Beans And Bezels
This latest Zelos Thresher gets plenty of upgrades - Thresher Worldtimer GMT Chalk Grey
updated
There are hand-polished bevels on all edges of the plates and bridges, along with two more interior angles on the finger-style balance bridge, which holds a free-sprung balance that appears to be sourced from Precision Engineering AG, a highly respected supplier of hairsprings to some of the best brands in the industry.
This movement beats at 3.5 Hz, has a 72-hour power reserve, and contains roughly 200 parts, designed and almost entirely manufactured in-house by Armin Strom. Since this watch highlights its ability to deliver stable accuracy via its Equal Force mechanism, I decided to put it on my timegrapher and test it in all six positions at roughly half the power reserve.
The results were exceptional, with overall accuracy averaging around +2 seconds per day and very minimal variation between positions. I’m not often impressed by the accuracy and stability of exotic movements, but this is one of those rare moments. And it must be mentioned that this is a nearly 3 year old watch that has certainly been put through its paces.
#arminstrom #watchreview
#atelierwen #watchreview
Surrounding the dial is a railroad-style minute track printed in white, featuring lume plots at every five-minute increment. The print quality is solid, and while these lume plots are a nice touch, they are completely overshadowed by the large, 3D ceramic lume hour markers. These bold, fully luminescent numerals are exceptionally well-finished, and I’m honestly impressed that Revelot was able to produce such high-quality lume blocks at this price point: this alone makes the Terra a bargain, in my opinion.
The hour and minute hands, finished in matching bronze tones, feature both brushed and polished surfaces and are filled with generous amounts of lume. The attention to detail across the dial is surprisingly high, and when compared to Seiko watches at twice the price, the Terra’s dial finishing and quality control are leagues ahead.
#revelotwatches #watchreview
While the Czapek SXH1 and SXH2 are catalog Chronode SA movements with minor design changes, and the SXH3 similarly comes from Vaucher Manufacture the SXH5 was a custom project. It was designed in collaboration with Adrian Buchmann (Christopher Ward, Sequent, etc.) and engineered by Daniel Martinez, Emmanuel Bouchet, Dann Phimphrachanh, Julian Vallat, and others. These independent watchmakers and designers cumulatively have an extraordinary resume, working on haute horology movements and watches for brands like Greubel Forsey, as well as robust and reliable timekeepers at places like Sellita.
The result of this impressive collaboration is an iconic movement that offers 60 hours of power reserve. It features a Swiss lever escapement, a variable inertia balance, and beats at 4 Hz. The movement consists of approximately 193 components. The bridges and plates are manufactured in-house by Czapek, while the remaining components are sourced from various suppliers. The other bridges feature hand-polished bevels that are easy to overlook due to the dark anthracite finish. The overall architecture is stunning, and I love how everything is laid out.
For a more in depth look at this movement, I highly recommend the three articles by Escapement Magazine UK.
#czapekgeneve #czapekantarctique #independentwatchmaking
At its conception, the Caliber CHR 27-525 PS movement was the world’s thinnest monopusher split-seconds at only 5.25 mm in thickness, and I believe it was also Patek’s first in-house chronograph movement.
Hodinkee and Quill & Pad have informative articles on this watch for anyone looking to learn more about this reference!
#patekphilippe #hautehorology #5950a
The design of the movement feels inspired by pieces like the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force, which reinterprets traditional pocket watch architecture in a modern way. You immediately notice the two large barrels that give the watch its 144-hour power reserve. The barrels feature a striking combination of finishing techniques that look fantastic in person. A large differential gear between them ensures smooth, consistent power delivery from both barrels. All three of these elements are supported by large half-bridges, bolted to the case similarly to those on the dial side. These components are also hand-finished, featuring bold, vivid polished bevels.
On the opposite side of the movement is a large plate finished in an anthracite brushed texture, similar to the raised plate on the dial side, with a slightly metallic quality. The architecture, design, and execution of this movement are outstanding. It evokes many high-end pieces I admire, like the Gravity Equal Force from Armin Strom, Lang & Heyne Georg, and the Breguet Tradition. I’m still amazed that Christopher Ward has delivered something of this style at the price of a Tudor Pelagos.
While the SH21 was COSC-certified, the CW-003 doesn’t carry official certification. The brand notes that the absence of a seconds hand made chronometer testing unfeasible, but they guarantee accuracy within 0 to +7 seconds per day, which I find impressive enough.
#christopherward #watchreview
Surrounding the dial is a brushed stainless steel outer reference track with black circular markers for the hours and minutes. The hour markers are larger dots, while smaller dots represent the minutes. The brand’s name is discreetly positioned at the 6 o’clock mark, maintaining a minimalist approach to branding, which I personally find very appealing.
The rest of the dial is composed of black mother of pearl, featuring a broad swirling guilloche pattern radiating from the center of the moon-phase window just above 6 o’clock. The quality of the CNC engraving is impressive, especially at this price point. While I haven’t encountered guilloche dials on a mother of pearl base before, my experience with other guilloche dial watches has given me an appreciation for the technique. Although CNC machining can achieve near-perfect precision, I believe it still requires acknowledgment for its end result, particularly when the process and its relative value are transparent to the customer.
The interplay between the iridescent mother of pearl and the dynamic guilloche pattern creates a visually stunning effect. If you’re willing to dig into your pockets to pay the premium for this dial option, it offers a truly unique and captivating experience that I highly recommend.
#seltenwatches #watchreview
While the 37.02 is labeled as the Minimalist, I find this Aventurine to be a more distilled version of MING’s essential, sci-fi-inspired design elements. Nothing feels excessive; every detail serves a purpose, resulting in a mesmerizing interplay of shadows, light, and lume set against the cosmic backdrop of the aventurine dial.
The combination of floating lumed numerals, a simple aventurine dial base, and MING’s design language creates a truly captivating, sci-fi-inspired aesthetic. For someone who has always associated MING (albeit perhaps mistakenly) with a futuristic, science-fiction vibe, this watch perfectly embodies that vision.
#mingwatches #watchreview
The Patek Philippe 5230G World Timer is more than just a modern luxury travel watch - it is a chapter in one of the most storied horological and design legacies. The origins of the World Timer at Patek Philippe go back to the 1930s, when the legendary Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier developed a system that could simultaneously display the time across multiple global time zones. His ingenious invention, a rotating city ring paired with a 24-hour ring, was first implemented in a wrist-watch by Patek Philippe in reference 515 HU, with prototypes of this Art Deco inspired rectangular watch being created in 1937, and a reference 96 HU that went into a Calatrava case. That watch laid the groundwork for nearly a century of elegant, mechanically sophisticated world timers that have impressively maintained a cohesive design aesthetic throughout its evolution.
Over the decades, Patek Philippe refined the concept into a signature of their complications lineup. From the beautifully cloisonné enamel dials of mid-century references like the 2523 to the cleaner, more understated pieces of the 21st century like the 5110, the World Timer became synonymous with functional elegance. Although the functionality of it is perhaps more so in a romantic sense these days, given the lack of compatibility with day light savings and countries with offset time zones.
But the 5230G continues the legacy with a modern update introduced in 2016. It replaced the long-running 5130 series, introducing a more contemporary case profile, redesigned hands, and a hand-guilloché dial center. Still powered by the slim 240 HU automatic micro-rotor movement, the 5230G remains mechanically faithful to its predecessors, while introducing subtle aesthetic shifts that give it a cleaner, sharper presence on the wrist.
#patekphilippe #worldtimer #watchreview
You’re most certainly not going to find a single interior angle on a similarly priced watch from any of the ‘Holy Trinity’ brands, unless you’re looking at vintage or neo-vintage pieces. And even the world of independent watchmaking is quickly becoming a crowded market of pretenders and grifters. So my overall conclusion is this: if you enjoy Armin Strom’s design aesthetic, which I understand can be polarizing, these watches are genuinely impressive pieces that truly deliver a superlative effort in both finishing and engineering.
#arminstrom #watchreview #independentwatchmaking
The color, case design, case proportions and bracelet are all an accurate throwback to the past. Timex has been on a roll these past few years, with their design team cranking out winner after winner. It makes me very happy to see Timex gain traction again, and even find their way back into the collections of serious watch collectors!
#timexwatches #watchreview
The all Grade 2 Ti construction is given plenty of thought and detail with generous use of polished bevels and chamfers that begin at the case and extend through the end links to each link of the bracelet and also the clasp. The clasp features a very well considered button operated extension system that can be easily operated while the watch is on your wrist.
And all of this is done at a shockingly reasonable price relative to the current landscape of highly questionable pricing from watch brands in general.
#halioswatches #watchreview
Atelier Wen’s earlier watches, particularly the Porcelain Odyssey and Perception series, often drew criticism for using Chinese-made movements; a topic that became something of a sticking point for many collectors. The Perception’s SL1588 was a massive improvement over the Odyssey, but even then, the reality is that many buyers, especially in the rapidly climbing price range of the Perception series, still hesitate at the idea of a Chinese mechanical movement.
The EPM03, by contrast, is a major leap forward on every front. It’s just 0.3mm thicker than the SL1588 but delivers a substantial 65-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and much tighter regulation. Atelier Wen specifies the movement to run within -4 to +6 seconds per day, adjusted in six positions, with a targeted average deviation of just +/- 2 seconds, a level of chronometric ambition that puts it squarely in competition with more prestigious Swiss offerings.
Their customization of the EPM03 is impressive too – the ratchet wheels and balance bridge are finished in mirror-like black polish, and the 3/4 bridge features an intricately laser-engraved Chinese manuscript containing 446 characters. The rotor is skeletonized tungsten, with a mixed finishing profile and a laser-etched Huiwen motif that subtly ties back to the brand’s design language. It’s not just a nice movement to look at, it’s one that reflects the same dual-cultural story that defines the rest of the watch.
#atelierwenwatches #atelierwenancestra #atelierwenancestrajiao
A blue chapter ring, slightly recessed into but mostly above the movement, features pale blue minute markings that stand out well, making time-reading effortless despite the open-worked design. Further aiding visibility is a recessed lumed ring generously filled with Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 BL C1, which not only enhances nighttime legibility but also features rectangular “cliffs” at each hour marker, a thoughtful upgrade from the C60 Concept that makes orientation easier. At 12 o’clock, a Globolight XP marker, color-matched to the watch’s blue theme, serves as a focal point.
Continuing the blue theme, the handset is strikingly finished, with a combination of brushed top surfaces, polished edges, and large lume-filled plots – all except for the seconds hand, which remains unlumed. But the real star of the show is the architectural execution of the SH21 movement, which appears to take inspiration from the C60 Concept’s skeletonized caliber, but pushes the concept even further. More material has been removed, exposing finer details like the keyless works at 3 o’clock and the Incabloc shock protection at 4 o’clock, features typically hidden in most movements.
My favorite elements of this dial are undoubtedly the four structural bridges at 6, 8, 10, and 12 o’clock. These aren’t just functional components: they add an immense sense of depth, with beautifully sloped surfaces and crisp, hand-polished bevels that gleam under the right lighting. The finishing here is excellent, and I genuinely cannot think of another watch in this price range that reaches this level of execution – unless you’re scouring the pre-owned market for obscure independents or vintage pieces. The exposed twin barrels also provide an interactive element, allowing you to gauge the remaining power reserve just by observing their state of wind.
Overall, this watch is a joy to look at – and an even greater joy to photograph and examine under a loupe. There aren’t many watches in this price category that would inspire you to reach for a loupe, but this one absolutely does, which speaks volumes about just how special it is.
#christopherward #watchreview #twelvex
The front side of the watch clearly and legibly showcases all the wonderful details it has to offer, and I love that I don’t have to flip the watch over to appreciate the exquisite craftsmanship and finishing – unlike most other watches.
The Gravity Equal Force gets its name from its gravity-aided, automatic micro-rotor movement, with a tungsten winding mass located at the top and its Equal Force barrel at the bottom. This barrel uses a stop-work declutch mechanism and a Maltese cross-based design to isolate the most consistent segment of the mainspring’s power curve, ensuring near-linear energy delivery to the escapement.
The sculptural three-finger bridges on the right are a bold, modern homage to vintage pocket watch design… and I love it. The inner angles are proudly on display and make it easy to appreciate Armin Strom’s high level of finishing.
One of the most rewarding aspects of this watch for a watch enthusiast is hunting down the various inner angles. I’ve counted 16 on the top side: 6 on the finger bridges, 6 on the skeletonized gear at the center, and 4 subtle but impeccably executed angles underneath the sapphire dial layer. It is details like these that have made Armin Strom one of the most widely respected independent brands on the market today. They are not holding back in any aspect of their process, and they deliver an incredible amount of watchmaking value.
An additional impressive detail is the hand-turned guilloché executed on the movement platine, done by Comblémine the dial manufacturer owned by independent watchmaking legend Kari Voutilainen From experience, I know that a hand-turned guilloché dial from Comblémine is usually quite a pricey addition to a watch, so this is a very impressive feature.
#arminstrom #watchreview #watchmaker
Note: In the time between writing and recording this review and publishing it, Sartory Billard replaced the case on this watch to rectify the gap between the lugs that you see here. All is good now!
Sartory Billard has made quite a name for themselves over the last five years, and deservedly so, given Armand Billard's extremely charming personality, the degree of customization and personalization he offers with his watches, and his interesting and accessible designs. This is another watch that was loaned to me by my purple-loving friend @watchsymmetry, and seeing his two Sartory Billard watches was the first time I got to spend time with pieces from this brand. I'm very glad I finally had the opportunity to do so.
This particular piece was designed in collaboration with another purple watch fanatic, Amr Sindi, better known as The Horophile. So, it shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone when one purple watch fanatic creates a timepiece that ends up in the hands of another. This is the SB04 Horophile Final Edition, which is Sartory Billard’s way of concluding this series and making way for the next iteration, called the SB04-E. The Horophile and Sartory Billard have a long history of collaboration, with pieces created even before Sartory Billard achieved the level of fame he enjoys today.
#sartorybillard #thehorophile #watchreview
You can find my reviews of the entire Selten lineup on my website, or check out @SwissWatchGang’s excellent interview with Leonardo Tsai and Kristine!
#seltenwatches #watchreview
A few months ago, my Instagram page finally crossed 10k followers, and a friend of mine congratulated me on the achievement. I joked that with 10k followers, I should expect to hear from Rolex or Patek Philippe about reviewing some of their watches. Not long after, I received a message from a brand that is arguably more recognizable, more well-loved, and more important to the watch world than either of those. Timex reached out and asked if they could send me one of their recently released Q Timex 1982 Ana-Digi watches. That was it. Nothing requested in return, not even an Instagram post or a review.
Of course, I said yes. I’d be an idiot not to. Timex has been such a key part of my watch journey, and I know many others who feel the same way. Sure, they don’t make the most horologically impressive timepieces, nor do they have the kind of legacy or heirloom status that Rolex and Patek Philippe have, but they’re one of the few brands adored by nearly every watch enthusiast and watch-adjacent person I know. As someone who enjoys bringing new people into the hobby, I’m deeply grateful to brands like Timex, Casio, and Seiko that shaped my early experiences and made watches a meaningful part of my life. I’m sure many of you feel the same, especially if you’re around my age or older.
That nostalgia is likely why Timex’s vintage reissues do so well. They bring back memories of watches we might have owned, seen on others’ wrists, or once desired. I feel that way about the Q Timex 1982 Reissue. It reminds me of watches I saw on the wrists of adults when I was a kid. While I didn’t grow up coveting a bright gold watch, I love the familiarity of the design and the brand. I like to say that while we all dreamed of owning a Rolex or Patek, a Timex was the loyal companion that never left your wrist, even if you wished it would.
This watch retails for $189 USD and comes with a gold-colored mesh-style bracelet. It’s a faithful recreation of the Ana-Digi watches from the 80s and early 90s. You can still find some originals on eBay for reasonable prices, but this reissue makes a strong case for skipping the hassle of vintage repairs and buying new instead.
Q Timex® 1982 Ana-Digi Reissue 33mm Stainless Steel Bracelet Watch Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/q-timex-1982-ana-digi-reissue
#timexwatches #watchreview
Instead of a metallized blue sapphire dial, the Uni gets a mirror polished black sapphire dial that looks even blacker than Vantablack in certain angles, and then looks like a mirror in others. So while it may appear to be “just another black dial”, it is very dynamic given the multi layer construction and generous use of sapphire and shadows. The dive timer etched into the dial also has a different design with slightly more legible 20 minute markings in orange, and a new design for the rest of the 20 minute segments that are all filled with lume.
When compared to the Uni, the 18.01 tends to look a bit more simple and straightforward, even though it has a lot of the same design materials and characteristics like a metal base layer, with a sapphire layer that contains HyCeram lumed markers, and so on.
Both the 37 and 18 Series divers generously deliver an impressive dynamic visual experience, with dials and crystals that invert their colors based on lighting and perspective, resulting in many different personalities throughout the day. The 37 series is perhaps more suited to this task given its large sapphire dial layer and the sapphire crystal with its hour markers fused to its bottom surface. The inversion coupled with the shadows makes for an incredibly dynamic experience that is an absolute pleasure to photograph.
The 18 Series used a more traditional hand set – with a metal frame and large hollow lume plots that were generously filled with lume. Even the seconds hand had a traditional lolipop style lumed element filled with lume. On the other hand, the 37 Series goes with a metal base layer and a pad printing style process applies layers of lume on the hands, allowing for more irregular shapes like on the minute hand. For the seconds hand, the 37 series gets a more plainly painted lume application that is unfortunately not very potent.
But the overall design of the Uni is very cool, with interesting use of materials, layering, colors and finishing techniques. The 18 Series tends to look a lot ‘simpler’ in comparison, but I don’t think the 18 lacks in any way either. I like the physicality of some of the dial hardware on the 18.01 like the raised sapphire track that contains the HyCeram floating markers, and the generously lumed hands that are deeply and precisely filled.
#mingwatches #watchreview
#atelierwen #atelierwenancestra #watchreview
@arminstrom is a brand that has lived a few lives already. The first began under the namesake watchmaker, who started with a watch repair and retail store and later became an industry expert in the skeletonization of watches. You can even find Omega Speedmaster watches that were made in collaboration with Armin Strom, which I found to be a very unusual yet impressive combination of styles.
The next chapter began when watch enthusiast Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler took over the brand name and revived it as a modern watch company, with nearly the entire watchmaking process carried out in their fully integrated manufacture in Biel, a very impressive accomplishment in itself. This era of Armin Strom saw some polarizing designs, including ones that I will openly admit to finding rather unattractive. But in a way, I believe this was a necessary step, as it allowed them to refine their engineering and finishing capabilities, ultimately positioning them for their third and current life as a beloved independent watchmaker. Today, they produce some of the most technically impressive pieces in their market segment, delivering exemplary finishing that is respected by even the most seasoned collectors.
As the brand has matured, their designs have evolved to become much more approachable, while still staying true to their original design tenets: prominently displaying open-worked mechanics and fully embracing the skeletonized aesthetic, albeit in a more modern and slightly restrained manner compared to the skeletonized watches of the original watchmaker, Armin Strom.
This is the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, a watch I’ve been in love with since first handling one about three years ago at the Armin Strom booth at WatchTime. I was fortunate to meet Claude Greisler at the booth, who personally explained in impressive detail the engineering that made this watch possible. Since then, I’ve handled a few other watches from Armin Strom, and I’ve always walked away impressed. So I’m pleased to finally be able to share this particular watch here. I should note that this is a pre-owned piece, over two years old, and it hasn’t been treated like a safe queen, there are some scratches on the crystal and a few dislodged particles visible, which I would comfortably attribute to the original owner, not the brand. This watch currently has a retail price of $32,000 USD.
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: beansandbezels.com/reviews/armin-strom-gravity-equal-force-ultimate-sapphire
#arminstrom #watchreview #independentwatchmaking
At this point, I probably don’t need to introduce Atelier Wen to most of you because if you’ve been following artisanal and micro-indie watchmaking over the past few years, you’ve almost certainly come across the brand. I’ve been a fan ever since I stumbled upon their work over five years ago, and I’ve had the chance to review and own several of their pieces: from the elegant Porcelain Odyssey Ji (which I reviewed early on) to the Hao edition I later purchased, and more recently, the Perception Piao and the titanium Millésime Mù, two very impressive lines of watches with excellent variants.
The new Ancestra 蛟 (Jiao) feels like the long-awaited spiritual successor to the Porcelain Odyssey series... only this time, Atelier Wen is swinging for the fences. Priced at $5,850 USD, the Ancestra is a bold leap forward in terms of materials, design, and finishing. I only had this watch in hand for about 36 hours, and I was admittedly late to the party, so by the time you're reading this, the order window may already be closed. It’s available for pre-order directly from Atelier Wen with a 30% deposit, with deliveries expected between late Q2 and Q3 2026. If you're in the U.S., Collective Horology is also offering the watch at $6,200 USD, which could end up being the better deal once you factor in import duties.
Atelier Wen Ancestra Watch Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/atelier-wen-ancestra-jiao
#atelierwen #watchreview
Note: I referred to the "Co." in WatchHo & Co. as Company, but it actually stands in for "Community".
If you’ve been following my reviews for a while, you might recall my deep dives into @seltenwatch's Series 00 Meteorite, Salvage Bronze, M1 Moonphase, and Grand Feu Enamel models. Selten, a relatively new microbrand out of Hong Kong, was founded by Leonardo Tsai, who comes from a family of watch dial manufacturers. That pedigree shows in the brand’s focus on elaborate dial work, from genuine meteorite slices to hand-patinated bronze and even guilloché mother-of-pearl. Selten hit the ground running with its 2021 debut on Kickstarter: the Series 00 attracted around 750 backers and roughly $275,000 in pledges, and the follow-up Salvage diver pulled in another $80,000 from about 175 backers. These successful campaigns demonstrated Selten’s ability to navigate crowdfunding and deliver on its promises, and having reviewed four different series of their watches over the past few years, they've definitely earned my confidence and made me a fan.
Today, Selten’s latest project takes a slightly different path: it’s a collaboration with Hong Kong’s watch enthusiast club Watch Ho & Co. (WH&Co). For those unfamiliar, WH&Co is a collectors’ community co-founded by Jackie Ho about two years ago with a “good vibes only” group ethos. In just its first year, the club curated over 50 get-togethers connecting passionate collectors with watch brands and industry insiders, and its inaugural anniversary event drew over 130 aficionados from across Asia and even beyond. This inclusive, globe-spanning spirit has quickly made Watch Ho & Co. a notable hub in the watch community. The club hasn’t shied away from creative projects either – it previously teamed up with independent brand Zentier on two limited-edition watches, including a green malachite-dial jump hour and a follow-up featuring a striking lapis lazuli dial. In fact, Jackie Ho himself has been particularly excited about working with Selten on this special anniversary club watch, hinting at this collaboration in the months leading up to today.
All that brings us to the watch at hand: the Selten × Watch Ho & Co. “Jui” This piece commemorates WH&Co’s 2nd anniversary, and as of today (August 13) it’s available to pre-order for just 72 hours, priced at $1,099 USD. While limited-edition collabs like this can sometimes stir up a frenzy of FOMO, I’m approaching the Jui with confident optimism. Selten’s proven track record of delivering ambitious designs on schedule give me more confidence than usual in recommending this project.
Selten x WatchHo & Co "Jui" Order Page: seltenwatch.com/products/jui-cnc-guilloche-tahitian-black-mop
Selten x WatchHo & Co "Jui" Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/selten-x-watchho-co-jui
WatchHo & Co: instagram.com/watchhoandco
#seltenwatches #watchreview
#rolexyachtmaster #christopherward #grandseiko
Selten Watches: seltenwatch.com
Watch Ho & Co: instagram.com/watchhoandco
#seltenwatches #watchreview
The dial is extremely impressive, especially when you consider the price of this watch. At every step of reviewing it, I was left genuinely impressed by what the brand has managed to deliver for $550. It is shocking how expensive other brands have become lately, and it is admirable that Zelos has managed to keep their prices down for as long as they have.
Unlike the anniversary edition, this Helmsman features a beautifully executed bracelet with well-articulated end links and excellent finishing and attention to detail. The end link fitment is solid, and the bracelet tapers from 20mm at the lugs to about 18mm at the clasp. The clasp includes a nifty, externally operated button adjustment system that has been refined since the last iteration to ensure the button does not get pressed accidentally, even though that has never really happened to me with any watch using this clasp style.
The build quality is terrific, the finishing is great, the design is solid, and there’s exciting use of materials, as you would expect from any Zelos. And the price is exceptional. There isn’t a single Seiko or established brand currently making a watch even half as nice as this for the same price.
#zeloswatches #watchreview
It is hard to talk about the world of accessible enamel dial watches without mentioning Anordain. They are perhaps one of the earliest brands to operate within the micro-brand landscape and successfully deliver a truly artisanal product. It should come as no surprise that they are always sold out, with build slots typically booked many years in advance. But Anordain is not the only brand capable of bringing together artists to create beautiful works of enamel art; there are a few others in this space as well, one of which is Vitreum.
They have been working on their products for several years now. I remember first hearing about this project at least three or four years ago during a conversation with the founder, Kasper Reisner. This Danish watch brand has a similar story to Anordain but offers a dial that is arguably more involved, requiring hand-carved dial base layers upon which multiple layers of enamel are skillfully applied.
Vitreum has a Rare Handcrafts catalog that features more complex designs and dial configurations, priced around 5,000 USD. This particular watch, the FH01 Arctic Blue, is from their Core Collection, which includes slightly less intricate base layers along with a standard set of colors and textures. These watches were originally announced at around 2,250 USD and are currently priced at 2,750 USD. Unfortunately, all Core Collection pieces are now sold out, but the Rare Handcrafts models are still available to order. You can also reach out to Kasper to stay updated on future releases.
Vitreum FH01 Arctic Blue Grand Feu Enamel Watch Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/vitreum-fh01-arctic-blue
#vitreumwatches #grandfeuenamel #watchreview
Yet, for all its technical elegance, actually acquiring one is another story. Despite being in regular production, availability is staggeringly low, and AP boutiques are known for gatekeeping allocations. Many clients report being pushed to purchase several Code 11.59 models, AP’s less successful line, before even being considered for a Royal Oak.
Worse still, customer service at Audemars Piguet Houses and boutiques often falls flat, with numerous accounts of dismissive attitudes, opaque processes, and a general lack of support unless you’re a top-tier VIP. The Royal Oak Extra-Thin may be a masterpiece, but the path to owning one is certainly fraught with frustration.
#audemarspiguet #royaloak
The latest Halios Seaforth IV in titanium with a white dial is a familiar but refined update to the Seaforth lineup, many of which I’ve previously owned and thoroughly enjoyed. While not a groundbreaking release, this latest version brings welcome upgrades; most notably the addition of a matching titanium bracelet and subtle improvements in case finishing. The build quality feels incrementally tighter too, with sharper transitions and a more cohesive overall aesthetic.
I ordered this watch (priced at $965 USD) exactly one year ago, and after a long wait typical of Halios releases it finally arrived a while ago. While the core formula of the Seaforth remains largely unchanged, the upgraded execution and timeless white dial give it fresh appeal and also subtly throwback to an older Seaforth GMT variant that I unsuccessfully hunted for years.
Halios Seaforth IV Titanium Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/halios-seaforth-iv-titanium-gen-2
#halioswatches #watchreview
Overall, I think this is a great addition to the AW family and adds a whole new dimension to their catalog. The price tag is a bit steep and the wait is long, but there’s no doubt that they’re going to be very successful with this series.
#atelierwenwatches #atelierwen #atelierwenancestra
The 37.02 Ghost is a limited run of 300 pieces and was launched in April of this year, priced at $4,150 USD if you bought it from their authorized dealer in the US, Collective Horology. After owning a few 37 Series watches in the past, I had decided to avoid this design family and wait for something different… but when I saw this piece, I couldn’t help myself. The all-titanium aesthetic was something I could not resist, and I had to have one. So I’ve had this watch on my wrist for almost two months at the time of this review, and I’m very pleased with my decision.
#mingwatches #ming3702 #watchreview
Why the added complexity? A free-sprung balance is more stable, more accurate, and less sensitive to shocks than a typical Etachron setup. I applaud Christopher Ward for making this investment. I own watches that cost 2–3x more with standard regulators – like in the Schwarz Etienne micro-rotor movement of my MING 20.11 Mosaic. Unfortunately, you’ll still find Etachron regulators in watches from brands like Piaget, Berneron, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Bovet, and others.
Beneath this upper architecture, you get a glimpse of the escapement and escape wheel, which seem to appear almost out of nowhere… ready to bring the watch to life. I appreciate that it’s not immediately obvious how the escapement connects to the rest of the movement, which adds to the sense of mystery and perceived mechanical complexity.
#christopherward #watchreview
The power reserve indicator is well-executed, with a thermally blued hand showing the remaining 80 hours. The free-sprung balance and bridge are on full display, showcasing Grand Seiko’s approach to the Dual Impulse Escapement. This movement easily helps justify the $11,000 price tag, offering technical and visual sophistication that surpasses a lot of more expensive watches and movements.
Overall, Grand Seiko seems to have nailed it with the 9SA4. The hand-wound design encourages user interaction, and the movement is presented in a package that aligns perfectly with the brand’s design ethos. It’s also housed in a case that complements its dimensions. I timed the watch during my hands-on, and it ran comfortably within the stated accuracy range.
Thanks to Watch Symmetry for letting me experience this watch! #grandseikoslgw005 #grandseiko9sa4 #slgw005
The landscape for accessible watches with handmade and artisanal dials is becoming very competitive. Brands like Oan Gio, Vitreum, Selten, Atelier Wen (@atelierwen ), and others are releasing watches that make traditionally expensive dial styles and materials available at prices that are far easier on the wallet. This makes it a wonderful time to be a collector or watch enthusiast, because we benefit when brands push the envelope to be more creative and deliver products with unique and impressive characteristics.
In that regard, I have a lot of hope for Selten. I’ve been a longtime supporter of the brand because I believe they have all the right ingredients to achieve escape velocity and become a more mainstream name with a much broader market. They just need to keep pushing the boundaries of design, materials, quality, and finishing as they’ve already begun to do. As they continue to develop their own unique voice, they’ll be hard to beat.
#seltenwatches #grandfeuenamel #watchreview
I measured the case to be approximately 40.4mm in diameter, 47mm in length excluding the strap, and 13.6mm in overall thickness. This is quite close to my Twelve X Special Edition, which measures 41mm in diameter, 45.8mm in case length, and 12.7mm in thickness. Like the Twelve X, the case is made entirely of stainless steel.
#christopherward #watchreview
#mingwatches #ming3702 #ming3702minimalist
Winding this movement feels unlike any other watch I’ve handled: it is incredibly tactile, with a winding action that feels more like the crank of a high-end machine than a typical wristwatch. I’ve been told that Ondřej reworked the entire keyless works to achieve this effect.
There is a traditional Etachron-style regulator on a balance cock that features beautifully executed hand-polished bevels. These bevels continue through the escape wheel bridge and extend all the way to the 3/4 plate. Ondřej even included five well-executed interior angles in addition to the broad beveling. The teeth on the ratchet wheel also appear to be hand-polished. Truly impressive work here, especially at this price point.
I believe a great deal of effort went into this movement, even though it uses a relatively simple architecture based on mostly off-the-shelf components. However, it has been sufficiently reworked in both design and finishing to serve as a perfect complement to the case and dial.
#ondrejberkus #hodinkyberkus #watchreview
Farer is one of those micro-indie brands I’ve kept an eye on for years, but didn't really have an opportunity to spend time with one or review one. Known for their vibrant use of color, quirky British flair, and just the right touch of vintage-modern hybrid design, Farer has carved out a niche as the go-to brand for folks who want their watches to look fun, fresh, and unmistakably Farer. Their catalog has long been a technicolor dream, often mixing unexpected hues with beautifully detailed dials, and for a brand that seems to embrace joy in design, the Lissom Forrest might be one of their most quietly confident releases to date.
It’s also the first Farer I’ve actually spent real time with on-wrist, thanks to a loaner prototype piece kindly sent over for review - and I’ve got James Mulvale and Mike Razak to thank for making that happen. The prototype does have a few stray dust particles visible on the dial, but that’s forgivable given the pre-production nature of the piece. The Lissom Forrest is priced at $1,295 USD, and after wearing it for a few weeks, I’m starting to understand what all the fuss has been about.
Farer Lissom Forrest Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/farer-lissom
#farerwatches #watchreview
This particular piece was designed in collaboration with another purple watch fanatic, Amr Sindi, better known as The Horophile. So, it shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone when one purple watch fanatic creates a timepiece that ends up in the hands of another. This is the SB04 Horophile Final Edition, which is Sartory Billard’s way of concluding this series and making way for the next iteration, called the SB04-E. The Horophile and Sartory Billard have a long history of collaboration, with pieces created even before Sartory Billard achieved the level of fame he enjoys today.
This watch was priced at €3,300 (roughly $3,750 USD) and was made in a batch of only 20 pieces, which sold out very quickly. This is #1 of the 20 pieces sold.
#sartorybillard #thehorophile #watchreview
Thanks to watchdibz (instagram.com/watchdibz) for letting me shoot these 🙏🏽
Review:
I recently had the opportunity to photograph and review the GPHG 2024 award winning MING 37.09 Bluefin dive watch, and my review of that watch has already been published. Fortunately, a friend of mine also purchased the 37.09 Uni when it was launched, and I have the privilege of being able to photograph and review one of these watches too. So a shout out to my friend @watchdibz for sending me this piece to check out. The 37.09 Uni is a stealthy yet quirky take on the 37.09 dive watch platform, with an all DLC case, a black dial that has the same mirror like characteristics of the Bluefin and orange accents on the hand and rotating dial inspired by the similarly colored Sea Urchin ‘Uni’.
The 37.09 Uni is part of their annually refreshed collection, with 150 pieces made for 2025 but more units to be released in 2026. This watch has a retail price of 5250 CHF, that is roughly $6450 USD at the time of writing. But since MING now has an authorized retailer in the US, it is perhaps a bit cheaper if purchased from Collective Horology, who already have an excellent reputation among independent watch collectors.
Since the Uni and the Bluefin are nearly identical in many aspects, I thought it would be a better use of this review to discuss how the 37.09 platform differ from the previous generation of MING dive watches, the 18.01 h41. But I will of course dive into the details of this specific watch wherever relevant.
#mingwatches #watchreview
I particularly like WatchSymmetry's choice of meteorite and circular brushed and blued titanium for this dial. And those hands 😍
Seen here on a @delugs.official CTS rubber strap!
#sartorybillard #watchreview
I’ve had this watch in my collection for over six months now, but I’ve been going back and forth on whether to actually do a review of it or not. For many reasons, it seems pointless. Each time I post this watch on Instagram, I get at least a dozen comments that read what I have to say and simply reply, “But what’s the point? It’s not like I can get one even if I wanted to.” And sure, that can be said about a lot of watches in this hobby, especially those that exist in niche categories where production numbers are drastically lower than demand, either naturally or artificially. So I kept asking myself if this was even worth the time and effort. I finally decided to do it anyway, mostly because I make these videos for myself. I enjoy the photography side of things, and I like sharing my thoughts on watches, even if nobody is listening. And to be honest, a lot of the time nobody is listening, so why should I care now?
But there is a nugget of truth in those comments. As I spend more time in this hobby, particularly with higher-end pieces, I realize that a large portion of the collector community is drawn more to the exclusivity of these watches than to the watches themselves. And sure, I love a rare watch as much as the next person, and I’m entirely grateful to have a sales associate who made this watch a reality for me. But I do wish the brand wasn’t so heavily clouded by the baggage of unavailability. It makes it slightly harder to fully enjoy a watch that is constantly viewed as a monetary asset or a symbol of status.
But if you take a step back and try to view this watch for what it is without all the baggage - it is a wristwatch. A titanium wristwatch. A very good titanium wristwatch, perhaps one of the best in its class. But that’s about all it is. Beyond a certain level of execution, there is nothing mystical or supernatural about this piece. It is not the result of a master watchmaker toiling away in his workshop for hours, pouring blood, sweat, and tears into something artisanal like a Philippe Dufour or Akrivia. This is a water-resistant titanium watch, designed by experts and crafted by a combination of robots and humans. And as time goes on, and as Rolex introduces more titanium watches to their lineup, the hype around this model will certainly fade and hopefully this one will be a watch that tool watch enthusiasts can easily enjoy, because that is who this watch was made for.
This is the reference 226627, or the Yachtmaster Titanium 42, and it has a retail price of $15,250 at the time of writing this review. I’ve wanted this watch ever since I saw one in person. It was the first new Rolex release to evoke a strong reaction from me in a very long time, and it’s one of those watches I knew I had to have as soon as I saw it. But I should again mention that the only reason I have this watch is because of a very kind sales associate who made this possible.
Now, let’s get into the details…
#rolexyachtmaster #rolexwatch #watchreview
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Review: beansandbezels.com/reviews/czapek-antarctique-titanium-dark-sector
I've handled quite a few Czapek Antarctiques over the last few years, but this is the first time I’ve been able to spend some quality time with one. This is the Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector, generously loaned to me by my friend WatchSymmetry. It is one of the brand's more recent releases and, I believe, their first titanium Antarctique. This watch has a retail price of roughly $38,500 USD, and at the time of this review, the brand requires a deposit of approximately $15,000 USD, with delivery promised in about one year.
The first thing that stood out to me during the release of this watch was the fact that it is now roughly $12500 USD more expensive than its steel variants. Sure the dials are different too, but the difference in price seems entirely excessive to me, particularly when you can get excellent titanium watches on bracelet that cost just a little more than the difference. Price aside, I’ve typically had mixed feelings about the Antarctique lineup in general, and getting to spend extended time with one has only reinforced those feelings.
Let’s get into it..
#czapek #watchreview #czapekantarctique
#grandseiko #grandseikoslgw003 #watchreview
You can read my full review here: beansandbezels.com/reviews/christopher-ward-trident-c60-lumiere
#christopherwardwatches #watchreview
At this point, I'm not going to bother introducing the 37 Series family of watches from MING, since I've already reviewed at least half a dozen of them here, and you've more than likely encountered one of these watches already if you're even remotely interested in the brand. This watch, however, is a pretty refreshing take on that family of designs and gives the 37 style a complete titanium makeover. The 37.02 Ghost indicates that it belongs to the same sub-family as the 37.02 Minimalist I reviewed a while ago, but even as a self-proclaimed MING fanboy, I couldn't tell you why these two watches are 37.02s while the Aventurine and Sand are labeled 37.08s instead. Maybe it has something to do with the movements? I'll have to wait for the next MING book to help me better understand that.
The 37.02 Ghost is a limited run of 300 pieces and was launched in April of this year, priced at $4,150 USD if you bought it from their authorized dealer in the US, Collective Horology. After owning a few 37 Series watches in the past, I had decided to avoid this design family and wait for something different... but when I saw this piece, I couldn't help myself. The all-titanium aesthetic was something I could not resist, and I had to have one. So I've had this watch on my wrist for almost two months at the time of this review, and I'm very pleased with my decision.
#mingwatches #ming3702ghost #titaniumwatch
Designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the AgenGraphe from Agenhor SA was built from the ground up, unlike many high-end chronograph movements today that are largely refinements of classic architectures from Lemania, Valjoux, and others. This movement successfully modernizes the chronograph while addressing many of the drawbacks of traditional designs. One of its defining features is its central chronograph display, where the elapsed time hands for minutes and seconds are positioned concentrically on the dial -allowing for immediate, intuitive legibility without the clutter of multiple subdials. While other brands like Sinn, Damasko, and Habring have attempted central chronographs based on Valjoux or ETA movements (often inspired by the Lemania 5100), the AgenGraphe does it in a way that feels truly innovative.
At its core, it uses a column wheel for precise function control but replaces conventional clutch systems with the AgenClutch, a lateral friction clutch with no teeth, ensuring ultra-smooth engagement with no start-up jitter or amplitude drop. The jumping minutes mechanism, driven by snail cams, eliminates any ambiguity in reading elapsed time and ensures constant torque for smooth operation – something many older chronographs struggle with. Additionally, instead of the abrupt, hammer-driven reset found in traditional chronographs, the AgenGraphe employs a brake-release reset, where a spring gently rewinds the chronograph hands back to zero, preventing the jarring snap-back that can stress components over time.
The movement architecture itself is also unconventional: rather than the traditional layered chronograph layout, it features an annular main movement with a hollow center, where the chronograph mechanism is stacked – a design that usually includes a dial-side rotor, though @HorologerMING opted for a manually wound variant for the 20.01 S3 you see here.
You can read more about this movement in articles by Ian Skellern at Quill & Pad and Jack Forster at The 1916 Company, and also technical documents from Faberge, Singer and H. Moser & Cie who also use this movement.
#mingwatches #chronographwatch #agenhor
Some more footage of the incredible caliber that powers the Sartory Billard CT12 'Cronotempvs' Tourbillon watch. This particular piece was designed for my friend WatchSymmetry.
What I love most about this movement are the massive sapphire plates that have beautifully finished edges as if it were made of metal. The movement was designed in collaboration with Comblemine and was finished by Philippe Narbel and his team of highly skilled artisans.
#sartorybillard #tourbillon #watchreview
I spent three weeks with a prototype of the incredible C12 Loco from @chriswardlondon. Before getting the watch in hand, I asked myself, “An in-house movement with a free-sprung dial-side balance, 144 hours of power reserve, good accuracy (+/- 7spd), a good amount of hand finishing and a fantastic movement architecture… for the price of a Tudor? What’s the catch?”. And after photographing it, I still haven’t entirely processed what Christopher Ward has done here. Sure, I found areas where this watch falls short of the kind of “haute horology” finishing and detail you’d expect from an Armin Strom or MB&F (watches that the Loco has been compared to for design & concept), but the fact that I’m even comparing a $5k watch with watches 6-15x its price seems silly, but that’s where we are now because there isn’t really a watch in its own price category to compare it to. It may not have the Bel Canto’s “wow” effect on most watch people. But if given a fair chance, even if you don’t like the watch, the Loco should change what you expect from the watch industry in general.
I know I sound like I’m a Christopher Ward fanboy. That’s likely because I am 😐🫡


