Climbing Movement: 11. Hips In | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! The theory of “Hips In” relates to our “Posturing” and “Process of Movement” videos. In posturing, the act of “hips in” involves transferring weight from your hands to your feet. The only time your hips are not in, is when you are looking for your feet. Otherwise, you should almost always keep the hips in. This helps keep weight off of your hands.Most good climbers try to keep their hips into wall, depending on the particular move they are making at that specific time. When in doubt, keep your hips in. Arms are often straight, shoulders are back, and center of gravity is in towards the wall.By keeping the hips in, a climber focuses more weight on the feet. Again, this lessens the weight on your hands.Sometimes your hips will be squared and front-facing to the wall. Other times, your hips will be sideways, but still in close to the wall. This sideways hip movement is often used in conjunction with the “backstepping” and “drop knee” skills associated with steep climbing.On advanced moves, you will probably include techniques such as backstepping, drop knees, edging, and flagging, along with the use of hip transitions from centered to sideways. Please see our additional videos that describe these key concepts.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Introduction to ClimbingTechTips.com Climbing Tech Tips 2018-06-25 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! ClimbingTechTips.com (CTT) focuses on rock climbing education, competency, and community.Whether you want to learn how to rock climb in the gym… learn how to lead-climb… transition from indoor to outdoor climbing… attempt bigger mountains… ice climb this winter… even aid-climb Yosemite lines such as The Nose of El Capitan, or the Regular Route on Half Dome… CTT is here to help with your journey.CTT provides step-by-step instructional content for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers. We have created more than 250 skill-building videos, with supporting information written into the descriptions. Each CTT video (and written synopsis) focuses on a particular skill. Need-to-know information is presented in a concise way, while also tying into the larger skill sets. You can choose ad-free or ad-sponsored viewing experiences, across multiple devices and web platforms. Additional videos are added regularly.CTT videos cover the spectrum of indoor and outdoor rock climbing. Categories include: Gym Top Rope Climbing, Climbing Movement, Bouldering, Gym Lead Climbing, Fitness for Climbing, Yoga & Stretching for Climbing, Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing, Alpine Climbing & Mountaineering, Aid Climbing & Big Walls, and Ice Climbing. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Aid Climbing & Big Walls: 14. How to Pendulum While Leading | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! When leading on aid, you may find yourself at a dead-end crack, looking at a blank wall — where all rock features seem to disappear after a fixed pin, or bolt, or some other piece of fixed gear.Then, out of the corner of your eye—or on the topo map stuffed into your pocket — you spy more features well over to the side. Relief briefly settles in but you still have to know how to get there, as there is a sea of blankness separating you from success. Often times the only way to glory is via a pendulum!For the leader, completing a pendulum is relatively straightforward.Step 1: Clip the ‘pendi point’ (pendulum point) with your lead line. Be sure its is “bomber” (i.e. 100% secure) or you may get some unexpected air time!Step 2: Have your belayer slowly lower you down to a point at which you think the arc of your swing will allow you to snag the feature that you have identified as your goal. Note that it might take a few times to find the right spot. Stop earlier than later and check to see if you can make the swing, as it is easier to get lowered a wee bit more than it is to climb back up.Step 3: Once you have reached the new features, you can begin leading again.Be sure to use extended runners and/or back clean the pieces below you as you climb up the new feature (so long as each piece of gear you are setting is bomber), as this will help reduce rope drag.Please be sure to watch our next video on “How to Pendulum & Lower Out While Cleaning”.These are essential techniques to any big wall and aid climbing adventure. Be sure to practice and have a working knowledge of these systems before venturing onward.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Yoga & Stretching for Climbing: 11. Yoga & Stretching for Dynos | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this Yoga & Stretching for Climbing video, our CTT Yoga Instructor David Surber walks us through a series of yoga poses and stretches designed specifically for training your body to make explosive movements. These movements are required for sticking tougher dyno (dynamic) reach moves.Floating Yoga Pushups - Done as part of a regular routine will help train your body for explosive movement. Below are the steps for the floating yoga pushups:1. Stand at the front of your mat, feet and knees shoulder width distance apart. Fold forward at the waist and plant your hands.2. Begin to bend through the knees and place your knees on the back of your triceps.3. Float your feet back to the top of a push-up, lowering down slowly.Modification - Stand at the front of your mat, feet and knees shoulder width distance apart. Fold forward at the waist, plant your hands, and slowly float the feet back to the top of a push-up.Do this three to four times within your regular practice to see noticeable improvements on your dyno moves.Squat Lunges - Done as a as part of a regular routine will help train your body for the coiled spring like release of energy. Below are the steps for the squat lunges:1. Begin with your feet about shoulder width apart. Lower down into a squat and place your triceps inside your knees fanning your feet out just a little bit wider.2. Lift your chest and draw your shoulder blades together as you inhale.3. Exhale, then inhale as you shoot your hands towards the sky, gazing up off the fingertips.4. Exhale as you lower down slowly, keeping cognizant of your core strength.5. Repeat steps 3 and 4.Do this three to four times within your regular practice to see noticeable improvements on your dyno moves.Lion's Breath - Done as a as part of a regular routine will help the parasympathetic nervous system and clear out lactic acid from the muscles. Below are the steps for the Lion’s Breath:1. Begin at table pose, on your hands and knees. Curl the toes under, raise the hips up to the sky coming into downward facing dog.2. Take a big inhale feeling your chest cage expand all the way to the bottom of your diaphragm.3. Bend through the knees, lifting the chin up, bring the chest forward, sticking the tongue out and exhale everything out making an audible exhale sound.4. Inhale raising the hips back up to the sky, straightening through the legs, and exhale come forward sighing it all out.Do this three to four times within your regular practice to see noticeable improvements on your dyno moves.We hope you found this video helpful.Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Traditional Climbing: 19. Maximizing Space at the Anchor | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to maximize space at the anchor when all members of your climbing party have reached the top of the route. Below are a few considerations:1. Clip into the shelf - The shelf is located just above the master point, and can be used in addition to the master point to clip either yourself or any of the other climbers. This requires clipping into all three (or more) legs of the anchor system between the cam or stopper and the master point. Note: Never leave the master point vacant when using the shelf, even if it means leaving one carabiner in the master point.2. Use anchor pieces to organize gear - If you need a break from wearing your backpack or gear sling, you can hang it from one of the cams or stoppers in your anchor. Be sure that whatever you clip into does not shift from its strong, solid placement.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 21. Food & Water Considerations | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we discuss food and water options for mountaineering.People often default to dehydrated packaged meals, but they can take a very long time to rehydrate at higher elevations, and above 15,000 feet some companies say you will have to boil the meal for as long as 20 minutes. Real food goes a long way on alpine climbs, especially on longer trips. Eat as much food as you can in the mountains. Things that sound delicious to you like pizza, burgers, and lots of bacon, are often carried on bigger mountaineering expeditions.Eating a high calorie diet of food you are used to can go a long way towards making you feel and perform better. There is a wealth of information on diet, nutrition, and sports performance. The bottom line with alpine climbing is that it is often difficult to maintain proper hydration and caloric intake.Find ways to get a balanced diet, and consume adequate water in the mountains. “Pocket” foods like shot blocks and gels tend not to freeze like energy bars sometimes do—as such they work well as snacks in colder temperatures. One consideration is to try to hydrate with soup mixes, as they can also replenish some salts. And adding some butter to your soup base add fat to keep you warm.Do what you can to stay hydrated on climbs with longer stretches of technical rock. One consideration is to use use a hydration bladder. While some prefer this system, hydration bladders are also known to be plagued with problems like leaking or freezing, and they are heavy and hard to fill from a trickling alpine stream.You will cramp less when you are adequately hydrated, so find the hydration system that works for you!We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 14. Snow Anchors - Equalization | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at how to equalize snow anchors.Building snow anchors follows many of the same principles as building rock anchors. The force placed on snow anchors tends to be less than on rock. The exception to this would be haul systems for crevasse rescue. When building anchors there are many acronyms used as a checklist to make sure your anchor is relatively safe and acceptable.SRENEA is one acronym:S stands for Solid - meaning the individual components are solid and well placed. For snow this means that you have good snow and your picket or T trench points in the correct pull direction.R stands for Redundant - snow anchors are different from rock anchors in this regard. It may be necessary to back up (and make redundant) an anchor that will be used for crevasse rescue, or for climbing steep pitches of snow. However, since snow anchors are time consuming to build and the forces involved in a fall often less than on rock, we sometimes accept a non-redundant, single point anchor.E stands for Equalized - meaning if I apply a force to the master point, then force is evenly distributed among the individual components. It is important to note that equalization must be FIXED in snow anchors because if the equalization shifts, as in a sliding X, the pull will be out of alignment with the T shape of the picket (or V shape, in the case of a midclip picket), and the anchor will slice through the snow. The primary way snow anchors fail is in shear. Shear is where a sharp object slices through the snow. The second way they fail is in compression. NE stands for No Extensions - this means that, if one component fails, it will not shock load the remaining pieces in the larger system. A stands for Angle - We want to keep the vector angle as low as possible. For snow and ice anchors, we are able to minimize this angle by placing our anchors in series, if we need multiple snow pickets or T trenches to create a confidence-inspiring snow anchor.For snow anchors, one or two pieces may be adequate. For ice anchors where there may be solar melt-out, there are times where 3-4 screws are advisable—especially if people will be using the anchors for a top rope which tends to put the greatest force on the anchors due to cyclical loading.Many of these anchor concepts can be reviewed in our videos on “Building Traditional Anchors”.However, please watch our videos on individual snow anchors for a deeper understanding of alpine techniques.We hope you found this video helpful. Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 2. Crampon Selection & Use | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we discuss crampon selection and crampon use, specifically for alpine climbing and mountaineering. This video also touches on selecting crampons for ice climbing. First we will discuss the different types of crampons, and then what to consider when selecting appropriate spikes for your alpine objectives.The main differences are:- Construction: Aluminum vs. Steel- Front-Points: Horizontal vs. Vertical- Front-Points: Mono vs. Dual Point- Binding Styles: Strap-on vs. Heel lever and toe bailConsiderations for crampon selection, specifically for alpine climbing and mountaineering:1. ConstructionAluminum - These weigh less and typically only come in strap-on binding styles, which can be strapped onto approach shoes or alpine rock boots. These are ideal for routes involving softer snow travel, for small snowfields where crampons are minimally used, and for rock routes with steep snow descents. Steel - These are heavier than aluminum. However, if you will encounter longer sections of firm snow, or any ice or mixed climbing, then steel is your only option. Aluminum crampons do not perform on ice. With steel crampons, the front points make the biggest difference in modern crampons. 2. Front-Points: Horizontal vs. VerticalHorizontal - Crampons with horizontal front-points may be best for snow climbing and glacier travel, whereas...Vertical - Crampons with vertical front-points are best for alpine and water ice, as well as for mixed climbing. 3. Front-Points: Mono vs. Dual PointDual Point - Crampons with dual, vertical front-points tend to be best for water ice, especially for fat water ice in warmer temperatures, or on wet ice. Dual front points that are flat provide more surface area for travel on firm snow.Mono-point - Crampons with single front-points are best for mixed rock and ice climbing, as well as for brittle, delicate, or steep ice climbing. There are models that allow you to interchange between dual and mono points, though these models tend to be a little heavier.Be sure your crampons have plastic anti-balling plates underfoot. Crampons can accumulate snow in the spikes and frame in certain snow conditions. Most modern crampons come with anti-balling plates to help minimize this issue.Key Considerations for crampon use:1. Try and walk with your feet a little wider than shoulder-width apart. This prevents your crampon spikes from catching your pant legs, and helps you avoid tripping on your crampons’ front bail.2. For low angle terrain, engage all crampon points in the snow or ice under your feet. When traversing angled slopes, most people tend to engage only the uphill row of spikes, like you would with a ski edge. This is dangerous with crampons, because this can cause those spikes to shear out. Stamp down hard on ice and roll your ankles, so you can engage all the bottom spikes.3. This ankle-rolling on steeper terrain is called “French technique”, and was the only cramponing method in early alpinism, prior to the development of front points.4. Once the terrain becomes too steep for French technique, it is time to “front-point.” Front pointing can be very tiring on your calves, so remember to drop your heels to minimize calf strain. This also engages your secondary (lower) front points, which creates a more stable tripod on the ice. 5. Use the weight of your boot to swing into the ice, this helps your front points penetrate the ice.Practice your cramponing on a variety of terrain before venturing into the bigger mountains. We also encourage seeking professional training on cramponing skills from a certified Guide.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 20. Staying Dry and Warm | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we talk about staying dry and warm in the mountain environment. Specifically, we will address layering and eating food.Layering Clothes:As in most outdoor sports, layering for activity is essential. With alpinism, one moves from periods of high exertion (where you expend huge amounts of energy), to periods of minimal movement. Layering examples include you, leading a pitch of difficult rock or ice while wearing thin layers, as your partner belays you in the shade, wearing a thick parka. - Base layers often consist of wool or synthetic fibers. These base layers should be thin and wick moisture, as well as have properties that keep them from smelling too bad after several days of wear.- Insulation layers should be light and compressible. Synthetic puffy jackets have taken over the role that thick fleece jackets once dominated. Alpine insulating layers are best used with a hood that also fits over your helmet to maximize heat retention. - Alpine Shell layers will depend on the climate you spend time in. If you are in the northwest or a winter environment, or at high altitude in the Alaska range, then a hard shell jacket may be the way to go to ensure staying dry. That stated, many alpine climbing missions make use of high pressure systems and dry mountain conditions so a softshell layer may be the best option.In cold environments, a lightweight and packable down parka is nice to throw over all your layers for belays or early mornings and evenings when you are less active.For the lower half of your body, pants with zipper vents can be nice for hiking or skiing/skinning uphill; however, the extra bulk and weight may not be worth it for summer alpine climbing pants.For winter ice climbing, your may consider a “onesie.” Though this is not the most fashion-forward look, it does a powerful job of keeping your core warm for those extra cold days.Ingesting Food:Adequate hydration and food intake is the other major way to keep your metabolism up, and help your body stay warm. Proper hydration and food intake should begin days prior to your alpine adventure. Adequate hydration and high calorie diets will keep your metabolic rate high and your core warm. Don’t skimp on the fats! On Alaska range trips, butter and bacon can be your best friend, and keep you warm… cheese also works well!For alpine snacks, consider gels and shot blocks over bars, as bars tend to freeze in cold environments. Alcohol, though helping you feel warm for a few minutes, can expedite hypothermia by acting as a vasodilator which initially makes you feel warmer, but cools your core body temperature.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 15. Snow Anchors - Using your Ice Axe | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we take a look at anchors using an ice axe. An ice axe can be used as an effective snow anchor, in a couple different ways.Vertical Anchor - The first method involves pushing or driving the shaft down into the snow, to create a vertical anchor. The best orientation is to drive the shaft in at an angle 10 degrees back from the line perpendicular to the slope. Again, snow anchors should be angled back relative to the PERPENDICULAR line of the snow surface. 10 degrees back from vertical is wrong and dangerous. When you place a picket at too steep of an angle in the snow it will slice out.This type of anchor only works in firm snow, where you need to stomp on the head of the axe with a boot, or drive it in with a second tool. If the shaft goes into the snow too easily, this is an indication that the snow is not strong enough to hold a vertical anchor.Horizontal Anchor - If the snow is not bonded well enough to hold a vertical anchor, the ice axe can be buried as a horizontal anchor, or what is also called a “deadman,” or T trench anchor.A trench will be dug that is longer than the axe length, and the pick of the axe should be pointed straight down when placed into the trench. A double length sling works well as an attachment point, that can be girth hitched onto the middle of the shaft.Carve a small trench for the sling. This will look like a “T” which is why this is often called a “T” trench. Be careful not to make the trench for the sling too shallow or it will put an upward pull onto the Ice axe.Once the axe is placed in the trench you can backfill it with snow to increase your confidence in the anchor, but it should not be necessary if you have adequately angled the trench back a few degrees and carved out a pocket in the bottom of the trench to ensure the axe seats securely in the trench.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Climbing Movement: 16. Opposition vs. Compression | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Climbers use the forces of opposition and compression to their advantage. These forces turn seemingly impossible holds or positions into usable, climbable surfaces. Compression:Examples of using compression forces to your advantage include the action of climbing an “arete” (i.e. corner), or other features involving the squeezing or compressing of the rock. Think of an arete corner system as a thin blade, or fin, of rock. Climbing just one side of an arete might seem impossible. However, once you have hands and feet on BOTH sides of the protruding corner, this feature becomes surprisingly climbable via compression with your arms and legs. When climbing a compression route, think of holds in pairs, or having relationships. For instance, a right hand side-pull feels much better if you also have a left hand side-pull. Oftentimes a heel-hook or toe-hook is also used to help balance full-body compression forces, and to help the climber progress up the climb. Compression techniques are also used with steeper climbing, such as roof moves. Imagine a steep overhang scenario, when both hands pull downwards while using double toe-hooks in opposition. This opposition of the hands and toes (along with core strength) allows the climber to accomplish an upside down, full-body cling move. A different example for steep climbing uses the foot technique known as a “bicycle”. Both feet are placed on a single foot-hold, or perhaps two holds close together, but the key is to squeeze the two feet in opposite directions. One toe is hooking and pulling up, while the other toe is pushing down. This movement, which looks a bit like pedaling on a bicycle, gives the climber a point-of-contact that essentially acts as a hand hold!Opposition: Opposition forces are also crucial.Think of opposition climbing as pushing out equally on two surfaces. This allows climbers to climb up chimneys, off-widths, and dihedrals. An advanced consideration of this move would be a deep drop-knee. This allows the climber to sink into a balanced footwork scenario, typically with the use of “backstepping” one of the feet. With the feet both pressing outwards, the climber gains advantage and control. We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Gym Lead Climbing: 13. Stacking the Rope | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! As the lead climber prepares for the climb, the lead belayer should prepare by “flaking” the rope. This is also known as “stacking the rope”.Flaking (i.e. to flake) the rope involves starting with one end of the rope and forming a coil on the ground, threading the rope through your hands to form a single pile of rope until you reach the other end of the rope (which the lead climber ties into).Stacking the rope helps with the following:1. Prevents the rope from the potential of being stepped on. Keep it tidy!2. Identifies any abrasions, soft spots, or burrs in the rope.3. Identifies any unwanted knots or kinks. This prepares the rope to flow smoothly, for both the lead belayer and the lead climber.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Multi-Pitch Trad: 2. Belay Transitions | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at belay transitions during multi-pitch climbing. You’ll notice the theme throughout these considerations is efficiency. Time management in multi-pitch climbing is crucial when trying to make the most of daylight hours. Below are a few tips to consider for belay transitions: 1. The lead climber can notify the belayer as they near the anchor at the top of their pitch. This will allow the belayer to begin preparing to follow the climb while, of course, still ensuring a safe belay for the lead climber.2. Keep the anchor simple and streamlined to speed your transition to climbing the next pitch.3. Organize the rope when belaying from above. You can flake or stack the rope onto a nearby ledge or you can hang lap coils over your tie in rope. Keep these coils knee-length so they bow out—this helps reduce the likelihood they will snag when belay the leader on the next pitch. Neat coils of either style can be efficiently flipped over, pancake style (if stacked on a ledge), or flipped onto your belayer’s tie in (if leading in blocks, where the same person leads several pitches in a row). Note: On low-angle slabs, you might instead like to make giant lap coils, shortening each as you go to avoid the snagging problem.4. Whether swapping leads or climbing in blocks, think ahead to your next transition. Organize gear as you go, making it easily accessible for the next lead climber. Develop a system, as the follower or leader, that aids in your transitions, while still allowing swift climbing movement.Remember time is of the essence in multi-pitch climbing. Consider a 7 pitch climb, if it takes 5 minutes to transition at the top of each pitch, that is 30 minutes of the day spent on belay transitions vs climbing.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing: 15. How To Coil the Rope - Butterfly Coil | ClimbingTechTips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to coil the rope using a butterfly coil. This is a great coil for carrying the rope like a backpack and is very useful when walking down from a multi pitch climb or walking off the top of a crag after top-roping.Step 1: Line up both ends of the rope and measure two full arms lengths of slack (this may need fine tuning depending on the size of the climber and the thickness of the rope).Step 2: Drape the rope over your neck, and start to make lap coils (these types of coils go back and forth instead of in a circle like when coiling an extension cord or hose). Use the length of each arm to keep the length of each coil consistent (see video above for demonstration).Step 3: When you run out of rope, take the whole pile (or coil) of rope off your neck, letting both sides fall parallel. Holding the midpoint in your hand where your neck just was, start to wrap the slack around both sides of the coil. Start low and wrap upwards. You will close off a hole in the coil that looks like an alien head. Step 4: Several feet before you reach the end of the rope, create a bight and push it through the hole or fold in the coil (that “alien head”), where your neck was and where your hand has been holding firmly. Pull the ends of the rope through the bight on the other side, so it rests over the top of your coil and fixes the whole thing in place.Step 5: Throw the rope over your back and wrap the two tail ends around your body so that it is (relatively) comfortable and looks and feels (somewhat) like a backpack. Secure the tails around your belly using a square knot.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Gym Lead Climbing: 2. How to Clip | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Proper technique for how to clip into a quickdraw while gym lead climbing:1. Know which way the carabiner gate is facing (left or right) on the quickdraw you’re approaching. In this instance assume the gate faces right.2. Reach down with your right hand to the knot (where you’re tied in) at your waist, and take out an arm-length of rope.3. Balance rope over your middle finger and index finger, while clamping it with your ring finger and pinky.4. With the same hand, control the carabiner and clip the rope into the gate. It’s important to avoid placing your finger into the gate!If clipping in with your left hand, on a right facing gate:1. Reach down with your left hand to the knot at your waist, and take out an arm-length of rope.2. Flip the rope, capture the carabiner with your middle finger, squeeze the rope with your index finger and thumb, and maneuver the rope into the gate. Again, avoid placing your finger in the gate.See above video for demonstration of clipping in with both the right and left hands.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Multi-Pitch Trad: 12. Retreating from a Route | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! What happens if you run out of time, take too long, or if unexpected weather rolls in while you are mid route? In this video, we consider the importance of retreating from a route. It’s important to know that not all multi-pitch routes allow you to retreat mid-route or rappel the route. When starting your multi pitch climbing career, consider how “committing” your route is, and if you have the required skills to get up and off it in time.1. Start with routes that will allow you to retreat, rather than require you to top out. That way, if your time plan was inaccurate or weather comes in unexpectedly, it’s a relatively straightforward descent off the climb.2. Determine a turnaround time. This should be based on:- Weather- Technical ability- Fitness- Fatigue- Experience with long days and adversity- How much daylight hours remain or when you want to returnWe hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Multi-Pitch Trad: 16. Weather | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In climbing, weather can be one of the most important factors, affecting enjoyment at best—and safety at worst. Monitor the weather for several days before your climb, or even better, get in the habit of familiarizing yourself with your favorite area’s weather patterns, checking forecasts and reports daily, so you’re constantly in tune with the conditions and trends.The typical pattern that signifies a developing storm is from wispy cirrus clouds, to various forms of stratus clouds, then various types of cumulus clouds. The take away here is to look for cirrus clouds as a potential telltale sign of something else to follow.For checking online weather resources within the United States, we recommend using www.weather.gov. This is set up by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), and this website includes hourly weather graph, wind directions, and precipitation potential.We hope you found this video helpful. Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Yoga & Stretching for Climbing: 13. Yoga for Stemming | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this Yoga & Stretching for Climbing video, our CTT Yoga Instructor David Surber walks us through a series of yoga poses designed specifically for improving flexibility in the hips and groin, as needed for stemming moves.Figure Four Pose - Done before and/or after stem climbing, helps protect and strengthen the hip joints. Below are the steps for the Figure Four pose:1. Lift your right foot and place it inside of your left knee, or above your left knee on the thigh.2. Draw your hands to heart center and begin to bend through the left leg.3. Keeping your chest as vertical as possible drawing the shoulder blades together and lifting through the chin. Tip - You’ll feel it in your right hip if done correctly.Side Splits - Done before and/or after stem climbing helps protect and strengthen the hip joints. Below are the steps for Side Splits:1. Start sideways on your yoga mat in the middle, and walk your feet out to the sides.2. Put your hands on your hips and draw your shoulder blades together and lift your chin.3. Exhale and slowly fold forward at the waist reaching out between your legs and planting your hands on the ground. For added challenge walk your feet further out, keeping the feet parallel to the short edges of the mat. Hold here for 30 seconds to a minute then relax. Standing Wall Shoulder Stretch - Done before and/or after stem climbing helps to open up through the shoulders for those palm to foot maneuvers and back steps found in dihedral and stem moves. Below are the steps for the Standing Wall Shoulder Stretch:1. Facing the wall, lift your hand up to shoulder height and place it against the wall, with your finger facing away from your chest.2. Take a quarter turn step opposite your foot, then begin to walk your feet around further until you feel a nice stretch through the back of your shoulder.We hope you found this video helpful. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 18. Selecting Ice Axes & Ice Tools | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Here we depict different styles of ice axes and “ice tools”. Selection factors include specific climbing objectives, and the conditions one plans to encounter while in the mountains.Main factors to consider when selecting ice axes or ice tools include:- Conditions- Firmness of the snow- Severity of the climbLet’s start by looking at ice axes suitable for softer snow, and less steep terrain -1. Classic Mountaineering Ice Axe:- Includes a large head, with an adze and large pick- Includes a longer shaft- The shaft features a spiked bottom end, suitable for deeply penetrating soft snow- This is an old-school classic, good for general mountaineering or perhaps ski mountaineering2. Modern Mountaineering Ice Axe - Long Length:- Features a lighter weight aluminum shaft- Still long enough for powdery snow or lighter snow conditions - Large adze for chopping steps, chopping ice, or generally shoveling snow out of the way- Also good for softer snow travel3. Modern Mountaineering Ice Axe - Medium Length:- The all-arounder- This medium length has the benefits of a modern ice axe, in a tidier package- This axe is effective if uncertain which conditions might be encountered during general mountaineering- Shorter people appreciate this medium length- Lighter weight aluminum shaft than the old-school classic mountaineering axes- Still long enough for powdery snow or lighter snow conditions - Large adze for chopping steps, chopping ice, or generally shoveling snow out of the way- Good for softer snow travelNow let’s look at technical ice axes, which are typically called “ice tools”. These weapons of choice are best suited for harder snow, waterfall ice, and steeper terrain -4. Hybrid Tools:- This is a mix between a traditional mountaineering axe, and an ice climbing tool- Similar to ice tools, the hybrid often has a hammer on one end, instead of an adze- The hammer is for pounding in pitons or snow pickets, and knocking away snow pillars- A hammer style ice tool is often safer than an ice tool with an adze, in case the ice tool inadvertently pops out of the ice towards your face. Either way would hurt your face, but a shiner bruise is better than a giant skin flap! - Great for several conditions, from snow climbing to vertical waterfall ice5. Technical ice climbing tools:- Typically reserved for vertical waterfall ice climbing, or “mixed” climbing (i.e. rock and ice)- Shorter than a traditional mountaineering axe- Features a curved shaft- Provides grip rests at the middle and/or bottom of the shaft for ice climbing “leashless”- Reverse curve pick for improved ice penetration and grip- Here we showcase the Black Diamond Cobra ice climbing tool. This has become a preferred ice tool for over 10 years. The BD Cobra ice tool combines a smooth and streamlined shape, plus an ideal balance and swing, in a handsome carbon fiber packageLooking across the spectrum of ice axes and ice tools, you will notice most (if not all) axes and tools no longer have leashes or wrist loops. During long mountain travel, an ice axe is often transferred between hands, depending on the directions a climber travels up the slope. A leash makes it slower or harder to transfer the ice axe between hands. This process of unstrapping and transferring the leash wastes valuable energy.However, in the case of multi-pitch ice climbing, it can be a good idea to use a tether such as the spinner leash from Black Diamond for your ice tools. This device connects to your harness, and individually clips in to your ice tools. This is great for keeping your tools from being dropped, but they are NOT suitable for anchor or belaying purposes.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Gym Lead Climbing: 8. Danger Zones | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! “Danger Zones” a lead climber should consider when climbing:1. The first three quickdraw clips are often the most dangerous section of the climb because of ground fall potential.2. Identify crux moves as early as possible, so you are clipping from a better position or safer stance.3. Know when to clip above your head to minimize risk by reducing fall potential. For example, clipping above your head before a crux move.The main “danger zone” consideration for the belayer:1. The belayer should always stand close to the wall so that, should the leader fall, the belayer is pulled up (and not into) the wall surface. While belaying close to the wall, also try to stand near the first quickdraw, to eliminate awkward angles of pull. The rope should flow up to the leader at a natural (minimal) angle, versus a severe angle away from the first quickdraw to the belayer.We hope you found this video helpful. Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 10. Descending on Snow | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at descent techniques on snow. Investing time to become comfortable and efficient while descending snow helps you become faster on big mountain routes. People who ski or snowboard are likely familiar with a key component of the technique: keeping a confident, athletic position, which feels as if you’re leaning slightly downhill.There are 3 methods that we will discuss in this video for descending snow:1. Plunge Step2. Side Step3. Front PointingThe decision of which step to use while descending on snow will depend on 3 factors:1. Firmness of the snow2. Steepness of the snow3. Consequence or runout below the section you are descendingAny of these steps can be applied whether or not you are wearing crampons.Plunge Step – If the snow is soft, the plunge step is often the fastest way to descend a slope—unless of course you are on skis or a snowboard.The body position:1. The hips and shoulders are facing square down the fall line.2. The knees are bent, and your nose is over your toes.3. The heel is the first part of the boot that makes contact with the snow.4. The ice axe is best held in the “self arrest” grip (pick backwards), out to the side of the body. For more on this see our video on “Ice Axe Positions”.For the plunge step, commit downhill, with your body weight forward, hands forward, leg straight but not bent, and toes up. As we say: “put your nose over your toes, and your toes to the sky.” Let your body weight do the work, instead of stomping downhill and wasting energy. As you drop onto your downhill heel, the rigid shank in your boot will help slice into the snow and create a platform.Staying loose and confident allows you to be more balanced and reactive to variable snow conditions. When folks are timid and less aggressive with the plunge, they tend to lean back—but this makes it harder to slice a platform with your heel, and invariably the climber will slip. If you slip or trip forward it is, counterintuitively, often easier to recover on your feet. If you slip backwards, you’ll likely end up needing to self arrest. And hopefully the snow is soft enough for you to arrest your fall.As noted above in point #4, the “self arrest grip” for the plunge step is with one hand on the axe and the pick facing backwards. This facilitates fast transition into self arrest. If you carry the axe with the pick forward, you would then have to change your grip position if you trip and fall. Self arrest grip eliminates this maneuver, allowing you to drop immediately into self arrest. This pick backwards position is a more conservative way to travel, as compared to pick forward. Pick forward facilitates travel on a dry glacier (no snow, blue ice), where you might tilt your pick forward to bump up and over brief, steep sections of glacial ice.Side Step – The side step is less efficient than the plunge step, but it is often more secure. The side step is a sort of sideways shuffle down the slope.The body position:1. The hips and shoulders are facing sideways, perpendicular to the fall line.2. The knees are bent, and your nose is over your toes.3. The uphill edge of your boot should slice like a knife into the snow.4. The ice axe is in the uphill hand, and usually in the the one-handed, pick backwards (i.e. self arrest) position.Move your lower foot down the slope and then bring the uphill foot down to meet it before moving your axe. The ice axe should be firmly planted while moving your feet. It is important not to cross your legs while doing the sideways step: this is an easy way to tangle your crampons up in your pants or catch something and trip.Front Pointing – The front pointing method is the most secure but also a slower way of descending snow. This may be most efficient in steeper terrain, or on firmer snow where the plunge step or side step would be insecure or even dangerous.Let’s clarify the use of the term “efficiency” here. Previously it implied that efficiency always means fast, and that’s definitely not the case. Efficient means making consistent, safe progress. For example, the front point technique may be slower than the plunge step, but the most efficient in certain cases because the plunge step would be dangerous/reckless, result in a slip/fall and possibly injury—and that is definitely less efficient in the big picture.Body position for Front Pointing:1. The hips and shoulders face uphill.2. The legs are straight, body vertical3. The front of the boot is kicked into the snow.4. The ice axe is in the uphill hand. You may use a pick-forward grip (such as the dagger grip, see video) if the terrain is very steep....Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for the full written synopsis of this video, along with related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Aid Climbing & Big Walls: 13. Leading Steep Terrain | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Aid climbing poses a very different set of challenges to the follower when compared with traditional free climbing. In this video we discuss some key considerations for the leader in steep terrain, so they don’t make cleaning even more difficult for the follower.When leading steep pitches, it can be tempting to make big high steps, long moves, or to back clean gear (remove the piece below you). This makes it difficult for the follower as every time they remove a piece, they will swing out to hang, plumb line, or may have trouble removing a piece because their rope is tensioning it. On traversing pitches, it is more difficult to make reaches, however cleaning is also very difficult. Check out our video on “How to Pendulum & Lower Out While Cleaning” for more on cleaning traversing pitches. The important thing for the leader to keep in mind in both of these situations is not to back clean as aggressively as you might do on a vertical or slabby pitch.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Sport Climbing: 11. Effective Resting on Routes | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the importance of resting on routes. While on a long route, it is important to: - Look for large holds or stances where you can relax your body, and catch a rest. - Use straight-arm techniques to hang on your skeletal system, as opposed to pulling with your muscles.- Rely more on footwork and body positioning.- Relax your grip on holds whenever possible.- Reposition your body, and if possible shake out your individual hands, arms, or feet (wherever your body seems pumped or tight / cramped).Once you feel your energy starting to return, continue climbing but try to stay relaxed. Try breathing through each move. While technical elements such as rope work and body positioning are important, good climbers often rely on subtle footwork and proper breathing to overcome cruxes. You should find yourself combining these techniques with little rests, before committing to big moves or crux situations.Resting on routes can help you remain calm and relaxed during a climb, which leads to mental clarity. When you become too tense, the mental stress can be just as bad as the physical fatigue!We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Gym Top Rope Climbing: 6. Partner Inspections | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review partner inspections, which occurs after the climber has tied into the rope and the belayer has clipped the rope into the belay device.The belayer will check the climber to make sure that:1. Harness is properly above the waist2. Harness is two fingers tight3. Harness is properly double backed4. Rope is properly through the 2 hardpoints5. There are 5 sets of two’s in the figure-eight knot, and at least 2 fists of tail.Next the climber will check the belayer to make sure that:1. Harness is properly above the waist2. Harness is two fingers tight3. Harness is properly double backed4. Carabiner is properly through the belay loop and locked5. Rope is through the belay device and the carabiner, and device is oriented properly.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Gym Lead Climbing: 9. Lead Falling | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Falling while on lead happens, and it’s okay! It means you are pushing yourself, and learning.Here are a few considerations when falling while on lead:1. Be aware of your last draw. This determines direction of swing, and how far your fall will take you.2. Know where the rope is, in conjunction with your feet. Try to keep your feet from getting tangled in the belay rope.3. Body position. This allows you to anticipate your landing, as your body swings back into the wall.4. Use your eyes. When you’re about to fall (or actually falling), make sure to look in the direction of the fall and analyze where you might land on the wall.5. Always keep your hands and feet out for protection, ready to gracefully come into contact with the wall. Try to use your hands/arms and feet/legs as spring-like shock absorbers.6. Stay relatively loose and nimble. Climbers who fear falling (and swing into the wall like a clenched wrecking ball) are the ones who most often hurt themselves!6. Practice falling. Find a belayer who owes you a favor, and then find a relatively vertical wall. Practice taking incrementally further falls. But start small! 7. If your ego dictates you must take a huge whipper, make sure you practice on an overhanging climb that allows you to cleanly fall into open air.Considerations for the belayer:1. Position of the lead climber relative to the last draw. Factors include which way they might fall, if they might fall into the belayer, and/or tangle their feet in the rope.2. Whether to initiate the belay stance (or eventually move) from the right or the left of the quickdraw. This helps prevent the leader from running their feet through the rope, as they progress past the first quickdraw and further into the lead climb.3. Minimize distance of fall by taking in slack and arresting the rope, should the climber provide verbal communication of the fall beforehand.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 16. Gear Considerations | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at gear for mountaineering and alpine climbing. Alpinism has become synonymous with concepts like “fast and light,” minimalism, and “speed is safety,” and conjures up images of small teams moving quickly in the mountains. With this in mind, the guiding philosophies for our gear considerations video will be lightweight, self-sufficient systems, and items that have multiple uses.Alpine climbs range from backcountry rock climbs in a mountain environment, to full-value winter expeditions that involve huge glaciers, multiple camps, and steep technical snow, rock, and ice. Due to the huge variety in types of trips, your “alpine kit” will really depend on six main factors:1. Time of year2. Length of the trip3. Technical nature or goals of the trip4. Terrain (Snow, Rock, Ice)5. Mode of travel on the approach (Hike, Ski, Snowshoe)6. Most current weather forecastAlpine Pack: The ideal alpine backpack depends on the length of trip. For the majority of alpine missions, most parties spend 1 to 3 nights, so our pack considerations will reflect this trip length. – An alpine pack should allow you to carry all your overnight equipment, and shrink down for you to carry on climbing days that involve technical movement. It is rare to carry a separate summit pack, just to wear on the climb.– Alpine packs range between 35L bags (for summer time single night missions) to 65L bags (which can hold food and supplies for a multi-day OR winter climb).– There are many alpine-specific packs on the market. You want to look for a light pack with minimal bells and whistles that has as low a pack-weight as possible. – Standard features include pack systems that allow ice tools/axes to be securely stowed on the outside of the pack, as well as a small zippered pocket that is accessible from the outside to access essentials. – Look for compression straps and removable top lids that allow a streamlined version of the pack to be used while climbing. One nice component is the removable back pad that can be used as part of your sleeping system. And if you climb at altitude or in the winter, consider buckles and zippers that are easy to use with gloves.– The pack should be constructed of materials that are both lightweight and durable enough to handle technical climbing, and still carry the weight comfortably.Lightweight Trekking Poles: These can be worth their weight for approaches involving trails or snow, however they are not very useful in talus fields or places where you need your hands for travel.– We love ultralight fiberglass trekking poles that collapse to a fraction of the extended length, so we can attach them to our pack while climbing without sticking out. Snow baskets are much better for travel in winter snow.Alpine Rack: This should include..Small assortment of nuts/stoppersSingle set of camming devices (Note: In the wintertime you may rely less on cams as they are heavier, and don’t provide protection in icy cracks)You may also include the items below, which are unique items that would be considered based on the route you will climb, and are featured in our other CTT videos.PitonsIce screwsPickets (For snow protection)Important Note for Snow Anchors:In some videos, we show a guide placing a snow picket. In those instances, he might have placed it vertically on the steep snow. This is now considered INCORRECT and potentially dangerous. It should be 10 degrees back from PERPENDICULAR with the snow surface. Additionally, the top-clipped picket is rapidly falling out of favor, with the Yates MidClip picket as the better replacement. The Yates MidClip has a cable, and has revolutionized snow anchors.Clothing Layers: We will cover these in depth in the our Alpine videos on “Clothing Considerations” and “How to Stay Warm and Dry” will also vary by season.– Headwear, always bring a warm hat or buff that fits under your helmet and gloves. – Upper body, include a base layer, a puffy insulating layer, and a lightweight rain/wind shell. – Lower body layers include a long underwear base layer, and a pair of soft shell pants. Unless there is rain in the forecast, you can leave behind the rain pants. Gaiters are also usually left at home unless post holing in deep powder snow, and most alpine climbing soft-shell pants can be rigged to cinch around the bottoms of your boots to avoid needing gaiters.Alpine Boots: These depend on the season as well as the terrain, but have a nice pair of boots that climb rock well and work with crampons. For summer time alpinism there are excellent approach shoes on the market that can do the job as a lighter alpine boot....Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for the full written synopsis of this video, along with related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing: 7. Top Rope Anchor - Using a Cordelette | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to create an outdoor top-rope anchor using a cordelette. To create this type of top rope anchor you’ll need:1 - Cordelette, 6 to 8 millimeters in length2 - Non-locking carabinersAND1 - Locking carabiner -and- 1 non-locking carabiner OR 2 - non locking carabinersOR2 - locking carabiners for the Master PointStep 1 - Clip a non-locking carabiner into each bolt (one carabiner for each bolt).Step 2 - Clip cordelette into each non-locking carabiner. Step 3 - Pull the strands down to isolate the two legs of the anchor (if you see a triangle of cordelette, you are not properly equalized). If the cordelette is too long, you can double it up to keep the Master Point higher. If you decide to double it up, make sure all strands get tied off in your Master Point, and that your system is both equalized and redundant when you tie the knot.Step 4 - Pull the cordelette in the direction of the climber until it is equalized (See video Top Rope Anchor Safety Considerations - SRENE for more on anchors). Pinch the two sides of the rope together and tie a figure-eight-on-a-bight to create the Master Point.Step 5 - Clip a locking and non-locking carabiner, opposite and opposed, into the Master Point. You can also use two non-locking or two locking carabiners.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 28. Rappelling with Crampons & Ice Tools | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we discuss rappelling with crampons and ice tools. - When rappelling with crampons and ice tools, make sure your feet are out in front of you and your ice tools are out of the way to avoid getting tangled with the rope.- Try to make precise and deliberate steps to avoid the crampon points touching the rope.- For stowing ice tools, we recommend using ice clippers on your harness. Clip the head of the ice tools into an ice clipper (or onto a carabiner if you don’t have ice clippers). Make sure the picks are pointed backwards, so they don’t stab anything important.- It is best to use a “third hand backup” any time you are rappelling, but especially when you are dealing with lots of equipment clipped to you, as well as potentially icy ropes. - Consider extending your rappel set-up in alpine terrain, since it keeps the device away from layers and allows for a more reliable placement of a backup hitch.Proper rappel technique is covered in our videos on “Cleaning a Top Rope Anchor & Rappelling with a Back-Up” and “Retreating from a Route”. Please review those videos before graduating to any of these advanced techniques.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Sport Climbing: 7. Soft Catches | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review “soft catches,” a belaying technique which gently catches a lead fall. Sport climbing allows climbers to test the limits of their abilities, and minimize the dangers of falling, via the use of bolts as protection. Falling can be a part of climbing—and as saying goes, “If you're not falling, you are not trying.” At times, falls can be abrupt and jarring to both the climber and belayer. To limit the shock of a fall, we can use a technique dubbed the “soft catch.” If the belayer anticipates a fall, they can be ready with bent legs and a relaxed stance. As the rope goes taut during the fall, the belayer jumps up to absorb the force. A belayer who is much larger than the climber will have to jump up more than a belayer who is much smaller than the climber. The belayer will often end up also hanging in mid air. This technique is especially useful when a falling climber might get slammed back into the rock with a swinging fall. With more slack in the system, the lead climber will fall a bit further, but hopefully won't swing hard back into the cliff. Be sure to look for potential dangers such as ledges, protrusions, or ground fall potential as the soft catch does result in longer falls. Please see our other video on proper falling technique. We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Traditional Climbing: 11. Building Traditional Anchors - Part 1 of 2 | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the fundamentals of building a traditional anchor system. You’ll notice we revisit the acronym of S.E.R.E.N.E. However this time we have added an extra “E”, which will be covered in the next video “Building Trad Anchors - S.E.R.E.N.E.”For now, let’s start from the top:Solid - Similar to sport climbing, we want to make sure the rock where we are building the anchor is solid and strong.However, in contrast to sport climbing which use bolted anchors, traditional anchors can be created using a mix of passive and active protection. A “stopper” (or “nut”) is considered passive protection, because it slots into a constriction. Cams (spring-loaded camming devices) are an example of active protection, because they have springs that hold them in place.Traditional anchors should have at least three protection points—ideally a mix of cams and stoppers. Equalized -Using a cordelette or double length sling, clip into each of the protection points, and pull down on the parts of cordelette between each protection point (in the direction of pull). Then tie a figure eight or overhand knot to create the equalized master point.Once you’ve created the master point, pull down on the system to make sure that each leg of the anchor shares the load of the climber equally.Also check to make sure the angle of your anchor is under 90 degrees. The wider the angle, the more force that is applied to each of the individual protection points. At 120 degrees, the force of a fall is doubled on each of the pieces.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Sport Climbing: 2. Clipping Considerations for the Leader | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review clipping considerations for the leader while sport climbing. There are two main actions when clipping on lead: 1. Clipping the quickdraw to the bolt with the top carabiner Clip the top carabiner of the quickdraw to the bolt such that the spines of both carabiners are on the same side as the climber will be climbing past it. That is, if you will move up and left after clipping the bolt, the spines of the carabiners should also be on the left side. This helps ensure the rope doesn’t unclip from the carabiner in the event of a fall. 2. Clip the rope into the lower carabiner of the quickdrawIMPORTANT NOTE: The rope must run through the lower carabiner such that the climber’s strand ends up on top, coming out from the wall to the climber—and the strand going back to the belayer is behind, or on the side of the rock.There are two main clipping techniques: Style 1. Pinch the rope between your thumb pointer finger. Place your middle finger in the lower carabiner to stabilize it. Press down with the middle finger while rolling the rope through the gate.Style 2. Hold the rope between your thumb and index finger. Grab the spine of the carabiner with your whole hand, and make a fist. Use your thumb to push the rope into the carabiner. There are many nuances, so watch our athletes to pick up some of their own personal styles. Then, practice at home to figure out how to make it feel right for you, and hard-wire the mechanics so you don’t have to think about it on lead.Be sure to practice with both left and right hands, and with the gates facing both left and right, for a total of four possible clipping positions. Clipping efficiency for speed, endurance and safety: In traditional and ice climbing, leaders often try to clip when the draw is between their waist and chest. This is more physically efficient, as you don’t have to pull rope as far—but it can also be safer because you’re not pulling as much slack out. If you’re close enough to the ground and you pull a lot of slack, then miss the clip and fall, you could potentially hit the ground.Some routes, however, have obvious clipping holds or stances which may require you to pull out slack and clip above your head. This may be most efficient at times, so you can move fluidly through a crux sequence and reach your next clipping stance or hold. Routes that were put up using a “ground up” method rather than being bolted on rappel will often have relatively obvious clipping stances. See if you can spot these and use them. Some climbers today might be smaller than the first ascensionist, so feel free to curse the tall person who drilled that bolt you can’t reach, and then thank them for taking the hours and spending the cash to put up those bolts at all. Blessing and a curse! A couple of dangerous situations to avoid are “Back Clipping” and “Z-Clipping”. For more on these, see our video’s on “Avoid Back Clipping” and Avoid Z-Clipping”.We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing: 8. Top Rope Anchor - The -Sliding X- | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to be created at the top of the route. There are several anchor systems to choose from. In this video, we review the “Sliding X.” This is an anchor which has gone in and out of style through the years, and has some pitfalls. It is not our most recommended anchor style, but we discuss it here so that you are familiar with if, how, and when to use it.The main benefit of the Sliding X is that it can automatically adjust the equalization point; therefore, it can be a good choice for a wandering climb, where the climber will traverse while climbing to the anchor.2 - Pre-existing bolts and hangers2 - Double-length slings2 - Non-locking carabinersAND1 - Locking carabiner -and- 1 non-locking carabiner OR 2 - non locking carabinersOR2 - locking carabiners for the Master PointStep 1 - Clip the 2 non-locking carabiners into the bolted anchor points (one carabiner for each bolt hanger).Step 2 - Clip two double length slings (for redundancy) into each carabiner, and pull in the direction of the climber.Step 3 - Holding each “half” of the double length sling in one hand, which means you’ll have two strands in each hand, flip one to create a loop. This marks the X of the Sliding X.Step 4 - Clip all four strands with two opposite and opposed carabiners. The carabiners should slide smoothly from side to side as the slings adjust the equalization point. NOTE: At no point should the Master Point (which is less defined in this anchor, but is where the opposite and opposed carabiners rest) drop down and shock load either piece of the anchor. This is possible with the Sliding X if one of the bolts were to fail (and violates SRENE, see video). For this reason, we use two double length slings so we are very confident in the strength of the slings, and two unquestionably solid bolts. We hope you found this video helpful. Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 13. Snow Anchors - Creating a Ballard | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we build a snow bollard. This is a type of snow anchor that can be used for rappelling when you have no other anchor options. They are also great because you simply use the snow and your rope, and leave nothing behind.Bollards can be time consuming to build and finicky to perfect. For this reason we often prefer to rappel off a tree, chockstone, or horn, and might even consider leaving some rock gear behind.A bollard takes the form of a teardrop, and the size is dependant on the firmness of the snow. The softer the snow, the bigger the bollard needs to be. Be sure the rope’s tension is spread out across enough snow so it doesn’t cut through and fail.It is important to carve an incut lip into the bollard to avoid the rope slipping off the top. Loose, unconsolidated, or faceted snow is usually too weak for a bollard.When multiple people are rapping off, it is wise to back up the bollard with a secondary anchor, perhaps having the heavier partner go first, and letting the last person clean the backup anchor, once the bollard has already been tested. Be sure the backup anchor connection to the bollard is slack, so you have all the weight on the bollard for a sufficient safety test. This bit of slack from the back-up is a critical step when testing a questionable anchor such as a bollard. If the load is shared at all with the backup, you are not adequately testing the anchor.Include your knowledge of bollards with your understanding of other snow anchors, as shown in our ClimbingtechTips.com alpine videos.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Yoga & Stretching for Climbing: 4. Beginner Sun Salutation B | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this Yoga & Stretching for Climbing video, our CTT Yoga Instructor Ashley Fay walks us through a Beginner Sun Salutation B series.1. Extended Mountain - Feet planted, core strong, gaze up.2. Forward Fold - Hinge at hips, bend knees as needed to get hands to floor, block, or shins.3. Halfway Lift - Pull shoulder up and back.4. Forward Fold - Hinge at hips, bend knees as needed to get hands to floor, block, or shins.5. High Plank - Slowly lower to the ground.6. Cobra - Inhale, hold for 5 seconds then exhale as you lower back to the mat.7. Downward Facing Dog - Straight back, hips pointed to the sky. Inhale right leg lifts and exhale through to arms.8. Low Lunge - Knee directly above your ankle, rotate back foot so it’s parallel to side of the mat.9. Warrior 2 - Spiral arms up into pose, hips and shoulders square with the front of mat, maintain low lunge and gaze forward.10. Extended Side Angle - Open through the side body, breathing deeply.11. High Plank → Vinyasa - lower halfway (elbows close to body) and updog toes pressed into the mat and heart lifted high.12. Downward Facing Dog - Straight back, hips pointed to the sky. Repeat 7-11 on other side (left side). We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts! Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Aid Climbing & Big Walls: 18. Offset Placements - Offset Cams | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! A set of offset cams can be an essential part of your aid climbing rack. They have two lobes of one size cam, and two lobes of the next size up or down (i.e. larger or smaller). Offset Cams allow you to place a solid cam in a flared crack, which is impossible with a traditional cam. In this video, we look at the benefits of offset cams. Flared cracks can occur naturally, but they are particularly common on old aid routes and big walls where pitons were once commonly used. Removing pitons scars the rock in a way that creates pods and flares splitter cracks.The offset design provides improved protection and strength because of the increased surface area in contact with the rock, and because each lobe is now cammed within its appropriate range.The inner part of the crack is thinner, so the smaller lobes will fit deeper in the crack, and the larger lobes will then fit appropriately in the wider, or flared, section of the crack or pod.For proper cam placement technique and considerations, see our videos on “Cam Placements - Hand Sized Cams & Small Cams”.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Sport Climbing: 10. Successful Projecting | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the definition of, and considerations for, successful projecting.On-sighting a route is one of the most gratifying achievements of rock climbing. This is when a climber “sends” a route on their first try, without any “beta” or information about the route. This can be a challenge and even the best climbers have a hard time sending routes their first time. Projecting routes, or projecting, is when a climber works a climb of a higher difficulty grade (i.e. 5.11) than their onsight skill level (i.e. 5.10), in an effort to break into the next level of their climbing.If the climber fails their onsight attempt, they may continue to work the route as many times as necessary to send it. Below are a few considerations for successful projecting:1. Break the route down into individual pieces, sections, bouldery cruxes, or even individual moves. 2. Try to hang a top rope on the route and suss out the movement and the cruxes. 3. At especially hard sequences or moves, try clipping in directly to bolts with a draw (while still on belay—this helps reduce strain on your belayer) and visually explore your options. 4. After a fall, take a good rest. Hang, shake out, and relax. Get your head back in the game, place your feet and hands on the wall, and yell “Climbing!” to your belayer so they know to give you slack and let you climb again. 5. After a fall, the leader will need to ascend back to their last position or bolt in order to try again. If the route is not too steep, they can climb back up or bat man up the rope. If it is fully overhanging and the climber is hanging in mid-air, they will need to “boink” into position. - Batmanning is where the climber grabs the belay strand of the rope and pulls down while the belayer counterweights the rope and takes in slack, thus making the climber ascend. For this method, the climber must be able to reach the belay strand—that is, the rope that runs through the last quickdraw and back to the belayer. - When the climber is on such a steep route that they end up hanging in mid air after falling, they can use the “boinking” technique. This is where the climber grabs the rope at arm’s length from their tie-in, does a pull up and then lets go. The belayer is also weighting the rope, such that in an instant of weightlessness, their weight takes in some slack. Several repetitions and the climber will be within reach of the wall again! 6. Get the route wired and dialed so you know the moves, hard sections, rests, stances, and clipping positions. When you feel you know the route well, and can climb the individual sections, try linking larger parts of the climb—and eventually the whole thing! 7. When you have the route dialed, go for the send. If you fail, take a long rest, 30 min to an hour. Rest, stretch, meditate—whatever it takes to get ready for your next attempt. 8. A positive mental attitude goes a long way! If you are having problems with a certain move or sequence, keep your internal dialogue positive and open-minded. 9. Approach each attempt as a learning opportunity. Sometimes all it takes is a slight change of foot, hand, or body positioning. 10. Focus on mindful breathing. Even exaggerated breathing can help force you into a rhythmic pattern.11. If you’re stuck, maybe try something out of the ordinary. Keep an open mind and let the rock speak to you. 12. When in doubt…give it your all: scream, yell, grunt—whatever it takes! Vocalizations can even help engage your core muscles.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Multi-Pitch Trad: 17. Swapping Leads vs. Leading in Blocks | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the reasons you might choose to swap leads or lead in blocks.Swapping Leads: Also known as swinging leads. This is where the climbing team alternates leading each pitch.- You might assign odd or even numbered pitches to each teammate based on which climber wants to lead the first pitch, or the crux pitch- Sharing leads, in general, allows each climber to feel like they’re part of the team, sharing in the adventure- Works well in easier climbing terrain where climbers don’t need a rest between climbing pitches- Since the rope will be stacked appropriately for the follower to transition into leading the next pitch, and because the follower will also have most of the gear that they just cleaned off the last pitch, this can be a faster climbing strategyLeading in Blocks: This is a great technique for tackling long and demanding climbs. This is where one climber will lead several pitches in a row, then the other climber will lead several pitches in a row.- Team decides which climber gets to lead which blocks based on experience level with different climbing techniques required for each pitch (i.e. crack, slabs, stemming, aid climbing...etc), as well as speed and overall skill level.- Team also decides how many blocks to break the climb into based on strengths, changes in terrain, styles of climbing, belay ledges which enable an efficient transition, and/or number of pitches.- Allows the lead climber to rest while belaying the follower. From a physical standpoint, this can be ideal on more demanding routes, as it allows each climber to climb one pitch at a time, then rest, vs swapping leads where the follower rolls right into leading the next pitch.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Traditional Climbing: 21. How to Escape the Belay Device—Off Your Harness | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at how to escape a belay rigged directly on your harness. This is an advanced rockcraft skill that should be honed by anyone venturing into multi pitch terrain—but is also useful for cragging. You might use this skill to get the belayer out of the rope system in order to conduct emergency response. Step 1: Using the brake strand, push a bight of rope through the belay carabiner, and tie it off as shown in the video. You can now go “hands free” and use both hands to rig the rest of the rope rescue system.Step 2: Take the back end of the climber’s strand, behind where you tied it off on your belay device, and tie a munter mule on the master point of the anchor you are hanging from as belayer.Step 3: Take out your cordelette (16-20 feet long is usually sufficient), and with the whole cord tied in a big loop (as you would have it to build anchors), wrap a klemheist around the loaded climber’s strand of rope.Step 4: Run the two strands of your cordelette back up to your anchor, and on a separate carabiner, tie another munter mule using both strands of cordelette as if they are one single rope.Step 5: Untie the backup knot on your belay device and gently ease the weight of the climber on to the friction hitch.Step 6: Take your belay device off the rope. You will now notice you have a lot of slack in the rope and all the weight of the climber is resting on a single friction hitch. Remove the mule knot from the rope in the master point and take up all of that slack. Retie the mule knot.Step 7: Now you can untie the cordelette, starting with the munter mule at the master point, and remove it from the rope entirely. The climber’s weight should be resting entirely on a munter mule in their rope, on the master point.Now you’re free from the belay system and able to assess possible rescue scenario.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 4. Snow Travel - Chopping Steps | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we look at how to chop steps for climbing snow.There are times in the mountains when most of the terrain will be on rock, trails, and talus. This is typically late summer or in the autumn, or lower elevation alpine areas following a lean winter. Sometimes you may choose to leave crampons behind, but still carry a lightweight ice axe. When you are faced with a section of firm snow without crampons, it pays to have practiced the art of step cutting. “Step Cutting” or “Chopping Steps”, was the technique used by guides in the Alps, prior to the development of crampons for alpine climbing. The axe is swung up-hill, often using the adze, and creating two steps. You will then take two steps up, and repeat the cutting.Step 1: Swing your ice axe to create a platform in the snow or ice for the upper step.Step 2: Then swing your axe for the lower step.By creating the top step first, you reduce the amount of snow that fills in the step you just cut.Below are considerations for chopping steps:1. The amount of swings and force you use depends on the firmness of the snow or ice. 2. Swing with an arc, using the adze to scoop out the step.3. Remember, you will be moving into an out of balance step and then back into an in balance step when you move twice. Always chop your steps from an in balance stance: this is with your uphill foot forward.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Traditional Climbing: 1. Hand Jamming | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the “hand jam”. Hand jamming is a technique used to climb cracks as opposed to featured faces or slabs.This technique requires the climber to place their hand into the crack and tuck the thumb into the hand to create a narrow (karate chop shape) or wide (cup shape) hand jam, depending on the width of the crack (see above video for demonstration).Two methods for using a hand jam include:Thumbs-up - In this method, your palms are facing inward and your thumbs are up. This version of the hand jam allows you to move greater distances between jams.Thumbs-opposed - In this method, your thumbs are pointed down, palms outward. This may feel more solid since the meat of your lower thumb is the lowest friction point; however, the distance you can move between jams is less than with thumbs-up. This is because the orientation of your shoulder joint in this position creates a slightly more limited range of arm motion.It’s likely that while you’re climbing, the rock may dictate which method you end up using at times, but feeling comfortable with both methods is key for successful crack climbing.A few considerations when applying either method of hand jamming include:1. Look for constrictions in the crack which match the shape of your hand.2. When possible try to hang with straight arms to save your arm muscles, but be sure your shoulder blades are set down and back to protect your shoulder joint! Don’t just hang like a sack of bones—use your skeleton to support you with good posture and alignment.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 29. Light & Fast Gear Considerations | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we sort through our light and fast gear for alpine climbs and mountaineering. The theme throughout our alpine segment has been speed and safety, through being light and fast. Below are examples of gear you may consider (depending on the objective) that are both light and fast as well as safe for most terrain and conditions:- Lightweight alpine hiking boots- Aluminum crampons (if you’ll be using them exclusively on snow)- Ice axe w/ aluminum shaft and steel head- Water resistant, wind-proof shell- Lightweight alpine harness (Black Diamond Couloir, Mammut Zephir Altitude harness, or similar)- Foam polycarbonate helmet- Minimal first aid & repair kit (headlamp, tape, lighter, multi-tool)- Backpack (under 2 lbs.)- Foam pad for sleeping- Lightweight stove (jetboil) + small fuel can (2 oz per person / day)- Water bottle - reused gatorade bottle vs. nalgene- Food - minimal bars, gel, or goo (1 qt ziplock bag OR 2 lbs per person / day)- Heat blanket or siltarp type shelterConsider these options when packing for your alpine & mountaineering adventure to help achieve the goal of going very light, fast and efficient while still having everything required to be safe. We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Alpine & Mountaineering: 6. Snow Travel Considerations | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Snow is an incredible medium on which to travel, and often provides efficient travel conditions. In this video, we look at various aspects of climbing on snow.Perfect spring “corn” snow that is well consolidated and soft enough to take a boot kick or ski edge, or firmer snow that takes crampon points (almost like kicking into styrofoam!), can both be fun snow climbing.Conditions can both make and break your climbing experience. A thin layer of snow covering a talus field can be treacherous. And deep, unconsolidated powder snow, or rotten spring isothermal snow, can lead to waist-deep postholing and exhausting travel in the mountains.Snow changes both on a seasonal level throughout the year, as well as on a diurnal cycle with cold nights and warm days.Autumn - the mountains have the least amount of snow, and many lower elevation glaciers and talus fields are free of snow. Winter - the snowpack starts to build as storms deposit more and more snow. Winter snow tends to be softer and less supportable, so most climbers will don skis or snowshoes. In popular winter ice climbing areas that get a lot of traffic, boot packed trails can allow access through snowy areas without the use of snowshoes or skis.Spring - can lead to some great climbing conditions, when solar radiation and cold overnight temps combine into a melt freeze cycle that creates smooth, buttery “corn” snow. In spring, snow travel may still be better with skis and skins, assuming the objective you wish to climb has good snow coverage on the approach.Summer - allows for “neve” snow climbing conditions, where the snow that exists becomes consolidated, and slowly melts away. Late in the summer, “suncups” can form in the snow surface. These can be less fun to deal with.The spring diurnal cycle often makes for excellent climbing conditions overnight, or very early in the morning, when the snow surface is still frozen. Later in the morning there will be a sweet spot where the snow still holds a boot edge, but it is soft enough to ski, glissade, or boot glissade. Later in the afternoon, the warming may penetrate deep enough into the snowpack to make it “rotten,” so you post hole to your hip.If the snow is firm or icy, crampons are the best—especially if the terrain is steep. Though crampons are more secure, they can be problematic if the snow is soft. If you notice snow balling under the bottoms of the crampons, climbing or descending snow in boots without crampons may be better—assuming you can get enough purchase (i.e. traction) with your boots.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Bouldering: 10. Resting Between Attempts | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Boulder problems are relatively short, but they are intense, with powerful moves. They require a lot of energy per attempt.Resting between attempts when bouldering is important, in order to prevent overuse injury. If you keep firing to the same crimp, and almost hitting the move, your tendons will grow fatigued. A boulder problem might take only a minute to climb, but require 10 minutes of rest between attempts.Savor the rests, have fun, spot your friends, learn from watching others and rest well. This allows you to gradually build endurance, minimize injury, and attain your goals.See our videos on Sequences [hyperlink] and Planning [hyperlink] for additional considerations.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Multi-Pitch Trad: 14. Finding the Route and Descent | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review the art of finding the route—as well as the descent. Once you’ve done your research and selected which route(s) to climb, use the following procedure to help you identify the route and descent.1. Starting from the car, or even while hiking on the approach, look at the route. Identify landmarks to help you find the best approach or follow the route. This will help when you are up close and don’t have the benefit of viewing things from afar.2. While on the approach, occasionally look back to identify features for the descent. 3. If you are still having trouble finding the base of the climb, spend more time at the crag practicing route finding, especially before getting on more complex routes.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Fitness for Climbing: 2. Myofascial Release - Upper Back | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to use a lacrosse ball for myofascial release. Myofascial release is a term used to describe rolling yourself out. Key muscles are targeted.Here we review how to roll out your upper back muscles using a lacrosse ball. This is an important exercise for climbing because it helps relieve stress and soreness from the back, and keep the back muscles limber.Instructions for the Lat muscle (latissimus dorsi):Step 1: Place the lacrosse ball directly beneath your Lat muscle (latissimus dorsi).Step 2: Lean your back against the wall, pinning the ball between the wall and the targeted area of your lat muscle.Step 3: Slowly bend your knees, and begin using your legs to move your body in a slow, circular motion. Make sure to keep the circles small.This exercise can also target the Trapezius muscle:Step 1: Place the lacrosse ball directly against your Trap muscle.Step 2: Lean your back against the wall, pinning the ball between the wall and the targeted areas of your Trap muscle.Step 3: Starting with flat feet, press up onto your toes and move move your body in a slow, circular motion making sure to keep the circles small against your trap.Be sure to keep the ball close to your Trap muscle, and away from the sensitive area of your neck.We hope you found this video helpful. Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Fitness for Climbing: 8. Rock Rings - Lock-Offs | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! It is time to try hanging rings for climbing fitness! Specifically we’ll review the lock-off exercise, with focus on strengthening the upper body. 1. The start of a lock-off is similar to holding your body position at the top of a pull-up. Start by grabbing onto both rings, and perform a pull-up so your chin is above your hands, and your arms remain close to your body.2. Hold this lock-off position for 5 seconds.3. Then lower to a 90-degree bend in your elbow, keeping your core engaged, and hold for another 5 seconds.4. Then release to the ground.Determining quantities of sets is up to each individual climber. Try starting with just one, while executing proper form like in the video.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Bouldering: 5. Brushing Holds | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Whether climbing outdoors or indoors, brushing excessive chalk off the holds is typically a smart idea. The more chalk on a hold, the less friction you have with the stone or the plastic. Below are a few things to consider when brushing your holds:1. Plastic bristles can wear down the natural crystals of textured plastic over time. As such, a boar-hair brush is the “go-to” tool for hardcore boulderers seeking perfect friction. 2. Aggressive brushing damages the rock, and is severely frowned upon. Remember, you’re only brushing the chalk!3. As always, remember the principles of “Leave No Trace”.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Bouldering: 9. Taping to Prevent Injury | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review taping to compensate for climbing injury, or to prevent climbing injuries.First, it’s important to consider forearm anatomy. The tendons that flex our fingers start from the tips of our fingers and extend all the way to the inside of our elbow. They are held down along the way by a number of pulleys, two of which exist at the wrist and in the fingers. The pulleys act as a friction spot, and the purpose of taping is to defuse the friction out over a greater area. This reduces the friction and helps prevent tendon injury.Below are a few schools of thought to consider when taping to prevent injury:1. Finger Taping: - Circumferential wrap: Apply tape to isolated failings in a similar fashion to a wedding band.- Figure eight wrap: Start by applying tape at the lower part of finger, and extend out to the next part, avoiding the knuckle, and then finish back at the lower part of the finger. This forms a figure eight.2. Wrist Taping: - Circumferential wrap using thicker tape3. Elbow- Circumferential wrap below the elbow, or use a braceQuick Tip: Avoid the common mistake of taping too tightly!We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Fitness for Climbing: 7. Rock Ring - Shoulder Shrugs | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! Here we review how to use hanging rings for climbing fitness. The shoulder shrug exercise is designed to counter the overdevelopment of lat muscles, which is common amongst climbers. This exercise also helps correct bad posture, by bringing hunched shoulders back to normal position.Instructions:1. Start by grabbing onto both rings, and lean back so your body is almost in a plank position, keeping both your back and arms completely straight.2. From this position, contract your back to try and make your lat muscles touch.3. Release back to a relaxed position. Tips to ensure proper shoulder shrug technique:- In the video, try to notice correct angles for arms, back, hips, knees, and feet.- Always keep your arms straight. DO NOT engage the biceps. - Always keep your hips and knees straight.- Be sure to exhale while you contract, and inhale while you release.- We recommend performing this exercise in 3 sets of 15 repetitions.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
Fitness for Climbing: 1. Myofascial Release - Pectoral Muscles | Climbing Tech Tips Climbing Tech Tips 2018-02-02 | Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to use a lacrosse ball for myofascial release. Myofascial release is a term used to describe rolling yourself out. Key muscles are targeted.Here we review how to roll out your chest muscles using a lacrosse ball. This is an important exercise for climbing because, when on the wall, one of the areas to resist the back muscles are your chest muscles. This exercise is designed to loosen that resistance, allowing your back muscles to be used more effectively.Instructions:Step 1: Place the lacrosse ball where your chest muscles meet your shoulder muscles.Step 2: Face the wall with square hips, pinning the ball between the wall and the targeted area of your chest muscle. Your face should be turned to the side which you intend to roll out, NOT facing forward. Step 3: Use your legs to move your body in a slow, circular motion making sure to keep the circles small.Once the targeted area feels loose, you can move the ball and target different areas of your pectoral muscle.Things to Avoid:- Placing the ball too low on your pectoral muscle- Moving up and down as opposed to circular- Moving too fast.We hope you found this video helpful.Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!
