The Last Stitch
Can I Sew Full-Time? Taking a Break From My Day-Job
updated
👖 Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
📧Download the free jeans-making tool kit
thelaststitch.com/free-download-patterns-and-templates-for-sewing-jeans
Videos mentioned
How to sew a jeans zipper
youtu.be/JXPmXO73uxs
How to Sew Jeans Back Pockets
youtu.be/GN75dvioDJ0
8 Easy Tips for Sewing Perfect Topstitching
youtu.be/KzbwPuUC598
Links to products in the video
Note: The Amazon links below are affiliate links, meaning I get a commission on qualifying purposes.
HUMP-JUMPER
Hump-Jumper/Button tool
amzn.to/3gXHW4Z
Jean-A-Ma-Jig
amzn.to/3i3Hzaq
Bernina Height Compensation Tool (has three levels)
ebay.com/itm/Bernina-Height-Compensation-Tool-NEW-Jeans-Bulky-Seams-/253563827005
AWL
Tailor’s awl from Clover
amzn.to/3lMLGtM
Tailor’s awl from Sew-Mate
amzn.to/3i3ond4
Gûtermann’s Extra Strong (M782) colours 968 and 412
amzn.to/2yAI9r4
Topstitching needles from Schmetz/Euro-Notions
amzn.to/3p67p1w
👕Order our latest book Fit for Knits
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
📧Sign up for my newsletter
thelaststitch.com/subscribe-to-my-newsletter
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖My sewing pants tutorials
thelaststitch.com/category/tutorials/sewing-pants
Blind hem tutorial
youtu.be/ziijrGl4VqM
Jeans Zipper tutorial
youtu.be/JXPmXO73uxs
👕Order our latest book Fit for Knits
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
👖 Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-boo
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
📧Sign up for my newsletter
thelaststitch.com/subscribe-to-my-newsletter
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
📄 Get your Free Knit Stitch Guide
thelaststitch.com/guide-knit-stitches
Videos mentioned:
Perfect Blind Hemming
youtu.be/ziijrGl4VqM
Twin-Needle Success!
youtu.be/SY9PfwnME38
Stabilise Shoulder Seams on Knit Tops
youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
Complete Guide To Interfacing for Sewing Knits
youtu.be/sDC3CW4Vhnw
👕Order our latest book Fit for Knits
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
👖 Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-boo
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
📧Sign up for my newsletter
thelaststitch.com/subscribe-to-my-newsletter
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
📄 Get your Free Knit Stitch Guide
thelaststitch.com/guide-knit-stitches
Videos mentioned:
Cutting Knit Fabrics: 6 Game-Changing Tips
youtu.be/NrBF-MPFRxc
Perfect Blind Hemming
youtu.be/ziijrGl4VqM
Twin-Needle Success!
youtu.be/SY9PfwnME38
Stabilise Shoulder Seams on Knit Tops
youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
Complete Guide To Interfacing for Sewing Knits
youtu.be/sDC3CW4Vhnw
👕Order our latest book Fit for Knits
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
👖 Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-boo
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
📧Sign up for my newsletter
thelaststitch.com/subscribe-to-my-newsletter
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew
Check out the book!
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
Follow Malena on Instagram: instagram.com/patternbymalena
Malena's sewing patterns: etsy.com/shop/PatternByMalena
Stabilising Shoulder Seams On Knit Tops (video)
youtu.be/i40Cn3ma0bY
Cutting Knit Fabrics (video)
youtu.be/NrBF-MPFRxc
👕 Order Fit for Knits Book now (Released November 7)
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-book
👖My Sewing Jeans Book: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Things mentioned in the video:
Skådis Pegboard Review
youtube.com/watch?v=U3cs6MEdnKY
BabyLock Imagine Serger Review
youtube.com/watch?v=xUHmkxD6EdQ
Take my Coverstitch Success Course
courses.thelaststitch.com
Serger Thread Rack from Amazon
amzn.to/3GXEcAi (Affiliate link)
Thread Spool Inserts (for the drawers)
amzn.to/3N19GJX (Amazon affiliate link)
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👩🎨Get my Iselin Beret PDF-pattern
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/iselin-beret-pdf-sewing-pattern
The pattern includes many style variations and comes in five different sizes.
Blog Tutorial
thelaststitch.com/sew-a-french-beret-easy-diy-tutorial
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
In this video I will the best tricks and simple methods for cutting knits.
How To Cut and Sew Striped Knits:
thelaststitch.com/gurli-sew-along-cutting-and-sewing-stripes-on-knit-tops
Blog Tutorial On How To Cut Knits: thelaststitch.com/cutting-knit-fabrics-8-essential-tips-for-success
Sewing With Knits Tutorials:
thelaststitch.com/category/sewing-knits
Kai Scissors: amzn.to/3ilWFNA
Rotary Cutters: amzn.to/3XFdq6G (Amazon affiliate links)
Topics covered:
1. Cut from the right side
2. How to tell right side from wrong side on knits
3. Follow the rib or weft, not the "selvedge"
4. Don't let the knit fabric hang off the table
5. Tools for cutting knits
6. Cutting knits as a single layer
7. How to find the grainline on knits
8. Use pattern weights or pin sparingly
What I wear in the video:
Eivy Cardigan Sewing Pattern: shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/eivy-cardigan-pdf-sewing-pattern
Gurli Knit Top Sewing Pattern: shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/gurli-puff-sleeve-top-pdf-sewing-pattern
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
● How to avoid stretched-out fabric
● Best interfacing for sewing knits
● Shrinking back fabric that has expanded
● Best stitches for sewing knits
● Techniques for professional finishes
🧵 The Eivy Cardigan Sewing Pattern
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/eivy-cardigan-pdf-sewing-pattern
👩🎓 My New Course! Coverstitch Success
courses.thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-success
● Tutorials mentioned in the video ●
Video: Complete Guide To Interfacing for Sewing Knits
youtu.be/sDC3CW4Vhnw
Video: Blind Hem Sewing Tutorial
youtu.be/SKzEHzSgiR8
Tutorial: Adding a Band to Cover the Neckline Seam
thelaststitch.com/sewing-a-band-facing-on-knit-garment-necklines
Tips For Sewing Knit Tops: Sew Along With Me
youtu.be/iapTerbsjIE
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
📖 Download My Free Troubleshooting Guide
thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-troubleshooting-guide
➡️ Get started with coverstitching
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XKEgKs59Lw3_1cPHZ6GGi9
🔍 Fix problems with your coverstitch machine
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WgAYjuylTcq2-ecOZofSni
⚙️ Reviews of coverstitch machines and accessories
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XgQEjpM8NXccHrl9WE5Etv
📘Want to learn even more? Get my book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🌐And check out all my coverstitching tutorials on my blog:
thelaststitch.com/category/coverstitch
🧻Erikas Syskrin (Seller of the Binder Holder)
https://www.erikassyskrin.se
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/gurli-puff-sleeve-top-pdf-sewing-pattern
The Secret to Sewing a Perfect Neckband on Knit Tops (Tutorial)
thelaststitch.com/the-secret-to-sewing-a-perfect-neckband-on-knit-tops
Video: Stabilising Shoulder Seams on Knit Tops
youtu.be/i40Cn3ma0bY
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
📖 Download My Free Troubleshooting Guide
thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-troubleshooting-guide
➡️ Get started with coverstitching
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XKEgKs59Lw3_1cPHZ6GGi9
🔍 Fix problems with your coverstitch machine
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WgAYjuylTcq2-ecOZofSni
⚙️ Reviews of coverstitch machines and accessories
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XgQEjpM8NXccHrl9WE5Etv
📘Want to learn even more? Get my book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🌐And check out all my coverstitching tutorials on my blog:
thelaststitch.com/category/coverstitch
1. Prepare for hemming
Make sure the edges of the fabric are evenly cut. I prefer to use a rotary cutter when cutting since it makes it so much easier to get those edges even.
To make hemming easier over bulky seams, clip the side seams at the fold and lay the clipped seam in the opposite direction. Just make sure that the cut is very small and that the seam you are using is sturdy enough to withstand a little clip.
2. FOLD THE HEM
On materials that can take a little heat, ironing the fold is recommended as it makes hemming easier.
Tips for keeping the fold in place
● Don’t over-pin when coverstitching, just add a few and remove them before you’ll get too close to the machine.
● Wonder clips (pictured above) are another option.
● You can also hand-baste the hem using large and loose stitches.
● With practice, you’ll likely be able to hem using just your fingers to keep the fold even.
3. START SEWING
Always begin at the back of the garment, just after the side seam. Pull all the threads back and to the left before you start sewing to make sure they don’t get snagged once you start sewing.
● Use a seam guide for an even hem if your machine lacks a built-in ruler.
● You can also use a piece of Lego attached with some sticky pads/Blu Tack to help you sew straighter.
● Another tip is to gently guide the fabric, but do not pull, to make sure it is evenly fed to avoid twisted seams.
4.SEWING OVER BUMPY SEAMS
If the surface is bumpy and the presser foot is tilted upwards or down, such as when stitching over a seam allowance, the feeding will suffer and the machine will have a harder time forming even stitches. That is why I recommend folding the seam allowance in opposite direction before sewing.
If the machine still struggles try to insert a
Insert a hump-jumper (height compensation tool) under the presser foot to level it when sewing over bulky seams.
Keep the hump-jumper in place until you´ve reached the end of the bump. Then remove it and keep sewing
You can also try to temporary increase the differential feed and/or the stitch length and see if this improves the feeding.
5. FINISH THE SEAM
If you are sewing on the round, sew over the beginning stitches for a couple of centimetres (an inch or less).
To secure, the pull method is usually the best way to secure a coverstitch seam.
1● If hemming on the round, pull the needle threads apart before overlapping
2 ● Overlap the stitches for about 2 cm (slightly less than an inch)
3 ● Sew the last stitch using the handwheel and then stop at the highest needlepoint.
4 ● Lift the presser foot
5 ● Use a crochet hook, an awl or tweezers to pull the needle thread towards you
6 ● Clip the threads
7 ● Grab the fabric but do not pinch the threads
8● Pull the fabric diagonally towards the back and to the left
This will pull the needle threads to the reverse side and secure the stitch.
9 ● For extra safety tie another knot on the reverse side to make sure the seam is 100% secured and will hold up over time
10 ● Trim away all the threads
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
👕 Sneak Peek: Fit For Knits Book
thelaststitch.com/fit-for-knits-a-sneak-peek-of-the-next-book
Five tips for sewing knits
1. Cut each piece as a single layer
2. Cut tiny notches instead of marking them with chalk
3. Don't let the fabric hang off the table
4. Mark the right side with tape
5. Pre-washing isn't always necessary
Watch Fit For Knits Book Livestream
youtu.be/F9WjCLybpg0
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
📖 Download My Free Troubleshooting Guide
thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-troubleshooting-guide
➡️ Get started with coverstitching
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XKEgKs59Lw3_1cPHZ6GGi9
🔍 Fix problems with your coverstitch machine
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WgAYjuylTcq2-ecOZofSni
⚙️ Reviews of coverstitch machines and accessories
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XgQEjpM8NXccHrl9WE5Etv
📘Want to learn even more? Get my book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🌐And check out all my coverstitching tutorials on my blog:
thelaststitch.com/category/coverstitch
TIPS FOR BETTER COVERSTITCHING
■ Make sure the needles sit firmly in the slot
■ Try a larger needle if the fabric and the machine can handle it
■ Replace used needles with fresh ones
■ Check the threading
■ Flatten out bumpy surfaces
■Increase stitch length and differential feed when sewing over bulky seams
■ Sometimes increasing the stitch length, in general, can help too. I’ve found that if I go below 2 on my coverstitch machine it’s much more likely to start skipping stitches.
■ Use a wash-away stabiliser or fusible interfacing to help the stitching form better
■ Never pull the fabric
■ Experiment with the presser foot pressure
■ Use quality thread and needles
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
Top 10 Sewing Tools for Less Than $10
thelaststitch.com/top-10-cheap-sewing-tools
✂️Sewing Tools mentioned in the video:✂️
(All links below are Amazon Affiliate Links meaning I will get a commission on qualifying purchases)
1. Hump-Jumper
amzn.to/3gXHW4Z
amzn.to/3i3Hzaq
2. Quilting bar guide
amzn.to/3RUnHZq
3. Button Hole Cutter
amzn.to/3i3GzmS
4. Magnetic Pin Cushion
amzn.to/3RUJfVA
5. Awl
amzn.to/3lMLGtM
6. Seam Gauge
amzn.to/3LrIZuT
7. Metal Washers
amzn.to/3dirtNj
8. Thread Snipper
amzn.to/3BLS6U6
9. Basting Glue
amzn.to/3lQOnul
10. Wonder-Clips
amzn.to/3eNRJPI
Sew Straight: The Tools You Need (video)
youtu.be/VIwgS0dva9E
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
We will also show you a sneak peek of the new book we are currently working on, we are so excited to share more about this project and get your feedback
Apply to be a beta reader for our book: tinyurl.com/fitforknitsreader
Follow Malena on Instagram: instagram.com/patternbymalena
Malena's sewing patterns: etsy.com/shop/PatternByMalena
Watch video:
How to stabilise shoulder seams on knits
youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
Tutorial for sewing neckbands on knits
thelaststitch.com/how-to-sew-knit-neckband-tshirt
How to sew gathers on knits
thelaststitch.com/4-ways-to-sew-gathers-on-knits
Rubber Mallet
amzn.to/3EaMaCw (Amazon affiliate link)
Clear Elastic
amzn.to/3aU6xXT (Amazon affiliate link)
Patterns in this video
Burda Twist Top 6911
Burdastyle Jersey Top 02-2021-103
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Explore all my guides to coverstitching
➡️ Get started with coverstitching
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XKEgKs59Lw3_1cPHZ6GGi9
🔍 Fix problems with your coverstitch machine
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WgAYjuylTcq2-ecOZofSni
⚙️ Reviews of coverstitch machines and accessories
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78XgQEjpM8NXccHrl9WE5Etv
📘Want to learn even more? Get my book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
📖 Want to start with something free? Download My Free Troubleshooting Guide
thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-troubleshooting-guide
🌐And check out all my coverstitching tutorials on my blog:
thelaststitch.com/category/coverstitch
Watch the extended version of this tutorial:
youtu.be/9LI88f0W7eA
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
How to flatten a cutting mat
1. Press the mat with an iron
Place a pressing cloth on the mat to protect the surface. Place an iron on top (I used medium heat) and press until the surface is warm to the touch.
2. Check the heat of the mat
The mat should be warm to touch, but nowhere near scorching heat.
3. Press flat with a wood plank and weights over the warped area
Make sure the weights cover a large area, larger than the warp. Because if don't you'll run the risk of just moving the curled area to another spot on the mat. Let the mat cool under pressure. Keep the weights on for a few hours to get the full effect.
4. Remove the weights and check the mat
The surface should have begun to flatten, but don't expect it to be totally flat after your first attempt.
5. Repeat the pressing sequence
Do this as many times as needed.
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Watch Topstitching Tutorial Video
youtu.be/LIkftEzi7ZM
All my Sewing Jeans resources:
thelaststitch.com/sewingjeans
Watch Jeans Zipper Fly Tutorial
youtu.be/JXPmXO73uxs
The DVF wrap dress sewing vlog
youtu.be/BhFESbTI244
And to kick off the first sewing livestream of fall 2021 I will also do a jeans quiz where the winner will get a signed copy of my book Sewing Jeans.
Giveaway rules: The first person to write the correct answer in the chat will win a signed copy of my print book Sewing Jeans
YouTube Contest Rules and Community Guidelines
http://www.youtube.com/t/community_guidelines
support.google.com/youtube/answer/1620498?hl=en
Privacy notice
YouTube is not a sponsor of the contest.
The winner breda tp provide address info via email to Johanna Lundström/The Last Stitch
The email address will be provided during the livestream
Come join and chat about sewing jeans on Sunday!
Watch video:
Master The Blind Hem: How To Perfect Invisible Sewing Machine Hemming
youtu.be/SKzEHzSgiR8
Magnifying lamp from Brightech (Amazon affiliate link)
amzn.to/31GHYK
Blind hem presser feet on Amazon (Amazon affiliate link)
amazon.com/s?k=blind+hem+presser+foot&i=arts-crafts&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&linkId=84fa28f08a3dcaf5d443c03e690f3f28&tag=thelaststit05-20
Read blog tutorial:
thelaststitch.com/invisible-blind-hem-stitch-with-a-sewing-machine
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop all my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
* Pick the right thread and needles for topstitching
* Troubleshooting, including skipped stitches
* Best presser feet
* Stitch length for topstitching
* How to adjust thread tension for balanced tension
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Watch Sew Perfect Topstitching: 8 Things You Need To Know!
youtu.be/KzbwPuUC598
Watch Sew Straight: The Tools You Need
youtube.com/watch?v=VIwgS0dva9E
🧵Tools and notions for Topstitching
(Amazon Affiliate links below, which means I might be compensated when a purchase is made)
Schmetz Topstitching Sewing Machine Needles
amzn.to/2X3wwor
Jean-A-Ma-Jig to level the presser foot
amzn.to/2Yathft
Hump-Jumper Bulky Seam Aid (to level the presser foot)
amzn.to/2A0PZyQ
Gütermann Jeans Thread Extra Strong (M782)
(I used colour 412 in the video, 968 is also great)
amzn.to/2yAI9r4
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Want to learn more beginner sewing tips? Then check out this video: youtu.be/FHIwqspbM6M
For tips on how to sew straight, watch this video: youtube.com/watch?v=VIwgS0dva9E
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
8 Best Beginner Sewing Machin Tips
1. Release the tension
You do this by lifting the presser foot. This will release the tension disks. If you skip this step, the stitching might look off
2. Pull back the thread
Always pull the needle and bobbin thread towards the back before you start sewing. This prevents the thread from getting tangled.
3. Needle in fabric
This is another effective way to prevent the threads from forming a knot. Use the handwheel to lower the needle or see if your machine has a function that does this automatically for you. Using this method also assures that the needle won’t miss the fabric on the first stitch.
4. Stitch length and width
Stitch Length
The stitch length is usually shown in mm. For a straight stitch, a length around 2.5 mm is great for seams, and for topstitching increase the length to 3 or 3.5. Remember that a longer stitch length means less durability. It also means less coverage if you are using a zigzag stitch, which can cause fraying of the fabric.
Stitch Width
On a straight stitch, the width is zero, but on a zigzag stitch and other wider stitches, you need to adjust the width too. For a regular zigzag opt for a width around 2 mm.
5. Balanced tension
The mark of a beautiful stitch is balanced tension. If the needle tension is too loose, this causes the needle thread to form loops on the reverse side.
If the needle tension is too high, you can see on the red dots of bobbin thread showing on the right side.
6. Backstitch
The threads will unravel if you don’t secure them. Start and finish the stitch with backstitching. The exception is if you are sewing on the round, such as hemming a pair of pants. Don’t start with backstitching, instead finish by overlapping the beginning and the secure with a backstitch.
7. Sew straight
If the guides on the plate are not enough, use a raised seam guide to help you sew straight. A stack of post-it notes or a piece of lego attached with blue-tac is both great options if you don’t have a machine seam guide
8. Guide the fabric
Another trick for sewing straight is to guide the fabric with your hands. Softly pinch the fabric edge with your right hand thumb and index finger and gently guide the fabric with your left hand. Never pull or force the fabric, let the rhythm of the sewing machine decide your movements.
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Watch my complete guide to hemming knits with a double needle
youtu.be/SY9PfwnME38
Stretch Knit Twin-Needles (Amazon affiliate links, meaning I get a commission off a purchase)
Schmetz Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
Organ Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
Groz-Beckert Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
Twin-Needle Knit Hemming Tips
1. Use bobbin spools
Wind 2 bobbin spools with thread and stack them if you don’t have two pins on your sewing machine. No need to buy an extra thread spool when using a twin-needle.
2. Use a stretch twin needle
When hemming knits, a stretch ballpoint needle prevents skipped stitches and holes in the fabric.
3. Check the stretch
Do a sample and pull. Does it stretch? If not decrease the stitch length. This will keep the seam from breaking too. Start with a stitch length at around 2.5 and see how it looks and performs. Remember that longer stitches equal less stretch.
4. Adjust the needle tension
To prevent tunnelling (ridges) try lowering the needle tension to make the seam flatter.
Here are 4 examples of tension settings, starting with low tension and moving up to very high.
The first one has very low needle tension. The seam is flat. but the needle thread looks loose.
The last one has a very high tension setting. Look at the pronounced tunnelling on this one.
On the reverse side, you can see the needle thread clearly on all samples apart from the one with very high tension. That’s okay, the thing that matters is if the seam has great stretch and looks good on the right side.
5. Use a walking foot
This can prevent the fabric from stretching out, which is very common when hemming knits
6. Use a stabiliaer
If you don’t have a walking foot, use a water-soluble double-sided tape or wash away stabiliser to keep the knit fabric in check when sewing.
Another option is placing stretchy fusible interfacing on the hem allowance, this prevents both tunnelling and stretched-out fabrics.
7. Thread one needle at a time to avoid tangling. Start with the needle to the right if your machine doesn’t have a thread separator.
Remember to lift the presser foot before threading to release the tension disks.
Finish by pulling the threads back to avoid them getting stuck
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Watch How To Sew Straight (Video)
youtube.com/watch?v=VIwgS0dva9E
Watch Beginner's Guide To Sewing Knits
youtube.com/watch?v=9KRMccwjNhQ
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
No pattern required!
How to Sew Your Best Leggings (video)
youtube.com/watch?v=1pJr8dsAmhc
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
Shop the Aila Leggings Sewing Pattern
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/aila-leggings
Blog Tutorial: How to Sew a Runner Belt
thelaststitch.com/sew-a-runner-belt-an-easy-diy-tutorial
Wonder-Tape Brands (Amazon affiliate links)
Prym brand Wonder-Tape: amzn.to/3qX340l
Dritz Wash-Away Wonder-Tape: amzn.to/2OzR4F4
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
You asked and I answered 🙂 Watch this video to get the answers to five of my most frequently asked questions.
Buyer's Guide To Coverstitch Machines
Video: youtu.be/QdkhSsaBpaw
Blog post: thelaststitch.com/coverstitch-machine-buyers-guide
Cone Thread Stand Organisers on Amazon
(Amazon affiliate link, meaning I earn a commission on qualifying purchases)
amazon.com/s?k=Cone+Thread+Stand+Rack+Organizer&i=arts-crafts&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&linkId=6423acab04c053cca750ae9fb8883a6f&tag=thelaststit05-20
Videos: Tips for Sewing Knits using a Sewing Machine
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78X4IOh5UASmwkDZ5lHUzyJG
Pattern Making for Beginners
youtu.be/bbhlvYjDMg8
Morplan (Seller of the now discontinued pattern rack)
morplan.com
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Coverstitch Machine Beginner's Guide
youtu.be/HCMvt9Db1ds
Guide to Stretch Fusible Interfacing for Knits
youtu.be/sDC3CW4Vhnw
Stretch Twin Needles brands (Amazon affiliate links)
Schmetz Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
Organ Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
Groz-Beckert Stretch Twin-Needle: amzn.to/3dkuKIV
Wonder-Tape Brands (Amazon affiliate links)
Prym brand Wonder-Tape: amzn.to/3qX340l
Dritz Wash-Away Wonder-Tape: amzn.to/2OzR4F4
Topics covered in the video
● Best Double (Twin) Needle for Hemming Knits
● How to Thread the Machine
● Best Machine Settings for Twin-Needle Hemming
● Best Tension Settings
● How To Sew Knits with a Twin-Needle
● Sewing Knits with A Walking Foot
● Troubleshooting
○ Skipped Stitches
○ Stretched out Fabric
○ Ridges/Tunnelling
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Videos mentioned:
How to Stabilise Shoulder Seams on Knit Tops
youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
How to Use Clear Elastic in Sewing
youtube.com/watch?v=Wtp225ADrRU
How to Hem Knits on a Sewing Machine
youtube.com/watch?v=kBr2c8VWJH4
Sew Your Best Leggings Ever
youtube.com/watch?v=1pJr8dsAmhc
Aila Leggings Sewing Pattern
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/aila-leggings
Blog post
Complete Guide to Knit Interfacing
thelaststitch.com/using-fusible-interfacing-knits
Fusible Knit Interfacing (Amazon affiliate links)
Vliseline H609 Stretch interfacing
amzn.to/2GU2N8m
Vlieseline bias stay tape
amzn.to/2v3SKMp
Pellon Stacy Easy-Knit Fusible Tricot
amzn.to/3kXKjIL
Pellon PLF36 Ultra Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
amzn.to/2PzSUpj
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Gina has worked in the garment industry for decades as a pattern maker and garment developer. She also runs an online fitting class teaching her students the Gina Renee Method on how to best fit sewing patterns and is currently hard at work finishing her book about fitting, The Fitting Book, which we will talk about as well.
Plus Gina Renee has a line of sewing patterns too!
Learn more about Gina Renee: ginareneedesigns.com
So excited to have her on to chat about fit and answer your questions.
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
🧵 Buy Clear Elastic
Dritz Clear elastic 1 cm/3/8" wide
amzn.to/2Nnbjou (Amazon Affiliate Link)
Narrow Clear Elastic 6 mm/1/4":
amzn.to/2Zt0ZOB
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
How to sew with clear elastic:
Stabilise shoulder seams
Watch my tutorial: youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
Sewing a neckline
Watch my knit hem tutorial: youtube.com/watch?v=kBr2c8VWJH4
Making gathers
Waistband on leggings
Watch my video Sew your best leggings: youtube.com/watch?v=1pJr8dsAmhc
Stabilising horizontal seams
Watch video: How to Sew A Wrap Dress
youtube.com/watch?v=BhFESbTI244
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Videos mentioned
Easy Techniques for Sewing Knits
youtube.com/watch?v=o94sIh7FQb0
Sewing and stabilising shoulder seams
youtube.com/watch?v=i40Cn3ma0bY
How to optimise your sewing workflow
youtube.com/watch?v=KUe-Px7s-fc
My Sewing Prep Routine
youtube.com/watch?v=nzSxciLjmuQ
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Time-saving tips for sewing jeans
thelaststitch.com/7-time-saving-tips-for-sewing-jeans
1 Organise the tools
2 Use labels
Freezer tape: amzn.to/2OjgPsN (Amazon Affiliate Link)
3 Pin the pieces
4 Wind 2 bobbins
5 Make samples
6 Note the settings
7 Chain piece
8 Batch sew
9 Don’t overcast
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
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My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
List of black sewing creators
sewnaturaldane.com/bhmpatterndesigners
Follow the hashtag BHMPatternDesigners
Nateida's (SewNaturalDane) channel: youtube.com/channel/UCGJwVadYo0gfzL6Dgm9rIgw
Instagram: instagram.com/sewnaturaldane
IslandSewcialists channel
youtube.com/c/IslandSewcialist
Instagram: instagram.com/IslandSewcialist
My interview with Nateida and Myra
youtu.be/oMpRv2wBI8M
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Blog post about my upcoming change:
thelaststitch.com/turning-a-new-leaf
Tour of my Sewing studio
youtube.com/watch?v=kXbjKfE_tf8
My Ikea Hack Sewing Table
youtube.com/watch?v=lYi6Xn9LNX4
Book: Fit For Real People (Amazon affiliate links)
Version I have: amzn.to/3sdYw7N
New version: amzn.to/3q4r3L2
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
Video: Guide to Woolly Nylon
youtube.com/TOlm8oGNx1c
How to Sew a Buff with a Sewing Machine:
youtu.be/jz69kDeAuFI
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
Instructions for sewing a buff with a serger flatlock seam
Suggested measurements for the buff pattern piece
Child
Width: 40 cm (15 ¾”) Height: 48 cm (19”)
Adult Small
Width: 46 cm (18”) Height: 50 cm (19 ½”)
Adult Large
Width: 50 cm (19 ½”) Height: 52 cm (20 ½”)
Cut the buff. The width should have the same direction as the most stretch on the fabric.
Cut out the rectangle. Fold the buff, wrong sides facing, right side up. Yes you heard that right, this the way fabric should be positioned when sewing a serger flatlock seam.
Set your serger on 2-thread flatlock seam. Check the serger manual for your machine to see exactly how to set this up.
Before you start sewing your flatlock seam, here are three tips for making this sitch truly flat
Position the edge of the fabric slightly away from the cutting knife.
Either increase the needle tension or decrease the looper tension. This will also help the seam lie flat when opened.
Increase the stitch length to make the seam less bulky. But don't make the stitches too far apart, as it might affect the durability of the seam.
Remember to always do a sample to test the flatlock seam really becomes flat when pulled open.
Make sure there is a 10 cm long thread tail before sewing, you’ll need this tail to secure the seam after sewing.
Stitch the buff, remember the right side of the fabric should be facing you.
Meaning that you are sewing the buff from the outside instead of the inside which is what you do with most other stitches.
Here I’m using flossy woolly nylon for better coverage and a professional finish, to learn more about this thread check out my woolly nylon video: youtube.com/TOlm8oGNx1c
The woolly nylon is a great addition, but you can of course use regular serger thread instead.
When you reach the end of the fabric, keeps sewing
Open up the flatlock seam by pulling it. On the reverse side, you’ll see these ladders. Go over the seam one more time to make sure it really lies flat.
Secure the seam on the reverse side by inserting the thread into the ladders and then finishing it off with a knot or two.
Repeat on both sides and trim the remaining thread.
The finished buff. Look how neat and great it looks, with no chafing seams, so this scarf will be so kind to your skin.
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
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Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
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Then this video is for you! It's a very honest video on what it takes to make a side hustle work. I share my best time management, focus and productivity tips, but I also address the mental hurdles that you'll likely be facing when doing this.
Including how to stay motivated, preventing burnout, and recover if do have hit the wall, trying to do it all!
I've run sewing based side gigs off and on for 12 years while maintaining a day job and this is a compilation of all the things I learned the hard way.
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Suggested measurements for the buff pattern piece
Child
Width: 40 cm (15 ¾”) Height: 48 cm (19”)
Adult Small
Width: 46 cm (18”) Height: 50 cm (19 ½”)
Adult Large
Width: 50 cm (19 ½”) Height: 52 cm (20 ½”)
To sew a buff you need a soft, lightweight and stretchy knit that is kind to the skin. Cotton, wool rayon jersey and soft breathable synthetic knits are all good options.
Opt for a knit that has at least 40 to 50% stretch across the fabric.
Ideally the fabric should not stretch as much in the opposite direction, because the seam might become stretched out and wobbly when sewn on a regular sewing machine
You can also wrap the fabric around the head and pin it where it feels good to you. Use the direction with the most stretch when testing this.
Now let’s cut the buff. The width should have the same direction as the most stretch on the fabric.
Cut out the rectangle. Fold the buff, right sides facing, wrong side up.
Set your machine on a narrow zigzag stitch, which means that you decrease the stitch width. A narrow zigzag stitch should like something like this. Do a sample to make sure it works and still has some stretch. If you feel that there are some gaping areas between the stitches, decrease the stitch length slightly.
Ideally use a stretch needle to avoid skipped stitches and holes in the fabric, but a regular universal needle can work too.
Stitch the buff to create a tube. Remember that the seam allowance is 6 mm (¼ inches) cm. Using the edge of the presser foot is a great way to make sewing straight easy when using a narrow seam allowance.
Turn the buff and you are done! No need to overcast the raw edges since knit fabric doesn’t travel.
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
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Oftentimes it goes way beyond the actual pursuit and in this video, I want to share with you in all the ways that sewing has enriched my life. Especially when life throws us curve balls (I'm talking to you 2020!)
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
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My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
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This is the same style as Bernie Sanders famous mittens that were also made from an an old sweater.
Shop Tova Mittens Pattern
shop.thelaststitch.com/collections/all-products/products/tova-mittens-sewing-pattern-pdf
Tutorial for adding lining to Mittens
thelaststitch.com/sewing-lining-on-mittens
Tutorial for how to sew a beanie hat using an old sweater:
thelaststitch.com/sew-beanie-hat-recycle-old-sweater
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Transcript instructions
Cut the cuffs off the sleeves. Try and see if they fit, you might need to make them tighter, but that’s easy and I’ll show you that in a little bit.
Place the pattern pieces on the sweater. If your sweater has a prominent knitting texture or pattern, such as a cable knit, cut the pieces as a single layer to make sure the texture ends up on the same spot on both the left and right pieces.
Place the thumb piece to back palm piece. Right sides facing, the wrong side up.
You are going along the curved line to attach the thumb to the palm.
Set your machine for a narrow zigzag stitch, which means that you reduce the width of the stitch to make it look a bit straighter, but still with some stretch.
Stitch along the curve. On very loose knits I recommend stitching two rows, to keep any loops from slipping through, which can be an issue when sewing refashioned knitted garments.
Fold the thumb piece in the middle so that the edges meet
Stitch the thumb, again using a narrow zigzag stitch. Start at the outer corner, then pivot where the thumb begins and sew all the way around, making sure that the lower layer doesn’t slip. Again I recommend reinforcing this area with a second row if using a loosely knitted sweater.
Trim the corner to round out the shape of the thumb.
Turn the thumb out. Now it’s starting to look more like a mitten.
Next step is to add the upper palm piece.
Place the back palm (with the thumb) on top of the front palm piece. Right sides facing. Make sure the thumb is folded towards the middle.
Stitch along the outer edges of the entire mitten, using a narrow zigzag stitch or a stretch seam. When you pass the thumb piece, make sure it’s folded away so that it isn’t caught in the seam. Again make sure you catch both layers when sewing, since knits like this can be slippery to sew.
Turn the mittens so that the right sides are up. Now we are almost done sewing them mittens. As I told you, it would all make sense, once we got going. Notice the corner underneath the thumb. This is the corner pivot that we did when we attached the thumb.
Now it’s time to prepare the cuffs. Try them on the wrist and see if they fit. If they are too big, pin them to mark how much to trim.
It also depends on how wide the glove part is of the mittens, the cuffs should be smaller than the opening of the mittens, but not too much.
Remove the extra width from the cuffs
Stitch the trimmed cuffs together using a narrow zigzag stitch.
Pull the cuffs over the opening, with the cut edge aligned with the edge of the glove. Right sides should be facing, with the wrong side up.
If you are using a serger for this step, try to increase the differential feed to prevent the pieces from stretching out when sewn, as this is common when working with less stable sweater knits.
Sew the cuffs to the mittens using an overlock, stretch seam or a narrow zigzag stitch. Stretch out the cuff when sewn, since it should be smaller than the opening of the glove.
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Order my latest book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Videos mentioned:
How to sew a jeans zipper
youtu.be/JXPmXO73uxs
How to master topstitching
youtu.be/KzbwPuUC598
youtube.com/K7Hk7b9CGmQ
How to sew jeans back pockets
youtu.be/GN75dvioDJ0
Five Ways to Use an Awl
youtube.com/watch?v=9cU-pCL3eBE
Links to products in the video
Note: The Amazon links below are affiliate links, meaning I get a commission on qualifying purposes.
HUMP-JUMPER
Hump-Jumper/Button tool
amzn.to/3gXHW4Z
Jean-A-Ma-Jig
amzn.to/3i3Hzaq
Bernina Height Compensation Tool (has three levels)
ebay.com/itm/Bernina-Height-Compensation-Tool-NEW-Jeans-Bulky-Seams-/253563827005
AWL
Tailor’s awl from Clover
amzn.to/3lMLGtM
Tailor’s awl from Sew-Mate
amzn.to/3i3ond4
Gûtermann’s Extra Strong (M782) colours 968 and 412
amzn.to/2yAI9r4
Topstitching needles from Schmetz/Euro-Notions
amzn.to/3p67p1w
Tutorial showing how to shorten a zipper
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-waistband-tutorial
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖Learn more and order Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Sewing Jeans will take your denim making skills to the next level with the help of clearly illustrated, step-by-step instructions and insider techniques for a professional result.
●Over 30 illustrated step-by-step jeans sewing tutorials
●Jeans pattern alterations instructions
● Guides to fabrics, notions and tools
●Stitching and seam techniques for jeans
● 192 pages
Making your own jeans doesn’t have to be hard, with the techniques shown in this book you’ll be able to sew a great looking pair of denim that are uniquely you.
My Jeans Sewing Video Tutorials:
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78W6wkdQTRXd8nfMV1HTJkFR
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 My book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖 My book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
10 Tips for Sewing Your Own Jeans
1. Increase the needle tension when using heavy thread.
2. Use regular thread in the bobbin
3. Use a presser template to shape the back pockets
4. When topstitching over bulky layers use a height level tool (hump-jumper)
5. When sewing waistbands, stitch a folding line on the inside of the waistband and press along it to ensure an even and razor-sharp fold.
6. Either baste or use water-soluble double-sided tape on the inner waistband to keep it in place when topstitching.
7 Use a presser foot with an edge guide when topstitching close to edge.
8 If you don’t have heavy topstitching thread in a colour you like, just use two spools of regular thread, and thread both strands in the needle.
9 Use the outer edge of the presser foot lip as your guide when stitching the second row of topstitching.
10 Create a reusable topstitching zipper template out of heavier card stock, so you’ll always have it ready when sewing jeans.
Download the free jeans making tool kit to get the pattern pieces mentioned in this video
thelaststitch.com/free-download-patterns-and-templates-for-sewing-jeans
Videos mentioned
How to sew a jeans zipper
youtu.be/JXPmXO73uxs
How to Sew Jeans Back Pockets
youtu.be/GN75dvioDJ0
8 Easy Tips for Sewing Perfect Topstitching
youtu.be/KzbwPuUC598
Wonder-Tape
Prym: amzn.to/3jOXeuH
Dritz: amzn.to/321YBjR
Links are Amazon affiliate links meaning I get a commission for qualifying purchases.
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
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This year has been especially challenging, partly because of the global pandemic. And partly because I worked myself into a burnout, juggling my day job with expanding my business and finishing my third book Sewing Jeans
In this video I give you an update on what's been going on for the last seven months and what steps I plan to take moving forward to avoid exhausting myself like this again.
Videos mentioned
Can my Sewing Biz Replace a 9-5 Income?
youtu.be/3ecFVZl029Q
Sewing and Mental Health
youtu.be/ItmzKn3JnWM
All my Sewing Business Videos
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78UjPqMhj1jZ_WU_CsoDKDFG
👖 My book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
👖 My book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Things mentioned in the video
Video about my first Burdastyle Waterfall Top
youtu.be/OnnjPhXpmqM
The Burdastyle blouse pattern
thelaststitch.com/burdastyle-waterfall-blouse-04-2018-119
Five ways to use an awl for sewing (video)
youtu.be/9cU-pCL3eBE
How to sew perfect machine blind hem stitching (video)
youtu.be/SKzEHzSgiR8
Burdastyle Slim Pants 04-2016-117
thelaststitch.com/burdastyle-cigarette-trousers-04-2016-117
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Download the jeans making tool kit to get your pattern pieces
thelaststitch.com/free-download-patterns-and-templates-for-sewing-jeans
👖 My book Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide
thelaststitch.com/sewing-jeans-book
Jeans Zipper Tutorial Transcript
Cut the fly facing and shield.
Interface the fly facing, then overcast the round edge.
Sew the fly shield. With right sides facing, sew the bottom seam of the shield. There is no need to stitch and turn the side seam because it adds unnecessary bulk.
Turn and press the shield. Use a point turner to create a sharp corner on the shield. After pressing the shield you overcast the open side.
Attach the facing. Place the fly facing along the crotch edge on the left front piece, wrong sides facing. Sew a straight stitch to attach the facing, approximately 10 mm (⅜") away from the edge.
Press the seam. First press the seam open. Then fold the facing under, and press over the edge to flatten the seam.
Topstitch the edge. Starting from the bottom, topstitch the facing close to the edge, around 3 mm (1/8") in.
Place the zipper on the facing. The zipper pull should face towards the
fabric and the inner zipper tape should align with the crotch edge.
Stitch the zipper. Sew a straight stitch along the edge of the outer zipper tape.
Mark the outer topstitching line. The curve should end at least 10 mm (⅜") below the zipper stop so that there's enough room for the presser foot when topstitching. Use a stitching template to make tracing easier.
Fold away the outer zipper tape edge. Lift and fold the end of the outer zipper tape so that the topstitching doesn’t catch it. Attach the fold with a few basting stitches. This is necessary for when you insert the shield later on.
Topstitch the fly front. Starting from the upper edge, sew the outer row first until you reach the lower edge.
Turn and sew the other row. When you reach the edge, with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn the piece 90 degrees. Sew along the edge for approximately 6 mm (¼"), pivot again and sew the inner row of topstitching. The entire fly topstitching should be one continuous seam.
Attach the fly shield to the zipper. Place the outer zipper tape, with the pull facing up, along the outer edge of the fly shield.
Stitch along the edge of the zipper tape. Start from the bottom. In this step the pull side of the zipper should be facing up.
Notch the right front piece. Place the left facing piece parallel to the right piece. Mark a notch on the right piece where the fly facing begins on the left piece.
Fold in the seam allowance on the right piece and press.
Attach the zipper. Place the folded edge on the zipper, with a few millimetres between the fabric edge and the coils.
Topstitch along the edge of the shield to secure the zipper. Basting will make this step easier. If the zipper tape is fairly narrow, use a zipper presser foot so that the stitching doesn't catch the coils. On a wider zipper tape, a standard presser foot can be used instead.
Fold and press the lower edge of the left crotch. This is in preparation for stitching together the front crotch.
Place the folded edge on top of the right piece. Align the edges of the seam allowances.
Topstitch the crotch seam together. Starting from the lower edge, stitch the first row and continue sewing so that the stitch overlaps the fly topstitching.
Pivot the stitch. With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn the piece 90 degrees, then sew approximately 6 mm (¼").
Turn again and stitch the inner row. Use the presser foot toe as a guide to make the stitching even. The entire crotch topstitching should be one continuous seam.
The finished crotch seam. Notice how it overlaps the zipper topstitching. But you can also extend the stitching above the lower edge of the zipper stitching.
The finished zipper. Because the lower part of the zipper is secured with two rows of stitching, bar tacks are generally not necessary. But you can always add them using the methods described in the Stitching bar tacks section.
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Video Editor: Rhis Nauyac Bayucca/Aginaya Designs
Order
1. Collar
2. Cuffs
3. Yoke
4. Sleeves
5. Front pieces
6. Back piece
7. Cool on the hanger
3 tips for great ironing
Moisture. If you don't have a steam iron spray the shirt, roll it like a bundle and let it sit for a bit
Start with the smallest areas, such as cuffs and collar and finish with the largest area, ie the front the back. This prevents the shirt from getting wrinkled again while you are ironing
Use long smooth movements to iron a shirt, with a firm hand. Don’t rub the iron back and forth, as this won’t remove the wrinkles as effectively. Also, apply the most pressure on the back of the iron. If you put pressure on the tip of the iron, you run the risk of creating those annoying ironing creases that can be hard to get rid off.
Collar
Fold up the collar. Start ironing from the reverse side, over the collar and the collar stand. Glide the iron slowly from one side to the other, press fairly firmly using long motion, don't rub back and forth.
Turn the shirt and iron from the right side to smooth out any remaining wrinkle by ironing in a downward motion.
Cuffs
Button up the cuffs and lay them flat on the iron board. Start from the inside and don’t iron over the buttons, instead of iron around them. Turn the shirt over and smooth out any remaining wrinkles.
Yoke
Place the yoke on the edge of the ironing board, with the reverse side facing up. Start from the top of the yoke and iron downwards
Sleeves
The sleeves are a bit tricky since you have to iron over two layers of fabric, which can lead to new wrinkles while you are ironing. Either use a sleeve ironing board and iron on the to round, which will also prevent the fold crease. If using a regular board, make sure both fabric layers of fabric are smoothed out before you iron over them.
Place the shirt on the board and fold the sleeve so that the crease will form from the shoulder point. If there is a permanent sleeve crease on the shirt, make sure the sleeve is folded along that crease before you start ironing.
Stretch the sleeves and smooth out both layers with your hands to prevent creases from forming.
From the reverse side, start from the top of the sleeve and iron downwards, checking that both layers are still smooth so that you don't create any new wrinkles. Press to set the folds around the cuff area. Turn the shirt over and iron away any remaining wrinkles.
Front
Start with the button placket. Before ironing stretch the area out, to make sure it lies flat. Then from the reverse side, iron around the button, not over them, since this can leave a mark on the fabric. Then move on the remaining part of the front piece. Turn and smooth out the area if needed.
Then repeat the process on the other front piece.
The back
Finish off by ironing the back. Start below the yoke, press to set the folds, and slowly iron downwards towards the hem, using smooth long movements, with a firm hand.
Place the shirt on a hanger and let it hang for at least 10 minutes, ideally more to let it dry and cool before putting it on. This will prevent it from getting wrinkled again.
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✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
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Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
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Playlist with videos showing how to use the tools mentioned:
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78W4prJpMg4mRjuToXCFBZLq
Links to products in the video
Note: The Amazon links below are affiliate links, meaning I get a commission on qualifying purchases.
HUMP-JUMPER
Hump-Jumper/Button tool
amzn.to/3gXHW4Z
Jean-A-Ma-Jig
amzn.to/3i3Hzaq
Bernina Height Compensation Tool (has three levels)
ebay.com/itm/Bernina-Height-Compensation-Tool-NEW-Jeans-Bulky-Seams-/253563827005
AWL
Tailor’s awl from Clover
amzn.to/3lMLGtM
Tailor’s awl from Sew-Mate
amzn.to/3i3ond4
Video: Five Ways to Use an Awl
youtube.com/watch?v=9cU-pCL3eBE
POINT TURNER
Dritz point Turner & Seam Creaser
amzn.to/2DxQUsf
Simplicity Bamboo Turner
amzn.to/2GsGKtP
BUTTONHOLE CUTTER
Clover Buttonhole Cutter (the one I have)
amzn.to/3i3GzmS
Video: Sewing Buttonholes: A step by step tutorial
youtube.com/watch?v=uQUczelED_8
SEAM GAUGE
Amazon (Metric)
amzn.to/3lSFWP8
Imperial versions
Dritz Measuring Gauge
amzn.to/35lvJVV
Nancy Zieman Gauge by Clover
amzn.to/31YGSd1
WONDER TAPE
Prym Wonder Tape
amzn.to/3jOXeuH
Dritz Wonder Tape (should be the same product as Prym)
amzn.to/321YBjR
BASTING PEN
SewLine Basting Pen
amzn.to/3lQOnul
Quilting bar guide/Seam ruler
amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&tag=thelaststit05-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=dbae29cc8229a93d0f894fca17ee686c&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=arts-crafts&keywords=Quilting%20bar%20guide
Watch Video: How to Sew Straight
youtube.com/watch?v=VIwgS0dva9E
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
http://www.thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
http://www.thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: http://www.thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/