banner's manual:
This video is not about a success story but about perserverance. I was happy to find instructions for a late Victorian skirt that needed no drafting. It seemed super quick and easy. Well, I managed to turn it into a three week project. It is wearable but I decided it is not going to be the skirt in my late Victorian gingham outfit.
Regardless the mistakes and extra energy I had to put into the making of the skirt, I had great fun reading contemporary sewing books. When I managed to put faces behind the books, these inanimate objects came to life, breathing out history.
I'd like to wear my late Victorian gingham outfit at Christmas, so I need to speed up my sewing. I made a cotton flannel petticoat because it's winter and I need something to keep me warm.
I used a lot of contemporary books during the process, below you can find the links to the ones that are available free on archive.org.
Last week you could see how I set out to make a mockup for a gorgeous 1899 late Victorian great coat. Here's the second part in which you can witness how I mess up a second mockup but finally manage to make the final pattern.
I've been long planning to make a long coat inspired by the late Victorian/early Edwardian eras. However, it must be washable but you shouldn't really wash woollen coats. Wool is the best choice for winter, especially if you've ever worn gloves inside or warmed up your boots with a hair dryer before putting them on, as I have. So, I've put this project on hold but I haven't given up the hope to find some solution to this agonising dilemma. I'm not willing to use any non-natural fabric. I decided to make a mockup until I make up my mind. This video shows the first phase of the process.
Before you purchase the pattern, please read the description by the seller, as this is a one size only pattern made from a 1899 original without instructions. According to the seller the making of the coat requires advanced sewing skills. I think if you have some sewing experience, you can cope with it. If the pattern happens to be your size.A late Victorian outfit project: The blouseA Penchant for Sewing2021-11-02 | Hello,
I've been dreaming of a late Victorian gingham outfit ever since I found a photo of a lady dressed in full gingham many months ago. As the first step towards my dream outfit I made a wearable mockup blouse so that nothing could go wrong with the actual gingham blouse. Well, everything went wrong. However, as a result this is the first project I can recommend to beginners without worrying about what if people follow my recommendation and bitterly regret it later. Despite the numerous mistakes this blouse proved indestructible.
I think my new late Victorian blouse looks cute with this huge bow, which I made from a fabric sample.An Apron for Sewing, Apron No.4A Penchant for Sewing2021-10-19 | Hello,
Have you ever left home with long orange and blue threads sticking to your clothes? Have you ever left thread and fluff on others' sofa? I have. So it was time to stitch an apron which fully covers my skirt. It will help me protect my skirts inspired by late Victorian and Edwardian fashion. I don't have to take it off when I need to try on a blouse but it can be removed in no time in case I need to try on a skirt. Of course, I wanted to feel pretty even when I'm wearing an apron so I made it look like a skirt.
I do apologise for another apron video. I can make other things, too. I really can.I made a detachable collarA Penchant for Sewing2021-10-14 | Hello,
After finishing my last late Victorian blouse I just had enough fabric to make a detachable collar. I like detachable collars a lot. I don't only have them in white but sometimes also use my main fabric to make different styles of collars. These don't need starching. They might feel a bit uncomfortable at first but I get used to them in a couple of minutes. I love collar studs as well. They don't cause any discomfort and some of them are real jewels.Late Victorian Blouse Mock UpA Penchant for Sewing2021-10-11 | Hello there,
I've been long planning a gingham Late Victorian outfit. I ordered the fabric for the blouse ages ago but when it arrived it turned out to be too thick, so I used it to make an apron. Long weeks of looking for a suitable fabric followed. At last I could find a 100 percent cotton fabric that wasn't too thick. And now I'm too scared to cut into it, so I decided to use a cheaper fabric to make a mock up. Of course, as usually, I made it wearable.
I had a lot of this floral cotton, which I used to line the yoke of my Edwardian inspired walking skirt. I didn't really like it but as it took up too much space, I decided to put it to good use and stitch a wearable mockup blouse. I had long wanted to test a Truly Victorian 1894 shirtwaist pattern.
I've piled up some fabrics that aren't really suitable for making Victorian or Edwardian garments. I started making them into aprons. This is the third one so far. I promise my next video will be about something different. But you see, these long full aprons are perfect for protecting my turn of the century inspired clothes. They are also very pretty.
Keeping historically inspired garments clean can sometimes be a bit challenging. You stitch them with lots of love and labour often using miles and miles of expensive fabric. I wear my late Victorian/Edwardian inspired blouses and walking skirts almost all the time, so protecting them from stains is important. I've found a 1904 apron catalogue on the net and I've selected some aprons that I'd like to make.
This one in the video covers my skirt completely offering maximum protection, which will help me reduce the frequency of washing it.
I made an unfortunate fabric purchase again. I couldn't find a purpose for this gingham, but it bothered me a lot, so finally I made up my mind and sewed an apron. At least I can protect my late Victorian / Edwardian inspired outfits when I'm doing housework. I haven't worn them for doing housework but now I can be my true 120 year old self even when cooking or cleaning.
I took a deep breath and made a pocket – just one. I think I'm the only person on YT who can't stand pockets. This time I stitched one for my pocket loving viewers.
I say something silly in the video: "I made half back stitches so I had long stitches on the wrong side, which would make it easy to undo the whole thing." Half back stitches are tinier than backstitches, and I can't tell the difference on the wrong side. What I wanted to say is that I tried to make bigger stitches than usual – about 16 instead of 22. That's why I had bigger stitches on the wrong side.Fixing my Late Victorian and Edwardian BlousesA Penchant for Sewing2021-08-03 | Hello there,
if you're folllowing my channel you might remember the struggle I had with the pleats on my late Victorian blouse and the back gathers of my Edwardian country blouse.
The pleats continued to be a nonsense and I couldn't stand the back gathers any longer, so I fixed them.Another chemiseA Penchant for Sewing2021-07-31 | Hello there,
How do you survive scorching hot summer days? I choose to wear my Edwardian(ish) underthings, which one can never have enough of.Washing my woolen walking skirtsA Penchant for Sewing2021-07-06 | Hello there,
I am disgusted by dirt, so it's impossible for me not to wash my garments. I made two pure wool walking skirts, an 1898 late Victorian walking skirt and an Edwardian inspired walking skirt. I had the gut feeling I shouldn't wash them, but I did. Here's the result.
Please note, this is not a tutorial, but rather an experiment on washing skirts and skirts only!Figuring out how much fabric you needA Penchant for Sewing2021-06-26 | Hello there,
You want to make a garment, you've bought or drafted the pattern, you've chosen the fabric... but haven't bought it yet because you don't know how much fabric you need. You might be on a tight budget or simply don't want to buy fabric unnecessarily or worry about not getting enough fabric. Here's what I sometimes do. For demonstration I used the patterns of my 1908 countriside blouse, my seven-gore 1898 late Victorian walking skirt, and my five-gore Edwardian inspired walking skirt.Starching my petticoatA Penchant for Sewing2021-06-22 | Hello there,
I decided on a hot summer day to play with some hot water and steam, so I starched my Edwardian petticoat the environmentally friendly way. It didn't take long at all to make a solution, only a few minutes. Then I left the petticoat soak for about an hour, but I think ten minutes would have done as well. I did the whole process twice because I was experimenting. I only had potato starch at hand, it worked beautifully I think.
I don't understand why we don't starch things any more. It helps ironing and whitens whites. I will definitely try starching bed linen as well. Starching is fun!Edwardian inspired walking skirt part 2A Penchant for Sewing2021-06-15 | Hello there,
I've finished my Edwardian inspired walking skirt. The fabric is a fabulous pure wool silky-velvety to the touch. I lined it with a lawn type lightweight cotton. The skirt turned out to look a bt too modern to my taste but I think it's really pretty. At last I have a skirt to wear with my embroidered Edwardian petticoat. I hope you'll enjoy the video.Edwardian inspired walking skirt PART 1A Penchant for Sewing2021-06-08 | Hello,
I promised you ages ago that I would make a walking skirt using the pattern of my Edwardian petticoat. Well, it is in the making. I have to take a few days break from sewing so I decided to show you where I got with it. I will post PART 2 soon. Even in its unfinished state I absolutely love it. I hope you'll enjoy the video.Embroidering my Edwardian petticoatA Penchant for Sewing2021-06-01 | Hello there,
if you saw my Edwardian petticoat video months ago and happened to even read the comments, you'll remember that I made two promises. First, I told you I would be making a walking skirt using the same pattern. Then, I promised to embroider the top of the flounce of the petticoat with a double feather stitch. Well, the skirt is in the making so it was time to embroider.Making Edwardian(ish) underwear: ruffled corset coverA Penchant for Sewing2021-05-21 | Hello,
the latest addition to my late Victorian/early Edwardian inspired wardrobe is this ruffled corset cover. I used the Truly Victorian corset cover pattern but I heavily altered it. I'm not going to wear it over a corset. Then why did I make it? Well, for the joy of making it! Actually, I think you can include it in your modern wardrobe as well, I'm sure it would make a perfect summer top if made from a less sheer fabric.Making Edwardian underwear: chemiseA Penchant for Sewing2021-05-11 | Hello there,
I drafted and handstitched an Edwardian chemise. I love white underwear. It's so ethereal that I feel like walking on clouds when wearing it. I used a sheer cotton lawn. It's so light that I sometimes need to check I really have it on. It think it's a really nice addition to my slooowly growing late Victorian / early Edwardian inspired wardrobe.Neckwear: Making a pussycat bow tieA Penchant for Sewing2021-05-01 | Hello there,
I admire Victorian and Edwardian ladies neckwear. I decided to add some to my late Victorian, early Edwardian inspired wardrobe. At first, however, I wanted something more modern, so I made a pussycat bow. I handstitched it but if you use a sewing machine you can make it in no time.Making some Edwardian fashion inspired beltsA Penchant for Sewing2021-04-21 | Hello there,
I have sewn some late Victorian and Edwardian walking skirts and blouses recently. When I saw that my pile of cabbage took more space then the fabrics did I decided to use some of it to make belts which I can wear with my modern clothes as well. The belts were inspired by Edwardian ones.Sewing a 5/8 cape of no particular era to add to my late Victorian/early Edwardian wardrobe.A Penchant for Sewing2021-03-23 | Hello there,
I had a very short length of fabric. I don't know what made me buy it. I had no better idea than to sew a simple cape. It may be a bit too simple, but as it was intended to be an indoor cape worn in home office, it doesn't need to be fancy. Occasionally I might wear it outdoors over my late Victorian / early Edwardian garments.