Uncle Bobs RC
***Tamiya Clod Buster Gray Edition Overview***
updated
This is a Thunder Tech Racing Ripper Pro chassis
Dual Castle Creations Copperhead ESC's
Dual Castle Creations 4600kv brushless motors
STOCK GEARING Robinson Racing steel 13 tooth pinion gears, open diffs
Gartpot 7.4 volt, 2S lipo pack
Pro-Line PowerStroke dual rate shocks (dampers) #PRO606300 and most likely filled with Losi 20wt or 25wt oil... (2 sets used)
JConcepts Tribute wheels with JConcepts Golden Years tires
HPI Grave Robber body set (HPI Racing 7167 Grave Robber Clear Body T-Maxx / E-Maxx / Savage X 4.6 / Flux)
***At first I had the shocks listed as Team Associated, that's wrong, they are PROLINE Shocks***
@PetersRc1346
I said something in this video about needing to do some paint work on my Blitzer Beetle, well guess whatm I couldn't open my jars of Tamiya paint, I asked Jen if she could and dammit, she did.. I said to her, I'm going to start wearing your bras.... It was a good laugh.....
Also, I stated this is my last RC Kit till next November (unless Tamiya re-re's the TXT-1 or Juggernaut truck(s) or something else pops up I want)...
But I never said anything about not buying parts and I seen The AOG's vid this morning and there are 2 BMW bodies I want....
To all I sent cards to last year or the year before, sorry, I didn't get any out as this snuck up way too fast..... so, with that said,
HAPPY HOLIDAYS to One & All !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*** Photo is courtesy of "SoundCloud" ***
It IS NOT mine and I have no rights to it.
As I talked with my Son David, born in 1988, he said those photos are from 1996 (he thinks), that would put him at 8 years old in those photos..
Why is my voice cracking??? WTH!!!
My son's Blitzer Beetle with the neon body was sporting a Trinity Midnight Motor & a Novak Super Rooster (you can see them if you zoom in).
I know who has my Son's old Bltzer Beetle and I did say something about getting them both together to see if things have changed (dude, I'd trade you this NIB Gray Clod for the my Son's old T3, & Kyosho Ultima 2 with all parts I gave you and the straight Clod grill), and I say that because, as I built this kit, even with Fast Eddy bearings, there is SOO much slop in the rear axles to hub bearings as well as in the front wheel bearings to axles. Has Tamiya molds got wore out after 30 years or are the bearings OD smaller and the ID bigger????
Will higher end bearings fit better without falling out (loose fitting) and have less slop???? Anyone else wonder why the breaing fitment sucks in some Tamiya kit???
Anyway, It was either this or the Konghead and I got this (Konghead I will get at some point).
Here's what was playing while I did this reveal....
@MarkBryanRC
youtu.be/2cNVujGabPE?si=hrdacSGpk_6Y8MpL
Dung Beetle photo from EarthDate*
The Chevy S-10 was a short run due to a lost lower shock (damper) screw.
It was running on a 2S Gartpot lipo and sporting a vintage Trinity Speedworks BluePrint series 427 motor.
The Kyosho Ultima is stock and runs on a Tekin R1 brushless esc & Redline 3200kv brushless motor.
The Tamiya Holiday Buggy is rocking full bearings, Tamiya TD2 damper set & a Tamiya Super Stock BZ motor. also on a Gartpot 2S lipo...
The Tamiya TT-02BR (Bush Pig) is all stock but I did use Tamiya Dual Block tires on Tamiya Dark Impact wheels (off my TD4), this buggy is fueled by a 2S lipo and spins a Tamiya Super Stock TZ motor.
The Tamiya Super Astute is stock (300Mah Nimh pack) and rocks a vintage Trinity Paradox Pro 27 turn, rebuilable stock motor and zapped by a vintage LRP Ai automatic Pro Reverse esc.
All run on a HoobyWing 1060 unless otherwise stated.
Now I tried to add music through the editing program and it cut each segment to @ 4 seconds, that wasn't going to work, 5 edits later, we got this, no sound.
RIP CK......
Should I do this with some of the truck I have????
Now most likely my fault cause I didn't read everything I should have (yeah, I really should read everything)...
I didn't know Ebay (Evilbay) changed their policy for "Make an Offer", something they did around the first of the year.. Live & Learn
So, I had to tell Jennifer that I made an error that cost me over $130 buck (tax & shipping) so thats @ $67 bucks each, not a bad price at all, I just wasn't expecting to buy.
So, with this and Haydad RC 's mishap, links below, who else did this??
@HaydadRC
youtu.be/lUHLam8HZWc?si=bWHZdyNFmGjRjQyR
If You Did Something Like This, I Wanna Hear About It Via a Video.
Lets hear your story, You All Been Tagged!!!!!
THIS IS HOW I DO IT... Use of how I do this at YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!
I did not post pics about magnetic gauss, sorry.
This is just how I was taught to set up mod motors for a Clod (or other dual motor trucks that use a reverse rotational motor)
People have asked if you zero the timing, can I swap motor leads then? I guess you can, like on a stock Clod motor were you plug the rear yellow wire (positive) into the Neg side (blue wire) of the esc.
To me, its un-natural, pos is pos and neg is neg.. And when using an old school esc like a Tekin (Tea-Kin) Titan or Novak Super Rooster, we just run red to pos & black to neg. smarter & safer in my eyes.
The body is not fully painted but almost done..
I use full bearings & Robison Racing 13 steel pinions.
For James. @yodadarksideGreenHawksRC
Go check him/them out... Sub the channel
Well, that's it I think..
Any questions, feel free to ask.
Got a comment, say it... Good or bad..
Got another way or tip(s), tell us...
Thanks Guys.... See you on the next video
I'm just not use to buggies or how they handle.... I do know if a kit "Donkey Kicks" like this one is doing, softer rear shocks are needed or stiffer front shocks are needed, I went with softer rears (25wt oil "250 CST"), I don't have springs for this kit and I didn't want to change the rear pistons (maybe at some point). "Rant Over".....
Item# 47381
Rc Super Astute 2018
Ltd Edition
Description
This is a Limited-Edition Re-Release of the Super Astute 2WD off-road buggy. The original radio control kit was released back in 1991. The basic construction and design of the model remains true to the original, with various minor upgrades. Super fun off-road driving awaits with this high-performance 2WD buggy’s rugged chassis, durable suspension and TTC (Tamiya Traction Control system).
• 1/10 scale 2WD R/C model assembly kit.
• 2.5mm thickness FRP chassis gives a low center of gravity for excellent balance.
• The battery pack position has been slightly enlarged. Note: This kit is not compatible with square-shaped battery packs. Rounded profile battery packs must be used.
• 4-wheel double wishbone suspension employs CVA oil dampers.
• Sealed gearbox features TTC, which was Tamiya's first slipper clutch and protects gears from impacts and gives stable drive by limiting wheelspin. Externally the same as on the original, it features a modernized internal design and can be adjusted simply by removing the gearbox cover and turning the lock nut.
• Efficient 0.5 module gear included.
• A low-profile servo is required for this model.
• High-traction front rib-spike and rear square spike tires provide superb response and impressive cornering.
• Comes with a durable and lightweight polycarbonate body and rear wing, plus a protective under cowl. **** Info from TamiyaUSA web site*****
Brushed motor temps should never get to 180 or higher (F)
The temps my motors got to are well within my comfort zone (as I stated in other videos) but wasn't till I did this edit I rememered things.
The runs in the grass and lack of gearing options did & will make gear run hot if its wrong.
I'm almost sure my battery pack got way hotter than normal (again, grass adds strain, strain builds heat)..
The Trinity stock motor I used is the "Monster Stock Jr. Part 3" and is a NORRCA approved stock motor (@ 1992).
The 12 turn motor I tried was an Old Trinity "Speedworks Retro Series Pure Gold" motor (this is one of many motors with the Pure Gold name).
All in all, I really like this buggy, it was a great build but that wing stay, IT SUCKS!!!!!!! The wing don't stay at all....
Thanks again to everyone and all who watch & comment.....
I had to stop the video because I was having either ESC issues or my Radio was having a shit-fit (I doubt it)... Near the end of the video, the buggy would still go forward even with my finger off the throttle (it kept running for nearly 2 seconds), Maybe a receiver issue, time will tell...
The fresh air intake pipe was made from an antenna pipe, bent with heat and it just sits in place (not glued or screwed in).
Its all stock, build as you would from the manual, to the tee..
The esc is a Tamiya TBLE-04S, its the only esc I have that would fit. All my old school ESC's are too big and/or too tall to fit.
Now, for the monkey in the house, the paint work: It's a 10 foot paint job all day long. The inner wheel wells (inner fenders), I painted the black "vent" with a very old brush because it was a brush I could toss out when I was done (one of my Daughters old brushes), I the reason wht I chose that was because I am out of thinner (I tried cleaning Tamiya Acrylic paint with water like the jars say "cleans up with water" Bullshit, Sure, it cleans but not all the way, so its a sloopy paint job...
The Battery I am using I bought to use in my Black Edetion Clod and that is a Zeee 3600 mAh NiMH pack (Amazon). Its been many years the last time I bought a NiMH battery pack, and last I knew, the larger the capacity, the bigger the pack, and heavier they get, 3600 is big enough for what I do with them. Plus, I know it should fit in just about everything I have if need be.
I know a said you dont need a 35kg servo (or 486 oz/in of torque), but thats whats in the buggy, with it turned down to @ 30% both left & right via the transmitter. I had plans the use a 12kg low profile servo but low pro servos dont really fit or work well in this chassis (at least the one I have didn't).
Sorry about the piss poor audio....
OK, I'm done, Thanks for the eyes and do leave a comment or ask anything about this video, I'll do my best to answer.....
So, I ordered this kit Friday August 1st, Monday August the 4th, the wife was walking out the door and says, "There's a big box out here", SWEET I said!!
I have told a few about the kit but Addam of Addams Playground said the Math hurts his head (He's seen the invoice)... LOL
@AddamsPlayground
As I said, I have Mark Playing on the boobtube as he builds this very kit of his own. A great build series of the kit and an awesome dude.. go check his channel out, give him a sub and some like too!!!
@MarkBryanRC
Oh, don't forget about Addams channel @AddamsPlayground
I will say this is a fast and great build, but I would do step 21 before step 19. Build and install the rear upper links in step 21 before attaching the bukhead in step 19, If you wait to do those links in step 21, the right rear link is very hard to get to (Spur gear gives very little room), I almost ruined a ball end and if I didn't look, I could have damaged the spur gear..
Just my 2 cents..
Thanks Everyone and if you get this kit, Low prolile servo is needed and uses .05 module gears.
I'm not a Tamiya FANBOY but I do like a lot of kits from the company (and cheaper than most too).
My first thought is;
Don't over grease the gears/gear boxes
Use a full size servo but it DOES NOT need to be a monster torque servo.
If you are going to drive the buggy, buy extra parts for it NOW...
Take your time with the bellows for the steering rack, it's a 3 hand job and use the AW grease as it says.. In fact, I use the AW grease to hold loose fitting bearings and parts together (motor shims, the plastic parts on the gear boxes & so on).....
Put the cluster in the cockpit BEFORE the driver, makes lining it up much easier....
If you are going to run your buggy, use thicker shock oil (the Lost 35wt oil I used is @ 420 cst, the Tamiya 400 cst).
Don't use old paint like I did.. Use fresh paint, This paint almost killed this whole build, in fact, it's a 10 foot paint job as it is.....
I cut out the side stickers, held the right side inside the body on the left and marked the paint lines, did the opposite for the right side..
@TamiyaTalkRC
@AddamsPlayground
Both have tips on the build, Chris at Tamiya Talk RC did a build series and was very helpful with lots of great tips..
Check them both out and Sub them both...
If I missed something, let me know (I'm sure I did)..
Any questions, just ask..
leave any kind of comment (I have thick skin and I'm no Snowflake)
Thanks for Watching!!!!
(No, I did not get ripped off or scammed)
Ok, I had this Bigwig Jr (as well as others) for @ 30 years, from moving a few times, being in storage, and kids, and moving again... Parts got lost and the tires have split (all the Jr buggy's I have the tires are split).
This is the Tamiya Bigwig "2017" kit that was rere'd in 2025. Kit #47330.
thw 47*** denotes a "Limited" kit, just like the Gray Edition Clod Buster, LOL.
The first time I seen the Bigwig, I thought, what a f@$king ugly buggy, and like Chris (TamiyaTalkRC), as I near 60, these funky, ugly and weird kits I kind of like now, so when the chance for me to grab this buggy for @ $165 bucks shipped, I HAD TO DO IT!!!!!!!
This being my first Bigwig, what do you think the color should be, should I go box art for such a kit or put my own color down out of curiosity???
Foe more tips and build tricks, see these channels below.
@TamiyaTalkRC
@AddamsPlayground
Thanks for Watching my Friends!!!!
Chris, it might be Monday when you see this but it's still Sunday here (7/6/2025 or 6/7/2025 at @ 10:20am how ever you wanna read this).
@TamiyaTalkRC
Plus a look at a dumb thing I did & some plans....
I agree M8, when the buggy came out, I hated it, as I near 60 years old however, I'm liking those funky buggies...
Well Everyone, Have a Good Day, Good Night, Good Week, Good Month, Good Year and most of all, Have A Good Life!!!!!
As I said, there is so much about brushed motors and I'm at the end of what I know..
There are things like armature size (not all arms fit in all cans), commutator size, stack size, stack style, can thickness, magnet material, flat wire, round wire gauge, brush material, cut brushes, timed brushes, brush springs (I did cover a little of this in some videos) & polarized springs.
I'm not going down the rabbit hole about motor & endbell differences. There was so many different motor manufacturers & tuners that relabeled motors...
I told James (Yoda Darkside, GreenHawksRC) about a tip I found probably 30 years ago about using a Tamiya 4-way wrench (the tool that comes with all Tamiya kits) to set bearings in motors, it's covered in this video, most look solid looking into it but I found its just flashing from being molded and it's easy to pop a drill bit or even a 3mm hex driver through it.
A few channels listed below is the reason why I made this video
So, go give the channels a look, sub them and please do watch some vids and like those too...
James @GreenHawksRC
Chris @TamiyaTalkRC
Addam @AddamsPlayground
If you have questions, ask, If you wanna chime in, leave a comment, If you know of other not mentioned, do tell...
Thanks for Watching
Of brushed motor stuff that is...
I forgot to put in an "Intro card & outro card" SORRY
Kevin came over to try his hand at truing a comm, he did a great job so I put him to work on another comm to true. Great job man & thanks for the parts...
Go check out his channel
@madmustangrc21
Safety glasses should be worn when doing work like this.......
This is a lost part of the RC hobby and to the guys that like brushless RTR stuff that you just rather plug & play, a word of caution if you try brushed motor kits or you acquire one, brushed motors are not like brushless motors. Brushed motors need care and maintenance, they don't like long run times (keep them at @ 13 mins or less per run), they hate heat over 130 drgrees F (54.4 C). They need to cool down between runs.....
There is so much more to brushed motors, again, like tuning springs, adjusting timing, brush compound, timed brushes, bushings vs bearings vs ceramic bearings, windings (turns), & single, double, triple, quad is how many strands of wire wrapped around the stacks. Example: a 12x3 (3x12) would be a 12 turn motor with thinner wire wrapped around the stacks 3 times... So many variances, so many motor makers, Top, Epic, Yokomo, Kyosho, AYK, Tamiya, Not sure who made/makes the LRP motors and others I cant remember...
Round wire
Flat wire
2 magnets
4 magnets
If you have any questions, ask away.. Please do leave a comment, good or bad....
Anyway... Thanks for Watching..
Thanks Tamiya Talk R/C (Chris) for putting this idea in my head...
I forgot the camera was on when I went to dyno the "control" motor and the card filled up, after resetting every thing, I plain forgot to record it (@ the same PRM as the other 3 Torque Tuned motors.
As for the water test, yeah, 10 mins, on 4.5 volts, was way too long...
Now you crawler guys, who run brushed motors, and go into water every now and then, keep an eye on your brushes, and always clean out your motor after the run and re-lube the bushings/bearings.
I have used the water method in the past (very early 90's) and that was done maybe 2 or 3 times till I heard of the low voltage way. Anyway, It's not a method I use or would even recommend using.... Sure, at 4 volts for 3 mins maybe would work, I don't trust it either way.
In closing, Thanks for watching...
Tamiya Torque Tuned Motor #54358
THIS IS A LONG ONE, Sorry.....
Ok, so I broke a "fiber" washer, it happens..
This was to be a short video but I got caught up in what I was doing (Zoning)
It seemed like 20 mins to me... As I was kind of rushing and there is so much more "tuning" that can be done with "serviceable" brushed motors.
The next video will be with the comm lathe and maybe more tuning of a motor (just so it can sit in a box). MadMustang RC should be here as he wanted to use the lathe..
I'll go over other thing simple things I missed in this video like Stand Up & Lay Down brushes...
I know I forgot a lot of thing in this video so if it's something you want or need to know, ask, I will do my best to answer.
Don't forget to check the
@theoagrc
@TamiyaTalkRC
@madmustangrc214
**** I AM NOT an electric motor expert, RC or otherwise...
Just things I picked & learned in over 30 years running RC kits.
From running a motor longer than specified & continuously, After burning out one motor (back in 1988 or 1989), I started taking better care of them..
Use of the way I do things is at your OWN risk ****
These are my ways and thoughts ONLY
The water break-in method:
Although I'm not a fan of this way, and like most I think water & electricity don't mix but think about this...
Does your fuel pump in your fuel injected vehicles sit in the tank of fuel??
Yes, yes it does, and guess what, it's basically an electric motor....
Brushed motor maintenance is basically a thing of the past, few guys still maintain them and use them.
Check and clean your brushed motor and/or change your motor brushes after 3 to 5 runs (depending on the places you run on). Dusty and dirty areas need more attention whereas on road not as much (racing on carpet is like dust & dirt).
Yes, I put the armature in the lathe and trued it after seeing the nicks I put in the commutator, all good now and this is another story...
With brushless being all the rage and the ease of maintenance (virtually none) and the laziness of most people under 40 (yup, I said it) who just want plug & play... Some basher type guys too but a few will maintain their RC vehicles & electrics.
Go see Chris (& Zack) at:
@TamiyaTalkRC
Chris, anything you wanna know just ask, I'll do my best to help in anyway.
So, I'll clue you all in, so, out front, on the road, on 2S, stock gearing, this thing only hit 21 MPH..
So I got it in my head to put in my 3S pack.... Bad Move Dude!!!!!
Running full tilt, over the crest, the truck hit some wind shear (we all know what that it is, LOL), right into my neighbors basketball hoop thing, the truck hit the base of the stand..
Well, this is what happened....
Definitely NOT a new body anymore...But it's still evil looking and maybe a bit more sinister!!!!
I'm running an Zeee Lipo 2S pack (5200 Mah, 50c) that's just a bit puffy, No complaints about the packs, they been through hell & back, they owe me nothing!!
Care to guess the speed of this thing? I have no clue, I did not put my speed meter on it but I will at some point also I will try it with a 3S pack.
Most brushless race Clods I seen run only 2S packs and 5700kv motors (some do more, some do less). Maybe I should try a pair of 5700kv motors too......
Keep in mind, this is all stock gearing....
I did manage to damage (poet and didn't know it) the body, so work to do on that, As you'll see or did see.
Well, that's it folks, It's done, what do you think of the body & color???...
Kev man, where do we race these beats???? I like some of the Trigger Kings set ups @TriggerKingRC .
So, as I said, I have Rob playing in the background so go check out his channel, he's been in a few speed runs and Him & Mark @MarkBryanRC come up with some crazy stuff, gotta love them..
Rob Brennan RC @robbrennanrc .
PEACE!!!!!!!
Warning to sensitive people & Snowflakes
Some F Bombs dropped, some S words tossed in, a GD here or there and a middle finger or two!!!!!!!!!!!!!
****** Thumbnail photo owned by HPI ******
Photo taken of the HPI home page...
Ok so here I am, back on this truck again..
I been working on this truck for a while now and so far, this is where I'm at with it...
Ok folks, the body I wanted, I don't want that bad to shell out @ $100 bucks, so, I got this one... I'm not ruling out the body I really want and I'm not saying what that is till I have one in hand and painted they way I see it being, SORRY.
I got a 35kg Injora servo off Amazon (temporary servo) connected to a UKM carbon plate servo mount that came with links (They need to updated hardware, at least the 2 counter sunk screws, they should be a minimum of 30mm) and I think the link off the servo horn might be a few millimeters too long, more on that later).
UKMonsters Tamiya Clodbuster/Clod Carbon Servo Plate with Linkage, steering kit.
That's how its listed, I did not see a part number.
HPI-Racing Graver Robber body #7167
Help me choose a color for this body please!!!!
This is a Thunder Tech Racing: Ripper Pro chassis kit
Thunder Tech Racing CNC Torsion Sway Bar Kit
Thunder Tech Racing Aggressor Steering System
Proline Racing PowerStroke shocks (6063-00) for short course trucks (Pro-2 SC, Pro-2 Buggy, Pro-MT, Slash & Slash 4x4 fronts). Filled with Losi 20wt oil.
As always, I always run
Robison Racing Steel pinions (stock tooth count, 13 teeth)
JConcepts Tribute Wheels & Gold-Year tires
@PeteWylieRC
If you like bashing and brushless power, and crazy sick jumps, go look at Pete's channel.. Give him a sub & like the videos you watch.. Great Stuff.
And as ALWAYS, Thanks to the normal guys that put up with my shit, Mark, Rob & Kevin!!!!!!
This is a long one so I'll keep the text to a minimum...
First up, Tamiya TRF Shocks #:42354
Info off Tamiya website.
Rc Trf Big Bore Dampers+
Description
This is a tuned-up version of the popular TRF419 chassis kit design shock dampers from Item 42287, now partnered by the recent reinforced V parts from Item 54871. Fit them for excellent grip on your touring car model.
• This set contains parts for four dampers, including HL (High Lubrication) cylinders, titanium-coated shafts and high-performance silicone O-rings (transparent).
• Damper cylinder diameter is 0.5mm wider than standard dampers, allowing 10% more oil.
• Aluminum spring retainers get the most out of your springs.
• Aluminum parts have blue anodized finish.
• The V plastic parts were completely overhauled when released as Item 54871, and offer a wide range of setup options. The new designs and material also boost durability and squeeze even more performance out of your shock dampers.
• Compatible with Tamiya touring cars.
These dampers may be used on the following Tamiya chassis platforms.
F104PRO II chassis
F104W chassis
F104 chassis
F103GT chassis
FF-04 EVO chassis
FF-03 chassis
FF-03 PRO chassis
M-08 CONCEPT chassis
M-07 CONCEPT chassis
TA07 MS chassis
TA07 PRO chassis
TA06 MS chassis
TA06 chassis
TA06 PRO chassis
TB-05 PRO chassis
TB-04 chassis
TB-04 PRO chassis
TB-03 chassis
TB-03 VDS chassis
TC-01 chassis
TRF420 chassis
TRF419XR chassis
TRF419 chassis
TRF103 chassis
TRF102 chassis
TRF101 chassis
TT-02RR chassis
TT-02D chassis
TT-02 TYPE-SR chassis
TT-02 TYPE-S chassis
TT-02 chassis
TT-01D TYPE-E chassis
TT-01 TYPE-E chassis
Cylinder Bore: @ 10.37 mm
MSRP: $99.00
Yeah Racing Big Bore Shocks: #BBG-0055BU
Big Bore Go! Purchase this set of big bore shocks, add oil and off you go! Includes two different types of mounting pillow ball studs for different types of cars! Included are different springs for you to fine tune your ride so you don't have to go looking for different springs after purchasing our set of shocks! If you really want to get serious with tuning, there are different holes of pistons included so you can adjust the how the shock reacts to the shock oil.
Feature:
Material: Aluminum
Color : Blue
Include:
Aluminum Big Bore Go Dampers (4 pcs)
Soft Springs - Red (4 pcs)
Medium Springs - Yellow (4 pcs)
Hard Springs - Blue (4 pcs)
Pillow Balls (8 pcs)
M3 x 5.5mm Ballstuds (8 pcs)
M3 x 5.5mm Threaded Ballstuds (8 pcs)
Pistons (8 pcs)
Prices are between $22 to $40 depending on where you shop and where you live.
Cylinder Bore: @ 11.27 mm
******* Thumb nail photo is from a Google search for "coil over shocks"...
It is not my photo *******
This damn thing, every time I tried to edit a slow motion clip, either the software or my laptop would kick me out of the program, it did this about 10 times but I got it, don't know how but I did... Now it's in the wrong spot... F it!!
We had light fresh snow yesterday, while from the day I recorded this, then some light freezing rain, that's why the title says "snow"....
The truck is sporting the stock kit motors with 18 tooth steel pinions (down from the factory 19 tooth pinions).
Clod Buster Wheels & Tires (the reason for dropping a tooth on the pinions.
Plus it has a full set of rubber sealed bearings.
HobbyWing 880 ESC
Zeee 11.1volt, 3S lipo pack.
Run ended shorter than I wanted it to because something smelled hot....
I haven't looked into this issue yet but my money (when the wife gives me some) is on that cheap ass Amazon servo (red 35kg) in the rear (wouldn't be the first one I burned out with this truck and it smells the same)..
It was good to get out for a "snow" even though I don't like running in the elements, maybe next time, I'll take the time to set the RX to the truck and set the 4WS the right way....
Thank You all for Watching!!!
Paul of REIT Place, congrats man!!!!!
Thank You all for taking part in this...
and for the guys I could not include, I am sorry but don't give up, maybe something will come along when I get to a 1,000 subs...
Congrats again Paul, and email me, the info is in the "ABOUT" tab.
Well I got some 3D printed parts for my TXT-2 project build...
A very kind viewer offered to print them for me and I cant thank him enough, he has a relatively new channel so go check out his wild builds & custom work he does.. Sometimes I would say very brave work he does as I wouldn't have the balls to do it..
@galkawarriorive
so give the man a Sub.. like his videos...
Sorry brother, I broke off the ends on the front bumper just by rotating the truck in my hands...
Love the Juggy trucks man, I wish I still had mine...
Just a reminder, Any comments after Feb 1st WILL NOT count for my Kit Re-homing...
Thank You all for watching and all of the support over the past few years...
@galkawarrior Thanks again dude!!!!!!
I have not really got into this unit yet but all I really care about is; will it run my lathe & dyno.... Short answer, YES.
Rob Brennan RC
@robbrennanrc
DC Power Supply Variable, 30V 10A Bench Power Supply with Encoder Coarse & Fine Adjustments Knob, Adjustable Switching Regulated lab Power Supply with 5V 3.6A USB & Type-C Quick-Charge
Product Dimensions : 3.5 x 5.6 x 7.4 inches; 2.65 Pounds
Brand: HANGELL
$59.98
Yup, made in china (sorry guys).
Now I had a power supply years ago, and that was this;
1277 SHE 14A Power Supply Type2 w/ Cooling Fan E2055 By Integy, and it was pretty basic and used to power my old Duratrax Ice charger (it was dc only).
As I said, I only care if it can run my "Tech" stuff, it does and also charges my phone, my Go Pros, it will run motors for break-ins (brushed motors), you get the idea.. It's pretty small, about half the size of a 10th scale touring car.
Well, that's it for this one...
Any and all questions & comments are welcome and I will do my best to answer them.. Thanks Everyone for taking a look.
***(I do not work for Amazon, I am NOT affiliated with either company)***
***** Word of Caution... I dropped the F Bomb in this video *****
This is my OG Tamiya Blackfoot kit #58058 I got back in 1988 or 1989.
I do have the grill, tailgate & "glass" for the body some place (I hope), at least I did maybe a year or so ago...
This is not a stock truck, all the gears in the gearbox are Thorp, outdrives, dog bones & wheel axles are Thorp, and the clamp on rear wheel hubs are Thorp... That said, I did run this truck maybe 30 years ago with this set up so I did have ALL the Thorp parts to run it, I have no clue how it ended up with the parts it has now as I bought the dogbone style because I hated the hex style dogbones (they never lasted long when you use a 7 cell hump pack, F/R ESC and a Trinity Blueprint 427 motor (started with a Kyosho 240ST but that burned out in about 15 to 20 runs and I hated those cheap Kyosho 240ST motors ever since.. Now, they sell for big bucks and they are not that fast, they came out in 1988, they are a 22x1 motor & spun to about 24,000 RPM, they are a 4 minute motor only (I ran it till the battery went flat, every time). Those old Le Mans motors with numbers like 240, 360, 480 is a reference to run time in seconds.
Front end parts are CRP parts, I think, its been a long time, if you know what I'm talking about, give me a shout out.
Nerf bars....... No clue where or when I got those.... I don't even know who made them...
With this I come to a close..
**** DON'T FORGET ABOUT MY KIT RE-HOMING VIDEO ****
My friend Kevin
@madmustangrc214
Go check out his channel!!!!!!!
Thank You for watching and taking a trip down memory lane at least back to the mid 90's with me (such a better time in my life for sure)...
I welcome any and all comments and/or questions, so type away!!!!
Thank You All!!!!!
******* THE RULES *******
You Must Be a Subscriber.....
You must comment the correct phrase (words in video)....
You must be Human......
You must be alive.....
You must have an active YouTube Channel.....
My Family IS NOT eligible, sorry....
Will not ship to P.O. boxes, Sorry....
***** 500+ SUBS *****
THANK YOU!!!!!!
**********************************************************************
I will be doing a video drawing or whatever it is on Feb 1st.... or should I do it live Saturday the 4th at Noon my time (east coast USA)? You's tell me....
I never did a live thing and not sure if I know how..... I have time to practice, is it like doing a video call????
Craig @theoagrc go check him out, sub & like his vids...
I don't know what else I need to do or say, I'm sure I'm missing something...
RC Agrios 4X4 Monster Truck
Txt-2
Discontinued
**** Photo of the TXT-2 Agrios is from Tamiya USA website ****
Although this kit has been discontinued (2021 I think), I still think if they (Tamiya) had used Clod wheels & tires or better yet, the TXT-1 wheels (txt-1 & clod tires are the same), this kit would have been a better seller, at the very least, Tamiya would have sold a ton of TXT-1 wheels..
*** Another note on wheels and wheel hubs ***
You can't just use Clod stub axles and just put on Clod wheels, you will also need the Clod drive hub/wheel hub or use of after market wheels like these from Pro-Line Racing or wheels from JConcepts that use the drive hex instead of the drive hub......
This is something been playing with for a couple of years now...
I forgot to mention, I have Sport Tuned motors in this "race" TXT-2 with 19 tooth pinions (steel of course).. and full bearings, that should be a given, most all Tamiya kits need bearings, be it a stock kit or a "racer" but some kits do come with them.
I would very much like to see the difference between this truck and my other TXT-2 (my completed TXT-2 is not stock, it has bearings and steel pinions of the same tooth count as stock). I been also playing with the idea of going brushless in this "race" build, just a single motor...
@MarkBryanRC
So, that's it for this one...
***** PLEASE NOTE: The Straight Clod Grill IS NOT, repeat, IS NOT, part of the things I have for trade!!!!!!!! ******
It was put in to show others that Tamiya could have, should have used that grill in the Super Clod Buster kits over the 4X4X4 grill............
Do you agree???
Thanks for Watching, Happy Holidays & see you on the next video.
This is kind of a short video as I don't know much about this truck (below is a list of the truck in thumb nail). This should be the same for all the Vaterra Ascender trucks.... **Wheelbase may differ due to body used and specs**
Yup, I figured it out Kev...
@madmustangrc214
So, I'll be on the hunt for parts this winter (I do like the flat bed look) I also like the 40's Dodge Power Wagon body....
So many kits, so little funds.....
In closing, here are the specs I found on this truck
Type: 4wd "Scale" Rock Crawler
Scale: 1/10
Length: 18.1" (460mm)
Width: 9" (229mm)
Height: 9" (229mm)
Ground Clearance: 1.06" (37mm) at Differentials
Wheelbase: 11.40" (290mm)
Weight: 4lbs
Chassis: Steel Ladder Frame
Suspension: Multi-Link Solid Axle
Drivetrain: 4WD
Tire Type: Licensed Super Swamper TSL SX
Motor or Engine: Brushed
Speed Control: Y
Radio: Spektrum DX2E 2-Channel
Servos: Y
Batteries: NiMH
Gear Pitch: 48-pitch
Wheel Size: (D) 1.9" (W) 1.1" 27mm
Kit/RTR: Ready-to-Run
Shock Type: Oil Filled Threaded injection molded
Body: 1972 Chevrolet K10 Pickup Painted
Ball Bearings: Complete Vehicle
Experience Level: Beginner
Recommended Environment: Indoor/Outdoor
RTR
Thanks for Watching/Reading
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays & have a Happy New Year!!!!
This is part 1 of the RC's I have on the back burner waiting to have a new lease on life... So, if you have about 25 mins to waist, this just might take you back a few years...
For a 1/18th scale truck of it's time (@ 2007), this thing was trick.
Double wishbone suspension, over sized oil shocks, Multi layer chassis design, center gear box with differential with front & rear diffs, dual motors with slipper, FM radio with push button 6 ch select, full ball bearing, dual steering servos...... And so much more...
I ran and beat the snot out of this little truck the put in a crazy brushless motor on a stock chassis & suspension. This little truck took it all and begged for more (things did break but hell... anything would what this thing went through). At first, the ring gears and pinions would strip, ok fine, upgrade the diffs, all good, add more power, buy more upgraded diffs (I went through about 4 or 5 sets of viscous diffs), at about @ $60 bucks a set, it adds up fast...
So around 2011 or 2014, I decided to upgrade and rebuild this truck, all kinds of bling and go fast stuff... Then, I get pulled from working due to health reasons so funds for play things went "bye bye" for a few years...
In short, I will be doing 4 to 6 of these plus a very special video soon...
@rcicons4915
Any questions, just ask.. Please do leave a comment, good or bad...
I used parts from:
Team Losi
Castle Creations
MIP
Hot Racing
Team Integy
Still need to get servos for this thing .... Who would like to see this thing run again????
Sorry if this gets a bit long, it was done over a few days and I kept adding to it, you'll notice that in the video.
Guest voice overs by RC SoandSo & James (Yodadarkside) @ Green Hawks RC.
here are those links, check them out, like & Sub them..
@RCsoandso
@greenhawksrc6806
So, I was all over the place in this video.... My head is still spinning by how much I was running around.
I'm probably forgetting a lot of things here, but who want to read all this anyway??? Let's get to the video...
Thanks Again Babe (my wife Jennifer) for the kit...
Thanks to all my Subs and if your not, you need to be.
Thanks for Watching.
First, My apologies for the lack of comments but I'll explain that in this video.
I say Birthday's for a reason, I celebrate a Birthday on Nov. 10th & again about a week later... I'm gonna be late 50's something....
I have to thank my beautiful, loving wife, Jennifer, for the opportunity to get this kit... I have owned every Clod Buster kit now, all but one.... The Chrome Edition Clod Buster (Super Clod Buster). I had Gen 1's, 2nd Gens = no Bow Tie grill or Chevrolet badging, Super Clod Busters, 2 Gray Edition Clods and now the Black Edition..... Bobby is a happy boy!!!!!!
This will be a runner, a light runner and now I have a goal to do a tandem run of every Clod I own in a video (most every one), something you guys wanna see? Let me know...
Again my friends, I'm sorry for the lack of commenting... Dealing with life and I don't have a solid grip just yet, But working on it...
**** KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR A VERY COOL VIDEO COMING SOON ****
When I get to 500 subs......
Thank You all......
Some I can't think enough.......
Any and all comment & questions are welcome so please, feel free to say something or anything...
Semper Fi
Second, pay no attention to out poor shed, was like that when we bought the place.
Now, Just a fast run in chilly 51 degrees F (10.5 C) temps...
I'm running Gartpot 2S 4000MaH 50c lipo pack, full ball bearings (also for most all Tamiya kits) and Robinson Racing Steel 13 tooth pinions (I recommend steel pinions in any Clod build, BullHead trucks too, as well for most Tamiya kits).
Most know the set-up I run in this truck, if not,
here is the motor video link..
youtu.be/vCdbCLNRv4U?si=wAlkB4qNOxjly9tm
Here is a link to my overview of the build...
youtu.be/6AAJFULunT4?si=CZhVLCcOvnVhpDnT
Again, just a quick run and it was fun... I need to do this more often.
Guys, I forgot to add a Slow-Mo roll over, sorry...
Editing and PC stuff IS NOT my thing.....
The servo is a...
TrackStar TS-D99X
Sold by HobbyKing
From the HobbyKing site
**** If you're looking for the ultimate steering servo for your 1/10th touring, drift car or buggy, we have just the thing!
The TrackStar TS-D99X is a standard size low profile digital servo featuring a titianium geartrain, coreless motor and a fast 0.08sec transit time. Add to that it's excellent performance and tricked out looks, and you have one outstanding steering servo for the price! ****
Specs:
Weight: 45g
Size: 40mmx20mmx25.5mm
Torque: 7.8kg.cm (4.8V)~9.3kg.cm (6.0V)
Speed: 0.09 sec/60deg (4.8V)~0.08 sec/60deg (6.0V)
Voltage: 4.8V~6.0V
Type: Digital Standard
Gear Train: Titanium
Motor: Coreless
Ball Bearing: Dual BB
Servo teeth: 25T
Lead Length: 285mm
Plug: JR/Futaba
@ $ 25.00 USD.
So far, I'm very happy with it's performance..
It took a few 4 to 5 foot tall jumps in the Super Avante TD4..
It had no trouble holding the tires where I pointed them, and held up to the crazy TD4 speed run(s)...
All in all, Now I know where I can get them (great for light weight buggies), I will be getting a few more....
"I have a GD plan" @ Val... Lets see if anyone gets this....
If anyone uses or used this servo, please chime in, what's your thoughts on it???
@MarkBryanRC
Thanks guys for being there when no one else was to help me, a stranger, from @ 3,000 miles away, I asked a question and the both of you went way above the call.... Thank You!!!!
Jen and I did plan on flying over this past spring/early summer but "LIFE", as always, gets in the way..
The kit: Tamiya TT02BR #587170
I painted the body about a year ago... Just now getting around to record it
The wiggly eyes are from Amazon.... Just a bulk pack of assorted sizes.
JX Servo PDI-4409MG 9.2kg
High-performance standard digital servo High-precision metal gear High-quality brushed motor Dual ball bearing
SPECIFICATIONS:
Working frequence: 1520μs / 330hz
Motor: high quality core motor
Operating Speed (4.8V):0.13 sec/60°
Operating Speed (6V): 0.11 sec/60°
Stall Torque (4.8V):7.8 kg.cm
Stall Torque (6V):9.2 kg.cm
Dimensions:40.5X20.3X28mm
Weight:44.5 g
Connector Wire Length: 265 mm
Bearing: 2BB
Tooth Count: 25
I'm not going into detail here about the gear, as it's not hard to do a Hobby Shop/Online Retailer, Google or Amazon search for such things..
I really didn't hurt this buggy and time (last time was the TT-02), but as some of you know what I say, Speed is fun, BUT it costs Money!!!!!
The more money you toss at something (engine or motor powered), the faster it usually goes, then you'll find a weak point, repeat as needed.....
What's next for a speed run challenge, the Tamiya ORV chassis and must use Blackfoot size wheels & tires and stock gears????
********Something Special to announce when I hit 500 Subs*******
That's only 33 away...... I think... LOL
Well, Congrats to the winners and I know what I would have done if I won.. Donate to someone just starting in the hoppy or really down on their luck... Spread the joy and the fun....
So, a while ago, I was talking to a Facebook friend and he said he wanted to send me this buggy... I was floored by his gesture... I was shocked... I was (am) very happy, so happy that I told a few people about it BEFORE I know not to say whom he is, SO, for those that know, Please don't say any names...
Some of you might remember or recognize this buggy as it's been shown before... Again, if you know, please don't say it...
Now, this buggy is very cool and the shocks, WOW, the shocks are next level..
It is a used buggy and has seen it's share of fun, as I said, it's been very well enjoyed.
Now after seeing Keith of RC Icons, @rcicons4915 run his RB5, I can't wait to get this buggy track ready (winter project)..
I put in photos of the green wheels, what do you guys think??? Maybe some white one too, can mix them up with different tires as well.... Those, with the Kyosho 480T brushless motor (also green; and blue, it comes with green & blue parts), keeping with the color theme of the body...
This buggy needs a few things so with Autumn right around the corner, winter is a good time to get parts.
Now, for the stupid sh!t I did.... So, I lost not one BUT two of the rear steel sus. bush (as Kyosho calls them) #LAW39 in my kitchen, heard them hit the floor, bounce, maybe onto the carpet(s) and I seen the one go toward the new dishwasher (still in the box, well the box bottom is cut off), I'll be damned if I can find either one. Even my wife Jen came out to help me look... NOTHING!!! The Damn floor ate them (no heater vents in that area at all)...
Thanks for watching and let me know if you know what body this is and my thoughts on "keeping it green"..
Have a good day, good week, good month, good year & good life!!
I worked out the steering issue, so now it turns in both directions, equally I might add.
I do think the motor is tired, with this short run, though be it in short grass, it gets a bit too warm too fast (2S lipo really not the reason why as it the same voltage as a Nicad would have been when this kit came out).
I do have a set of new gears in a new gear case with new bearings in this buggy..... Addam from @AddamsPlayground sent me a set of 3 new shocks, Thanks Man, but as you know, my plan has changed...
I was planning on giving this buggy away, as I mentioned before, but after working on it, It needs SO MUCH more work, that I could not, in good conscience, give it to anyone who may or would really run the buggy, It would be cheaper to get a new "Novafox".... JH.
Well, it runs, I need to get it to the track, run it in dirt, maybe a 1 on 1 with the Blockhead Motors Wild One (I still want a Red/Black Wild One), cause I don't wanna beat on my BHM-WO.
Ok, people, Thanks for Watching and until next time (cause I forgot to say it), Have a good day, good week, good month, good year, good life!!!!!
Peter Smith of CW-01 Creations has started a speed challenge using the Tamiya DT-02 chassis, see his videos for the rules..
My steering link is still tweaked from my last run but don't really seem to hurt the buggy much in terms of going straight.
When it flipped over I thought, well there's a "poo splatter fart" but it hit the gravel & flipped back onto its wheels, lucky save and no "Stride to the ride" that time... Lucky for me, my RX antenna sits about an inch lower than the opening in the antenna tube (pipe, mast, whatever) as the slide ground down the tube. I forgot to put the curved back in the tube (see above) to keep it from scraping as much.
Well, bottom line, I got the buggy to 62 Mph... It has more in it, I can tweak some settings. I'm on the road to 65 or even 70+ Mph, can it be done????
Thanks for hosting this Peter, win or lose, it's still fun (although I always say, speed is fun but cost more to go fast and going fast breaks more parts).
Thank You all for watching.... Until next time, Semper Fi!!!!!!!!!!
I started this test 11 months ago... so if you missed them they are in my video library and I used a few different motors...
Did I need to say what the rpm was aloud, NOPE.... But, I did anyway...
So, is it really worth putting ball bearings in a Tamiya brushed motor (if you can)???
It's a negligible amount of rpm gain, now, it might be a bit more efficient and the bearings might last longer than the bushing (proper maintenance comes into play here). Most all bearings come packed with grease in them, I clean my bearings of such gunk and then give them a small, very small drop of bear oil (Acer Racing Sin Oil).
Will the Holiday Buggy go faster?? What's your guess??
I don't even have the motor in the buggy yet as I type this (7/30/24 or 30/7/24) so I don't even know..
Again, what's your guess for the speed of the Holiday Buggy now...
Thanks Everyone for Watching and listening to me stumble and ramble on..
This is just a first test run.. Things need to be sorted out so here's a slo-mo shot.
The steering is kind of shallow (steering throw is not wide enough)
I do hate the battery wires hanging out of the side (re-wire or shorter wires will help, they cock the body to one side...
Again, 90% done, still needs some "tuning" to run true and right. This is a Vintage Fox so no "bashing" (I call it RC Abuse).
Thanks for watching........ More to come
Kevin's truck is a Mod Clod with stock motors running on 3S
Mine is a Tamiya TXT-2 all stock with bearings with Clod wheels & tires on 3S.
So, same everything as last run but this time with a bearing set (also from The RC Elf), I did record tearing the buggy down and putting the bearings in but, I left it out... I will say, It's more involved tearing the buggy down to put them in (Build the kit with them as you go)..
So, what did I get from adding bearings to the buggy, 3 more mph, I'd say that's a jump up in speed, it's a plus anyway.. If you missed the first go with the Tamiya Super Stock BZ motor, the link to that video is below.
What's next... Well, next step is to put bearings into the BZ motor (dyno test before & after will be first), then back to the lot to run it again...
Any guess what the outcome will be??? Leave your thoughts in the comments, No, I don't know yet myself, the buggy still sits where I put it when I came home from this run. Rumors are that an increase of 300 to 800 RPM or more can be achieved just by adding bearing to a motor, I'll be testing that..
Ok, I talk too much, Thank You all for watching and I look forward to your comments and your guess of the RPM gain of the BZ motor with bearings in it.
Thanks You again for your time.....
youtu.be/Y7RA2kcb7pE?si=9ID8jVyqXiE26lC8
I did 3 or 4 runs, crashed out with every run but this was my best to date (7-13-2024)..
A run before this run, I wrecked, steering servo got messed up (using a nylon gear servo).
Center pole NOT 3rd!!!!!!
I have the other runs recorded but to put them here would make this video @ a half hour long..... Maybe some crash footage shorts or something...
"I bent my rod"
Out of words now (I'm also tired)
Please leave a comment; Does this run count???
Are the ESC's & Motors drawing too much current causing the servo to flat line momentarily? Is the servo too old (it is an old one I used for many years, maybe a 2000 servo)??
I am using a Non Futaba receiver (RX), I do have a Futaba RX and my system is dual esc ready.....
I might have to go with SOA (servo on axle) and a rear steer lock out kit... UK Monsters will be my choice if I go that route. I might need a "cap pack", I don't really know... This is my first time trying a Brushless Clod build so I don't really know what to expect... Yes, I did pull a power wire from one of the ESC's to the RX (after my first run and it did the same thing).
Any thoughts? Any ideas?
All comments are welcome....
If this fails again, the whole system will go into my Thunder Tech Racing Ripper Pro chassis and give that a go... Its running the same gear ratio, I never change them.
Thanks for Watching!!!
#1; This IS NOT part of the DT-02 speed challenge Peter Smith of CW-01 Creations is hosting....
#2; My camera angle really sucked as I was doing passes in front of the camera, but I ain't doing it over..... I'll get better footage of a run AFTER I put the ball bearings in the buggy.
#3; as I edited this, 6/27/2024 (27/6/2024 for weird way), I noticed I have on the TAMIYA TT-02B/DF-03 Aluminum Damper Set #54993, I test fitted them and forgot to take them off....
This is almost a stock buggy, it has a Tamiya Super stock BZ 23 turn motor (#53930), 17 tooth pinion, and of course, as I stated above, those dampers.
I was running on/with a Gartpot 4000mAh 50c 2S lipo pack.
Both motors have locked timing, both motors have bushings (bushes, again the weird way).. However, the Tamiya is a 23 turn motor & the Trinity is a 27 turn motor. Maybe a dyno test of the two is in order.....
If you missed the run with the Trinity Paradox Pro motor, this is the link
youtu.be/tJPx-kxwhzk?si=aihx13w4iyHPjjYj
@theoagrc
Hey Craig, it sounds typical in this run, but not as loud as yours mate, please look at your gears and/or diff.. I don't wanna see you burn anything up cause things are getting hot.. Hell, use a temp gun on the motor after a few passes and check the temp, then compare that to a buggy that's much more quiet.
Thanks RC Elf for the kit
Thank You all for Watching...
Please leave a comment if you wish...
Criticism is also welcome...
48mph or 77.+ kph isn't bad...
The buggy did not lift the front wheels unless I got very aggressive with the trigger..
Peter, if my tires & lipo choice is wrong, let me know... I can make changes..
Oh, all stock gearing with a 19 tooth pinion.
I am using my Losi No Prep Drag Car Rear Tires...
***I meant to type DT-02 NOT DT-01*** as stated in the title card.
This gave me the opportunity to brush off the lathe and use it.
I had plans to run this motor in the DT-02 speed challenge that Peter over at
@cw-01creations46
is sponsoring... IF I do this speed run... It won't be in the brushed motor category, I WILL RUN BRUSHLESS..
If you don't know about this challenge, go see Peter's channel, the rules are in video format and open to all... Good Luck to Everyone!!!!
@cw-01creations46
I have not done a video in a while however, I have been watching and liking videos to everyone I am subbed to... I just have not been leaving comments... In a Funk as it seems......
Thanks again Craig for the stickers & Mini too... Almost 3 years man, how long have you had the channel???
Below are links to Craig's & Mini's channels, Mini only has one vid but don't let that stop you from subbing her channel, I'm sure more is coming.
Thanks again everyone for your time and patience...
@theoagrc
@TheMiniOAGRC


