Pelican Parts
Porsche Boxster 986 CV Joint and Boot Replacement
updated
The cooling systems on most cars are often very neglected, as most owners don't know much about them (see Project 29 for more information). The most vulnerable components in the entire system are the radiator and the heater core, as they tend to be damaged by corrosion and electrolysis. Poor maintenance of the system can result in the build-up of corrosion elements in both the radiator and heater core, creating clogs and leaks that decrease cooling performance. If the engine overheats, the additional heat from the coolant can also damage sensitive plastic attachments and components.
When replacing your radiator, you want to make sure that you replace it with one that meets or exceeds the OEM cooling standards. Although Porsche cooling systems don't typically fail very often, age and neglect may lead to overheating problems. Therefore, it may be a wise idea to install a center-mounted radiator that performs a better job of cooling than the standard pair (see Pelican Technical Article: Center Radiator Installation). I also recommend replacing your water pump, radiator hoses, thermostat, and any hose clamps too (PelicanParts.com sells complete kits for this replacement). All of these components can be damaged by a cooling system that has overheated. It's also a good time to swap out your old belt...
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/32-WATER-Main_Radiator/32-WATER-Main_Radiator.htm
It may be that a starter motor is working fine one day and then all of a sudden dies the next day. Or, sometimes the motor gets weaker and weaker and turns the car over slower and slower. This is a possible sign that you should replace your starter motor. However, before replacing your starter, check the condition of your battery and make sure you're your ground strap is properly installed. (see Pelican Technical Article: Battery Disconnect Switch / Battery Buddy Installation). Also check the clutch pedal switch (see Pelican Technical Article: Brake Pedal Switch Replacement / Clutch Pedal Switch Replacement) and also the proper operation of the electronic immobilizer system. Try a different ignition key: the key has a built in RFID chip that may have somehow become damaged. If possible, have the system checked using the Porsche factory scan tools (PST-2 or PIWIS).
The starter is located in the engine compartment under the convertible top. The first step in the removal process is to raise the top and gain access to the engine (see Pelican Technical Article: Air Filter / Pollen Filter Replacement). Then it's very important that you disconnect the battery. The starter has a direct connection to the positive terminal of the battery, and you can cause a lot of harm to yourself and the car if you short circuit the terminals (see Pelican Technical Article: Battery Disconnect Switch / Battery Buddy Installation). Once you have access to the top of the engine, remove the intake air snorkel that attaches to the throttle body (see Photo 4 in Pelican Technical Article: Cold Air Intake Installation). Then, loosen up the clamps that hold the intake manifold tube tight (see Figure 1). Now disconnect the hoses and bolts that attach the throttle body to the engine. For 1997-99 cars, you may have to loosen the clamp that holds the accelerator cable in place..
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm
I recommend replacing your spark plugs every 10,000 miles, or about once a year. In reality, you can probably go longer than that, however, you never really quite know how long the plugs are going to last, or you may forget to replace them if you don't setup a yearly schedule.
With the introduction of the Boxster engine, Porsche eliminated the use of spark plug wires by integrating six small spark plug coils that sit on top of each spark plug. While this configuration may be a bit more expensive than the typical single coil, single capacitive discharge box configuration, it makes the car's ignition system more reliable by removing a component that constantly wears out and fails (spark plug wires). It's a pretty cool setup, not commonly found on older cars. As manufacturing components have become increasingly inexpensive, ignition setups like these have become more common.
Begin by prepping the car. The only thing that you really need to do is to make sure that the car is cold. If you try to remove or install spark plugs in a hot car, then you may encounter problems with the spark plugs gumming up or damaging the relatively delicate threads in the aluminum cylinder head. Make sure that the car is cold, or at the bare minimum, only slightly warm to the touch...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils.htm
I usually recommend that you replace both the front and the rear at the same time, as they take roughly similar abuse over their lifetime, and the fronts or rears are not likely to be more or less worn than the other ones. As a rule, the shocks should always be replaced in pairs (left and right together). The replacement procedures for the front and rear shocks are very similar.
I recommend that you replace your shocks every 50,000 miles or so, or if they start to show signs of fading or wearing out. If you push down on a corner of the car, it should spring back with almost no oscillation up and down. If the car bounces up and down, then you probably need new shocks. Different driving patterns may also affect the life of shock absorbers. Cars that are raced or often driven on windy roads may need to have their shocks replaced more often than street cars. It is also important to remember to have the car realigned if you install performance springs into your car that lower it from its stock level. Changing the height of the suspension changes the values of the alignment / suspension settings...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/63-SUSPEN-Shocks_-_Springs/63-SUSPEN-Shocks_-_Springs.htm
The Motronic system (also called the Digital Motor Electronics or DME) is hands down the best overall fuel injection system that you can use when you consider price and performance. Ignition timing and fuel delivery are all controlled by a digital map that is recorded in a removable chip within the main fuel injection (DME) computer. The computer takes input from a variety of sensors that are located on the engine: engine coolant temperature, crank angle, throttle position, exhaust gas oxygen (mixture), ambient air temperature, and mass air flow. The DME flash memory chip is programmed from the factory with certain performance characteristics (mostly conservative) so that the engine will react well under a host of varying conditions.
As with any electronic device, components can fail, triggering problems with the system. The Porsche Motronic system is designed to react to these failures and indicate them to the driver, so that they can be fixed. If one of the computer's sensors is not working properly, then the computer may not be able to successfully identify the current state of the engine and choose the appropriate fuel mixture or timing advance level. When this happens, the fuel mileage drops, engine performance suffers, emissions increase, and the car typically illuminates the 'check engine' light.
Pre-1995 Porsches were equipped with what is known as OBD I (On Board Diagnostics Level I). Starting in 1996, they were equipped with a more advanced version called OBD II, which was mandated by the US government, in order to standardize automotive repair and diagnostics. The OBD system is responsible for monitoring and checking all of the fuel injection sensors and systems in the vehicle, and turns on the 'check engine' lamp if it finds a problem or irregularity with one of them. If there is a problem with a sensor or component, the computer lodges a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the main computer until it is read and reset...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/20-FUEL-Code_Reading/20-FUEL-Code_Reading.htm
When Porsche designed this car, they really didn't try to reduce the amount of rubber used in the assembly. As a result, the task of replacing all of the radiator hoses on the car is a really big chore. One of the more difficult parts is actually figuring out where they are all located! For that purpose, I've created a table of hoses and general locations to help you check your hoses and replace them if necessary. Please keep in mind that slight variations in hoses and locations have occurred over the length of production of the Boxster.
I recommend inspecting your rubber hoses every two years or so. As they age, they have a tendency to get hard and brittle. When you gently squeeze a hose, it should be relatively soft and easy to indent with your hand. It shouldn't feel like it's brittle or crunching when you squeeze it. It should spring back to its original shape pretty quickly after being compressed. If it feels very hard, then it might be time to replace it. If there is a bulge in the hose, or any type of crack in the surface of the hose, then you should replace it as well. Also check for wetness or leaks around where the hoses create their connections: that is a sign that the hose should be replaced. Some hoses may be coated with some left-over cosmoline from the factory: don't' mistake these for bad radiator hoses...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/30-WATER-Hoses/30-WATER-Hoses.htm
The first step in the process is to make sure that your parking brake cables and handles are adjusted properly. Refer to Project 51 for details on this procedure.
The parking brake shoes can only be inspected after the removal of the rear brake discs. Refer to Project 55 for the procedure for this removal. After you have the brake discs off, you can visually inspect the shoes for wear. The shoes should have some brake lining along the top, and should not have any heavy grooves cut into them. Compare your brake shoes to the new shoes in the pictures in this project to determine if you need to replace yours.
After the brake disc has been removed from the brake assembly, remove the small parking brake adjuster by prying it out from between the left and right parking brake shoe. Make sure that the parking brake handle is all the way down for this procedure. Be careful while you are performing this removal, as the adjuster is spring loaded and the springs may fly out when you are prying it out...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/53-BRAKES-Brake_Shoe_Replacement/53-BRAKES-Brake_Shoe_Replacement.htm
The adjustment of the brake shoes that control the parking brake is an easy process, and shouldn't take you more than an hour to accomplish.
The first step is to raise the rear of the car and remove the two road wheels. This will allow you access to the rear calipers. Make sure that the parking brake lever is released and the car is in neutral. Using a screwdriver, push back slightly on the brake pads until the brake disc is allowed to turn freely on its spindle. Be careful to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, as pushing the pads back will make the fluid level rise and may cause it to overflow.
Once the brake disc can be moved easily, move to the cockpit of the car. Underneath the rear cover on the center console, you will see a rubber insert with a plastic panel underneath. Remove the rubber insert and the torx screw underneath, and pry up the plastic panel. Now loosen the two nuts that attach the handbrake turnbuckle so that the two cables become slack. If there is any tension on these cables, then it will be difficult to adjust the handbrake...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/51-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjustment/51-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjustment.htm
A finely tuned fuel injection system with an oxygen sensor can maintain an air/fuel ratio within a close tolerance of .02 percent. Keeping the engine at the stoichiometric level (14.6:1 air/fuel ratio) helps the engine generate the most power with the least amount of emissions.
The oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust system of the engine, and they sense the oxygen content of the exhaust gases. There are a total of four on the Boxster: two for each catalytic converter on each side of the car. The sensor located just in front of the catalytic converter measures the mixture of the exhaust gasses exiting the engine. The sensor located after the catalytic converter is used to measure the performance of the converter by comparing the O2 levels before and after. The amount of oxygen in the exhaust varies according to the air/fuel ratio of the fuel injection system. The oxygen sensor produces a small voltage signal that is interpreted by the electronic control unit (ECU) of the fuel injection system. The ECU makes constant adjustments in fuel delivery according to the signal generated by the oxygen sensor in order to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/19-FUEL-02_Sensor/19-FUEL-02_Sensor.htm
Today's modern sports cars have exhaust systems that don't wear out as much as in the past, but there's still a definite need to upgrade to that "sporty sound". Luckily, on the 1997-04, you can upgrade to a sport muffler pretty easily.
The process is quite simple: jack up the car, undo the brackets and pipes and then drop down the muffler. I would definitely recommend having a buddy help you with the process: these mufflers are heavy and can be unwieldy, particularly underneath the car. Have a friend hold the muffler up into the car when you disconnect the brackets. Also, the removal of the muffler is made easier if you remove the rear bumper first, as you will have easier access to all of the mounting brackets.
The Dansk stainless steel sport muffler shown here is a great addition to your Boxster. Similar, if not identical to the sport muffler option provided on the Boxster S, the Dansk system is designed to give a sportier exhaust sound, all the while reducing backpressure and increasing horsepower. I have not personally tested its performance on the dyno (Pelican Technical Article: Dyno Testing), but it certainly sounds great, and is pretty easy to install. For a higher performance system that includes high-flow catalytic converters, see Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Performance Exhaust System.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/46-EXHAUST-Muffler/46-EXHAUST-Muffler.htm
With the use of synthetic oils oil changes have become less frequent but even a good running engine uses oil over time and mileage. BMW felt an oil level sensor would help remind motorist about their oil level. Your oil level sensor can malfunction and turn on the warning message or it can leak. In this the article we will go over all the steps in removing the oil lever sensor.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/05-ENGINE-Oil_Level_Sensor_Removal/05-ENGINE-Oil_Level_Sensor_Removal.htm
The external oil filter housing is mounted on the driver side of the engine compartment towards the front behind the headlight assembly. It also contains an oil pressure switch mounted at the base of the assembly. The housing is rubber mounted to the body of the car. Over time these rubber mounts can break and they are replaceable items. Oil lines bring high pressure oil to the housing to get filtered. This also dissipates some of the heat the oil absorbs from the engine. These lines and fittings can leak as O-rings age. In this tech article we will go over all the steps to replace your oil filter housing and lines.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/04-ENGINE-Oil_Filter_Housing_And_Lines_Removal/04-ENGINE-Oil_Filter_Housing_And_Lines_Removal.htm
BMWs use sound deadening pads and covers to mask the noise and rubber engine mounts isolate the engine vibration from the chassis of the car. When a motor mount fails it allows the engine to move around in the engine compartment. Obviously this can cause excessive vibration and movement and lead to clunking under acceleration and/or deceleration.
The lower engine cover needs to be removed to access the motor mounts. See our tech article on removing the engine lower covers. Also with the six cylinder engine the air-box and air intake tubes will need to be removed to have access to the motor mount. Other components have been removed for photographic purposes such as the alternator and the power steering pump. It does not have to be removed to replace the motor mounts.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/93-ENGINE-Motor_Mounts_Removal/93-ENGINE-Motor_Mounts_Removal.htm
This common and not so difficult job still creates a bit of anxiousness in the mind of the experienced mechanic as well as the amateur. A repeatable process with safety in mind can ease the nerves. For example, always work on level solid ground, use tools you trust and never rush the job. Remember to block the wheels to prevent unwanted vehicle movement. Use a good quality jack and jack stands and don't be afraid to add an additional jack stand or support under the vehicle.
When jacking the front of your vehicle, place the transmission in Park and apply parking brake, along with blocking the wheels with a chock. When jacking the rear of your vehicle, you do not have the transmission or parking brake to hold the rear wheels still. Use wheel chocks on right and left front wheels, (in front and behind tire).
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/14-BASICS-Jacking_Your_Vehicle/14-BASICS-Jacking_Your_Vehicle.htm
Option codes will help you determine what your vehicle is equipped with when ordering parts or diagnosing an issue. The trim level list below identifies possible options a BMW E39 could be equipped with. Not all options were available all years and some became standard options as the vehicle reached later years. There is a ton of confusing information on the web regarding option codes and what was what, my suggestion is to have your local shop or dealer decode your VIN next time you are in for service. Have them supply you an option code list and store it with your vehicle service records.
E39 Trim Levels
Premium package
Sport wheels and tires
Leather upholstery
Multifunction steering wheel
Wood grain interior trim
Rain-sensing windshield wipers (standard equipment from model year 2000)
Auto-dimming rear-view mirror
Power seats
Moonroof (moonroof also available separately)
Sport package
The sport package was available on all E39 models, unless you have the M5.
Three-spoke steering wheel (standard in 2000)
Sport seats with adjustable thigh support
17-inch sport wheels (not applicable with cold weather package)
Sport suspension (began with 528i, rear wheel drive models)
Sport Premium package
This was a mix of the Premium and Sport package and included options from both
Cold weather package (started in 1999)
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/13-BASICS-Identifying_Vehicle_Options/13-BASICS-Identifying_Vehicle_Options.htm
Pass-through seat ski bag
Heated seats
Heated steering wheel
Headlight washers
Decoding your VIN
You VIN (vehicle identification number) can be used to help purchase parts and identify vehicle options. The last seven numbers are all you need when ordering parts. However, it is important to know how to decode the entire VIN.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/29-BODY-Headlight_Replacement/29-BODY-Headlight_Replacement.htm
Unfortunately with BMW E39 models, the lens is attached to the housing with an adhesive, which prohibits replacing it. This means you are left with the option of replacing the entire headlight assembly or refinishing the lens. I find refinishing the lens, when done right can add years to your old headlight. Refinishing also saves a good amount of money, left to spend on better modifications for your E39. There are many kits available to refinish your lens. I am going to use a version that requires good old elbow grease. If you spring for the more expensive models, you can use a power drill and reduce the time by at least half. My procedure can be followed using standard sand paper and rubbing compound. However, check that your refinishing kit is similar, if not, follow the directions supplied with your kit.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/28-BODY-Headlight_Lens_Refinishing/28-BODY-Headlight_Lens_Refinishing.htm
American fuel distribution is not the cleanest way to distribute clean, low water content fuel. This dirt and water eventually gets picked up by the fuel pump through the strainer. In order to protect the dirt from reaching the more delicate fuel injectors a fuel filter is put in-line with the supply lines. The job of the fuel filter is to trap contaminates in the filter element. Eventually the fuel filter will restrict fuel flow. This will lower your cars performance and if it's severe enough may cause the check engine light to come on.
You should replace your fuel filter every two years. In this tech article we will go over all the steps to remove your fuel filter so you can replace it. You do not need to remove the left side front wheel but it does give you more room to work. We have removed the wheel for photographic purposes.
Jack up your vehicle and support it on jack stands. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/87-BASICS-Fuel_Filter_Replacement/87-BASICS-Fuel_Filter_Replacement.htm
Removing it is required to service the radiator cooling fans, A/C condenser, horns, and headlight washers. Try to have a friend or helper around when removing the bumper cover, this will help avoid damaging the paint finish.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/25-BODY-Front_Bumper_Replacement/25-BODY-Front_Bumper_Replacement.htm
This flying debris can cause damage to the wiring, hoses and other components under the hood. The accessory drive belts can be struck by something and thrown off leaving you without a water pump and without an alternator. An engine splash shield may not seem like much, but it does protect this road debris from ending up in your engine compartment. As a result of this, you will have to remove the lower engine splash shield to access some of the components to service them. In this tech article we will show you have to remove the engine splash shield on the six and eight cylinder engine models.
In order to perform these steps you should have the car jacked up and supported. See our tech article on lifting and supporting your vehicle.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/95-BASICS-Engine_Splash_Shield_Removal/95-BASICS-Engine_Splash_Shield_Removal.htm
In this article, I will show you how to remove the covers, providing easy access to the top and rear of engine.
When removing the microfilter housings and ducts, you may have to remove the upper engine cover on 8-cylinder models. On 6-cylinder models you can leave the engine cover in place. Now this all depends on what repair you are performing. You will have to decide what covers have to be removed due to the repair you are performing. For example: bleeding the brakes, you will only have to remove the left side microfilter housing. Spark plugs, you will have to remove all the engine covers, including the microfilter housings.
Remove cabin microfilters. See our tech article on Cabin microfilter replacing.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/52-ENGINE-Engine_Covers_Removal/52-ENGINE-Engine_Covers_Removal.htm
Replace air filter once a year or more frequently if you drive in a dusty area. I suggest checking each time you change your engine oil, assuming you are changing your oil every 5,000 miles. It's easy to remove to inspect it and replacing it early will help you maintain your maximum fuel economy.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/12-BASICS-Engine_Air_Filter_Replacement/12-BASICS-Engine_Air_Filter_Replacement.htm
Be sure to work with a cool engine and remove the key from the ignition.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/11-BASICS-Drive_Belt_Replacement/11-BASICS-Drive_Belt_Replacement.htm
On BMW E39 models the power door lock actuator is integrated with the latch. As well as having an actuator it also has position switches so the body computer and instrument cluster knows and can warn you when the door is open. These position sensors also inform the body control module (BCM) if the door is locked and should be unlocked or vice versa. Sometimes the outside latch handle signal is sent to the body module to let it know to wake up when the door is opened. A problem latch can lead to battery drains delaying computers from going into sleep mode. This can happen when the interior light stays illuminated because the latch is not indicating to the BCM that the door is closed.
Remove interior door panel. See our tech article on door panel removing. Since you are not removing the window regulator you should have the window positioned all the way up before you disconnect the battery.
The first step is to follow the procedure for Interior Front Door Panel Removal. The procedure here picks up after that is complete.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/21-BODY-Door_Latch_Replacement/21-BODY-Door_Latch_Replacement.htm
The toughest job on your car is the engine head gasket. This gasket has to hold coolant pressure, oil pressure and combustion chamber pressure. The eight cylinder engine internal combustion engine ignites four cylinders within every engine revolution. Multiply that the thousands of revolutions as you accelerate your engine and you should be impressed your engine runs as well as it does. Heat cycles, over-heating and poor maintenance can cause your head gasket to fail. This is a big job to replace. You are basically fixing half the engine. In this tech article we are going to show you all the steps to remove, clean and replace you engine head gasket.
In order to remove your head gasket you are going to have to lift the vehicle, support the vehicle and remove some other major components such as the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and timing chain components. We will reference these steps in the first few pictures of this article. This article is on the 4.4 liter V8 produced from 1997 to 1999 (9/98).
For the cylinder head gasket replacement procedure for the 6 cylinder look at the E46 article.
While we strongly recommend you replace both head gaskets at the same time you can remove and replace only one cylinder head. In this tech article we are going to service both cylinder and show the differences from each side. When giving instructions to remove a part from the cylinder remember that you have to follow the same step for the other side of the engine.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/97-ENGINE-Cylinder_Head_Gasket_Removal/97-ENGINE-Cylinder_Head_Gasket_Removal.htm
The micro-filter helps eliminate dirt and dust particles from entering the vehicle interior. It also protects HVAC system components from contamination. A dirty heater core would not provide sufficient heat and a dirty evaporator would not provide sufficient cooling. The micro-filters are located in the wiper cowl area beneath the lid. Always replace both micro-filters at the same time.
BMW recommends replacing the fresh air cabin micro-filter every 10,000 miles or every other oil change.
In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with changing the cabin micro-filter. It is quite easy and can be done in a few minutes.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/19-BODY-Cabin_Microfilter_Replacement/19-BODY-Cabin_Microfilter_Replacement.htm
If you have a micrometer you can measure the brake rotor thickness. If it is too thin then you should replace the rotors. The minimum thicknesses are as follows: Front brake rotor minimum thickness: All models except M5 20.4 mm (0.73 in), Rear brake rotor minimum thickness: All models except M5 8.4 mm (0.73 in).
Always replace both rotors on the axle at the same time. This should provide even braking from both wheels preventing the car from pulling to one side or another under braking.
Lift and support the axle of the vehicle you are replacing the brake pads on. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.
Remove wheels on axle you are replacing brake rotors on.
In order to change the rotors you are going to have to remove the brake caliper. Follow the procedure in the tech article for either the front or rear brake pad removal to remove the calipers and then continue with this procedure.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/48-BRAKES-Brake_Rotor_Replacement/48-BRAKES-Brake_Rotor_Replacement.htm
This cylinder is full of brake fluid. The brake fluid that is now under pressure passes through your brake lines to your caliper. It's the calipers job to squeeze down on the brake pads against the rotor to slow down your car. Over time seals get worn in the master cylinder and can leak. The brake master cylinder must get removed with the brake booster. There is not enough room to remove only the master cylinder. In this tech article we are going to show you how to do this.
Remove the lower cabin micro-filter housing on the driver side. See our tech article on removing engine covers.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/46-BRAKES-Brake_Master_Cylinder_Replacement/46-BRAKES-Brake_Master_Cylinder_Replacement.htm
Lift and support the axle of vehicle you are replacing brake lines on. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.
Remove wheels on axle you are replacing brake lines on.
To change the brake lines you are going to have to open up the system. Brake fluid is going to leak out. Have a large drip tray under the suspension of the wheel you are working on at the time. Be careful not to get brake fluid on your hands or the paint of your vehicle. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint finishes.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/45-BRAKES-Brake_Lines_Replacement/45-BRAKES-Brake_Lines_Replacement.htm
This cylinder is full of brake fluid. The brake fluid that is now under pressure is applied to your caliper. It's the calipers job to squeeze down on the brake pads forcing them against the rotor to slow down your car. Over time seals get worn in the caliper and can leak. Sometimes the bleeder screw gets seized inside the caliper and you can no longer properly bleed the brakes. A piston can also stick. This means the brake is still applied even though you have released the brake pedal. This can over heat the rotor and in extreme cases cause the rotor/wheel not to move at all. If you continue to drive like this your will smell brake dust and will eventually ruin your brake pads and rotors. This can be a serious safety concern. Replacing the caliper can address these concerns.
Lift and support the axle of vehicle you are replacing the calipers on. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.
Remove wheels on axle you are replacing brake caliper on.
It is not recommended that you crimp the brake lines to prevent fluid from coming out. You should cap the end of the line with a tight seal. It is strongly recommended that you replace your brake lines when you replace your calipers. If you crimp the brake line there is a chance you can damage the inside of the line without knowing it and it can lead to other problems.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/100-BRAKES-Brake_Caliper_Replacement/100-BRAKES-Brake_Caliper_Replacement.htm
This cylinder is full of brake fluid. The brake fluid that is now under pressure travels through your brake lines and is finally applied to your caliper. It's the calipers job to squeeze down on the brake pads against the rotor to slow down your car. If you have opened up the system to service it or you just want to flush out the old brake fluid you should bleed your brakes. When the system is open air gets in. The bleeding process bleeds the air out of the system. If you add new fluid to the master cylinder reservoir as you bleed the brakes the old fluid is forced out and the new fluid is drawn in. BMW recommends your flush out your brake system every two years.
There are a few ways to bleed brakes. There are pressure bleeders available that apply pressurized brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. All you have to do is open a bleeder valve. The new fluid from the pressure bleeder tool is forced into the master cylinder with air pressure. The old fluid is forced out the bleeder screw. Simply open the bleeder until you see cleaner brake fluid come out and then close the bleeder screw.
There are vacuum bleeders that work on the vacuum principle. There are two types. One is an air powered one that uses shop air pressure to generate a vacuum in the tool. This vacuum source is piped to the bleeder screw. With vacuum applied open the bleeder screw and vacuum will suck out the old fluid until the new fluid from the reservoir comes out then close the bleeder screw. There are manual tools that have you manually pump the tool to generate the vacuum. You will have to close the bleeder screw from time to time and pump on the tool to make vacuum then open the bleeder screw again.
The final method does not require any tools but you will need a helper. This is the procedure we are describing in this tech article. If you have the aforementioned tools follow the tool manufacturer's instructions that came with the tool. If you are using a helper follow these steps.
You do not have to lift and support the vehicle but to make the job easier you may want to raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheels to have clearer access to the bleed screws. Here we have the wheels removed for photographic purposes.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/44-BRAKES-Brake_Bleeding/44-BRAKES-Brake_Bleeding.htm
If you push the button to change the blower motor speed and nothing happens you may have a blown fuse, a bad blower motor relay or a bad final stage. There have been cases where the final stage has kept the blower motor running while the ignition key is off, therefore draining the battery and leading to a "no-start" problem the next morning. In this tech article we are going to review how to test each component in the system.
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It is mounted in the middle of the dashboard under the upper cover. In order to service this motor you need to remove this upper dash panel. It uses two fans (aka squirrel cages) on each side of the motor. The fan blades circulate the air in the HVAC unit and force it past the heater core for heat or the evaporator for colder air. When operating your HVAC you may feel a vibration in the dashboard. This could be the result of some debris getting in the HVAC housing and hitting the fan blades. Also the blower motor itself may be noisy. This might be the result of a faulty motor that needs to be replaced. If you are experiencing these symptoms then you should remove your blower motor and inspect the area.
In order to remove the upper dash panel to access the blower motor you need to remove the driver side lower panel and the passenger side glove box. Go to Glove Box Removal tech article and complete that procedure first. The next tech article that needs to be completed is Driver Side Lower Dash Panel followed by Center Dash Panel. After these three jobs are done you can now start to remove your upper dash panel. Disconnecting the Battery and Steering Wheel Removal are two tech articles that need to be followed after the previous three steps.
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You make adjustments of your blower motor on your IHKA panel. The IHKA unit sends an electrical signal to the final stage and the final stage changes the blower motor speed. This final stage has been known to keep the blower motor running with the key on causing a battery drain. If you have a battery drain see if the blower motor is running (it may be running slowly and be almost silent) with the ignition key off.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/15-BODY-Blower_Motor_Final_Stage_Replacement/15-BODY-Blower_Motor_Final_Stage_Replacement.htm
When replacing your battery, be sure to use a high quality unit. Read battery connection notes before disconnecting battery. Be sure to protect yourself from battery acid, as it can spill during removal. Before disconnecting your battery, remove key from vehicle and store in a safe place and note radio presets. When battery is reconnected or loses its charge, the following items may need attention (depending on vehicle equipment). You may have to reset your clock, enter radio presets, initialize power windows, initialize the sunroof and normalize the steering angle sensor.
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Running the starter and the car draws electrical current. To supply this electrical power an alternator changes the engines rotating power into electrical energy therefore replenishing electrical energy to the battery. If an alternator fails the engine will only run as long as the battery can supply power. When the battery runs out of electrical power the engine will stop running. In this tech article we will go over all the steps to change the alternator on your E39 (except the water cooled models).
In order to remove the alternator you will need to remove the cooling fan, shroud, and accessory drive belt. See our tech articles on removing these components and follow the steps from there.
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If one of the wheel speed sensors indicates a different speed from the other wheels it knows that wheel has lost traction. The module will then control the brake pressure applied to the problem wheel until traction is regained. The ABS/DSC control unit monitors all the wheel speed sensors and if it detects a failure from one or more sensors it will flag a code and turn on the ABS/DSC warning light. Remember, there are many components in the ABS and DSC systems. Pull self-diagnostic trouble codes first before replacing any components.
In this tech article we are going to go over all of the steps to remove both front and rear wheel speed sensors.
Jack up and support the axle of the wheel speed sensor you are replacing. Review our tech article on jacking up and supporting your vehicle.
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/42-BRAKES-ABS_Sensor_Replacement/42-BRAKES-ABS_Sensor_Replacement.htm
In addition to the gorgeous factory three-spoke wheel, there are a wide variety of aftermarket wheels to choose from. Let's face it--the stock 911 Carrera wheel is not something that many people can get too excited about. Installing a wheel of your choosing cures all that...
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel_Replacement/62-SUSPEN-Steering_Wheel_Replacement.htm
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The cooling systems on most cars are often very neglected, as most owners don't know much about them (see Project 29 for more information). The most vulnerable components in the entire system are the radiator and the heater core, as they tend to be damaged by corrosion and electrolysis. Poor maintenance of the system can result in the buildup of corrosion elements in both the radiator and heater core, creating clogs and leaks that decrease cooling performance. If the engine overheats, the additional heat from the coolant can also damage sensitive plastic attachments and components...
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/32-WATER-Radiator_and_Fan_Replacement/32-WATER-Radiator_and_Fan_Replacement.htm
The first step in the process is to make sure that your parking brake cables and handles are adjusted properly. Refer to Project 51 for details on this procedure.
The parking brake shoes can only be inspected after the removal of the rear brake discs. Refer to Project 55 for the procedure for this removal. After you have the brake discs off, you can visually inspect the shoes for wear. The shoes should have some brake lining along the top and should not have any heavy grooves cut into them. Compare your brake shoes to the new shoes in the pictures in this project to determine if you need to replace yours.
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The adjustment of the brake shoes that control the parking brake is an easy process, and shouldn't take you more than an hour to accomplish.
The first step is to raise the rear of the car and remove the two road wheels. This will allow you access to the rear calipers. Make sure that the parking brake lever is released and the car is in neutral. Using a screwdriver, push back slightly on the brake pads until the brake disc is allowed to turn freely on its spindle. Be careful to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, as pushing the pads back will make the fluid level rise and may cause it to overflow...
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The reduced backpressure can result in an engine that flows air easier, resulting in an increase in horsepower. However, the amount of power that you can expect to gain depends on a variety of factors. Exhaust design in itself is somewhat of a black art. I recommend that you research the set of mufflers you wish to buy very closely and see if the manufacturer has dyno-proven results.
On a Carrera engine, the exhaust system is already limited due to the space requirements of the rear engine design. However, it is fair to say that gains of up to 15 or more horsepower are attainable by changing out the stock mufflers for a set of aftermarket ones...
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/46-EXHAUST-Muffler_Replacement/46-EXHAUST-Muffler_Replacement.htm
It only takes about 60 minutes to install a rear wing, provided you have the correct parts, a pre-painted wing and also the correct wiring harness.
Begin the procedure by first disconnecting the battery. This prevents the spoiler on the stock decklid from activating accidentally. Disconnecting the battery whenever you are going to be working with the cars electronics is always a good idea. Here we are just going to be working with a single connector, but it still doesn't hurt to eliminate the possibility of shorting out something.
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The heart of the brake system is the master cylinder, which controls the hydraulic pressure of the entire system. Unfortunately, over many years, the master cylinder has a tendency to wear out and leak. The leakage can occur internally or externally, resulting in a weakened braking system. If you have any problems with your brakes, and you think that it's related to the master cylinder, you should probably replace it...
Read the Full Article: pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/56-BRAKES-Master_Cylinder_Replacement/56-BRAKES-Master_Cylinder_Replacement.htm
In this article I'll go over some of the basics of the system. A common failure item is the sunroof actuation switch on the front panel. Before you actually replace the switch, you may want to try re-setting it. This is done by fully closing the sunroof and holding the button down for ten seconds after the roof has closed. Many times, this can resolve a faulty system.
To replace the switch, begin by prying out the two small trim pieces at the bottom edge with a small screwdriver. Underneath the trim pieces are two Philips head screws that hold the entire panel to the roof. Once removed, pull the whole panel off the roof. You'll now see the emergency retraction tool as well as the electrical connection to the sunroof switch. Squeeze the tabs on the connector and pull it off. Now just pry the sunroof switch out from the panel. The new one just pops in...
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Older-style meters used on fuel injection systems in the 1980s measured air volumetric flow, which worked fine, but then you also needed a separate sensor to figure out how cold or dense the air was. The mass airflow sensor senses the total amount of air passing the sensor and allows the fuel injection system to adjust the fuel mixture to compensate for cold weather and/or high altitude conditions. The MAF also incorporates an internal intake air temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the intake air...
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pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm
Frequent oil changes are perhaps the most important procedure you can do to maintain and prolong the life of your engine. However, with the better oils that are available today, the requirement for frequent changes is diminishing. Even though Porsche now recommends oil change intervals that are much farther apart than in the past, I usually recommend that you keep the changes under the 5,000-mile limit. If you don't drive your car too often, you should change the oil at least once a year to keep things fresh...
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Simple enough for the experienced mechanic, the procedure of lifting a 3,000-pound car can be a bit unnerving for the amateur. In this project, I'll start out by showing you the best places to jack your car up and how to support it while you're working on it.
First, let's talk a bit about safety. Haphazard use of a floor jack can result in some pretty significant and expensive damage to you or your car. Before you begin raising the car, make sure that you have the wheels of the car blocked so that it can't roll. It's also wise to have your parking brake on as well and the car placed in first gear. You should always use jack stands in pairs to support the car--not simply the floor jack. Even if you are only lifting the car up for a few minutes, make sure that you place an emergency jack stand loosely underneath the transmission, motor, or rear differential just in case the floor jack fails...
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The good news is that this is an easily replaced part. Sometimes you'll get some signs that the fan is failing, usually a high pitched squeal when the fan spins, indicating a worn fan bearing. Sometimes the fan just won't spin at all.
To replace the fan, begin by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery. This is the most important part of the job. You don't want to risk accidentally turning the fan on while removing it.
Now climb into the passenger side footwell. Up under the dash, you'll see a foam liner held in place by two plastic retaining screws. Remove these two screws and pull the foam liner out (See picture 2). Underneath you'll see a plastic access cover held in by two 6mm screws (See picture 3). Remove the two screws and take the panel off. This panel holds the fan in place in the blower housing...
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